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Ford Raptor rear shocks on JL!!!

Moto_21

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Thanks for the specs on your shocks and for the suggested input! That’s for the rear, correct? And how many inches of travel do you have on the rear? That .08 on the rebound is probably equivalent to what I have since these are bypass shocks. The bypass portion has free bleed so that’s why this piston has no free bleed. This is my second time revalving internal bypass shocks. It takes a lot of thought process to figure out how the oils flowing through each stage and how one thing is going to affect the other. The way this shock came I don’t think the compression valving opened up at all until the bypass ports start getting closed off.
Yeah thats rear, i have front valved same way too because of the angle difference on the shocks. The rear feels softer. It definitely is a mind fuck haha. Id venture to say you are correct. Im just worried lightening it up too much is going to make it blow faster through the stroke and make the bump zone feel even harsher if that makes sense
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Moto_21

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Im about 1000lb unsprung weight in each rear corner of the jeep, id be curious to know what the raptor is if its lighter or heavier. Id probably say the jeep has more weight transfer to the rear than the raptor making it feel softer
 
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Glamisfan

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The raptor should be about 6500 pounds. But it’s a pick up so the rear is quite a bit lighter than the front. I’m honestly quite surprised at how much a Jeep, even the four-door, exhibit weight transfer. I like it! Reminds me of my pre-runner I built.
 

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Oh and at ride height im about 6-1/2” of shaft exposed in the rear.

After the valving changes i made, with the stiffer spring, i was able to keep it out of the bumpstops on fairly good hits. Still havent got to test it on rollers or whoops yet. Its fairly stiff. But i still think ill have to plug a bleed hole
 

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Man this is an awesome thread, thank you! I've been working on planning a "max travel" setup for my JLU and I came to Bilstein 7100 short body + 2" hydro bumps for the front (= 11.5" travel), but the rear didn't work out nearly as well using the stock mount locations, and hydro bumps were going to be complicated... this looks like I can use raptor rear shocks instead and fix both issues.

I was planning to use a true 2" single rate coil on both ends (probably Rusty's), since it looked like it should have the length to accommodate the longer shocks and shouldn't go solid before full compression.
 

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Moto_21

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Man this is an awesome thread, thank you! I've been working on planning a "max travel" setup for my JLU and I came to Bilstein 7100 short body + 2" hydro bumps for the front (= 11.5" travel), but the rear didn't work out nearly as well using the stock mount locations, and hydro bumps were going to be complicated... this looks like I can use raptor rear shocks instead and fix both issues.

I was planning to use a true 2" single rate coil on both ends (probably Rusty's), since it looked like it should have the length to accommodate the longer shocks and shouldn't go solid before full compression.
Id go with https://www.kartek.com/parts/fox-ra...-hose-remote-reservoir-with-lsc-adjuster.html
 

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Man this is an awesome thread, thank you! I've been working on planning a "max travel" setup for my JLU and I came to Bilstein 7100 short body + 2" hydro bumps for the front (= 11.5" travel), but the rear didn't work out nearly as well using the stock mount locations, and hydro bumps were going to be complicated... this looks like I can use raptor rear shocks instead and fix both issues.

I was planning to use a true 2" single rate coil on both ends (probably Rusty's), since it looked like it should have the length to accommodate the longer shocks and shouldn't go solid before full compression.
Longer travel than stock, and will probably only require an inch bumpstop or less depending on tire size
 

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Longer travel than stock, and will probably only require an inch bumpstop or less depending on tire size
I contemplated those as well... the 7100's didn't require any bump (collapsed 16.1) and slightly more travel vs 1" of bump with the fox. I don't necessarily mind adding extra bump, but with stock bump and 2" springs I would end up around 6-6.5" up and 5" down, which seemed like a reasonable travel split. To keep the same split and add bump I'd end up with a bit more lift, which meant adding more parts to the suspension (trackbar, LCA's, etc) to keep things centered and geo in check.

Is the adjustable LSC and Fox vs Bilstein a better setup?
 

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I contemplated those as well... the 7100's didn't require any bump (collapsed 16.1) and slightly more travel vs 1" of bump with the fox. I don't necessarily mind adding extra bump, but with stock bump and 2" springs I would end up around 6-6.5" up and 5" down, which seemed like a reasonable travel split. To keep the same split and add bump I'd end up with a bit more lift, which meant adding more parts to the suspension (trackbar, LCA's, etc) to keep things centered and geo in check.

