First time in 4x4...how do I go into 4L?

[robaw]

Now I'm just confused. My transfer case shifter looks like this, apparently this video is from some other version of Jeep

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[kkuntz01]

The easiest and smoothest way, roll a little bit, like 2mph, slip transmission into N, and the Tcase will slide into 4L with ease. Much tougher when standing still.

^^^^This. Get the Jeep rolling at a few miles per hour (typically 3-5), slip it in neutral, then pull the lever to drop it into 4LO. I've had to follow this procedure on 3 or our JK's, a '11 Grand Cherokee and our '14 Ram 2500 (the two later of which have the electronically controlled transfer case selector).

Don't ever try forcing the transfer case into 4LO while at a dead stop or you run the risk of breaking the clip that holds the cable to the transfer case linkage. I had this happen on my first JK and it was not fun trying to zip to the clip to the linkage so we could drive the Jeep for the rest of our trip.

 

[OkieMizzou]

Why not read the owners manual?!

 

[BillArnett]

I agree that it works much better when moving at 2-3 mph. But if you’re just coasting you run the risk of running out of momentum before getting the Tcase shifted completely. What I usually do is find a spot with a bit of a slope so that if I get stuck with the Tcase in neutral I can roll a little either forward or back.

 

[marjamr]

In my opinion it’s best to try to anticipate the situation and shift into 4L BEFORE you absolutely need it.

4WL is great for plowing snow with the Wrangler. Mostly just go forward and backward at low speed . Very effective.

 

[giraffemode]

In case it's not obvious, not only should you be rolling when you switch into 4LO, but also NEVER switch your T-case while you're on an uphill incline. As a general rule, you need to anticipate your T-case gearing BEFORE you actually need it, so better to err on the side of caution (4HI instead of 2HI, or 4LO instead of 4HI) if you think there's a steep hill or soft terrain coming up.

I learned that the hard way in Death Valley near the peak of Hunter Mountain, my husband decided while going up a hill that he wanted 4LO (too late), and put the T-case and transmission in neutral, then we stopped and we couldn't get out of neutral. Scariest thing to happen in my short offroading experience. After a few scary minutes while I tried to brainstorm how to get some forward momentum going, somehow the gears kicked in and we started rolling forward again in 4HI. It was a dumb mistake considering we had both completed a 2-day offroad driving class a couple months prior.

 

[BillArnett]

Agreed that you should get into the right mode before you really need it. But in the situation you described it should have been sufficient to simply roll backwards a couple of feet to get the gears to engage more easily. I've done that many times.

 

[xtopherm]

Can you give me a scenario for lockers?

You want lockers whenever you have differing amounts of traction left to right (or the most extreme version of that, a wheel in the air.)

With a transfer case and traditional diffs, you get 50% of the power sent to the front and 50% to the rear, but since open differentials are designed to allow powered wheels to turn at different speeds (so you can go around corners) it is easy to squander all that power off-road by spinning one wheel at each end. Lockers make sure that any wheel with traction puts its power to the ground. In effect, they are a fixed distribution of 25% of the power to each wheel, non-negotiable. Whatever wheel has traction will push you forward until other wheels get into traction situations. Lockers make it hard to turn, of course, but are absolutely critical for serious off-roading.

Best to anticipate the need for them before you get stuck and lose momentum, and then to switch them off as soon as you are clear of the obstacle to reduce tire wear, drive train wear and unnecessary trail damage. I tend to engage them progressively myself - rear first (because it is often all you need and an unlocked front makes it easier to steer), but if it starts to look messier than anticipated, I immediately engage the front too just to preserve momentum and clear the obstacle, then they are both switched right back off.

And since I am inferring from your question that you are probably new to the whole Rubicon situation, I will mention the other button right next to that locker switch - the electronic sway bar disconnect. Hit that button as you are approaching the trail at the same time you drop into 4-Lo. That swaybar is an on-road handling item that makes the Jeep handle better on road and corner with less body roll (virtually all cars and trucks have them), but off road on uneven ground all it does is increase the likelihood of a front wheel being held up in the air or at least very lightly loaded. Turning it off disconnects the ends of it and gives you the full axle articulation designed into your suspension so that the axle can track the contour of the ground and give the front wheels maximum contact (and traction).

