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Genesis Off-Road Dual Battery Kit

WranglerMan

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I was a bit intimidated doing the install myself but it’s very straight forward. I had no issues and was really pleased with the result. Genesis did one of the best jobs I’ve seen of giving the consumer good install information and documentation. I just followed the video instructions. I 100% agree that the Jeep design is very problematic.
Well I’m having Ryan at Tank Customs do my install next week I hope, @TTEChris at Tank Customs has done all my work and after recently visiting his shop and seeing its expanding I can see why, in my opinion his shop does some of the best work in the Houston Texas area and he stands behind all work and products even it it’s a loss to him on profit which I think is unheard of these days.

Not sure if Ryan is active here or not but so that’s why I tagged Chris, it’s kinda funny on how the Genesis deal came along, I went in there wanting a custom hitch fabricated and installed and came out with a duel battery system and hitch, so much for saving $$$ but hey we all know what JEEP stands for ( JUST EMPTY EVERY POCKET )
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oceanblue2019

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I consider myself pretty handy but this is over the top for me yes he’s putting in the genesis system but just getting to that ESS battery is BS, I know there are some that say it can be accessed from the wheel well but you have to remove the fender flare and liner which is another headache.

I know changing a battery does not happen very often but changing one should only require a few simple tools but I guess that’s FCA‘s way of a poor design location wise, I don’t use ESS as I have it bypassed with a Smart Stop/Start module but I know I’m running on borrowed time coming up on 3 years on the factory batteries and even though the Genesis is a pretty pricy investment even if you do it your self when it’s time to replace the batteries it appears to be a simpler process than the stock setup plus I will have the peace of mind.
Once you've done it it's not bad to get to that ESS battery. It looks ominous as hell, I agree, but I've had mine out a few times now and after the first time it goes really quick and you find the shortcuts.
 

WranglerMan

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Once you've done it it's not bad to get to that ESS battery. It looks ominous as hell, I agree, but I've had mine out a few times now and after the first time it goes really quick and you find the shortcuts.
Well after next week maybe I won’t have to worry as it will be gone ...
 

Redbaron73

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I do not have any accessories that I use for power with vehicle off, except for a dash cam wired into the factory tow harness aux wires.

With that being said, I would love to replace the aux battery with a full size. Using the genesis kit as is shown in their video, the 2md battery would never be used in my situation.

Has anyone wired the 2nd battery to take the role of the original aux for start stop powering of devices? This would be more advantageous for me, and allow me flexibility if I ever change how I use 12v power while overlanding.
 

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I do not have any accessories that I use for power with vehicle off, except for a dash cam wired into the factory tow harness aux wires.

With that being said, I would love to replace the aux battery with a full size. Using the genesis kit as is shown in their video, the 2md battery would never be used in my situation.

Has anyone wired the 2nd battery to take the role of the original aux for start stop powering of devices? This would be more advantageous for me, and allow me flexibility if I ever change how I use 12v power while overlanding.
Technically, yes, I did. I installed the Genesis kit but I run the fridge, usb ports, and rear lights from my third aux battery in the back.

The Genesis is planned for winch (heavy draw but rare), lights, etc. Right now it is a 130ah starter/aux battery and a jump starter if I need it by pushing the button and connecting them together.
 
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Redbaron73

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Technicall, yes, I did. I installed the Genesis kit but I run the fridge, usb ports, and rear lights from my third aux battery in the back.

The Genesis is planned for winch (heavy draw but rare), lights, etc. Right now it is a 130ah starter/aux battery and a jump starter if I need it by pushing the button and connecting them together.
Did you wrap off the original aux ground, Nd tie the original aux positive to the main battery, or did you choose to keep the original factory wiring layout, just larger batteries?

I have a 12k warn winch, but as you say, it rarely is used.

I have led lights at tailgate for interior lighting, and a dash cam. All are wired to a lbco set at 11.9v, so I am not worried about killing the starting battery, but it would be nice if those circuits which run off the aux battery now could run off a larger aux.

I have killed my aux battery within 6 months. Warranty is covering it, but the constant use of my dashcam means that small battery is working overtime.

I really like the features genesis provides, but find it hard to justify a really nice 2nd battery doing even less work than my full size spare.
 

Overland Productions

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Did you wrap off the original aux ground, Nd tie the original aux positive to the main battery, or did you choose to keep the original factory wiring layout, just larger batteries?

I have a 12k warn winch, but as you say, it rarely is used.

I have led lights at tailgate for interior lighting, and a dash cam. All are wired to a lbco set at 11.9v, so I am not worried about killing the starting battery, but it would be nice if those circuits which run off the aux battery now could run off a larger aux.