Is the adjustable LSC and Fox vs Bilstein a better setup?
True, if youre going stock height route then that would work, are you adding bigger tires? The raptors are a good idea for the internal bump it gives if you dont want to put hydros. The low speed adjustment is pretty nice to have on the foxes depending on weight added and people it will help control it more. Both shocks are good, depends if you want some adjustment. You cant go wrong with either id say
 
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Glamisfan

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Those Rustys 2 inch springs are probably what I’m gonna wind up with too. I was trying to get as little lift as possible but I just can’t do it with the stock springs and spacers and keep the springs seated at full droop. I’d really like real bypass shocks on here, but I doubt there’s 12 inch stroke bypass shocks that are short enough to fit with a low lift. I searched around a little bit yesterday and everything I found was too long for my taste. Plus I can’t get $3000 shock purchase pass my wife. 400 bucks here or 800 bucks there I can do! LOL

i’m still playing around with different valving set ups in my head. My rebuild kits should be here by the end of the week so hopefully next weekend I’ll get the pair re valved and rebuilt and installed on the back.
 

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Moto_21

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I contemplated those as well... the 7100's didn't require any bump (collapsed 16.1) and slightly more travel vs 1" of bump with the fox. I don't necessarily mind adding extra bump, but with stock bump and 2" springs I would end up around 6-6.5" up and 5" down, which seemed like a reasonable travel split. To keep the same split and add bump I'd end up with a bit more lift, which meant adding more parts to the suspension (trackbar, LCA's, etc) to keep things centered and geo in check.

Is the adjustable LSC and Fox vs Bilstein a better setup?
To be honest the stock parts are so weak id upgrade all those parts regardless whether you go up higher or not. Plus it will give you the option to go higher or not if you decided too. Thats just personal preference specially how hard it is on everything going fast.
 

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I
Those Rustys 2 inch springs are probably what I’m gonna wind up with too. I was trying to get as little lift as possible but I just can’t do it with the stock springs and spacers and keep the springs seated at full droop. I’d really like real bypass shocks on here, but I doubt there’s 12 inch stroke bypass shocks that are short enough to fit with a low lift. I searched around a little bit yesterday and everything I found was too long for my taste. Plus I can’t get $3000 shock purchase pass my wife. 400 bucks here or 800 bucks there I can do! LOL

i’m still playing around with different valving set ups in my head. My rebuild kits should be here by the end of the week so hopefully next weekend I’ll get the pair re valved and rebuilt and installed on the back.
I feel like im going crazy trying to come up with different valving and stuff in my head haha. I love adjusting my coilovers but its such a major pain in the ass i try my best to get as close as i can first try...4 times later. Im getting there haha
 

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Those Rustys 2 inch springs are probably what I’m gonna wind up with too. I was trying to get as little lift as possible but I just can’t do it with the stock springs and spacers and keep the springs seated at full droop. I’d really like real bypass shocks on here, but I doubt there’s 12 inch stroke bypass shocks that are short enough to fit with a low lift. I searched around a little bit yesterday and everything I found was too long for my taste. Plus I can’t get $3000 shock purchase pass my wife. 400 bucks here or 800 bucks there I can do! LOL

i’m still playing around with different valving set ups in my head. My rebuild kits should be here by the end of the week so hopefully next weekend I’ll get the pair re valved and rebuilt and installed on the back.
If I did it again i think id run external bypasses all 4 corners
 

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Those Rustys 2 inch springs are probably what I’m gonna wind up with too. I was trying to get as little lift as possible but I just can’t do it with the stock springs and spacers and keep the springs seated at full droop. I’d really like real bypass shocks on here, but I doubt there’s 12 inch stroke bypass shocks that are short enough to fit with a low lift. I searched around a little bit yesterday and everything I found was too long for my taste. Plus I can’t get $3000 shock purchase pass my wife. 400 bucks here or 800 bucks there I can do! LOL

i’m still playing around with different valving set ups in my head. My rebuild kits should be here by the end of the week so hopefully next weekend I’ll get the pair re valved and rebuilt and installed on the back.
You could do a 10” 2.0 bypass.
 

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To be honest the stock parts are so weak id upgrade all those parts regardless whether you go up higher or not. Plus it will give you the option to go higher or not if you decided too. Thats just personal preference specially how hard it is on everything going fast.
Thanks for the feedback. which parts would you tackle first? I would figure trackbar and control arms; are the control arm mounts up to the task?

Regarding tires-based on location and terrain (going fast through blown out dirt roads, no rocks other than gravel), I'm trying to stick with 33" since I can get an SL carcass and drop ~60lbs of unsprung weight. If those aren't sufficient once everything else is upgraded, I'll start going up in size.
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