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Ford Raptor rear shocks on JL!!!

Moto_21

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Thanks for the feedback. which parts would you tackle first? I would figure trackbar and control arms; are the control arm mounts up to the task?

Regarding tires-based on location and terrain (going fast through blown out dirt roads, no rocks other than gravel), I'm trying to stick with 33" since I can get an SL carcass and drop ~60lbs of unsprung weight. If those aren't sufficient once everything else is upgraded, I'll start going up in size.
Track bars first, then id start with just the lower control arms since those can be targets to get hit by stuff. The mounts are fine unless you are grinding them on rocks, but doesnt sound like you will be. This is just me speaking in the route i would go, and the route we are taking my girls jeep.

you can get by with the stock stuff just fine staying with the 33s and just upgrade as needed. I just like to upgrade before the need arises.

youll be good with whichever shocks you pick too, it is just nice to have the option to be able to adjust the shocks a little before needing to dive into valving.
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KansasJL

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Man this is an awesome thread, thank you! I've been working on planning a "max travel" setup for my JLU and I came to Bilstein 7100 short body + 2" hydro bumps for the front (= 11.5" travel), but the rear didn't work out nearly as well using the stock mount locations, and hydro bumps were going to be complicated... this looks like I can use raptor rear shocks instead and fix both issues.

I was planning to use a true 2" single rate coil on both ends (probably Rusty's), since it looked like it should have the length to accommodate the longer shocks and shouldn't go solid before full compression.
do you have a part number for the blistein 7100’s?
this thread is right up the alley of want I am wanting to do.
 

PatrickR

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do you have a part number for the blistein 7100’s?
this thread is right up the alley of want I am wanting to do.
The part number is based on the valving, so keep that in mind with what I'm posting. The valving I came to as a starting point (and adjust from here), was 255/70 front and 275/78 rear. This was based on a light jeep with the rusty's 2" springs, aimed at a Jeepspeed kind of setup.

The front shock p/n is AK7112SBB, which is the 16.10" collapsed length 12" travel (well, 11.5") shock. The rear is AK7112SBA, this is the same length, but you'd have to use 1" shock extenders to get all the travel you paid for (it might be 1.25" or 1.5"... I've forgotten). On the rear, I do think I'll go with the Raptor shocks, since it fits a lot more neatly into the required space and is internally bumped.
 

KansasJL

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Thanks! trying to get the max travel with the least amount of lift is looking like more of a chore then I expected It to be.
 

PatrickR

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Thanks! trying to get the max travel with the least amount of lift is looking like more of a chore then I expected It to be.
Really, if you're trying to do it as easily as possible, you could just swap springs to a true 2" spring like the rusty's one I mentioned, and the above shocks(adding the shock extensions to the rear). The 2" lift is almost built into the JL. Oh and you could add mopar LCA's for $80 or so and get the geo pretty close. None of that would take all that long to do.

However, There are ways that it could be improved, like hydro bumps, beefed up components, and shock valving to get it just the way you want....
 

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I got both Raptor shocks rebuilt and re valved today. I‘m still running them of the back. Both had 1 of 2 small Allen bleed screws frozen on the bearing housing so I had to order new ones Bearing housings. Kartek and Schmidity are good places to buy parts for them. I changed my valving just a little. It should take me about an hour to re valve them in the future. So far they feel pretty good. I’m going to the desert tomorrow for my first Jeep outing with other Jeep’s. And then to King of the Hammers on Sunday. I’ll let you know how it works!

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Moto_21

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I got both Raptor shocks rebuilt and re valved today. I‘m still running them of the back. Both had 1 of 2 small Allen bleed screws frozen on the bearing housing so I had to order new ones Bearing housings. Kartek and Schmidity are good places to buy parts for them. I changed my valving just a little. It should take me about an hour to re valve them in the future. So far they feel pretty good. I’m going to the desert tomorrow for my first Jeep outing with other Jeep’s. And then to King of the Hammers on Sunday. I’ll let you know how it works!

Jeep Wrangler JL Ford Raptor rear shocks on JL!!! 18257162-18B3-4BC5-9362-9E3B939AA03C
I like it! Looks pretty decent to me cant wait to hear how it does
 

beaups

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Im about 1000lb unsprung weight in each rear corner of the jeep, id be curious to know what the raptor is if its lighter or heavier. Id probably say the jeep has more weight transfer to the rear than the raptor making it feel softer
1000lb in unsprung weight in each corner? You running concrete tires and solid lead wheels?
 
