Comac90
Well-Known Member
Another pic: given the passion sometimes shown around the tailgate plates … I can’t speak for non-XR 392s, but the one on my XR does make accommodation for the 35s-
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Interesting, it’s definitely different, but from this particular angle it’s hard to tell if its actually higher, or just reshaped on the bottom with the drain plug moved to the side… Still an improvement either way, and I do like that it’s now stamped steel vs cast aluminum. The steel is certainly going to be heavier, but probably more able to take a hard hit without cracking open like aluminum.Few more pics of the pan …
From looking at the other forum, it appears to have 1.5" more ground clearance over the aluminum one.Interesting, it’s definitely different, but from this particular angle it’s hard to tell if its actually higher, or just reshaped on the bottom with the drain plug moved to the side… Still an improvement either way, and I do like that it’s now stamped steel vs cast aluminum. The steel is certainly going to be heavier, but probably more able to take a hard hit without cracking open like aluminum.
Just a guess though, I’m definitely no expert. Regardless, thanks for posting the pics!
Do you have a lift? I’m so confused on the 392 being actually lifted or not?The only thing I’m really curious to hear about is from someone who has been driving a standard 392 with 3.73 gearing and swapped with an XR with 4.56.
Currently with my BFG K02 37s I can’t tell any difference from the stock tires to the upgraded tires. I would be curious to see how much better this gearing is in case I decide to do it in the future.
The 392 is lifted -- so is the XR. The XR doesn't add anything material on top of the 392.Do you have a lift? I’m so confused on the 392 being actually lifted or not?
That Car and Driver article said 392 is 2” lifted to regular Rubicon and then XR adds another 1.5”. Trying to understand if I can fit 37 on my ordered XR392 without more/new lift.
My life situation pushed me to get the XR and I’m ok with the gearing, etc. good starter for me until I have some time/resource changes. Thanks everyone.
Same for me. On top of having a warranty on 35 tires.The 392 is lifted -- so is the XR. The XR doesn't add anything material on top of the 392.
For me, gears(4.56) / wheels (wider wheel and less backspacing) are what drove me to add the XR onto the 392.
Just to clarify, the 392 comes with about an extra 1.5 inches of lift over a standard Rubicon, but the XR 392 has no additional lift over the non-XR 392. I'm including a link to an older post of mine with pics of my 35's and stock suspension from multiple angles, just to give you a point of reference of how much space is left for 37's. From everything I've read, 37's will fit on a stock 392 & XR 392 with no additional lift, (especially the BFG KO2's) but they will also rub off-road.Do you have a lift? I’m so confused on the 392 being actually lifted or not?
That Car and Driver article said 392 is 2” lifted to regular Rubicon and then XR adds another 1.5”. Trying to understand if I can fit 37 on my ordered XR392 without more/new lift.
My life situation pushed me to get the XR and I’m ok with the gearing, etc. good starter for me until I have some time/resource changes. Thanks everyone.
Check out this build. Could also DM him for more detailsDo you have a lift? I’m so confused on the 392 being actually lifted or not?
That Car and Driver article said 392 is 2” lifted to regular Rubicon and then XR adds another 1.5”. Trying to understand if I can fit 37 on my ordered XR392 without more/new lift.
My life situation pushed me to get the XR and I’m ok with the gearing, etc. good starter for me until I have some time/resource changes. Thanks everyone.
Got it! Sounds like the Car & Driver article is *wrong* then; which, is propagating on other threads. I read the following quote as 2"392+1.5"XR=3.5" taller than a standard Rubicon.Just to clarify, the 392 comes with about an extra 1.5 inches of lift over a standard Rubicon, but the XR 392 has no additional lift over the non-XR 392. I'm including a link to an older post of mine with pics of my 35's and stock suspension from multiple angles, just to give you a point of reference of how much space is left for 37's. From everything I've read, 37's will fit on a stock 392 & XR 392 with no additional lift, (especially the BFG KO2's) but they will also rub off-road.
My pics if you are interested: Click Here Oh, and there are also lots of other great pics of 392's with different set ups in that thread as well, if you haven't already browsed through it.
Hope this helps!
