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Goose Gear plate system install (full rear seat delete)

GrumpyBadger

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Hey y'all...

Some have built floor plate systems, or are thinking about alternatives, and others consider the Goose Gear plate system. Well... I received my full Goose Gear floor plate system for 100% rear seat delete, installed it today, and have some thoughts good and bad that some may find useful (I hope).

Another gent on the forum posted a similar thread with more pics here:

https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/fo...times-roll-in-my-first-jeep.25409/post-602985


The GOOD:
  • Very nice, complete system with nice finish (as expected at the price point)
    • Everything arrived in good shape - well packaged
    • All the hardware was there!!!
  • Rock solid once all bolted down (I can rock the Jeep pretty well lifting on the thing)
  • No rattles that I can tell so far - everything seems tight and well-joined by design
  • Relatively simple install (would be simpler if Goose would supply actual detailed instructions - but you can figure it out with a few trial-and-error episodes)
    • Worst part was removing the seats, which is not an issue with the system itself, of course; as others have noted, removing the 60% middle seat belt bolt was a PITA and I had to make a hardware store run to get a longer persuader to get the thing to move
The not-so-good nit-picks (and they are pretty much piddly nits, except maybe the access panel noted below - that one Goose should rethink); I include them here for others to watch out for them if they go to install these:
  • some of the setup is a little more putzy than necessary; would be better if Goose would have a) provided decent instructions; and b) installed some of the slider nuts in the slotted rails (I had to remove some of the bolted on rails, install the nuts, then re-line up the original bolted down sliders and fasten those back down - kinda irritating)
  • the piece over the jack cubby is a little ill-fit for the rubber molding there; again, without instructions I am not quite sure I have it positioned correctly or if some other modification was supposed to be done there
  • There are no pre-drilled holes for the brackets that tie down the 60 and 40 center supports to the seat bolt locations; there were holes on the 60 piece that seemed like they were supposed to be the bracket holes, but they were quite misaligned if they were
    • Here again, without instructions I ASSUMED the four, beefy, slotted 90-deg brackets were for this purpose, but... maybe I "over-thunk" that... perhaps????
  • a few of the bolts that are installed are not counter-sunk, nor are the cubby panel locks; it would be nicer if everything was flush, but... well... it is what it is
    • I will likely put a bit of carpet over it anyway, so it might be a bit lumpy but not quite as catching for anything on the floor
  • the access panel for the rear storage cubby is awfully small - it is not as wide as the cubby, so anything you wish to put into the cubby needs to be squashed through the access panel (my spiffy Blue Ridge Overland tool bag and recovery strap bag that fit nicely in the cubby barely squeeze through; I doubt I can put any more tools in that bag and still get it past that access way
Here are some tidbits of advice for anyone coming along afterward with these plates:
  • you will need
    • 4 mm and 5 mm allen wrenches (or equivalent); everything on the Goose plates is one of these
    • 18 mm socket for seat removal; note you probably need an impact wrench or a ratchet with a hefty length or a long-ish breaker bar for that one crazy tight seat belt bolt;
      • I ended up grabbing an impact socket when getting the larger ratchet; the bolt was so stuck it seemed like it was stripping the ridges in my crappy normal socket (and at the same time damaging the bolt head); that beefier impact socket grabbed hold and I had no more issue
    • 13 mm and 15mm sockets for a couple connections between the 60/40 sections of the seats if you wish to remove them separate from each other
    • a flat screw driver or trim tool to pop the covers on the factory floor anchor loops
    • anti-seize paste - on a video of a rear plate install, they noted putting the paste on the main plate bolts into the factory threads in the floor
      • not something I use often - Auto Zone had a tiny foil packet of the stuff for ~$1.60 which was perfect for this tiny job
    • a ~1/4-inch drill bit and drill (if you wish to anchor the 60/40 plates to the seat bolt points in the floor)
  • do not bolt down the main plate before getting the 60 and 40 plates ready and laid in
    • there are two permanent seat bolts that remain sticking up from the floor that the 60 and 40 plates must be set over, so you have to have play in the main plate to slide the 60 and 40 UNDER the main plate, yet over those bolts (that was one of my trial and error episodes noted above)
    • Thinking about it afterward, I should have noticed it... but... I was excited
  • the 60 and 40 plate center supports should be installed to the REAR of the central aluminum channel - that way they will be properly positioned to allow installation of the anchor brackets on the seat bolt locations
    • I figured it out from putzing and a peek at that @Overland_Texas post
  • I removed my floor mats - I am hoping that was the correct call (well, if it isn't, then I am in good company with Overland_Texas)
Install Notes and Pics:

