Sponsored

Goose Gear plate system install (full rear seat delete)

OP
OP
GrumpyBadger

GrumpyBadger

Well-Known Member
First Name
Steve
Joined
Apr 2, 2020
Threads
5
Messages
145
Reaction score
185
Location
Wisconsin
Vehicle(s)
2020 Ocean Blue Wrangler Unlimited Willys
I did the whole 3 piece stealth system
Huh... they must've changed packaging, then. Mine was convenient and single-person manageable.

Success! Took about 2 hours to install everything. Everything fit perfectly.

Even had two pre-aligned holes drilled for mounting to the floor

T8ex-MHmit11G8eep5Poa6Pg=w1117-h1983-no?authuser=0.jpg
Wow... maybe my email to them with suggestions actually had some effect! (I suggested that they either add those, or warn people with instructions that they need to drill). :like:
Sponsored

 

Levin_tom

Well-Known Member
First Name
Tomas
Joined
Nov 8, 2020
Threads
40
Messages
359
Reaction score
376
Location
Florida
Vehicle(s)
Jeep Wrangler JLUR
Hey y'all...

Some have built floor plate systems, or are thinking about alternatives, and others consider the Goose Gear plate system. Well... I received my full Goose Gear floor plate system for 100% rear seat delete, installed it today, and have some thoughts good and bad that some may find useful (I hope).

Another gent on the forum posted a similar thread with more pics here:

https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/fo...times-roll-in-my-first-jeep.25409/post-602985


The GOOD:
  • Very nice, complete system with nice finish (as expected at the price point)
    • Everything arrived in good shape - well packaged
    • All the hardware was there!!!
  • Rock solid once all bolted down (I can rock the Jeep pretty well lifting on the thing)
  • No rattles that I can tell so far - everything seems tight and well-joined by design
  • Relatively simple install (would be simpler if Goose would supply actual detailed instructions - but you can figure it out with a few trial-and-error episodes)
    • Worst part was removing the seats, which is not an issue with the system itself, of course; as others have noted, removing the 60% middle seat belt bolt was a PITA and I had to make a hardware store run to get a longer persuader to get the thing to move
The not-so-good nit-picks (and they are pretty much piddly nits, except maybe the access panel noted below - that one Goose should rethink); I include them here for others to watch out for them if they go to install these:
  • some of the setup is a little more putzy than necessary; would be better if Goose would have a) provided decent instructions; and b) installed some of the slider nuts in the slotted rails (I had to remove some of the bolted on rails, install the nuts, then re-line up the original bolted down sliders and fasten those back down - kinda irritating)
  • the piece over the jack cubby is a little ill-fit for the rubber molding there; again, without instructions I am not quite sure I have it positioned correctly or if some other modification was supposed to be done there
  • There are no pre-drilled holes for the brackets that tie down the 60 and 40 center supports to the seat bolt locations; there were holes on the 60 piece that seemed like they were supposed to be the bracket holes, but they were quite misaligned if they were
    • Here again, without instructions I ASSUMED the four, beefy, slotted 90-deg brackets were for this purpose, but... maybe I "over-thunk" that... perhaps????
  • a few of the bolts that are installed are not counter-sunk, nor are the cubby panel locks; it would be nicer if everything was flush, but... well... it is what it is
    • I will likely put a bit of carpet over it anyway, so it might be a bit lumpy but not quite as catching for anything on the floor
  • the access panel for the rear storage cubby is awfully small - it is not as wide as the cubby, so anything you wish to put into the cubby needs to be squashed through the access panel (my spiffy Blue Ridge Overland tool bag and recovery strap bag that fit nicely in the cubby barely squeeze through; I doubt I can put any more tools in that bag and still get it past that access way
Here are some tidbits of advice for anyone coming along afterward with these plates:
  • you will need
    • 4 mm and 5 mm allen wrenches (or equivalent); everything on the Goose plates is one of these
    • 18 mm socket for seat removal; note you probably need an impact wrench or a ratchet with a hefty length or a long-ish breaker bar for that one crazy tight seat belt bolt;
      • I ended up grabbing an impact socket when getting the larger ratchet; the bolt was so stuck it seemed like it was stripping the ridges in my crappy normal socket (and at the same time damaging the bolt head); that beefier impact socket grabbed hold and I had no more issue
    • 13 mm and 15mm sockets for a couple connections between the 60/40 sections of the seats if you wish to remove them separate from each other
    • a flat screw driver or trim tool to pop the covers on the factory floor anchor loops
    • anti-seize paste - on a video of a rear plate install, they noted putting the paste on the main plate bolts into the factory threads in the floor
      • not something I use often - Auto Zone had a tiny foil packet of the stuff for ~$1.60 which was perfect for this tiny job
    • a ~1/4-inch drill bit and drill (if you wish to anchor the 60/40 plates to the seat bolt points in the floor)
  • do not bolt down the main plate before getting the 60 and 40 plates ready and laid in
    • there are two permanent seat bolts that remain sticking up from the floor that the 60 and 40 plates must be set over, so you have to have play in the main plate to slide the 60 and 40 UNDER the main plate, yet over those bolts (that was one of my trial and error episodes noted above)
    • Thinking about it afterward, I should have noticed it... but... I was excited
  • the 60 and 40 plate center supports should be installed to the REAR of the central aluminum channel - that way they will be properly positioned to allow installation of the anchor brackets on the seat bolt locations
    • I figured it out from putzing and a peek at that @Overland_Texas post
  • I removed my floor mats - I am hoping that was the correct call (well, if it isn't, then I am in good company with Overland_Texas)
Install Notes and Pics:

