Getting the MetalCloak Gamechanger lift installed

Trill

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Shock is good. It clears the bolt on tie-rod just barely. How can you help? Btw, I have the Fox tie-rod mount coming. Was fixing to order that rockjock kit.
That's pretty fortunate. Personally I would pull the whole thing off until you had the right parts just in case. There is not a lot of room there to account for bumps and vibrations. But that is up to you.

The metalcloak tie rod clamp looks fine there is no reason to buy a new one. Not sure what the rockjock kit is but you probably don't need that either.

I'm assuming you used a spacer between the tie rod clamp and the shock body mount for two reasons. First being the bolt was too long and it was bottoming out on the tie rod and blocking the shock shaft. The second is that you wanted to get the tie rod end of the shock closer to the same height as the axle side end.

I think you should solve that second problem by ditching the metalcloak axle side bracket. It sits up a lot higher than the track bar bolt which is where that end of the shock is usually mounted. You can use this bolt:

Synergy Jeep JK / JKU / JL / JLU / JT Stabilizer Mount Stud | SYNERGY MANUFACTURING (synergymfg.com)

Then ditch the spacer between the shock body and tie rod mount, and buy a shorter bolt that looks similar to what came with the fox ATS. The MC clamp is tapped for M12-1.75 so that's what you will need. If that's what the Fox bolt already is then it saves you a trip to the hardware store.

You will also need to loosen the small bolt on the shock body mount and flip the shock body so the res is on top.

Alternatively, if you are completely happy with how everything is with the exception of your axle side rod end floating in the bracket, then you just need to get some 3/4 OD 1/8 wall aluminum tube. It's like $5 per foot, you can cut it easily with a hack saw and file it down to make home-made spacers.
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jellis4148

jellis4148

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That's pretty fortunate. Personally I would pull the whole thing off until you had the right parts just in case. There is not a lot of room there to account for bumps and vibrations. But that is up to you.

The metalcloak tie rod clamp looks fine there is no reason to buy a new one. Not sure what the rockjock kit is but you probably don't need that either.

I'm assuming you used a spacer between the tie rod clamp and the shock body mount for two reasons. First being the bolt was too long and it was bottoming out on the tie rod and blocking the shock shaft. The second is that you wanted to get the tie rod end of the shock closer to the same height as the axle side end.

I think you should solve that second problem by ditching the metalcloak axle side bracket. It sits up a lot higher than the track bar bolt which is where that end of the shock is usually mounted. You can use this bolt:

Synergy Jeep JK / JKU / JL / JLU / JT Stabilizer Mount Stud | SYNERGY MANUFACTURING (synergymfg.com)

Then ditch the spacer between the shock body and tie rod mount, and buy a shorter bolt that looks similar to what came with the fox ATS. The MC clamp is tapped for M12-1.75 so that's what you will need. If that's what the Fox bolt already is then it saves you a trip to the hardware store.

You will also need to loosen the small bolt on the shock body mount and flip the shock body so the res is on top.

Alternatively, if you are completely happy with how everything is with the exception of your axle side rod end floating in the bracket, then you just need to get some 3/4 OD 1/8 wall aluminum tube. It's like $5 per foot, you can cut it easily with a hack saw and file it down to make home-made spacers.
I’m pretty happy with everything except the axle side. I thought the bolt was 1/2 inch diameter. Here is the Rockjock kit. Don’t need the stud, but the rubber spacers look good. Here’s the link. https://www.rockjock4x4.com/JK-9703SS
 

Trill

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I’m pretty happy with everything except the axle side. I thought the bolt was 1/2 inch diameter. Here is the Rockjock kit. Don’t need the stud, but the rubber spacers look good. Here’s the link. https://www.rockjock4x4.com/JK-9703SS
Maybe that will work, I have no idea, but that's obviously intended to replace an entire rubber bushing assembly and not act as a spacer kit for a uniball in a double shear bracket. Using rubber bushings as spacers will also do nothing to prevent the bracket from collapsing under the torque of the bolt but at this point that's pretty far down on the list of problems. I think we should take a step back and really decide if we really want to mickey mouse a $500 steering shock onto a $3000 suspension kit. Hopefully more guys can chime in with their opinions because I feel like we are going backwards. Again I'm happy to help but I'm not going to have you do something I would never do with my own jeep in a million years.
 
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jellis4148

jellis4148

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I’ll buy some aluminum spacers also. Only real concern is the axle side.
 
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jellis4148

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So, I called and talked to Will at Metalcloak, and he said it looks fine. The guys at Fox said during hard driver articulation I’ll snap the stabilizer in half. Metalcloak says they use the synergy stud but my configuration will work fine.
 

Memcdowe

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Couple things to look for with those shocks at full flex.... The shock body hitting the frame if you don’t have shock relocation brackets on......