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Glamisfan

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So a little update. I spent 10 hours and drove 90 miles in the desert on Saturday and then drove 2 1/2 hours to king of the hammers yesterday. It does pretty good like it is. I think the rear which is what I have the raptor shocks on is better than the stock Rubicon shocks. But it’s still not soft enough for me. I had a Ford super duty that I removed the rear leaf springs on and built a four link plus pan hard rod just like our jeeps have for the rear suspension and I had airbags off of a big rig and 16 inch stroke king bypass shocks. If my memory is correct I had .012 compression shims with a flutter and .010 rebound shims in it. And that rear suspension road like any old-school Cadillac. My quick reference on how my valving is doing is to go through some dips down my street and then go over large speed bumps at the Costco parking lot. My super duty over those speed bumps was absolute perfection. The bed stayed level and the axle and 38 x 15 50 x 20“ tires and wheels stepped up and over that speedbump like it wasn’t even there. Whereas the jeep right now takes those speed bumps better than the stock Rubicon rear, but it’s nowhere near what my Super Duty was. I talked to a Fox guy at KOh and his suggestion was to go with a straight .015 stack on compression. But I think that’ll still be too stiff for my liking. These are internal bypass shocks which work basically like an external bypass shock. I think either .015 stack with .012s on the first two low-speed shims or a straight 15 stack with a flutter would get me where I want to be? And since the flutter worked on my super duty, I think that’ll be my next step. But, I really want to get springs so I can use all of the shock travel and front shocks before I push this thing too hard. It’s not gonna be fun when the rear shocks are 3 times better than the stock front ones. Little long-winded and if there’s any errors this is speech to text. I’ll keep you all apprised of my continuing progress and at some point I’m going to update the OP with all the pertinent information so it’s easier for someone to find in the future.
 

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Moto_21

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Im not sure about a flutter on a bypass, id think it would be too soft, but worth a try. Maybe like a 12 x1.6 12x1.4 8x1.1 then a stack of 15s and leave the last one off (the .020)? Or try 10x1.6 12x1.4 rest 15s?
 

Moto_21

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I enjoy this thread its all a learning curve for me too lol
 

Overland Productions

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I got both Raptor shocks rebuilt and re valved today. I‘m still running them of the back. Both had 1 of 2 small Allen bleed screws frozen on the bearing housing so I had to order new ones Bearing housings. Kartek and Schmidity are good places to buy parts for them. I changed my valving just a little. It should take me about an hour to re valve them in the future. So far they feel pretty good. I’m going to the desert tomorrow for my first Jeep outing with other Jeep’s. And then to King of the Hammers on Sunday. I’ll let you know how it works!

Jeep Wrangler JL Ford Raptor rear shocks on JL!!! 18257162-18B3-4BC5-9362-9E3B939AA03C
dude! You're a badass if you tune those shocks and go bombing through the desert on them!! Tear it up!
 
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Glamisfan

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Im not sure about a flutter on a bypass, id think it would be too soft, but worth a try. Maybe like a 12 x1.6 12x1.4 8x1.1 then a stack of 15s and leave the last one off (the .020)? Or try 10x1.6 12x1.4 rest 15s?
I’ve thought about doing something like .010x1.6 .012x1.4 then .015’s, but I’ve never heard of a pro tuner doing that, so I never have. Anyone else done that?

The last shim (.80x.020) is locked in place and doesn’t flex at all. I’m using two .8 shims to make up for the large ones I took off. I wanted to make sure that the lock nut didn’t bottom out before tightening. And also to keep the large thick washer from becoming a rate plate.

I’ve never heard of someone fluttering a bypass shock, but it worked for me. I should mention that I’m going for a very soft suspension that will still control the big hits. Most people would consider what I’m going for too soft.

I try to get any good information out of people that tune shocks for a living, but they are always so damn tight lipped! I did have 1 shock tuner recently tell me that he flutters rebound stacks sometimes, which I never would have thought of. I still can wrap my head around how that would work!
 

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They are a 2.5 with upper and lower bypass. Piggyback rear and remote front. Have not taken apart for internal info. They are brand new take off's. Just making spacers and bushings for mounting now.
Fronts are :
15.750 - 23.750
Rears are :
17.750 - 25.750
Super jealous you found some Mojave take off shocks, I have been keeping an eye out for some in my local marketplace. I feel like it’s going to be an impossible find.
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