Fox TS Steering Stabilizer on Stock steering

[COHiker]

Ended up installing a rockjock relocation bracket and clearance is easy peasy now. Might have been able to get there with rotating and getting it just perfect but bracket got here early enough and I like that I didn't have to drill out the traclbar bracket. Overall gives just a little more room and keeps the stabilizer safe.

Also helped with the bump steer that I had going on so happy with the install overall.

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[gato]

@COHiker

This is an old thread, but I have the Synergy Stabilizer relocation kit (stud and clamp) with stock tie rod. I have tried 3 different stabilizers and they all rub and push the tierod down at full passenger lock.

This was actually what caused my Jeep to get some shimmy and wobble and having to constantly retorque the passenger side tierod ball joint nut.

I tried rotating the clamp back. I tried putting a couple of washers on the tierod clamp to elevate the shock, and I even tried filling the shock body (don't laugh too hard) and reverse direction.

Nothing helped. Synergy relocation kit only works well with their 1.5" diameter tierod or other aftermarket ones.

So I ordered the RockJock bracket before I found this thread - I'm waiting for it to arrive.

I'm glad to see that the OP solved his issue with this bracket. I hope it solves mine. I'm now worried that I've been putting vertical force on my tierod end for 8,000 miles. New AEV stabilizer made all shimmy and wobble disappear, but maybe the damage is done. Very disappointed with Synergy. There clearly is not enough clearance with that bolt on the JL with stock steering.

 

[cactusflier]

@COHiker

This is an old thread, but I have the Synergy Stabilizer relocation kit (stud and clamp) with stock tie rod. I have tried 3 different stabilizers and they all rub and push the tierod down at full passenger lock.

This was actually what caused my Jeep to get some shimmy and wobble and having to constantly retorque the passenger side tierod ball joint nut.

I tried rotating the clamp back. I tried putting a couple of washers on the tierod clamp to elevate the shock, and I even tried filling the shock body (don't laugh too hard) and reverse direction.

Nothing helped. Synergy relocation kit only works well with their 1.5" diameter tierod or other aftermarket ones.

So I ordered the RockJock bracket before I found this thread - I'm waiting for it to arrive.

I'm glad to see that the OP solved his issue with this bracket. I hope it solves mine. I'm now worried that I've been putting vertical force on my tierod end for 8,000 miles. New AEV stabilizer made all shimmy and wobble disappear, but maybe the damage is done. Very disappointed with Synergy. There clearly is not enough clearance with that bolt on the JL with stock steering.

I concur with the fitment problems. I have tried both the Synergy and Yeti relocation kits and neither one of them will allow clearance of the stabilizer and OEM tie rod in full lock.. The tie rod floats up a good half inch at full lock. The passenger end of the OEM tie rod is a forged piece that actually curves upward about half an inch or so before it meets the horizontal portion of the tie rod. I tried all the suggestions that everyone has thrown out about rotating this or that and looked at all their pictures (all of which are shown with after market tie rods). On the Yeti, the bolt that attaches the stabilizer to the Yeti bracket won't even clear the tie rod at full lock, even if the bolt is turned upside down. Picture shows Yeti bracket installed and tie rod at full lock with only 4 mm of clearance. The bolt that is suppose to sit there extends much beyond that or turn bolt upside down and bolt head is thicker than 4mm.

 

[Headbarcode]

I concur with the fitment problems. I have tried both the Synergy and Yeti relocation kits and neither one of them will allow clearance of the stabilizer and OEM tie rod in full lock.. The tie rod floats up a good half inch at full lock. The passenger end of the OEM tie rod is a forged piece that actually curves upward about half an inch or so before it meets the horizontal portion of the tie rod. I tried all the suggestions that everyone has thrown out about rotating this or that and looked at all their pictures (all of which are shown with after market tie rods). On the Yeti, the bolt that attaches the stabilizer to the Yeti bracket won't even clear the tie rod at full lock, even if the bolt is turned upside down. Picture shows Yeti bracket installed and tie rod at full lock with only 4 mm of clearance. The bolt that is suppose to sit there extends much beyond that or turn bolt upside down and bolt head is thicker than 4mm.

I suspect that the factory tie rod rides further back towards the axle, and the aftermarket rod ends are longer to push the bar further forward. I'll have to remember to pull both my stock one and previous Steersmarts version out of the shipping container at work, so I can verify if that's the case or not.

 

[gato]

I concur with the fitment problems. I have tried both the Synergy and Yeti relocation kits and neither one of them will allow clearance of the stabilizer and OEM tie rod in full lock.. The tie rod floats up a good half inch at full lock. The passenger end of the OEM tie rod is a forged piece that actually curves upward about half an inch or so before it meets the horizontal portion of the tie rod. I tried all the suggestions that everyone has thrown out about rotating this or that and looked at all their pictures (all of which are shown with after market tie rods). On the Yeti, the bolt that attaches the stabilizer to the Yeti bracket won't even clear the tie rod at full lock, even if the bolt is turned upside down. Picture shows Yeti bracket installed and tie rod at full lock with only 4 mm of clearance. The bolt that is suppose to sit there extends much beyond that or turn bolt upside down and bolt head is thicker than 4mm.

Yes. I have wasted more time on dealing with this then the time it took to install my lift kit. I thought for sure that had to be a way to avoid the rub. But not. It's all poor engineering, and companies selling stuff they don't test.

The thing is when I was doing the stabilizer relocation I had the front axle on jack stands to help test fit right and left full lock. The problem won't show up there, but it will show up with weight on the wheels.

And the thing is the only aftermarket tierod that fits a synergy clamp AND can be adjusted without loosening the tierod clamp is the Synergy one. [The Currie/Rockjock one has an adjuster like the factory one, but says the diameter is 42 mm, the largest Synergy clamp is 40-41mm (1 and 5/8th). Not sure that calmp would work. If so I'd buy that tie rod. Else, normal alignment shop/tech would not know how to adjust toe.

 

[gato]

Here is how it looks with a monotube or twin-tube non TS stabilizer. Hits stock tierod with AEV, Teraflex and Factory OEM. RockJock braket on the way to fix it. Will ditch the AEV trackbar bolt, but keep the tierod clamp.

 

[KNN]

In case this helps anyone, the Clayton steering stabilizer bracket is compatible w/ stock tie rod and Fox 2.0 ATS stabilizer. I had to drill a 3/8” hole for a second bolt but everything fits securely. It clears when turning full passenger as well.

This might be short lived though as I see Steer Smarts Tie Rod and Drag Link in my very near future.

 

[blackJLURubi]

Mine is extremely close to the track bar and tie rod at full lock passenger. Any recommendations?

 

[COHiker]

@blackJLURubi

I couldn't get it to clear with the synergy post. Had to get a relocation bracket to get it all to fit without rubbing.

 

[blackJLURubi]

@blackJLURubi

I couldn't get it to clear with the synergy post. Had to get a relocation bracket to get it all to fit without rubbing.

You still using the rock jock bracket ?

 

[COHiker]

@blackJLURubi

I couldn't get it to clear with the synergy post. Had to get a relocation bracket to get it all to fit without rubbing.

Yes sir, still using and going strong. No issues even with 37s and dropping off some 6 foot plus waterfalls in moab

 

[Gripster]

Very helpful thread. Thank you.

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