Front axle pinion nut...how to torque properly?

[Redbaron73]

I am installing new drive shafts and yokes. The rear and transfer case are simple to torque using the transfer case in 4l and ebrake engaged.

The front is not so easy due to the FAD.

My choices are:
1) pry bar in the yoke
2) torque extensions on my impact wrench
3) something I haven't thought of.


I am worried about nicking the yoke with a pry bar, and don't know how trust worthy a 160lb torque extension is. I usually run it with the 140 extension and then finish by hand.

Looking forward to others suggestions.

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[Gregj]

How about ignition on and engage 4L which will engage the FAD and hold the brakes? Large wrench (pipe or crescent) on the yoke?
Gregj

 

[Redbaron73]

How about ignition on and engage 4L which will engage the FAD and hold the brakes? Large wrench (pipe or crescent) on the yoke?
Gregj

Ignition on...smart!!!

Thanks

 

[chevymitchell]

I am installing new drive shafts and yokes. The rear and transfer case are simple to torque using the transfer case in 4l and ebrake engaged.

The front is not so easy due to the FAD.

My choices are:
1) pry bar in the yoke
2) torque extensions on my impact wrench
3) something I haven't thought of.


I am worried about nicking the yoke with a pry bar, and don't know how trust worthy a 160lb torque extension is. I usually run it with the 140 extension and then finish by hand.

Looking forward to others suggestions.

That front pinion nut has a very large torque range and it's not for getting the nut tight, it's for setting your bearing pre-load.

You can do this by hand with an impact, if you have one.

Run the nut on with the impact and keep going until there is zero movement in the flange. That is zero movement up, down, side to side, fwd and back. Once you have zero movement then stop. That's all there is to it. Don't worry about getting that nut to the max torque value.

If the preload was set at 145 lb/ft and you go to 160 lb/ft, you will increase the bearing pre-load and very well could burn up a set of bearings.

 

[word302]

That front pinion nut has a very large torque range and it's not for getting the nut tight, it's for setting your bearing pre-load.

You can do this by hand with an impact, if you have one.

Run the nut on with the impact and keep going until there is zero movement in the flange. That is zero movement up, down, side to side, fwd and back. Once you have zero movement then stop. That's all there is to it. Don't worry about getting that nut to the max torque value.

If the preload was set at 145 lb/ft and you go to 160 lb/ft, you will increase the bearing pre-load and very well could burn up a set of bearings.

Exactly this, hopefully you didn’t over-torque the rear. If you did you’re going to need to pull the carrier and pinion and replace the crush sleeve.

 

[limeade]

That front pinion nut has a very large torque range and it's not for getting the nut tight, it's for setting your bearing pre-load.

You can do this by hand with an impact, if you have one.

Run the nut on with the impact and keep going until there is zero movement in the flange. That is zero movement up, down, side to side, fwd and back. Once you have zero movement then stop. That's all there is to it. Don't worry about getting that nut to the max torque value.

If the preload was set at 145 lb/ft and you go to 160 lb/ft, you will increase the bearing pre-load and very well could burn up a set of bearings.

Exactly this, hopefully you didn’t over-torque the rear. If you did you’re going to need to pull the carrier and pinion and replace the crush sleeve.

This is exactly how I did mine and worked like a charm. There's a few Youtube videos showing this method. Once I got the yoke on pretty good with the impact and could still feel a little movement, it took just a few more very brief trigger pulls to get it with no movement. I don't know if I was hearing or feeling things, but it stopped at the exact point and I knew it before I even tried checking the yoke.

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