1. Remove the back floor carpet panel
2. Remove the 6 tie down loops; removal of these allows removal of the side carpet pieces (Goose provides new bolts for the six anchor points)
3. Remove the cover for the jack
4. Remove the seats and the carpet beneath the rear of the seats (save the seat bolts - they will be re-used)

20200530_102256.jpg


Underside of main plate:

20200530_102537.jpg


Top side:

20200530_102646.jpg


5. I set the main plate in and loosely installed the six Goose-supplied bolts with anti-seize; DO NOT tighten them down until all three plates are positioned


Underside of 60 plate (note that the center vertical support needs to be mounted to the rear of the center channel - which in this pic means to the right of that center channel; you will need to remove one of the end channels perpendicular to the center channel in order to insert the channel nuts for the vertical support):

20200530_104609.jpg


Top side of 60 plate (note the hole in the bottom left - that is the hole for the permanent seat bolt that you must slide the plate over, but the "tab" section of unfinished wood must slide under the matching section of the main plate - thus, do not anchor the main plate until you have both 60 and 40 plates ready to go in)

20200530_104647.jpg


Vertical supports for the 60 plate (note the three holes in the bottom of the center support that extends over the hump - those holes did not align with my seat bolt holes, and I had to drill additional holes to use the provided anchor brackets)

20200530_104812.jpg


6. Install the vertical plates using the supplied channel nuts and bolts
- best to install the vertical panels loosely at first, then set the plate into place to get an idea of how best to align the panels relative to the contours of the vehicle trim, etc.

Here's what I was talking about with getting the center support channel nuts in place; I had to unbolt one of the end channels to slide the nuts into the center channel (there was no place in the channel to insert the nuts other than the ends)

20200530_110239.jpg


Here're the holes that I thought were provided for the seat bolt brackets... obviously not gonna align; had to drill my own (not a big deal for most normal human beings - just be aware of it; it was a big deal to me because I found out my drill battery wouldn't take a charge and I had to drive 35 miles to my sister's place to borrow a drill)

20200530_112636.jpg


7. Set the 60 plate in and align it with the main plate using the permanent seat bolt as a prime reference point

8. Do the same vertical support setup with the 40 plate

9. After aligning the 40 plate vertical supports to fit everything, set it in place and align with the main plate and 60 plate (same permanent seat bolt deal)

10. There is a small plate with four threaded screw holes that provides a tie point between the 40 and 60 plates near the front end of the seam; install that plate once everything seems to be aligned properly

Under side of 40 plate (crap - I didn't remove the wrapped vertical supports - sorry; under that package is the same kind of center channel as the 60 plate):

20200530_114025.jpg


Top side of 40 plate - ummm... I guess I got antsy and forgot to grab a shot

Here're the vertical supports for the 40 plate (note that there are NO holes for the seat bolt anchor brackets; again, I had to drill my own):

20200530_114057.jpg


A shot of the 60 plate over-hump:

20200530_122628.jpg


60 plate floor bolt brackets on center vertical support:

20200530_231239.jpg


Main plate to 60/40 plates seam:

20200530_231809.jpg


Brother-in-law getting BEvERages after completion... umm... and the whole system installed (note that the gap between the 40 and 60 plates seems to have been by design / intent because the connector plate spreads them like that):

20200530_145753.jpg




Hope that is useful to someone... let me know if there's anything I missed or could clarify!!

Cheers!!! :beer::beer::beer::flag:




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Karnak

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Awesome, tks for the reviews and comments, pretty funny, I was actually looking at goose products online and browsing overlanding stuff and then I come back you posted this...:D
 

Overland_Texas

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Excellent review and instructions. I experienced all of the same things. My 60% center support had no pre drilled holes. I would have been suspect of those three. I wonder what they're for? I might ask Brian at Expo next month. They might use that same piece for a gladiator reat seat delete or something similar. Well done!
 
