Goin2drt's Sting Gray JLUR build

BSeger

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Love the build journal and all the mods! I’ve wanted to paint the underside of my hard top as well but thought the paint fumes (after drying) would get to me once the hardtop was installed. Any concerns with yours now that it’s done?





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Goin2drt

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Love the build journal and all the mods! I’ve wanted to paint the underside of my hard top as well but thought the paint fumes (after drying) would get to me once the hardtop was installed. Any concerns with yours now that it’s done?
No regrets but yes you can smell the paint. After about a week it is almost gone but you can still smell it. I assume it will eventually be completely gone. It does make the inside so much quieter and looks finished. I am still liking it better.
 
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Goin2drt

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Latest mod - Diode Dynamics light bar

So this is what I bought during BF - https://www.diodedynamics.com/stage-series-12-sae-dot-white-light-bar-one.html. I bought the SAE fog as that is what I actually need where I live and I do not do ANY night time offroading so this works. It doesn't look as cool as the driving but oh well.
Also bought this (don't it will explain later) - https://www.diodedynamics.com/light-duty-dual-output-offroad-wiring-harness.html

You would think this would be a basic install however it was not.
1. The brackets that came with it did not work. The "base" flipped out away from the light. This made it too wide for my placement on my bull bar. I actually had to take the brackets to a buddy and bend the feet inward. Of course they broke off when we did this so he tig welded them back on inwards. My mounting hole width is 13 in exactly. I would have thought a 12" light bar would work as is. Nope.
2. Then the brackets a standard chrome/silver color which doesn't match at all so I needed to sand and paint them, check.
3. Mounting it and running the wires to near the battery was simple. I did buy wire tubing for the wire to make it cleaner. I also just connected them to my AUX switch so that was a connect and attach the ground. Would have taken much longer if I would have wanted the light to turn on with my headlights but I did not. As mentioned after I bought that $20 wiring harness which was a waste. No real explanation of what it is but it allows you to install 1 or 2 lightbars to one switch and supplied a switch. If you are using Aux switches then all you need is some extra red and black 16 gauge wire, say the $20.

Lastly I need something to clean up the wire at the light. I ran it into where the winch is but the wire needs some sort of attachment to the bull bar running down the back. Hard to explain but I will figure it out.

I will report back on actually how good it works in the dark. For now other than the above I am happy with the quality it appears very well made, sturdy with some heft to it.
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Today was the Jtops shade. I ordered via BF sale and ordered the full shade with hard top cut outs.

Install was easy however I could have taken about half the time with a few pro tips I will share. I did watch the install video first.

1. they have these extra strap retainers that you can see in the pic. Do all of these BEFORE tightening down for the last time.
2. Also there are not holes for all the latches for the freedom panels. I thought I was sent the wrong one. You basically close them by pushing along the shade.
3. the whole front piece unattaches and flips back to do the front latches. Again figured it out but took me a minute.

over all the quality and fit appear top notch. It is cold here
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so won’t be reporting back on function for some time.
 

SlowPoke21

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I thought their “hard top” models had cutouts for the freedom panels in the rear. I would check if I were you.

I knew the front had to fold back to access the front.

These really are great tops. Have one for a JKU model I’m trying to sell. Eventually will get one for the JLUR.
 

eLECTRICON

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@supremepower build is coming along nicely. We got our @rockslideengineering step sliders. Sorry no install pics as I was busy helping. Wanted to be involved so I could talk intelligently about the install process.

The install took about 4 hours but could be about an hour or so quicker. I got super anal about the wiring and also had to move my ARB air chock mount. Also that included removing the stock sliders.

We followed the directions on line to the letter and that was HUGE. The instructions they provide really make this process an easy one. No special tools needed and really could be a one man job with very limited skills needed.

The actual install of the sliders went well. The body bolts were the toughest and really just the forward ones. I needed a breaker bar to loosen those but the rest were good. I did actually torque all the nuts as well so you will need a TQ wrench (that would be the only special tool). As for the wiring it was self explanatory. Just takes patience and time. Easy to route and the interior panels pop off and back on easily. Also the door sensors took me a little time because I wanted those perfect and in the best location that did not have a bunch of the wire exposed.

Once completed it worked perfectly as it should. They are durable and stick out perfectly to line up with the stock fenders. These will really be a great addition and Mama will be really happy so she can get in easily. End of the day for someone who wants steps that do not protrude and potentially hung up on rocks as well as a very solid slider, these are really the best and only solution. I really like the super clean look. Call up Eric @supremepower and he can set you up with a set.

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Q1: When your standing on the ground reaching into the jeep does your body/legs rub on the slider? IE: reaching in to adjust the heat/AC and road grime from the slider staining your work pants.
Q2: when getting in the drivers seat does your calf rub?(if your not purposely going out of your way to avoid it.)
I've had no problems with the above with the stock Rubicon sliders. When I had steps I had issues with snow melt chemicals/salt getting on my work/military uniform.
 
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Q1: When your standing on the ground reaching into the jeep does your body/legs rub on the slider? IE: reaching in to adjust the heat/AC and road grime from the slider staining your work pants.
Q2: when getting in the drivers seat does your calf rub?(if your not purposely going out of your way to avoid it.)
I've had no problems with the above with the stock Rubicon sliders. When I had steps I had issues with snow melt chemicals/salt getting on my work/military uniform.
I have not had any of these issues. I would expect I wouldn't as I am 6'2" with long bird legs HOWEVER my wife at 5'8" also does not have the problem.

