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GrayWolf.Overland

GrayWolf.Overland

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Pictures from recent trip - Nahatlatch FSR and Grizzly Falls

Jeep Wrangler JL GrayWolf 2.0 🐺 | 2024 4xe Rubicon - Build Thread IMG_0738


Jeep Wrangler JL GrayWolf 2.0 🐺 | 2024 4xe Rubicon - Build Thread DJI_0361


Jeep Wrangler JL GrayWolf 2.0 🐺 | 2024 4xe Rubicon - Build Thread IMG_0556


Jeep Wrangler JL GrayWolf 2.0 🐺 | 2024 4xe Rubicon - Build Thread IMG_0747


Jeep Wrangler JL GrayWolf 2.0 🐺 | 2024 4xe Rubicon - Build Thread DJI_0352


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Finally did use it on a trip. It was only day camping, so I felt confident to leave the jackery at home.
I am emboldened by the ease of use and seeing only draw 5% battery for a whole day of use with fridge and some light charging and kitchen equipment.

I intend to leave out the jackery in an upcoming 3 day trip. Let's see how that goes.
if I am able to use this on a 2 night trip - that's a pass grade for me and I am probably putting my 750wh electric inverter for sale. If it can do that AND be able to power a small space heater for 2 nights - that's going to be bar raising. Fingers Crossed.

It does have a generator mode and blended mode where it can turn the engine on and off in the most efficient way to keep up the power needs when battery runs out. I wonder if carrying 4 gallons of fuel/gas should be the equivalent of carrying additional diesel for diesel heaters.

Subash,

Remind me are you camping in the Jeep?

The HV battery far exceeds my 300 AH of lifepos in the trailer, depending on how cold it is I think you can make it work.

Couple recommendations, make sure the space heater has a thermostat, and make sure you have plenty of ventilation to fight condensation.

Ventilation is the big impact on duty cycle in the trailer. In the Jeep, I would pre-condition the space with the on board HVAC, at that point, you will only need to provide part of the heating for the vented make up air via the space heater.

May want to consider insulating over heating.
 
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GrayWolf.Overland

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Subash,

Remind me are you camping in the Jeep?

The HV battery far exceeds my 300 AH of lifepos in the trailer, depending on how cold it is I think you can make it work.

Couple recommendations, make sure the space heater has a thermostat, and make sure you have plenty of ventilation to fight condensation.

Ventilation is the big impact on duty cycle in the trailer. In the Jeep, I would pre-condition the space with the on board HVAC, at that point, you will only need to provide part of the heating for the vented make up air via the space heater.

May want to consider insulating over heating.
Yep when I am on solo overlanding trips, I sleep inside the jeep. Well I used to, the 4xe is new and I am yet to install the @wheelsfeels cargo platform that will allow me to sleep in the jeep again. I am hoping they have shipped it out and should get here this week.

I used to do this in previous jeep, I crack open the rear window a sliver and I usually have a mesh on top of the rear windows to keep bugs out. I also have a clip on USB fan for internal airflow, and sleep on an air mattress (similar material/mechanism to deepsleep). I only did this in summer while I used a heated (USB) sleeping bag during winter time along with a heated blanket on top of the mattress. The winter setup only lasts 5 hours with my 750wh jackery.

I got one of these heaters as part of amazon promotion - it does have auto shut off (only-fan on) when it reaches the set temperature, and also has a 900w mode for sustaining the temp when the full 1500W is not needed.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BZ74NQVD

Assuming I am using that space heater on thermostat mode which on a cold night might average at 700-900w on overage for about 8 hours. Lets run some quick math.
  • Out of the 17kwh capacity of the 4xe, only around 14.7kw is the usable electric range (100% to <1%) while rest is set aside for the hybrid operation.
  • We can only get to camp with 95% charge when on e-save (if you own a 4xe you know why). So that leaves you with about 15kwh of capacity to use for overlanding.
At 15kwh and a peak output of 3600W and 30Amps - this is like carrying 5 of those largest Jackery 3000s with you.

mapping out how the expected usage will be, with just the space heater and fridge taken into calculations.

Heater Avg Watts usedFridge Avg Watts usedTotal WattsEstimated Continuous Run
Winter Camping9005095015.7 hours
Spring Camping6504069023 hours

If I plan to use some capacity for USB charging of camera gear etc. on very conservative estimates, I could comfortably do 1-2 day trips of winter camping. And about 3-4 days of spring/summer camping provided you are able to charge in between campsites OR use the generator mode to extend the time. Assuming that conservatively the 4xe 2.0 motor takes 0.5 gallons an hour to idle, the blended generator mode can still provide you extended usage time if you budget a 4 gallon fuel tank additionaly to carry. The nice thing is that you are carrying the same fuel as your vehicle is and not a diesel fuel and a bulky diesel heater.

Very underrated feature, and I hope its implemented reliably so that I can keep taking advantage of it.
 
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GrayWolf.Overland

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Installed @Diode Dynamics SS3 Fog light kit with amber backlight. I love it, the backlight looks really neat 🩷

Jeep Wrangler JL GrayWolf 2.0 🐺 | 2024 4xe Rubicon - Build Thread dscf1912-jpe


Jeep Wrangler JL GrayWolf 2.0 🐺 | 2024 4xe Rubicon - Build Thread dscf1907-jpe


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Made a short on the install.

 

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I've been debating on my next set of tires. Currently have 315x70x17 KO2's with 2" lift. I see you're running the 37" Raptor KO2's in load range C so they are fairly close in weight to my tires.

Would you say re-gearing is in your future or has the torque of the 4XE made up for some of that.

The Raptor 37"s seem to be the best middle ground between 35"s and true 37"s.
 