Best of luck and be safe out there!

 

[xtopherm]

All well-considered. Do you think a little binding/wheel hop in dirt is harmful?
I’ve not been inclined to think so, but am eager to learn if I’m wrong.

On any surface with a little slip (loose dirt, snow, sand, ice, mud) a little wheel hop is not going to be too bad in terms of wear to tires, joints, driveline or the trail itself. It is not ideal, but the forces and durations will be pretty low (because the loose surface allows easy slip), so it is not a biggie. Doing it on very hard packed dirt roads or paved roads is just throwing money away in terms of parts and tire wear, and can be unsafe because the vehicle may not go where you point it or do what you expect it to do. So soft = fine. Hard = NO.

 

[mazeppa]

 

[brazos]

On any surface with a little slip (loose dirt, snow, sand, ice, mud) a little wheel hop is not going to be too bad in terms of wear to tires, joints, driveline or the trail itself. It is not ideal, but the forces and durations will be pretty low (because the loose surface allows easy slip), so it is not a biggie. Doing it on very hard packed dirt roads or paved roads is just throwing money away in terms of parts and tire wear, and can be unsafe because the vehicle may not go where you point it or do what you expect it to do. So soft = fine. Hard = NO.

 

[brazos]

Gotcha. Makes good sense. Thanks!

 

[Sean L]

You want lockers whenever you have differing amounts of traction left to right (or the most extreme version of that, a wheel in the air.)

With a transfer case and traditional diffs, you get 50% of the power sent to the front and 50% to the rear, but since open differentials are designed to allow powered wheels to turn at different speeds (so you can go around corners) it is easy to squander all that power off-road by spinning one wheel at each end. Lockers make sure that any wheel with traction puts its power to the ground. In effect, they are a fixed distribution of 25% of the power to each wheel, non-negotiable. Whatever wheel has traction will push you forward until other wheels get into traction situations. Lockers make it hard to turn, of course, but are absolutely critical for serious off-roading.

Best to anticipate the need for them before you get stuck and lose momentum, and then to switch them off as soon as you are clear of the obstacle to reduce tire wear, drive train wear and unnecessary trail damage. I tend to engage them progressively myself - rear first (because it is often all you need and an unlocked front makes it easier to steer), but if it starts to look messier than anticipated, I immediately engage the front too just to preserve momentum and clear the obstacle, then they are both switched right back off.

And since I am inferring from your question that you are probably new to the whole Rubicon situation, I will mention the other button right next to that locker switch - the electronic sway bar disconnect. Hit that button as you are approaching the trail at the same time you drop into 4-Lo. That swaybar is an on-road handling item that makes the Jeep handle better on road and corner with less body roll (virtually all cars and trucks have them), but off road on uneven ground all it does is increase the likelihood of a front wheel being held up in the air or at least very lightly loaded. Turning it off disconnects the ends of it and gives you the full axle articulation designed into your suspension so that the axle can track the contour of the ground and give the front wheels maximum contact (and traction).

Best of luck and be safe out there!

This is the best description of the purpose of the equipment I have read so far!

 

[IronScott]

I did my first trail ride last weekend and used 4L a couple times. Wasn't sure I was going to need it but better safe than sorry. We had a few steep climbs, all but one was fairly muddy. I had tested getting into 4L before, so I knew what to expect, but I had no problems at all. Luckily, I did have a chance to get into gear before I needed it.

I let the auto trans do its thing for part of the run and switched to manual control for part. The auto trans ran mostly in 2-3 but never higher. In manual, I ran 1 on the steepest climbs and then jumped to 3 once past. Never went higher. I'm not sure if auto will go higher than 3 in 4L or not but I never got greater than 15 MPH.

 

[BillArnett]

It's fine to use 4wd on hard packed dirt surfaces. There's still plenty of opportunity for the tires to slip a bit. And it's a big advantage to have 4-wheel engine braking and power to all 4 when cornering.

The transmission will happily go into all 8 gears in 4LO if you're going fast enough.

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