1. Remove the back floor carpet panel
2. Remove the 6 tie down loops; removal of these allows removal of the side carpet pieces (Goose provides new bolts for the six anchor points)
3. Remove the cover for the jack
4. Remove the seats and the carpet beneath the rear of the seats (save the seat bolts - they will be re-used)

20200530_102256.jpg


Underside of main plate:

20200530_102537.jpg


Top side:

20200530_102646.jpg


5. I set the main plate in and loosely installed the six Goose-supplied bolts with anti-seize; DO NOT tighten them down until all three plates are positioned


Underside of 60 plate (note that the center vertical support needs to be mounted to the rear of the center channel - which in this pic means to the right of that center channel; you will need to remove one of the end channels perpendicular to the center channel in order to insert the channel nuts for the vertical support):

20200530_104609.jpg


Top side of 60 plate (note the hole in the bottom left - that is the hole for the permanent seat bolt that you must slide the plate over, but the "tab" section of unfinished wood must slide under the matching section of the main plate - thus, do not anchor the main plate until you have both 60 and 40 plates ready to go in)

20200530_104647.jpg


Vertical supports for the 60 plate (note the three holes in the bottom of the center support that extends over the hump - those holes did not align with my seat bolt holes, and I had to drill additional holes to use the provided anchor brackets)

20200530_104812.jpg


6. Install the vertical plates using the supplied channel nuts and bolts
- best to install the vertical panels loosely at first, then set the plate into place to get an idea of how best to align the panels relative to the contours of the vehicle trim, etc.

Here's what I was talking about with getting the center support channel nuts in place; I had to unbolt one of the end channels to slide the nuts into the center channel (there was no place in the channel to insert the nuts other than the ends)

20200530_110239.jpg


Here're the holes that I thought were provided for the seat bolt brackets... obviously not gonna align; had to drill my own (not a big deal for most normal human beings - just be aware of it; it was a big deal to me because I found out my drill battery wouldn't take a charge and I had to drive 35 miles to my sister's place to borrow a drill)

20200530_112636.jpg


7. Set the 60 plate in and align it with the main plate using the permanent seat bolt as a prime reference point

8. Do the same vertical support setup with the 40 plate

9. After aligning the 40 plate vertical supports to fit everything, set it in place and align with the main plate and 60 plate (same permanent seat bolt deal)

10. There is a small plate with four threaded screw holes that provides a tie point between the 40 and 60 plates near the front end of the seam; install that plate once everything seems to be aligned properly

Under side of 40 plate (crap - I didn't remove the wrapped vertical supports - sorry; under that package is the same kind of center channel as the 60 plate):

20200530_114025.jpg


Top side of 40 plate - ummm... I guess I got antsy and forgot to grab a shot

Here're the vertical supports for the 40 plate (note that there are NO holes for the seat bolt anchor brackets; again, I had to drill my own):

20200530_114057.jpg


A shot of the 60 plate over-hump:

20200530_122628.jpg


60 plate floor bolt brackets on center vertical support:

20200530_231239.jpg


Main plate to 60/40 plates seam:

20200530_231809.jpg


Brother-in-law getting BEvERages after completion... umm... and the whole system installed (note that the gap between the 40 and 60 plates seems to have been by design / intent because the connector plate spreads them like that):

20200530_145753.jpg




Hope that is useful to someone... let me know if there's anything I missed or could clarify!!