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GrumpyBadger

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Excellent review and instructions. I experienced all of the same things. My 60% center support had no pre drilled holes. I would have been suspect of those three. I wonder what they're for? I might ask Brian at Expo next month. They might use that same piece for a gladiator reat seat delete or something similar. Well done!
Thanks for your ground breaking in the absence of instructions.

I emailed Goose with the same "nit" observations. I hope they take them in the spirit of constructive / better going forward thoughts.
 
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GrumpyBadger

GrumpyBadger

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Since I did my install... this dude did a bit of video:

 

CaliMat

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Great writeup, one question what is the height of the storage space behind the driver seat and under the plate?
 
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GrumpyBadger

GrumpyBadger

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Great writeup, one question what is the height of the storage space behind the driver seat and under the plate?
It varies a bit depending on the floor contour, of course. My Goal Zero Yeti 500 lithium fits nicely with room to spare, and it is ~6 inches tall. In the larger, forward bays there is 7 inches to the bottom of the aluminum braces, but 8 inches in between the braces. The rear bays start at 8 inches and go down from there because of the floor contours.

I believe the spaces on both passenger and driver side are essentially equivalent, but the access panels on the driver side (40% plate) are a lot smaller than those on the passenger side (60%) plate, so the drive side spaces seem smaller.

OK... bunch of pics:

20200801_125046.jpg


20200801_123730.jpg


20200801_125117.jpg


Passenger side, rear bay
20200801_122931.jpg


Passenger side, forward bay
20200801_123003.jpg


Driver side, rear bay
20200801_123101.jpg

Driver side, forward bay
20200801_123111.jpg


Driver side behind seat space (seat all the way forward; 1-liter Nalgene for scale)
20200801_123848.jpg


Passenger side behind seat space (seat all the way forward; Turbo Toilet for scale :blush: )
20200801_131535.jpg


10-liter / 2.5-gallon Scepter water can in Passenger side forward bay
20200801_131702.jpg


1-liter Nalgene in Passenger side rear bay
20200801_123929.jpg


Hope that does it for ya. Let me know if I can measure anything else.

Cheers!
 
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Overland_Texas

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Great writeup, one question what is the height of the storage space behind the driver seat and under the plate?

It varies a bit depending on the floor contour, of course. I will check a little bit later when I get motivated for the day. I'll update / edit this post. For now... if it helps... my Goal Zero Yeti 500 lithium fits nicely with room to spare, and it is ~6 inches tall. I think there is at least 1-2 extra room.

Stand by...
i agree it varies by the contour of the floor. The front compartments are taller than the rear compartments.

I keep an AGM battery in mine. The factory jeep battery will fit under the GG floor. There's nearly 8 inches of clearance at one point.

@CaliMat what are you wanting to store under the floor?
 

CaliMat

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Like you I'm thinking of putting a battery down there. Do you have any pictures of your setup? How did you secure the battery?
 
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GrumpyBadger

GrumpyBadger

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Like you I'm thinking of putting a battery down there. Do you have any pictures of your setup? How did you secure the battery?
I've not really used the Yeti yet thanks to various factors (I had planned a 2 week CO mountains trip in July, but that fell apart). I think the Rock Pals will fit upright, but the Jackerys will not.

As for "setup", my thought was to simply place it in the driver side forward bay when moving - it will not go anywhere down in there in a crash, etc., though if I go off road I may consider finding some way to keep it from bouncing. I think there is enough open space for airflow to avoid an overheat issue.

I am considering running an extra dedicated 12v line into the center console from one of my 40 amp switches (easier) or straight from the battery (more irritating going through the firewall), with an outlet low on the driver side to plug in the Yeti for charging while the engine is running (it can charge and output at the same time). Then I can run whatever from there and turn off the charging easily when stopped at camp.

Note that the Yeti will juuuuusssst fit through the Goose access panel on the driver forward bay, but does NOT fit through the driver rear access panel - weird because the panels are the same size, but the floor contours make it slightly shallower in the rear bay. No problem for the passenger side bays with larger access panels.
 

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