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Harbor Freight Predator generators: anybody have one?

four low

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No but I did pick this one at Amazon when researching. WEN GN4500 4500-Watt 212cc Transfer Switch and RV-Ready Portable Generator, CARB Compliant
It was rated well for the money $309. Still in the box and it won't be openned till needed, if ever.


https://generatorbible.com/generators/wen/gn4500/
It might be a good idea to unbox it, make sure all parts you need, including cables, adapters, are included.
Start it up, test BEFORE you need it. Power outages mean stores closed, no running for fuel, missing parts.
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cbrenthus

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Even though I run my generator outside, I bought a 2 pack of CO detectors and sleep with one anyway. The only time I ever saw the CO detector register anything was when I had it in the garage, was running the generator in the driveway, and the wind shifted and blew the exhaust into the garage. Its pretty amazing how quickly it raised the CO levels, so be careful.
 

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No but I did pick this one at Amazon when researching. WEN GN4500 4500-Watt 212cc Transfer Switch and RV-Ready Portable Generator, CARB Compliant
It was rated well for the money $309. Still in the box and it won't be openned till needed, if ever.


https://generatorbible.com/generators/wen/gn4500/
Hey Ben:

Good luck with the generator. A thought: if you ever decide that you want to hook this 110 VAC oneup to an automatic transfer switch I know only one (which of course doesn't mean there aren't more) product that does this, that is UL listed for home use (UL1008):

https://www.apc.com/shop/us/en/products/APC-Universal-Transfer-Switch-10-Circuit-120-240V/P-UTS10BI

It also requires a battery backup device, which APC, among many other manufacturers, are known for.

...plenty of manual transfer switches out there...much that extension cords and no transfer switche(s) may be your route.
 

72Blazer

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One of my winter projects for next summer. I’d like to pick up the 9k watt predator generator to run my fridges and basic electrical in the house if needed. I had some meat spoil this last time with hurricane Hanna. We were in Colorado and I had to have my dad go pull all of my meat out of the deep freezer. By the time he made it out there some of my meat thawed including some fish. My plan is to run a transfer switch and the generator.
 

OldGuyNewJeep

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@Chocolate Thunder I know Laura came and went, but in case you’re still in the market for an affordable generator this one is on sale for Labor Day and has stellar reviews:

https://www.powerequipmentdirect.com/Caterpillar-RP7500-E/p71262.html

The Generac that I ordered from Costco for the same price ($999) never arrived. Dang shipping company “lost” it. I think one of their employees stole it because it shipped during a tropical storm that left much of our state with no power. They made zero attempt to locate it or make it right. Eff you, Estes Express. Costco processed my return on Friday (still waiting to see my credit card balance get updated), but said they had no more of those Generacs and will not be getting any. Ugh.

Anyway, the CAT unit has been around for a while (at least a year) and there are no shortage of reviews on many different sites. I placed my order, yesterday. (I’ve ordered stuff from PED before and they’re great.)

Don’t forget that the Predator does not come with wheels or a battery, so the real price is higher than advertised. Their 90 warranty is crap, too, though they’ll happily take $130 for an extended warranty. If you do that, you just spent $1k... the CAT has a 3yr warranty.

Good luck!
 

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WagzDad

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1. Don’t be tempted to not use a transfer switch. You can kill someone far away with a simple memory lapse.
2. Calculate your loads and critical systems. Opinions vary but demand should be less than 70% max potential. Label your breakers. Shut down any that are not critical.
3. Nothing but inverter or better
4. Propane or NG as primary fuel if possible. Diesel is ok. Gasoline can become problematic over the years.
5. Big security chain and a big dog for good measure.
6. Never loan it. It will never work right again when you get it back.
 

OldGuyNewJeep

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Nothing but inverter or better
:CWL: OK, so you want him to spend $5,000 on a Honda when his budget calls for a $700 HF.

Those of us who lose power once in a blue moon are not about to drop big coin on an inverter.

100% agree with your first point, though. So many idiots out there illegally and unsafely back feeding their panel.
 

