SpookyXJ
Well-Known Member
- Thread starter
- #16
OK sorry if anyone was waiting for this. After the flu I got a bacterial sinus infection so I've been sick for a month and have not felt like working on the Jeep. I'm finally back to normal and I finished the install of the battery tray today.
Props to Genesis off road for his installation video. It's excellent. Check it out if your considering installing the tray.
I'll go over what's different with my install.
After removing the tray you can easily access the PCR relay. I cut the connector off and left it plugged in the relay if I ever want to go back to stock. I then extended the wires with some heat shrink butt connectors. Next I wrapped the wires in heat resistant tape.
Here the tray is installed. Note the 3/4" plywood base used to compensate for the shorter group 86 batteries.
After this step its the same as the install video until you wire up the relays. I completely removed the ESS battery negative cable from the harness. Position 3 wire on the fuse box and both ends of the ESS battery cable I taped up and tucked away. Sorry No pictures of that. I made a new 2 gauge cable that goes from position 1 on the fuse box to the positive terminal of the new accessory battery. I used the cigar lighter fuse with a fuse tap to provide positive power to the new relay(Blue relay wire). It's hot in the accessory and run positions and off in the off position of the ignition switch. I wired the PCR trigger wires to the coil(White relay wire) and coil ground(Black relay wire) positions of the new relay. The red relay wire goes the the positive side of the Cole Hersee relay. The yellow relay wire is not used and I cut it out of the harness.I have a combiner diode between which is entirely pointless. The black wire on the diode goes to my switch panel and a battery boost switch. The accessory position on the Ignition switch provides exactly the same functionality that my battery boost switch on the MLC-6 does. So skip that entirely If you want to copy this setup. Wish i would have thought that out better. Live and learn.
Here it is all wired up. Note the IBS and factory ground are on the main battery.
Everything works as expected. Ignition off and the batteries are isolated. Ignition accessory or ignition on positions and the batteries are combined. I took it for a test drive and did 12 quick ESS stop starts with no issues so this should work for those of you having the 6 cycle limit problem but that might be fixed just by having the IBS on the main battery. I'm not sure how to verify that the batteries are isolated in an ESS stop. I guess I could run some long leads into the cab to test with my multimeter but I think its working properly.
Sorry it took me so long to get this done.
Props to Genesis off road for his installation video. It's excellent. Check it out if your considering installing the tray.
I'll go over what's different with my install.
After removing the tray you can easily access the PCR relay. I cut the connector off and left it plugged in the relay if I ever want to go back to stock. I then extended the wires with some heat shrink butt connectors. Next I wrapped the wires in heat resistant tape.
Here the tray is installed. Note the 3/4" plywood base used to compensate for the shorter group 86 batteries.
After this step its the same as the install video until you wire up the relays. I completely removed the ESS battery negative cable from the harness. Position 3 wire on the fuse box and both ends of the ESS battery cable I taped up and tucked away. Sorry No pictures of that. I made a new 2 gauge cable that goes from position 1 on the fuse box to the positive terminal of the new accessory battery. I used the cigar lighter fuse with a fuse tap to provide positive power to the new relay(Blue relay wire). It's hot in the accessory and run positions and off in the off position of the ignition switch. I wired the PCR trigger wires to the coil(White relay wire) and coil ground(Black relay wire) positions of the new relay. The red relay wire goes the the positive side of the Cole Hersee relay. The yellow relay wire is not used and I cut it out of the harness.I have a combiner diode between which is entirely pointless. The black wire on the diode goes to my switch panel and a battery boost switch. The accessory position on the Ignition switch provides exactly the same functionality that my battery boost switch on the MLC-6 does. So skip that entirely If you want to copy this setup. Wish i would have thought that out better. Live and learn.
Here it is all wired up. Note the IBS and factory ground are on the main battery.
Everything works as expected. Ignition off and the batteries are isolated. Ignition accessory or ignition on positions and the batteries are combined. I took it for a test drive and did 12 quick ESS stop starts with no issues so this should work for those of you having the 6 cycle limit problem but that might be fixed just by having the IBS on the main battery. I'm not sure how to verify that the batteries are isolated in an ESS stop. I guess I could run some long leads into the cab to test with my multimeter but I think its working properly.
Sorry it took me so long to get this done.
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