Fox ATS Race Series 2.0 Steering Stabilizer (JK or JL)?

[JMP]

The last xr I lifted was a 2.5 rk and I left the front bumps as is, you can cycle the suspension to be sure, ( which i always recommend) but I wouldn’t worry about finding something in writing, I always check everything out hands on….

I’ll try… limited resources

I can probably go side/side with axle, not sure how to test linear compression tho.

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[Roky]

I’ll try… limited resources

I can probably go side/side with axle, not sure how to test linear compression tho.

I’m pretty sure you’re good, if for some reason it did make contact it would not be catastrophic. Where you want to look for clearance is the radiator bracket under the cross member over the tie rod where the clamp will be…… shoot me a pic once it’s installed…..

 

[JMP]

Thanks Roky! You are the man. It’ll be a few weeks before I get back and can knock it out. Excited to get this beotch “finished”.

 

[Roky]

Thanks Roky! You are the man. It’ll be a few weeks before I get back and can knock it out. Excited to get this beotch “finished”.

Sure man, anytime….

 

[JMP]

Sure man, anytime….

After I ordered the JK ATS, I got home and took measurements. With my current bumps, there isn’t room to clear.

Tie rod to radiator bolt:
8.75”

ATS height above tie rod:
4.5”

Available uptravel:
4.625”

It looks like I order to miss the radiator at full squish, I have 3 options:

- Switch from ATS to TS
- Add bump
- Leave as is until I smash it then decide

A steering stabilizer seems like a silly reason to sacrifice up-travel. Leaning toward TS or bashing my current one.

 

[Roky]

After I ordered the JK ATS, I got home and took measurements. With my current bumps, there isn’t room to clear.

Tie rod to radiator bolt:
8.75”

ATS height above tie rod:
4.5”

Available uptravel:
4.625”

It looks like I order to miss the radiator at full squish, I have 3 options:

- Switch from ATS to TS
- Add bump
- Leave as is until I smash it then decide

A steering stabilizer seems like a silly reason to sacrifice up-travel. Leaning toward TS or bashing my current one.

You can spin the resi to change orientation so you might be able to find a position it will work…how are you determining your amount of up travel ? Please show your work, lol….

 

[JMP]

Up-travel:
- Measured jounce tower to front bump stop. The XR bumps are long enough for my 35s and I don’t really want to add any more.

Tie rod
- Assumed the tie rod would move vertically the same distance as the axle since it’s connected at both ends.

I don’t have an auto shop or a forklift or any way to measure flex other than finding a rock on a trail.

I assumed worst case would be a hard hit filling compressing to the bumps… that’d slam into the radiator.

I guess the XR jounce are 1 3/8” longer than Rubi, so this kinda makes sense after taking the measurements.

What am I doing wrong?

 

[Roky]

Up-travel:
- Measured jounce tower to front bump stop. The XR bumps are long enough for my 35s and I don’t really want to add any more.

Tie rod
- Assumed the tie rod would move vertically the same distance as the axle since it’s connected at both ends.

I don’t have an auto shop or a forklift or any way to measure flex other than finding a rock on a trail.

I assumed worst case would be a hard hit filling compressing to the bumps… that’d slam into the radiator.

I guess the XR jounce are 1 3/8” longer than Rubi, so this kinda makes sense after taking the measurements.

What am I doing wrong?

Not doing anything wrong, I just wanted to make sure we’re on the same page. According to your numbers, you have a 3/8” difference. This is at a hard enough hit to bottom out the jounce, that’s like getting airborne and landing on the front wheels….. you know best, you’re hands on, I can’t see anything ( no pics) so all I can do is share my own experiences, which are not apples to apples all the time…

My resi got thunked in the head by my track bar on the trail when stuffed and turning passenger. It wasn’t a hard hit, and only happened in a certain scenario, so I chose to keep running it….

 

[Roky]

 

[JMP]

Hopefully my last dumb question

The Clayton bracket instructions have me installing with the axle only lifted, and installing so the shaft is centered when the wheels are centered.

The Fox instructions emphasize installing at full droop, and having 1/4" of shaft exposed with the wheels full to one side.

Which is the more correct way to install in your experience? These directions are completely contradictory.

 

[Roky]

Hopefully my last dumb question

The Clayton bracket instructions have me installing with the axle only lifted, and installing so the shaft is centered when the wheels are centered.

The Fox instructions emphasize installing at full droop, and having 1/4" of shaft exposed with the wheels full to one side.

Which is the more correct way to install in your experience? These directions are completely contradictory.

Install shock on axle side, with the wheels straight equal out the through shaft on both sides of the shock body, should be about 4 ish inches on both sides. Tighten the tie rod clamp, turn wheels to full lock both ways to make sure that the stabilizer isn’t bottoming out, and you’re hitting the wheel stops….

 

[JMP]

Install shock on axle side, with the wheels straight equal out the through shaft on both sides of the shock body, should be about 4 ish inches on both sides. Tighten the tie rod clamp, turn wheels to full lock both ways to make sure that the stabilizer isn’t bottoming out, and you’re hitting the wheel stops….

At full droop or at ride height? Does that even matter? Wondering why Fox insists on full droop.

 

[Roky]

At full droop or at ride height? Does that even matter? Wondering why Fox insists on full droop.

On the ground……..It’s easier to replace shocks while they’re extended, but I never use a lift to install a ss……

 

[JLUHT]

I lifted my front end during install because the Fox warnings were very intimidating

 

[zouch]

wow; all this for a steering stabilizer?
so complicated,..

i did mine with the J**p on the ground in the street out in front of the house.

Hopefully my last dumb question

The Clayton bracket instructions have me installing with the axle only lifted, and installing so the shaft is centered when the wheels are centered.

The Fox instructions emphasize installing at full droop, and having 1/4" of shaft exposed with the wheels full to one side.

Which is the more correct way to install in your experience? These directions are completely contradictory.

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