Greasing Rock Krawler 2.5 X-Factor

suicideTone

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This is my first vehicle I’ve done serious wrenching on and I’ve never messed with suspensions. I bought and had installed this lift 6 months ago and marked my calendar to grease it now. Does anyone have a list of all the places I need to hit? I see the disconnects but want to make this as quick as I can without hunting for each one. I do see on the shocks that the zercs are basically unreachable. I assume I need to hit those frequently too? I did just buy a slide on right angle coupler I’m hoping will squeeze in there. Thanks for any help.
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limeade

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If your RK lift came with all 8 control arms, then there will be a total of 14 zerks. Each lower control arm has a zerk on the top (if installed per RK's instructions) of each joint (8 zerks), the rear upper control arms have a zerk at each joint (4 zerks), and the front upper control arms have a zerk at the frame end joint only (2 zerks).

I have never seen shocks with zerks, so not sure what you're talking about.......

The disconnects with the RK X-factor have a zerk at each end, so 2 per link, 4 total.

If you have the factory steering system, there are no zerks as it is not able to be lubricated.
 
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suicideTone

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If your RK lift came with all 8 control arms, then there will be a total of 14 zerks. Each lower control arm has a zerk on the top (if installed per RK's instructions) of each joint (8 zerks), the rear upper control arms have a zerk at each joint (4 zerks), and the front upper control arms have a zerk at the frame end joint only (2 zerks).

I have never seen shocks with zerks, so not sure what you're talking about.......

The disconnects with the RK X-factor have a zerk at each end, so 2 per link, 4 total.

If you have the factory steering system, there are no zerks as it is not able to be lubricated.
Thanks. I crawled around and found em all earlier including the track bar one. I appreciate the checklist on what all to hit. Here’s a pic of the top of the Shock.
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limeade

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Those are Schrader valves for when they are serviced or rebuilt. Those are not lubrication zerks.
 

ChattVol

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Those are Schrader valves for when they are serviced or rebuilt. Those are not lubrication zerks.
This...you dont grease the shocks. Make sure to use 000 grade grease. The front LCA's can be annoying to greass due to access.
 
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suicideTone

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Thank you. I appreciate the help and guidance. I did buy some 000 grease when I got the lift so I’m good to go.
 

Tdkrum5

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How do you like the lift now that its been on for a while? What are your lift heights after its all settled?
 
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suicideTone

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How do you like the lift now that its been on for a while? What are your lift heights after its all settled?
I like the ride a lot. My driveway is not level but the front is measuring 41” and just under that in the back. I’m not sure what it was before plus I added bumpers, winch and tire carrier right after. I do have a clicking sound I just noticed recently. Usually while turning at low speeds. I just noticed it when I pulled the doors off. I scheduled an appointment with the dealer... hoping I don’t get flak saying it’s not covered due to the lift. The general consensus on here is ball joints.

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ChattVol

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I like the ride a lot. My driveway is not level but the front is measuring 41” and just under that in the back. I’m not sure what it was before plus I added bumpers, winch and tire carrier right after. I do have a clicking sound I just noticed recently. Usually while turning at low speeds. I just noticed it when I pulled the doors off. I scheduled an appointment with the dealer... hoping I don’t get flak saying it’s not covered due to the lift. The general consensus on here is ball joints.

image.jpg
Welcome to the popular clicking ball joint club...I learned to ignore it eventually.
 

jessedacri

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I like the ride a lot. My driveway is not level but the front is measuring 41” and just under that in the back. I’m not sure what it was before plus I added bumpers, winch and tire carrier right after. I do have a clicking sound I just noticed recently. Usually while turning at low speeds. I just noticed it when I pulled the doors off. I scheduled an appointment with the dealer... hoping I don’t get flak saying it’s not covered due to the lift. The general consensus on here is ball joints.

image.jpg
Welcome to the popular clicking ball joint club...I learned to ignore it eventually.
Yeah, the clicking shouldn't be due to any lift components. Grab a 22mm wrench, pull the cotter pins on the ball joints and tighten the castle nuts one more slot over and reinsert the pin. Should go away (and you should hear the clicking as you tighten the nut) - I only had to do my passenger lower before the clicking stopped.

I had an appointment too and ended up canceling it after a quick trip under the Jeep with a single wrench and pair of pliers. Didn't want the dealer visit to spiral out of control.
 

ChattVol

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Yeah, the clicking shouldn't be due to any lift components. Grab a 22mm wrench, pull the cotter pins on the ball joints and tighten the castle nuts one more slot over and reinsert the pin. Should go away (and you should hear the clicking as you tighten the nut) - I only had to do my passenger lower before the clicking stopped.

I had an appointment too and ended up canceling it after a quick trip under the Jeep with a single wrench and pair of pliers. Didn't want the dealer visit to spiral out of control.
Did that a year ago...helped for about 2 months and clicking resumed. I was told by a top notch guy who works on JL's every week that its the plastic in the ball joints coupled with aluminum knuckles.
 

jessedacri

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Did that a year ago...helped for about 2 months and clicking resumed. I was told by a top notch guy who works on JL's every week that its the plastic in the ball joints coupled with aluminum knuckles.

So at this point you just deal with it + upgrade to the HD ones at some point? Its not a sign that they've begun degrading yeah?
 

ChattVol

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So at this point you just deal with it + upgrade to the HD ones at some point? Its not a sign that they've begun degrading yeah?
Yeah...I checked for lateral movement of the wheel jacked up and there hasnt been any. Not gonna spend $500+labor to replace ball joints that click a few times turning while going slow on pavement. I learned to ignore it.
 
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suicideTone

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Dealership told me shocks are blown. My installer agreed but said that definitely isn’t what causes the clicking noise. RockKrawler said it’s normal for rebuildable shocks and are fine just dirty... I’ll torque the ball joints myself.
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Roky

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Dealership told me shocks are blown. My installer agreed but said that definitely isn’t what causes the clicking noise. RockKrawler said shocks are fine just dirty... I’ll torque the ball joints myself.
1DB2B4DA-6853-4CB2-87AA-91CD14CA8834.jpeg
Shocks aren’t blown, that’s how they are, always wet.
 
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