-Rob
Nah, that's an easy mistake to make, especially since some automotive outlets have been making incorrect statements like that. Over the past year I've read that the base 392 like mine has anything from a 1 to 2.5 inch lift over a standard Rubi, depending on who you are reading, so I wouldn't be too hard on yourself!Got it! Sounds like the Car & Driver article is *wrong* then; which, is propagating on other threads. I read the following quote as 2"392+1.5"XR=3.5" taller than a standard Rubicon.
C&D: "To accommodate the Hemi engine and the shenanigans it'll inspire, Jeep strengthened the 392's frame, fitted a two-inch suspension lift with Fox dampers, and upgraded the rear brakes. Our test vehicle also included the Xtreme Recon package that adds another 1.5 inches of lift, along with the bigger tires."
I was hoping/interpreting the folks saying 37s fit/work on a non-XR 392 would give the additional "but I wouldn't take it off-road" clearance with that Car & Driver 1.5". Alas, I was wrong and an idiot.
What region of NC are you?Finally got my stock XR fully flexed out today. Couple of noteworthy points that have already been alluded to, but good to actually see it/experience it first hand before I begin mods…
1. there is very little suspension up travel - especially the rear; one of the least of any of the 8 rigs I’ve had over the years. Pic from today the rear for reference:
2. There is NO WAY a 37 is fitting without rubbing if you’re going to wheel it; the worst spot appears to be behind the rear tire. I had maybe ½” of clearance at full stuff in the rear.
3. I love the torque of this motor off road - seat of the pants feel, I think 4.56s are going to work well with 37s.
just my $0.02-
T
I will echo what others have stated in this thread. The 392 and the 392XR have the same amount of lift. ~1.5" over a stock Rubicon. Both versions of the 392 and the diesel have extra-long bump stop towers in the front to prevent the axle from interfering with the engine. The V6 Rubicon XR also has these extra-long bump stop towers, but they are used for tire stuffing clearance instead of engine clearance.Finally got my stock XR fully flexed out today. Couple of noteworthy points that have already been alluded to, but good to actually see it/experience it first hand before I begin mods…
1. there is very little suspension up travel - especially the rear; one of the least of any of the 8 rigs I’ve had over the years. Pic from today the rear for reference:
2. There is NO WAY a 37 is fitting without rubbing if you’re going to wheel it; the worst spot appears to be behind the rear tire. I had maybe ½” of clearance at full stuff in the rear.
3. I love the torque of this motor off road - seat of the pants feel, I think 4.56s are going to work well with 37s.
just my $0.02-
T
Very disappointing! Thank you posting this though; it’s very useful info.I will echo what others have stated in this thread. The 392 and the 392XR have the same amount of lift. ~1.5" over a stock Rubicon. Both versions of the 392 and the diesel have extra-long bump stop towers in the front to prevent the axle from interfering with the engine. The V6 Rubicon XR also has these extra-long bump stop towers, but they are used for tire stuffing clearance instead of engine clearance.
What this means. A standard 392 has the same fender clearance as a 392XR. Going above 35" will mean you either have to modify your fenders for extra clearance or increase bump stops which you DO NOT want to do on a 392!
What this also means. All 392's have very little up-travel. After adding a winch to the front bumper my 392XR I lost .5" of ride height and now have less than 2.5" of up travel. Which is very noticeable off-highway and over 5mph. The attached picture is showing the travel achieved on my front Fox 2.5 DSCs before hitting the bump stops. In my limited testing so far the high-speed compression on the DSCs needs to be 5 clicks or higher to avoid hitting the bump stops off-road on even moderate bumps/dips. 3 clicks of high-speed compression is notably more comfortable on-highway.
The stock 1.5" lift was not enough to create sufficient up travel for an off-road vehicle in my opinion. This applies to the Diesel, the V6 XR, and the 392s. I have ordered a Clayton 2.5" Overland+ lift, which I will run with the stock 35" tires, therefore not requiring fender clearance mods or additional bump stops. The 2.5" lift should provide between 1-1.5" of additional up travel in this configuration, which is a pretty significant improvement, considering how little up travel exists in stock form.