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1. Don’t be tempted to not use a transfer switch. You can kill someone far away with a simple memory lapse.
2. Calculate your loads and critical systems. Opinions vary but demand should be less than 70% max potential. Label your breakers. Shut down any that are not critical.
3. Nothing but inverter or better
4. Propane or NG as primary fuel if possible. Diesel is ok. Gasoline can become problematic over the years.
5. Big security chain and a big dog for good measure.
6. Never loan it. It will never work right again when you get it back.
I like your ideas Caroll @WagzDad but wish to add some commentary.
  • If you're the kind of generator user who is content to simply run some basic plug in appliances it's fine to plug them into the generator directly where a transfer switch won't be necessary.
  • Where I suspect Caroll was going with his ideas, and is perfectly correct, is that a number of mission critical home appliances are often, by code, directly connected to the home's electrical system such that the only way of accessing them safely with a generator is through a transfer switch: large or small, manually or automatic. These switches insure the lines that lead into the home and normally supply it with power are not inadvertently energized during a power outage by the generator, risking utility workers potentially working on those lines to restore power being shocked/electrocuted. Such switches also insure that such (hard wired home) appliances are feed with at most one source of current, and not, say, both generator and utility power--which would be problematic. Line personal are trained in identifying and dealing with such situations though, but why expose them to risk.
  • Inverter generators are great. But I'm not sure that permanent home units are in that class. These inverter units convert A/C to D/C and back to A/C with a piece of electrical equipment known as a rectifier, producing "clean" current that many of today's electronic devices require. That current, put up to an oscilloscope, shows consistent sine waves. But these units tend to cost more than similarly powered standard generators. They do though operate more quietly and can adjust speed based on demand to conserve fuel.
  • Caroll is spot on I think about energy sources. Propane carries more BTU's per volume than NG, but there can be issues with delivering tanked propane in the cold. Utility NG delivery tends to be unaffected by non earthquake related power outages or power outages in general as the energy to pump it often comes from running industrial generators that consume it. These gaseous fuels run cleaner than diesel. Gasoline, while it carries lots of BTUs per volume is smelly, and has a shelf live of about 6 months. Left in generators it can gum up critical parts. It's not available from most gas stations during power outages and filling the hot generator at 3AM, in the snow, is not fun or the safest thing.
  • If you don't buy a gaseous fuel generator out of the box, most gasoline generators or inverters can be converted without much to do. US Carburetion makes many compatible kits (or sells teh generator converted for you) and is a market leader at this. I use their products but am in all ways, included financially, unaffiliated with them. Maine Diesel is another outfit that provides these services.
 

WagzDad

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Earthquake...I’ve never given them much thought living on the gulf coast. Snow & ice too I guess...they occasionally happen and cause havoc for a couple days but it always warms back up.
A couple other things to consider. Electric heating, HVAC, cooking or water Heating...forget it. You’ll kill the appliance on the first try. Most modern refrigerators/ freezers, washer and dryers and newer multi mode HVAC cooling systems are also very sensitive to line voltage and signal condition (60 hz). I cycle through the refrigerator, freezer a couple hours at a time on a smaller inverter generator to maintain the temperature, opening them as little as possible.
I also have a sacrificial upright window a/c unit to cool 1 room. It ran OK off of a regular generator for 3 weeks following the 2016 flood while we lived in an upstairs room.

Finally, get good 3 prong extension cords, no longer than 50 feet. 10 or 12 G wire With THICK sheath . They are expensive but make a difference.
 

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Earthquake...I’ve never given them much thought living on the gulf coast. Snow & ice too I guess...they occasionally happen and cause havoc for a couple days but it always warms back up.
A couple other things to consider. Electric heating, HVAC, cooking or water Heating...forget it. You’ll kill the appliance on the first try. Most modern refrigerators/ freezers, washer and dryers and newer multi mode HVAC cooling systems are also very sensitive to line voltage and signal condition (60 hz). I cycle through the refrigerator, freezer a couple hours at a time on a smaller inverter generator to maintain the temperature, opening them as little as possible.
I also have a sacrificial upright window a/c unit to cool 1 room. It ran OK off of a regular generator for 3 weeks following the 2016 flood while we lived in an upstairs room.

Finally, get good 3 prong extension cords, no longer than 50 feet. 10 or 12 G wire With THICK sheath . They are expensive but make a difference.
Caroll, this transfer switch, the only 110V or 220V UL1008 automatic (or manual mode) one I know allows you to program load transfer, FWIW and if it helps you....

https://www.apc.com/shop/us/en/categories/power-distribution/transfer-switches/N-fbub58
 

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Left Field

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Something I just learned - the hard way

Make sure your generator is transfer switch compatible. This primarily affects the smaller generators. We got a Honda Industrial 2800 Watt EB2800 and had a transfer switch professionally installed - plan was to keep the sump pump alive for storms, maybe a few lights. Test ran last week => no-go; the breaker tripped immediately on the generator, even with the transfer switch in the off position.
Turns out that the Honda EB Industrial series of generators have a built in GFI that can trip the breaker, and due to the tied G-N connection in a home service panel and the generator tied G-N connection, a ground path is created that is not compatible with GFI equipped generators.

TLDR:
1) GFI generators are made for use with extension cords to run equipment directly and will not work with a transfer switch
2) A non-GFI generator (such as the Honda EU series) is required for use with a transfer switch

Hope that saves someone else some misery!
LF
 

OldGuyNewJeep

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TLDR:
1) GFI generators are made for use with extension cords to run equipment directly and will not work with a transfer switch
2) A non-GFI generator (such as the Honda EU series) is required for use with a transfer switch
Good advice, which I also highlighted in post #3. Hopefully you have figured out that you can remove the neutral bond on your generator to solve this issue.

Here’s the jumper I had to remove on my CAT, as well as a link to the magnet I keep affixed.

https://www.powerequipmentforum.com...his-the-neutral-bond-jumper.23325/#post-74419

Oh, and you can make or buy one of these to quickly re-bond your neutral so that you can use the generator as a portable. I keep this zip tied to my genset next to the warning magnet:

Southwire Company LLC 44400 Surge Guard Generator Neutral https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07F4R7BDL/

Never plug your genset into your home wiring AND plug in extension cords at the same time; it’s one or the other.


Jeep Wrangler JL Harbor Freight Predator generators: anybody have one? EC996E1A-11C1-4A37-A47A-8020B96878F5
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