First Oil Change, what is the filter cap threading supposed to feel like?

[Yellow Cake Kid]

Hi,
I just did the first oil change on our new Rubicon. I think I recall that the torque spec when reinstalling and tightening the oil filter cap is 18 lb. ft., but as I was tightening the cap the resistance seemed to vary between a smooth free motion and abrupt binding. I didn't use a torque wrench because it would have been useless to equate measured torqe to the actual effective tension on the threads.

I just tightened it until it felt like I could keep spinning it down each time it broke free of the static or inertial resistance, but was afraid the composite material would crack if I tightened it further

I have been twisting wrenches for 50+ years and worked with all sorts of dissimilar metals. I don't need any tips on basic mechanicing, but I would like to get some feedback specific to the "feel" you have experienced when working with these composite oil filter assemblies.

Thank you for any insights you may share.

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[DaltonGang]

I would love to see an aftermarket metal oil filter cap. Problems solved.

 

[nerubi]

Didn't you just get it recently?

 

[Yellow Cake Kid]

Yes. We took delivery two weeks ago. It collected a bunch of miles getting from the dealer to our remotely located town.

I like to change oil sooner than later.

In any event, although I suspect I have it tighter than the advice I have found online: "hand tighten and then a 1/4 turn", yet looser than the 18 lb. ft. service manual specification. It appears to be functioning without any leaks.

It was the abrupt, for lack of a better word "seizing" characteristic that made me wonder if this is a common experience with the composite material cap.

Thank you.

 

[blnewt]

It's a bit like those gas caps that you tighten until it clicks, kind of a similar torque there, just a hair tighter. Just be sure to turn it backwards until the thread drops, then turn forwards so you know it's not crossed

 

[Yellow Cake Kid]

Thank you for the information.

 

[CarbonSteel]

I would love to see an aftermarket metal oil filter cap. Problems solved.

I would rather see an all aluminum oil cooler and filter body like Mercedes uses and solve the root cause of the leaks (cracked filter body where it meets the oil cooler).

 

[blnewt]

I'm just glad the oil filter is on top, SO easy and don't have to have worry about drips on cross members, taking off splash pans, and trying to wedge my old hands between frame and various motor parts

 

[dsgrey]

I'm just glad the oil filter is on top, SO easy and don't have to have worry about drips on cross members, taking off splash pans, and trying to wedge my old hands between frame and various motor parts

Yep. Owned a 1988 Olds Calais. Screw off the big plastic cap from the bottom of the oil pan. Skinless filter with a gasket would then be seen. Grab with pliers as the filter and 4qts of oil came out in 1 second.

 

[Aramis76]

I would love to see an aftermarket metal oil filter cap. Problems solved.

If i'm not mistaken, the base of the filter housing is also plastic, so changing the cap to metal would not fix the problem as you could still crack the housing if over-torqued.

 

[DaltonGang]

If i'm not mistaken, the base of the filter housing is also plastic, so changing the cap to metal would not fix the problem as you could still crack the housing if over-torqued.

Well, that just sucks. .

 

[CarbonSteel]

If i'm not mistaken, the base of the filter housing is also plastic, so changing the cap to metal would not fix the problem as you could still crack the housing if over-torqued.

You are not mistaken; it is plastic. If there is a silver lining, the JL oil cooler is about $95 versus the JK which is more than double that.

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