A1ED5DD5-5715-4A18-860B-FEBA961B56E3.jpeg


The drive shaft , even though it’s aftermarket will hit the exhaust, not bad but will rub the paint....

B1119C8C-EEAD-432C-8142-1E4A005BDE3F.jpeg


Also keep an eye on your brake line, fad wire harness, and locker wire harness. They’ll need to be released from some of their connecting points.

Im sure your shop did an awesome job, no disrespect, this is just a heads up from experience with these shocks. They extend 1/2” longer than the rock sports, and with the GCs flexibility like the RK it’s a different world...........✌
I’m trying to decide which shocks to go with next. Daily Driver but like to go at it hard when off-roading 2 or so times a month.

MC GC 3.5 with Rocksports currently. 17k miles. Rocksports getting a bit soft. Fine for me but making wife car sick. So, wanting a firmer ride but not so much that the 100-200 miles I drive a day won’t be miserable haha.

I see you have experience with the fox 2.5. I’ve been considering the fox 2.5 adjustable resi and the Radflo 2.5 adjustable resi.
Thoughts? Some saying 2.0 plenty. Hard to get good feedback and don’t wanna play a dang near $3k guessing game haha. Thx!
 

Memcdowe

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I tried the synergy stud with my JK. 3 of them. The little button bolt that holds the dampener to the TB bolt is VERY soft. Even torqued to exact specs, using high quality exact fit bit, still deforms. I’ve had to cut two off. Just FYI.
 

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I’m trying to decide which shocks to go with next. Daily Driver but like to go at it hard when off-roading 2 or so times a month.

MC GC 3.5 with Rocksports currently. 17k miles. Rocksports getting a bit soft. Fine for me but making wife car sick. So, wanting a firmer ride but not so much that the 100-200 miles I drive a day won’t be miserable haha.

I see you have experience with the fox 2.5. I’ve been considering the fox 2.5 adjustable resi and the Radflo 2.5 adjustable resi.
Thoughts? Some saying 2.0 plenty. Hard to get good feedback and don’t wanna play a dang near $3k guessing game haha. Thx!
I don’t have any “ass in seat” experience with the 2.0 resi , but have heard good things about them.

Radflo is a good shock also, just keep in mind that your rocksports are 30” extended length, so whichever one you choose pay attention to their ext length, otherwise you’ll be losing some flexibility. I personally love the 2.5s, they have been working great for me so far.

And I’m not just saying it because I bought them, I’m the type that doesn’t hesitate to yank something back off my rig and put it on marketplace, if I find something better.....😁

Like I said in your thread, make sure you get them from @AccuTune Offroad , so you can get them set up for your driving style..........👍

https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/fo...engths-etc-fox-and-radflow.69410/post-1458960
 

Sgt Beavis

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I just dropped my Jeep off at All Seasons 4x4 to get the 3.5” Game Changer installed. I’m expecting it back on Friday, in time for Saturday’s Jeeps and Java meet up in Denver.
 
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jellis4148

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I’ve been looking at some control arm skid plates. Will the ones from Rockhard work with the lift? If not, what have other people used?
 

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I’ve been looking at some control arm skid plates. Will the ones from Rockhard work with the lift? If not, what have other people used?
I use those with my GC 2.5 no problem, though they don't play well with the MC FAD skid plate. I had to notch the FAD skid to work. Rock-hard says to go 100 ft/lbs on torque but I found that was too loose and torqued more to factory spec.
 
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jellis4148

jellis4148

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I use those with my GC 2.5 no problem, though they don't play well with the MC FAD skid plate. I had to notch the FAD skid to work. Rock-hard says to go 100 ft/lbs on torque but I found that was too loose and torqued more to factory spec.
How do they get in the way of the FAD skid? Can you send a pic?
 

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I’ve been looking at some control arm skid plates. Will the ones from Rockhard work with the lift? If not, what have other people used?
I have Rancho rear control arm skids and front and rear diff skids. I like the fact that you only loose the 1/4” thickness of the steel in ground clearance.

I had to paint them black, with the diff skids there was too much red....lol. On the front, nothing yet, but probably going with Artec on those.

0B2D2708-5FFE-45FE-B5E6-6318E7507693.png
 
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jellis4148

jellis4148

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I have Rancho rear control arm skids and front and rear diff skids. I like the fact that you only loose the 1/4” thickness of the steel in ground clearance.

I had to paint them black, with the diff skids there was too much red....lol. On the front, nothing yet, but probably going with Artec on those.

0B2D2708-5FFE-45FE-B5E6-6318E7507693.png

Looks really good. Can’t do front shock skids cause of the MC shock relocation bracket.
 

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Looks really good. Can’t do front shock skids cause of the MC shock relocation bracket.
I went with EVO relo brackets because I didn’t want to give up the extra 1-1/2” up travel. They also give some protection.
 
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