Ham Radio Install w/ Pics **Update 3 Years Later**

voodoo11

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So, I purchased the [Banned Site] CB Radio Bar. It's pricey, but really works well for my needs. I then tore up my A-pillar area and wired the AUX1 switch to the radios (A D71 and a Midland MXT400 GMRS) - note that you will have to suss things out your own way for power if you don't have the factory AUX switched installed.. I also fabricated my own hood mounts for the antennas, since nobody sells them (to my knowledge - maybe I should? :) ). Everything works great, although the D71 head unit its just a tad too close to my old eyes. I will likely fab a different mount later that moves it to the other side of the bar.

PS - I pulled the RG58 through just under the front windshield. It's tight, but I think it will get less noise than running it through the firewall holes.

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which antenna are you running?





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voodoo11

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I will update as I come along, so far I just mounted the base of my TM-V71a onto the interior cowl on the passenger side under the glove box. You can hardly see it from the passenger seat, and it shouldn't obstruct a passenger's feet too bad.

I have the coax connector facing up, I'm going to run the coax and power through the grommet just above where the radio is mount.

I'm going to use the Mopar JL A-Pillar light mounts, drill out a hole, and mount my Larsen 2/70cm NMO antenna on it. I'm also going to use the separation and extension kit for the tm-v71a to mount the mic on the drivers side, and I'm still unsure of where I'm going to mount the face.

I'll update as I get more done.

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Curious on power. Did you wire directly to the battery and ground on the body?
 
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Curious on power. Did you wire directly to the battery and ground on the body?
Sorry for the late post, but I wired both positive and negative wires to the battery terminals.
 

California Guy

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here is an interesting alternative using rough county LED bracket ($20) for two. All i did was increase the mounting hole frm 3/8th to 1/2 inch. The other side will be for a 10 meter antenna.

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I contacted Rough Country and they want 34.95 for both brackets. How did you get them for 20.00? Do you have a part number?
 

kburns

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Ok I finished up. The install looks really good. I did scratch the paint next to the tail light when the drill slipped trying to put in the first screw. Oh well. Other than that, it looks really clean and seamless on the interior. I've very happy.
Looks really good. What antenna are you using?
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Thanks. In the pics, it's the Larsen NMO 2/70B (https://www.dxengineering.com/parts/lsn-nmo2-70b)

I'm actually looking now to replace my setup for HF in place of VHF. I have the Yaesu ATAS-120 that I'm looking to pair with my FT-891 but I'm not sure where to mount the ATAS without removing the 2/70. We'll see.
 

DrPerez007

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Did you ever buy and use the Mopar JL A-Pillar light mounts for an antenna?
 

Bobby Boucher

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Hey Steve ... I installed the Mopar light mount and it it quite sturdy.

I have several antennas that I swap around and this mount will easily accommodates most any height antenna.

One Note ... it has a heavy textured paint coating and will require that you run a good ground braid from your antenna mount. I've pointed out the braid in the second photo.

Additionally, the metal is thicker than a standard (Larsen) NMO roof mount will accommodate. So, if you require an NMO mount, Larsen makes an NMO Mid as well as an NMO Thick mount for thicker material. I used the NMO Mid.

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DrPerez007

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Hey Steve ... I installed the Mopar light mount and it it quite sturdy.

I have several antennas that I swap around and this mount will easily accommodates most any height antenna.

One Note ... it has a heavy textured paint coating and will require that you run a good ground braid from your antenna mount. I've pointed out the braid in the second photo.

Additionally, the metal is thicker than a standard (Larsen) NMO roof mount will accommodate. So, if you require an NMO mount, Larsen makes an NMO Mid as well as an NMO Thick mount for thicker material. I used the NMO Mid.
Thanks, Bob, appreciate the pictures and the ground braid explanation. Which Comet antenna is that? I have ordered those brackets and expect arrival tomorrow or Monday. They are the Mopar/Jeep next generation, so less metal (pictured below). My thought was to drill a third hole ahead of where you have your antenna mounted, and place a driving light there, then use the back hole for a NMO 3/8 inch "Thick Surface Mount" as they're called but for surfaces of less than 1/4". Will probably use a Comet or Diamond NGP antenna on driver's side and a PCTEL NGP 800 antenna on passenger side (for work related radio).