Cheers!!! :beer::beer::beer::flag:

View attachment 327082
Thanks for the write up! Very informative and looks great. Did you use any sound deadening material or have you seen anyone use it. I know Toyota’s use them to lower the outside noise once the carpet is removed, not sure if Jeep’s do.
 
OP
OP
GrumpyBadger

GrumpyBadger

Well-Known Member
First Name
Steve
Joined
Apr 2, 2020
Threads
5
Messages
145
Reaction score
185
Location
Wisconsin
Vehicle(s)
2020 Ocean Blue Wrangler Unlimited Willys
Thanks for the write up! Very informative and looks great. Did you use any sound deadening material or have you seen anyone use it. I know Toyota’s use them to lower the outside noise once the carpet is removed, not sure if Jeep’s do.
Too lazy for deliberate sound deadening. I just laid cheap carpet over the plates. Jeep is noisy anyway, though the carpet does cut down on the 'echo' so i guess it helps a bit. I suspect one could do better than i did.
 

UtahRubi

Well-Known Member
First Name
Ernie
Joined
Oct 21, 2018
Threads
8
Messages
117
Reaction score
151
Location
Kamas, Utah
Vehicle(s)
2018 JLU Rubicon
I have a Goose Gear plate system in my JLUR with the 60% delete. I just took delivery of one of their Camp Kitchen 2.3 set ups. The plate system is rock solid and quiet. The Camp Kitchen however, creaks badly. I have not installed the fridge or stove on it yet and plan on doing that today hoping it will make the creaking stop. It seems to creak from lateral flex on every day road vibration. I have only driven it unweighted and empty so hopefully this will change. Anyone else have this issue? If so, how did you remedy it? Thanks!
 

Overland Productions

Well-Known Member
First Name
Justin
Joined
Jan 30, 2019
Threads
16
Messages
383
Reaction score
321
Location
Dallas, TX
Website
www.offroadsupplyco.com
Vehicle(s)
21 JLURD
Vehicle Showcase
1
I have a Goose Gear plate system in my JLUR with the 60% delete. I just took delivery of one of their Camp Kitchen 2.3 set ups. The plate system is rock solid and quiet. The Camp Kitchen however, creaks badly. I have not installed the fridge or stove on it yet and plan on doing that today hoping it will make the creaking stop. It seems to creak from lateral flex on every day road vibration. I have only driven it unweighted and empty so hopefully this will change. Anyone else have this issue? If so, how did you remedy it? Thanks!
My camp kitchen is still in production. Should be here in a couple of weeks. I'll make a new post and report on my experience.
 

Sponsored

UtahRubi

Well-Known Member
First Name
Ernie
Joined
Oct 21, 2018
Threads
8
Messages
117
Reaction score
151
Location
Kamas, Utah
Vehicle(s)
2018 JLU Rubicon
I installed my Dometic CFX3 45 and Cook Partner 22" stove this afternoon. The Camp Kitchen still creaks annoyingly. I dropped them an email to see what I can do to remedy this. It's so loud that there is no way I'm going to keep it if we can't get the creaking to stop.
 

Mr.BoJangles_91

Well-Known Member
First Name
Eric
Joined
Mar 18, 2020
Threads
13
Messages
137
Reaction score
181
Location
Kirkland, Washington
Vehicle(s)
2019 Wrangler Rubicon
Build Thread
Link
Vehicle Showcase
1
I installed my Dometic CFX3 45 and Cook Partner 22" stove this afternoon. The Camp Kitchen still creaks annoyingly. I dropped them an email to see what I can do to remedy this. It's so loud that there is no way I'm going to keep it if we can't get the creaking to stop.