The actual step is up in the slider if that makes sense so I think it would be real tough to make a mess. I will say though if you are not ready for the step and you are standing really close to the Jeep you will get a step right on the chin. They come down fast.
 

eLECTRICON

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I have not had any of these issues. I would expect I wouldn't as I am 6'2" with long bird legs HOWEVER my wife at 5'8" also does not have the problem.

The actual step is up in the slider if that makes sense so I think it would be real tough to make a mess. I will say though if you are not ready for the step and you are standing really close to the Jeep you will get a step right on the chin. They come down fast.
Thank you. Ill probably beat up my stock rubi sliders for now, but I like these. definitely on my wish list. I was questioning the width of just the slider from the door jam. Ill mock a 2x4 to test it out. but i might just stick with stock and some rocker armor.
 
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Thank you. Ill probably beat up my stock rubi sliders for now, but I like these. definitely on my wish list. I was questioning the width of just the slider from the door jam. Ill mock a 2x4 to test it out. but i might just stick with stock and some rocker armor.
If I wanted a lift and bigger tires the wife said we need a solution for her to get in and out without jumping. It was a no brainer for me.
 

aham23

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ARB installed.

First of all - ALL THE CREDIT goes to Jim @Kansascoast

I really only wanted to mount this under the hood. So I have been waiting. Owned the ARB for months. Jim engineered a bracket so I got one. Then on top of that he sent me just a ton of pics to help as well as allowed me to call him on the phone as I am not all that mechanically inclined. I finished up the install today and voila, it works perfectly.

I needed some help to mount the ARB. Someone to hold from the top while you find, thread and tighten the screws. Once it was all mounted then it was on to running the air line. I did exactly what Jim did and ran the line down and mounted the bib right under the door to the frame bracket. Jim provided all the pics that I used to walk into my hardware store and get all the correct parts.

After that then was the wiring. I used 3/4" black flex tubing to run the wires from the harness up under the "square wire loom" that is already in place by the fire wall over to the battery. When doing this there are two connectors and looms. One is the positive and negative, big wires. The other is the small switch wire loom. For me the only wire you need from that entire mess is the purple wire. You hook that to the orange (Aux 3 button) wire over by the battery if you have the aux switches. The rest of all of it I cut off.

Hooked up the 2 pos wires to the battery, hooked up the 2 neg (one tiny and one large) to the ground block by the fuse box and done. The compressor now works when you push the aux 3 button. Best part there is no lifting the hood. It is all right there.

Can't thank Jim enough for all the hard work to make this dream possible. He truly is McGuyver. First 4 photos are my photos of my job. The remainder are from Jim to help assist on the install.

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At the battery side of wiring did you have to add any cable or just add the plug ends. Seems like they could run a bit short especially the negative? I’m on the struggle bus trying to get this wiring figured out.
 
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The negative got connected at the footwell where the aux switch wire is nearby there is a ground just for that purpose. I did not add any wire for the ARB install. I wired to my aux switch 1 (I think) and did not do any extra switches or relays like some are. Not sure why they do it when the aux switch works just fine. This was a rather easy instal I thought and I am not a handy man at all. Best thing is remove the passenger seat so you have plenty of room.
 

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Time for more mods. It has been awhile as it has been in the shop a lot getting the PSC steering system fixed.

Added I front off road camera
  1. Camera ordered was this one - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B083SF5VVN/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  2. Because I have a Tazer already I then ordered this connection plug - https://www.zautomotive.com/product/video-cable/
  3. I then ordered a few extra things all from Amazon; extra wire, micro add a fuse, 22.5mm drill bit and this stuff to run the wire through for a cleaner install - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B082B7GK9C/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
First started at the radio and followed the Zauto instruction for installing the video cable in the stock radio wire harness. I have an 18 so I used those specific holes.

First freebie FYI - the camera will have a very long cable to run from radio to front. At the radio there is a red power wire and the yellow video jack. YOU ONLY USE THE YELLOW VIDEO JACK. Red wire you don’t use.

Then I install the camera. It comes with a cheap drill bit drill the hole. It snapped and the hole drill part skipped on the paint and made for some ugly scratches. Get yourself a good bit. Ordered one from Amazon. Also got a rubber auto washer to use on the install to cover up some scratches. My bumper are gray and a bitch to color match.

Second freebie FYI. There is a green and white wire and the end by the camera. Cut both those loops for no grid lines and front facing. Fine print tells you that.

I then ran the ground and power through the nice heat shield and run the wire along driver side engine bay, up and over through the wire channel over to the fuse box. I used an add a fuse and used the heated seat spot in the fuse box. Grounded the wire right by the battery at those ground posts and completed.

Camera quality is no where near the rear but it will do. You can’t get HD on the front facing camera.
Don’t you have to have a 8.4” U connect for the front trail cam to work with the Tazer?
 
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Goin2drt

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Don’t you have to have a 8.4” U connect for the front trail cam to work with the Tazer?
I am not 100% certain on that.
 

Jeep&dogs

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So other than the leaks on the PSC kit what was your overall impression of it? How does it drive? Is the steering too light?
 

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