Hope this works otherwise it is an expensive experiment. LOL

Steve



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DrPerez007

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BTW, here are my driver and passenger antenna mounts on my ‘16 JKU. Both are Comet RS-840. Used generally with NGP antennas.

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Bobby Boucher

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Steve ... that antenna is a Comet SBB-14 for 6M / 2M / 440MHz. I also use the longer MFJ-1436B from time to time. It's 60" tall and requires a more sturdy mount, so that's why I went with the MOPAR brackets as opposed to a fender mount.
 

DrPerez007

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These are the Mopar Replacement Fog and Driving Light Mounting Brackets (now 82215427AB). You will notice they have less metal than the original that debuted along with the 2018 JL at the 2017 International Auto Show in LA. When I first saw them there, I thought they were a bit big and gaudy. I have since changed my mind.

Finding suitable windshield light mounts is no longer a challenge even on the JL. Although, the problem with some of these mounts is that it puts whatever light that is there more in the driver’s line of vision unlike the JK. Another issue is that for those of us that need a two-way radio antenna mount, they are harder to come by for the JL. And the JLU has virtually no turn-signal indicator for the sides so, as they say, “In for a dime, in for a dollar” and I added that to my list, as well. And that is where the 82215427AB mount came into play.

The mount was apparently designed to hold just a light, but with that much real estate available, I realized it could be utilized to handle multiple tasks. So out came the drill. Two 3/8” holes were added: one on top and forward where my driving light would mount, and one on the side for the wires to run for the low profile amber light I would mount to run my European-style side indicator light. Mopar so generously had already had two holes drilled on the side (for whatever reason) so when I spotted this mount at the auto show I knew it could do more. A Q-tip and some matte-black Rust-Oleum to coat and protect the drilled holes finished off that part of the task.

In my pics you can see my Amazon amber light mounted using the two factory holes, but I needed a wire exit dead center behind that light and so I drilled a 3/8” hole for an inset to allow the light to fit perfect. Using black bolts and sized washers, no problem. Then one wire to ground and the other to the turn signal wire harness. On both sides, I just tapped into the green/white stripe wire in the harness. Flip the turn signal on, and bang, you now have a side turn signal to alert any vehicle in your blind spot or any pedestrian that might move into the danger zone.

Using the back factory hole on top of each mount (the factory holes are somewhere between 9/32” and 3/8”), I attached a PCTEL BMA “thick surface 3/8” hole brass mount” for surfaces up to 1/8” with 17’ of coax (run thru the firewall). On the passenger side I mounted a Laird 800 MHz No Ground Plane antenna (just say, work related); on the driver side I mounted a Diamond Dual-Band (VHF/UHF) NR73BNMO No Ground Plane antenna (Ham Radio). I also have grounding straps coming to attach from the NMO mounts to the body. They will be mounted as soon as they arrive.

The top, front “drilled” 3/8” hole is used for my Lightforce driving/spot light (I only use Lightforce lights). Dropped right in. Then the middle, factory hole, I added a black rubber 9/32” grommet (to protect the wires from rubbing on the metal) and ran my soldered and heat-shrunk wrapped light wires thru it and into the engine compartment to a (future) controller that will be switched in the interior.

That’s it! There are no hyper-flash or other CANBUS issues because I only added a light and the system barely sees it. For those thinking thinking about doing the same, measure those two holes you want to drill very carefully (& measure twice) and make sure you know exactly where your top light mount is going to go before you even pick up the drill.

Steve

There are a few pics (lights are brighter in person)

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Holland

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kogar

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Nice. Where did you pass it through firewall?
 

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One potential issue is that location puts the antenna fairly close to your head, so transmitting 50w might be an RF exposure risk. Lower power wouldn’t be a problem. Gory details (chart 4a gives recommended distances) http://transition.fcc.gov/Bureaus/Engineering_Technology/Documents/bulletins/oet65/oet65b.pdf

Nice. Where did you pass it through firewall?
i went through the firewall using a hole for the clutch pedal (covered by a blanking plate if you have an automatic) https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/forum/threads/comms-mule-ham-gmrs-and-cb-install.57392/
 

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