I have killed my aux battery within 6 months. Warranty is covering it, but the constant use of my dashcam means that small battery is working overtime.

I really like the features genesis provides, but find it hard to justify a really nice 2nd battery doing even less work than my full size spare.
The factory negative aux cable will not reach to the new position in a Genesis set up. Since these batteries are configured in parallel they are now one big battery and that connection is no longer needed. I have the 2.0 so that particular cable does not exist in my wiring harness.

The stop/start feature is engaged when a confluence of things come together. If you have been driving for a while and the batteries (before genesis kit) are fully charged the engine will typically shut off at stop lights. If the radio is up loud and the woofer is booming thats an extra electrical draw and the computer makes a calculation to keep the engine on a little longer or shut it down at the light immediately. If the a/c is on the engine needs to run a little longer and the computer keeps it going instead of an immediate shut down at stop lights. Any number of factors could keep the engine running longer instead of going to the shut down based on power needs.

After the genesis kit was installed I noticed that my stop/start always engages at red lights and stop signs. I think the computer see's a strong power source with the 65ah aux battery and decides it's ok to turn the motor off with plenty of backup power. It turns the motor off and for longer periods of time. If i sit in a drive thru waiting for food it will stay off for the duration. Before the genesis it would stay off for a minute but always turn the motor back on to continue charging.

That's my experience for what it's worth. if you have those additional electrical features I think it's worth the investment. I feel really secure camping off the grid on a mountain with that extra battery. When I install a winch it will be even more valuable to me.
 

oceanblue2019

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The factory negative aux cable will not reach to the new position in a Genesis set up. Since these batteries are configured in parallel they are now one big battery and that connection is no longer needed. I have the 2.0 so that particular cable does not exist in my wiring harness.

The stop/start feature is engaged when a confluence of things come together. If you have been driving for a while and the batteries (before genesis kit) are fully charged the engine will typically shut off at stop lights. If the radio is up loud and the woofer is booming thats an extra electrical draw and the computer makes a calculation to keep the engine on a little longer or shut it down at the light immediately. If the a/c is on the engine needs to run a little longer and the computer keeps it going instead of an immediate shut down at stop lights. Any number of factors could keep the engine running longer instead of going to the shut down based on power needs.

After the genesis kit was installed I noticed that my stop/start always engages at red lights and stop signs. I think the computer see's a strong power source with the 65ah aux battery and decides it's ok to turn the motor off with plenty of backup power. It turns the motor off and for longer periods of time. If i sit in a drive thru waiting for food it will stay off for the duration. Before the genesis it would stay off for a minute but always turn the motor back on to continue charging.

That's my experience for what it's worth. if you have those additional electrical features I think it's worth the investment. I feel really secure camping off the grid on a mountain with that extra battery. When I install a winch it will be even more valuable to me.
With a 2018 2.0 you have the BSG/etorque setup -- I think?

It is completely different in that it has a 48VDC battery and a starter/generator -- basically the electrical system that runs at that higher voltage to be able to do a rolling bump start out of the ESS cycle.

The 12V system is secondary and only to run the 12V Jeep systems. The 12V system is charged from the 48V system via a DC to DC convertor.

So it is pretty interesting you are saying that the Genesis dual 12V had any impact on the ESS. It should not have unless your 2018 is somehow a 2.0L without BSG/etorque.

The BSG only cares about the health of the 48V system to make it's decision on start/stop.
 

Overland Productions

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With a 2018 2.0 you have the BSG/etorque setup -- I think?

It is completely different in that it has a 48VDC battery and a starter/generator -- basically the electrical system that runs at that higher voltage to be able to do a rolling bump start out of the ESS cycle.

The 12V system is secondary and only to run the 12V Jeep systems. The 12V system is charged from the 48V system via a DC to DC convertor.

So it is pretty interesting you are saying that the Genesis dual 12V had any impact on the ESS. It should not have unless your 2018 is somehow a 2.0L without BSG/etorque.

The BSG only cares about the health of the 48V system to make it's decision on start/stop.
I see a difference. Maybe it's a coincidence? Yes, it has the 48v battery where I wish i could install a long range fuel tank instead. I may have to switch over to a diesel platform for the extra range.
 

oceanblue2019

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I see a difference. Maybe it's a coincidence? Yes, it has the 48v battery where I wish i could install a long range fuel tank instead. I may have to switch over to a diesel platform for the extra range.
It's just very interesting as it is not how I understand the Genesis setup to work.

