First oil change on the 392... Information regarding Mopar's alternate oil filter for the 6.4

[Viking Jeeper]

I have always loosened oil filters until a steady stream comes out from the top and flows down one side of the filter. Once that is over I finish unscrewing the filter with minimal mess.

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[Viking Jeeper]

I just did my first oil change at 2200 miles, and I was surprised to discover some big differences in the newer 392’s from November. For one, the oil pan is different. It’s a black, stamped steel unit with the drain plug on the lower back. Also, the total capacity was 7.5qts. At 7.0qts the oil barely registered on the dipstick. The additional 1/2qt brought the level right to the middle.
I’m not sure what prompted the oil pan change, but this newer one should be a big improvement over the original aluminum one.
I also tried punching a hole in the filter prior to removing it. I thought I was clever. I got the oil to drain beautifully into a long skinnny funnel. After it stopped I proceeded to loosen the filter, and oil still went all over the place…I think the problem is there’s oil on either side of the element, and perhaps there was still a lot remaining on the inside. I tried. Maybe someone else will have better luck.

What filter did you use?

 

[brettdavis]

I’m looking for the performance filter also, K&N or Mobel 1 for my 392. The Mopar performance filter part# 5038041AA. Is any one using this filter?

 

[MSparks909]

I’m looking for the performance filter also, K&N or Mobel 1 for my 392. The Mopar performance filter part# 5038041AA. Is any one using this filter?

Yes. Tight fit but works fine. Only oil filter I’ll be using going forward. I broke the plastic drain spout off the oil filter housing to make screwing on/off the larger filter easier.

 

[stumblinhorse]

The srt 041 is hard to find right now.

 

[hardhat]

So after watching Youtube videos and it being clear as mud, I decided to buy a bunch of 392 oil filters, cut them apart and take a look.
I like the Fram XG10060 or Wix 57060XP (in small 339 form factor) or Wix 57899XP (in large 899/041 form factor).

Wix 57899XP is winner for me. I could not find a Mopar 041 to dissect. I did not do any editing on video, so it is not very good from cinematography standpoint. I had phone in 1 hand and filters in other. If anyone has any questions, I'll answer them if I can..

Not hating on oil filters, except maybe the Fram TG10060:poop:, just putting some info out there if folks want to make a little more of an informed decision on what filter to get.
I was surprised that the some of the aftermarket filters were much nicer than the oem filter.

 

[Left Field]

Great video providing a nice inside look at the various 392 filters! Working in the past for a major filter manufacturer meant part of my job included doing very similar to what you did and then including testing of the capture efficiency of the filter elements for various brands.

A few notes regarding filter construction which might be helpful, many of which you touched on:

1) The silicone anti-drainbacks are superior as they resist hardening and therefore seal better over the life of the filter. The rubber anti-drainbacks tend to have the plasticizers leach out due to the hot oil, then harden and fail to retain oil in the filter between engine starts. This can often be witnessed as the filter ages by a delayed oil pressure build up when the engine is started after sitting for a while. On the 392 the oil filter hangs down so the anti-drain back is not critical like it would be on a horizontal or inverted application.

2) The metal filter end caps are superior to the paper caps, providing improved rigidity and stability for the filter element. Deformation of the filter element can result in unintended oil bypass.

3) The springs in the bottom of the filters - the coil spring is a superior solution. The stamped sheet metal spring provides very little spring motion. That means (and I've witnessed) 'rattlers' e.g. the occasional off-tolerance filter where the spring does not securely hold the filter element against the mounting plate and it rattles when you shake it. That means oil can go around the filter element. Even if this type of filter design is not a 'rattler', it is still prone to unintended (and un-detectable) bypass due to the flex in the mounting plate when the filter is tightened. This is another major reason not to over-tighten an oil filter.

Thanks for the detailed info on our filter options, along with your time and the expense!

 

[SCARd4Life]

I'm new to the 392 community (went D status today), but have a TRX. This was a recent post that you may find interesting since many of you are using SRT filters (glad I bought a stash, wish I had bought more!):
https://www.ram-trx.com/threads/15-trx-oil-filters-cut-compared.9481/

 

[stumblinhorse]

I am running a mo-899. No clearance issue once you remove the plastic drain thingy…

 

[jmr]

What's interesting is Wal-Mart sells the smaller MO-339 oil filter for $4 more than the larger MO-899 oil filter. I'm tempted to use the MO-899 on my 2.0L instead of the MO-339 although it would be a tight fit.

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