Wow, that's a nightmare for me..... I can't stand when things are creaking around back there. I hope ya find a solution
 

UtahRubi

Well-Known Member
First Name
Ernie
Joined
Oct 21, 2018
Threads
8
Messages
117
Reaction score
151
Location
Kamas, Utah
Vehicle(s)
2018 JLU Rubicon
Wow, that's a nightmare for me..... I can't stand when things are creaking around back there. I hope ya find a solution
I’ll wait to hear back from Goose Gear but there’s always a fix. Just got to work it out. It’s the only creak in the Jeep... except the hard top 😆
 

MichaelAnthony

Well-Known Member
First Name
Michael
Joined
May 21, 2020
Threads
9
Messages
815
Reaction score
1,099
Location
Aliquippa, PA
Vehicle(s)
2019 Wrangler Rubicon JLUR, 97 Centurion Dually 7.3, 97 Classy Chassis Dually 7.3, 2016 Ultra Classic CVO
Vehicle Showcase
1
I need to find someone that will ship that to me....
 

me109stock

Well-Known Member
First Name
Martin
Joined
Sep 10, 2019
Threads
1
Messages
197
Reaction score
243
Location
Linden, CA
Vehicle(s)
2018 JLU Rubicon 6-Speed Manual; 2008 Ford F450; 2003 Porsche Boxster S
Vehicle Showcase
1
@GrumpyBadger - Great post and great pictures! Looking to build my own and this gives me some great ideas for how to piece it together.
 

Sponsored

Red_shift

Member
Joined
Nov 10, 2021
Threads
4
Messages
16
Reaction score
18
Location
Western NC
Vehicle(s)
2022 JLU Willys
@GrumpyBadger - Thanks for the photos and explanation! If you go with the 100% delete like you did is it possible to replace just the 40% seat pretty easily if you need the seat for a passenger?
 
OP
OP
GrumpyBadger

GrumpyBadger

Well-Known Member
First Name
Steve
Joined
Apr 2, 2020
Threads
5
Messages
145
Reaction score
185
Location
Wisconsin
Vehicle(s)
2020 Ocean Blue Wrangler Unlimited Willys
@GrumpyBadger - Thanks for the photos and explanation! If you go with the 100% delete like you did is it possible to replace just the 40% seat pretty easily if you need the seat for a passenger?
I believe you would need a floor bolting bracket to replace the factory connection between the 40% and 60% seat - the 40% seat does not bolt direct on its own on the center side of the seat. Other than that I wouldn't see why it would be more than a few minutes unscrewing and unbolting the pieces of Goose on that side. Not something you'd want to do every day, but occasionally might not be so bad.

My preferred solution to that issue is to have someone else drive because I have no seats... and then I can have a couple beers and not worry. 🤣 🍻
 

Red_shift

Member
Joined
Nov 10, 2021
Threads
4
Messages
16
Reaction score
18
Location
Western NC
Vehicle(s)
2022 JLU Willys
I believe you would need a floor bolting bracket to replace the factory connection between the 40% and 60% seat - the 40% seat does not bolt direct on its own on the center side of the seat. Other than that I wouldn't see why it would be more than a few minutes unscrewing and unbolting the pieces of Goose on that side. Not something you'd want to do every day, but occasionally might not be so bad.

My preferred solution to that issue is to have someone else drive because I have no seats... and then I can have a couple beers and not worry. 🤣 🍻
Sounds like the right solution! Thanks 👍
 

Marman

Well-Known Member
First Name
Larry
Joined
Feb 23, 2019
Threads
1
Messages
77
Reaction score
162
Location
Pleasant Hill, MO
Vehicle(s)
2021 JLU Rubicon
@GrumpyBadger - Thanks for the photos and explanation! If you go with the 100% delete like you did is it possible to replace just the 40% seat pretty easily if you need the seat for a passenger?
I built my own setup and use the 60% seat delete from Goose Gear to run my 40% seat when needed.

Goose Gear
 

SlickRickMotoADV

Well-Known Member
First Name
Rick
Joined
Mar 9, 2021
Threads
25
Messages
573
Reaction score
419
Location
El Sobrante, CA
Vehicle(s)
2019 Wrangler Unlimited Sahara, 2017 Miata Club RF
This is the only thread I could find mentioning storing batteries underneath this plate system.

I'm going with the 60% removal system.

Do you guys think I can fit this in under there where the rear passenger/middle seat used to be? Laying down of course.

EcoFlow Delta

The dimensions are 15.7 x 8.3 x 10.6 in (40 x 21 x 27 cm)

I have a need for whatever battery I buy sooner than the 8+ weeks out my GG order is.

There's various other brands out there, and I see a few with dimensions like 14.6 x 6.5 x 14.4 inch.
Sponsored

 
Last edited:
 



Top