So you basically cut the top of the custom loop you fabricated and inserted a switch installed inside the JL? Or did you use a relay?I put in a kill switch on the fuel pump for theft deterrent and it's been simple and reliable. Didn't want to cut into the wire harness so took advantage of fuse block access. Started with an old fuse, using a file and saw blade to remove some of the upper plastic and fuse element, then soldered on wires that connected to an in-line fuse and the remote switch. Made sure to put the in-line fuse on the 12V 'hot' side to avoid a fire if something got damaged or shorted. The switch was rated at 15-20 amps and fairly heavy wire used as the pump draws significant current. Keep in mind if there is anything left to Murphy you can end up on the side of the road or worse.
Since then I've noticed that 'Fuse Extenders' are available on eBay, Amazon, etc. that might make it even simpler (if one can be found that fits the fuse box).
@Left Field am I wrong in that the fuse necessary "F04 – Fuel Pump MTR/FPCM
20 Amp Yellow – Micro" located in the fuse box near the battery, is a micro and I can't find any "micro" extensions available online. Looks like the smallest is the "mini".
Fuel pump relay is K02 in the PDCAnyone have any idea where the fuel pump relay is? Might just interrupt that circuit with a kill switch.
Post of the day, thanks for this info.I did a little more research on kill switch options. Interrupting the start button is intuitive and might well be the ideal solution but I'm a little nervous about messing with it because of potential complications with the remote start function and the RFID backup start feature. No idea if these are valid concerns.
Looking at the schematics, there were three circuits that seemed like decent alternates:
1) Fuel Injector power
2) Fuel Pump power
3) Starter solenoid power
For those intrepid enough to open up the wiring, all three circuits can be accessed under the PDC fuse board. There are four connectors that attach to the underside of the PDC fuse board:
Within each connector the pins are laid out in an 'A-B-C...' x '1-2-3...' grid.
Some info regarding each option below. Note that making mistakes is one of my primary features, so if proceeding, best verify the options using the schematics posted by @x7tristan here: [ Don't burn up that beautiful JL!! ]
https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/forum/threads/jeep-jl-wrangler-wiring-diagrams.19185/
1) Fuel Injector / Coil power
Connector C3, pin B4
Fuse: F70, 25 Amps
Wire size: 14 AWG (equiv.)
Wire color: Brown/yellow
Schematic: Fuses / Relay - ASD - [engine]
2) Fuel Pump Power
Connector C2, pin B5
Fuse: F04, 20 Amps
Wire size: 14 AWG (equiv.)
Wire color: Dark Blue / Orange
Schematic: Fuses / Relay - Miscellaneous [engine]
3) Starter Solenoid Power
Connector C1, Pin F2
Fuse F02, 40 Amps
Wire size: 13 AWG (equiv.)
Wire Color: Yellow / Grey
Schematic: Fuses / Relay - Miscellaneous [engine]
When opening the PDC on my '21 JLUR 392 I found that the fuses, connectors, wiring and colors appeared to match the schematics for the other listed engine platforms.
I haven't implemented a kill switch yet as I'm not 100% comfortable with hacking the wiring on a new vehicle, but if proceeding will probably lean towards the 'Starter Solenoid' option as it seems the simplest and least likely to mess with any computer monitoring or diagnostics. The down sides are that its a relatively difficult (short) wire to access in the PDC and that its fused for substantial current (probably requiring a 10AWG wire run with a beefy high amperage switch, or maybe a remote relay).