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I've been debating on my next set of tires. Currently have 315x70x17 KO2's with 2" lift. I see you're running the 37" Raptor KO2's in load range C so they are fairly close in weight to my tires.

Would you say re-gearing is in your future or has the torque of the 4XE made up for some of that.

The Raptor 37"s seem to be the best middle ground between 35"s and true 37"s.
I actually think the 35s I had felt more sluggish off the line (falken rt 35x11.5)

These are super light, flex very nice even at 20psi, and has more clearance than 35s. These tires are Goldilocks 36s.. You will feel as if nothing changed from 35s Ko2s.. I bet it will drive and feel like you put on a new set of same tires. I am not regearing abs no need to..still get 42kms on full electric, more than 18.5 on highways and endless torque to climb obstacles in low rpms.

Set the tire size and forget that you went to 37s. If you are on mopar lift, throw in 1 inch coil spacers (or 0.75 daystar) on all 4 corners to give some more room for flexing
 

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I actually think the 35s I had felt more sluggish off the line (falken rt 35x11.5)

These are super light, flex very nice even at 20psi, and has more clearance than 35s. These tires are Goldilocks 36s.. You will feel as if nothing changed from 35s Ko2s.. I bet it will drive and feel like you put on a new set of same tires. I am not regearing abs no need to..still get 42kms on full electric, more than 18.5 on highways and endless torque to climb obstacles in low rpms.

Set the tire size and forget that you went to 37s. If you are on mopar lift, throw in 1 inch coil spacers (or 0.75 daystar) on all 4 corners to give some more room for flexing
Thanks! that's what I was hoping to hear. I'm actually on AEV 2" spacer lift plus 3" extended Bilstein 5100's. The bump stops that come with the AEV kit state they are to accommodate 37"s. Do I really need to go higher than the 2"s?
 
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Thanks! that's what I was hoping to hear. I'm actually on AEV 2" spacer lift plus 3" extended Bilstein 5100's. The bump stops that come with the AEV kit state they are to accommodate 37"s. Do I really need to go higher than the 2"s?
If you already have aev 2 spacer then you already taller than mopar lift so you can run 37s no problem
 

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One more question, in order to fit in spare tire location are you also running the Mopar relocation kit to move the spare up? Currently I only have the reinforcement but not the relocation.
 
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One more question, in order to fit in spare tire location are you also running the Mopar relocation kit to move the spare up? Currently I only have the reinforcement but not the relocation.
If you are running the c rated ko2 37s, you do not need any relocation bracket. It fits Rubicon as is. Now this might be true for plastic rear bumper but not the mopar steel rear bumper that sits slightly higher.
I moved the 3rd break light up using those 4 screws (pull up and use 2 screws)..didn't have to do anything else.

Since then I have moved to an aftermarket bumper from @Rival 4x4 and still I don't need any relocation bracket.

I have the factory reinforcement bracket that increases your carrying weight to 95lb. I'm right at that limit (92lb)
 

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If you are running the c rated ko2 37s, you do not need any relocation bracket. It fits Rubicon as is. Now this might be true for plastic rear bumper but not the mopar steel rear bumper that sits slightly higher.
I moved the 3rd break light up using those 4 screws (pull up and use 2 screws)..didn't have to do anything else.

Since then I have moved to an aftermarket bumper from @Rival 4x4 and still I don't need any relocation bracket.

I have the factory reinforcement bracket that increases your carrying weight to 95lb. I'm right at that limit (92lb)
Got it. Yeah I have the factory plastic bumper, there’s some spare room left between the 35 and the bumper so I’ll just move the brake light up like you suggested. Thanks!
 
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June Updates:

I have been working on some interior upgrades and figuring out how I can sleep inside the jeep instead of leaving on the RTT all the time. I have installed the @wheelsfeels 4xe storage platform which has levelled out the floor for air air mattress. I am 5'6" and I find that the space is tight - I might ave to sleep at an angle to fit in.

Since I lost 7" ish to the platform, the previous rear cargo rack won't work for me as I can't fit the fridge between the gap. I ended up selling the rugged ridge solid steel cargo rack (the thing was heavy and beefy), and ended up getting an adjustable height cargo rack made of magnesium aluminum alloy. It is soooo light, and I wonder how its rated for 150lb carrying capacity. Interestingly it doubles as a detachable metal table for use in campsite.

Pictures, otherwise it didn't happen.

Jeep Wrangler JL GrayWolf 2.0 🐺 | 2024 4xe Rubicon - Build Thread 1719507001523-as


Jeep Wrangler JL GrayWolf 2.0 🐺 | 2024 4xe Rubicon - Build Thread 1719507025742-bd


Jeep Wrangler JL GrayWolf 2.0 🐺 | 2024 4xe Rubicon - Build Thread 1719507043177-4


I am super OCD about fit and finish and quality of work on my upgrades so if you are wondering why there is a bunch of wires on the bottom right corner towards the tailgate hinges - that's pre-wiring for the upcoming install of @WOLFBOX CAR LIFE G930 Rear view mirror dash camera with WDR rear camera. I am waiting for their #179 OEM mount arm to get delivered, before I can begin that installation. When I put the shelf in the middle position to fit the fridge for overlanding, I am sure I would lose most of the rear view - hence I am proactively addressing that by installing wolfbox mirror.

July Upgrades (pending install)
  • @WOLFBOX CAR LIFE G930 10" rear view mirror dashcam
  • @Auxbeam 8-gang switch, mounted to BulletPointMounting freedom panel ball mount and plate for auxbeam switch.
  • Re-wiring lights to the 8-gang switch and dedicating the factory AUX switches exclusively for interior power needs and DRL (dash cam, ham radio, USB charging plate, all DRL & accent amber lights connected to one switch)
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