If you attach nothing to those new accessory bus bars off the 2nd battery it does nothing except in an emergency boost.

I actually use the 48V battery to power some accessories like my fridge and compressor.
 

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It's just very interesting as it is not how I understand the Genesis setup to work.

If you attach nothing to those new accessory bus bars off the 2nd battery it does nothing except in an emergency boost.

I actually use the 48V battery to power some accessories like my fridge and compressor.
Yes, we have discussed this in other threads. I'm interested to hear about long term results and if you switched to the other converter. I did some checking and my fridge will run on 24 volt power with no other mods!
 

oceanblue2019

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Yes, we have discussed this in other threads. I'm interested to hear about long term results and if you switched to the other converter. I did some checking and my fridge will run on 24 volt power with no other mods!
Ah, sorry did't recognize the user id.

I reworked the system quite a bit. I am now using a 48V DC to 120 VAC inverter to power the fridge. I went this way as Victron had a very nice inverter that had an input voltage programmable shutdown - so I set that to 40V which means the 48V doesn't get depleted too low to harm it - lithium should only be discharged to around 20% which is still much better then AGM. It also has a very low 2.5W draw when no load so between the fridge compressor running it basically is using nothing. I have it mounted in the cargo compartment. I get about 2.5 day run time off the fridge before the inverter complains about the low input voltage and shuts down. Starting the vehicle and driving for 15 mins re-charges it; or I can let it idle with my Tazer-JL on winch mode to hold high idle and it's charged in 20 mins or so. As we typically hit the trails daily this is not an issue at all.

Inverter

For my compressor I figured out another way to run it as it needed quite a sizable convertor - 24V at 30A so 750W or so. I realized the ARB 24V twin compressor was really just two 24V DC motors (each compressor) so I just wired them in series across the 48V DC so I don't need a convertor at all.

The downside of this is that if one compressor motor fails open, the other will not run. If it fails with a short the remaining compressor will quickly fail as it will see 48V. I decided both of those are very low risk; and risks worthwhile to get rid of a 750W convertor which comes with its own reliability issues.

So I'm very happy with this setup and why I was curious about your setup with the dual battery as to how it could be impacting the BSG.
 

Overland Productions

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Ah, sorry did't recognize the user id.

I reworked the system quite a bit. I am now using a 48V DC to 120 VAC inverter to power the fridge. I went this way as Victron had a very nice inverter that had an input voltage programmable shutdown - so I set that to 40V which means the 48V doesn't get depleted too low to harm it - lithium should only be discharged to around 20% which is still much better then AGM. It also has a very low 2.5W draw when no load so between the fridge compressor running it basically is using nothing. I have it mounted in the cargo compartment. I get about 2.5 day run time off the fridge before the inverter complains about the low input voltage and shuts down. Starting the vehicle and driving for 15 mins re-charges it; or I can let it idle with my Tazer-JL on winch mode to hold high idle and it's charged in 20 mins or so. As we typically hit the trails daily this is not an issue at all.

Inverter

For my compressor I figured out another way to run it as it needed quite a sizable convertor - 24V at 30A so 750W or so. I realized the ARB 24V twin compressor was really just two 24V DC motors (each compressor) so I just wired them in series across the 48V DC so I don't need a convertor at all.

The downside of this is that if one compressor motor fails open, the other will not run. If it fails with a short the remaining compressor will quickly fail as it will see 48V. I decided both of those are very low risk; and risks worthwhile to get rid of a 750W convertor which comes with its own reliability issues.

So I'm very happy with this setup and why I was curious about your setup with the dual battery as to how it could be impacting the BSG.
I am very impressed with the mod's and thank you for the detailed description. I'm going to dive into that in the future.

Regarding the Genesis and BSG (or MGU) I was intrigued by your input. The small bit of research I did after reading your comments show an MGU that charges the 48v power pack unit (among other things). The PPU takes power from the 48v Li and converts it to 12v. Then a control module charges the 12v system. The 12v battery doesn't have an alternator so it receives it's charge from this PPU. Let me know if you agree with this analysis, please.

This begs the question, do the accessories receive power (during shut off) from the 12v battery or from the converter and control module contained within the PPU? Or a combination of both?
 

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Well two weeks post install and I already had to jump start myself thanks to leaving lights on. I hadn't actually tested the setup yet but it worked as intended. Saved my posterior big time. This is a big peace of mind mod for me.
 

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people who've installed this.. are you running power from the house battery under the hood back to a fuse & switch box in the boot or running all the power out from under the hood ? can a mppt solar controller be fit to keep the batteries topped up ?
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