Flashing rear locker light... bad hall effect sensor? Jeep won't warranty, part not available for puchase!

[2Wheel-Lee]

Since the sensor doesn't have a programmable chip in it, what's this calibration you're talking about?

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[fixbroke]

Since the sensor doesn't have a programmable chip in it, what's this calibration you're talking about?

It does, if you look at my pics from the disassembled sensor - the hall chip itself is probably the programmable element. I'm pretty sure the third, unused pin in the connector is used for programming.

 

[Lou_JLU]

It does, if you look at my pics from the disassembled sensor - the hall chip itself is probably the programmable element. I'm pretty sure the third, unused pin in the connector is used for programming.

I'm thinking: Pin 1: Power in, Pin 2: Pwr Return, Pin 3: Sensor signal Out.

 

[Gorilla57]

Not sure why the sensor has to be calibrated. 2 different people on here have swapped out their malfunctioning sensors with new ones and it worked just fine.

 

[fixbroke]

I'm thinking: Pin 1: Power in, Pin 2: Pwr Return, Pin 3: Sensor signal Out.

There are three pins on the sensor, but only the two outer pins are connected to the Jeep wiring harness. It works as a current limiting device. Voltage is supplied to the sensor, and depending on the magnetic flux it senses, a variable current is output (amperes, not volts).

The fact that they bothered adding the third pin to the housing connector means that it must be used somewhere in the manufacturing process, probably a calibration step.

 

[fixbroke]

I got my sensor back from my friend after zapping it, but the patient wasn't revived by the defibrillation. The continuity between pins is gone (good), and there is still a connection between the pins and the hall chip (good), but I'm still getting the dash error (bad).

I guess I'm getting a Z Locker OEM.

 

[wibornz]

On a good note, the Z Automotive Z Locker OEM works as advertised and I am not having any issues with it.

Z Locker OEM

 

[2Wheel-Lee]

On a good note, the Z Automotive Z Locker OEM works as advertised and I am not having any issues with it.

Z Locker OEM

I'm tempted to buy one of those to keep in my tool bag, in case I'm on a long trip, and one of my locker sensor dies.

 

[SwissSteph]

I'm tempted to buy one of those to keep in my tool bag, in case I'm on a long trip, and one of my locker sensor dies.

That's exactly what I did... despite the rather high price of this cable.

Which is still incredible, absolutely not normal, for a new car (for mine with few kilometers) and at this price!

 

[2Wheel-Lee]

Figures...I drove my JL this morning around town, and all was fine. I drove it this afternoon, and the rear locker light was flashing from the moment I started the engine. I pulled over and did some tight turns, and the locker was not engaged. I put it in 4lo and engaged the locker, and it engaged (light stopped flashing and stayed on). I tried to disengage it and it wouldn't disengage, but the light was flashing. I put it back in 2hi and started driving with it engaged. At the next stop light, I shut off the engine. The locker disengaged (I made a turn at the light), but the light was still flashing. Sigh...looks like I'll be buying two of the Z Lockers. One for the rear now, and one for the front when/if it needs it.

 

[fixbroke]

Figures...I drove my JL this morning around town, and all was fine. I drove it this afternoon, and the rear locker light was flashing from the moment I started the engine. I pulled over and did some tight turns, and the locker was not engaged. I put it in 4lo and engaged the locker, and it engaged (light stopped flashing and stayed on). I tried to disengage it and it wouldn't disengage, but the light was flashing. I put it back in 2hi and started driving with it engaged. At the next stop light, I shut off the engine. The locker disengaged (I made a turn at the light), but the light was still flashing. Sigh...looks like I'll be buying two of the Z Lockers. One for the rear now, and one for the front when/if it needs it.

Sounds exactly like my failure. You probably have oil in your sensor. My condolences and welcome to the club!

 

[SwissSteph]

Figures...I drove my JL this morning around town, and all was fine. I drove it this afternoon, and the rear locker light was flashing from the moment I started the engine. I pulled over and did some tight turns, and the locker was not engaged. I put it in 4lo and engaged the locker, and it engaged (light stopped flashing and stayed on). I tried to disengage it and it wouldn't disengage, but the light was flashing. I put it back in 2hi and started driving with it engaged. At the next stop light, I shut off the engine. The locker disengaged (I made a turn at the light), but the light was still flashing. Sigh...looks like I'll be buying two of the Z Lockers. One for the rear now, and one for the front when/if it needs it.

I read that only one cable is required. Put it on the back. Can anyone confirm that?

 

[fixbroke]

I read that only one cable is required. Put it on the back. Can anyone confirm that?

You need one for each failed sensor. However, the front should take a lot more time before it fails since the front axle is used so infrequently and at lower speeds. It may even last the life of the vehicle. Personally, I wouldn't bother carrying a spare Z locker for the front axle.

I also potted my front sensor with RTV to keep it from failing. I'll post a how-to some time soon showing how I did it.

 

[SwissSteph]

You need one for each failed sensor. However, the front should take a lot more time before it fails since the front axle is used so infrequently and at lower speeds. It may even last the life of the vehicle. Personally, I wouldn't bother carrying a spare Z locker for the front axle.

I also potted my front sensor with RTV to keep it from failing. I'll post a how-to some time soon showing how I did it.

Thank you for your response

 

[BSw]

Had the same issue, installed the Zautomotive cable today and issue is gone. If you're still in warranty and didn't regear the dealer will swap your axle, otherwise the cable is the best fix until a new sensor becomes available

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