First oil change on the 392... Information regarding Mopar's alternate oil filter for the 6.4

[0II392II0]

Hello fellow Jeepers,

***As stated in the title this is not really about the oil change its self, but the parts I chose to use and observations during the process. This is to help those who want to use the absolute best parts possible for our engine. This is what I chose to do and am not suggesting this to anyone but sharing what I've done and sharing my out comes. If someone is going to mention my warranty in the comments, all I have to say is that if I were worried about a warranty I would have bought new.***

First Parts used for the oil change:

Parts not in the picture that were used as well; shop-rag, channel lock, funnel, oil wrench.

To drain your oil you will need to remove oil fill cap and drain plug.

Have the oil at or close to operating temp when you drain.

So we all know the drain plug on the 392's were put in an awesome place, to receive a beating. I went to check what socket to use (didn't look up first). 9/16 was to big 1/2 was to small, 13mm didn't fit as well so I used a 14mm. It was the tightest fit and what I used, might not be the proper size but it's what I had to use because:

This had to have happened on my last adventure, it's been through probably about 30-35 miles(low balling) of Dimond rated trails. This damage happened with EVERY line taken was carefully chosen to avoid damage to this damn bolt. Still wasn't enough. I lucked out how damage was taken to the rear of the bolt and just sheered it off, if it had been the front, I would have been stuck out on the trails, This bolt is ridiculously low!!! Skids will be my first addition to it when they become available for our rigs.

Moving on, after oil is drained replace the old oil filter:

I've read no pictures it never happened enough to include pictures of everything... Notice the color of the oil, that is with only 600 miles. Glare is making it look cleaner then it did in person.

The oil filter is the reason for this post. Reading up on the 6.4 I came across information that there was a Mopar oil filter that blew the stock one away. I knew that is what I was going to be using when I did my oil changes, but still had worries that the oil filter backing would not accommodate the filter.
Part # 050380041 AA-001 It is a lot larger then the stock filter.

It's diameter is 3/4 inch larger and 1/2 inch taller:

Notice that the sealant rubber ring is the same diameter though:
(even if they might not look identical in the picture butted up to each other they are identical)

So your going to put on the new filter and fill. Size comparison again:

As you can see it is stuffed in there, but it does but fit. I hand tightened it as hard as I could (there is a point to this) and added 6.65 quarts. Even with all the extra volume in the oil filter that 6.65 quarts filled it completely to the top of the fill bar. If you are going to use the regular filter I would suggest no more then 6-6.2 quarts and then fill from there after you can see where it settles too.

After oil change check everything looked good when out and did 10 miles everything looked good, but I didn't have time to post this (Saturday night) and the next morning I went out to check everything and there was oil on the ground, but just a drop, literally a drop:

So I tried to tighten it some more, I couldn't. So I went and grabbed my oil wrench and without effort it twisted almost a 1/4 turn. So I went out and did another 10 miles this time pushing it hard, 4 pulls brought the engine up to 4.5-5k for a little to make sure everything would work a 100% before posting. When I got back there was the ever so slight build up of oil , not enough to form a drop though. So I once again I got under it and tighten the oil filter some more, it went almost another 1/4 turn. Since then 27 miles with no issues and I'm not worried about future issues. It is soooo much larger and such a tight fit you have to work at making sure it is screwed in all the way and seated properly. There is not much room with the larger filter and don't think anyone would be able to tighten it enough with the larger radius and lack of room. So if you plan on doing this make sure you have an oil filter wrench of some sort, I highly doubt you would be able to tighten it enough without one.

*I'm sure there are others who have thought of doing this and it helps at least one person. To me, that alone makes it worth the effort. If you leave questions I will get back to you*

BTW.. if you spent the money it cost for these things take care of it please.

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[BCMgunner]

Great write up... thank you for this!!

 

[0II392II0]

Great write up... thank you for this!!

Absolutely. I've enjoyed all the information you've shared. I will continue to add to the collection of information myself in the future.

Note to all all reading this... I want to make it clear I didn't have to over tighten the filter to make it work, there is literally no room. Trying to screw it on with just being able to grab the top of the filter (or base when on) was just simply not enough. When tightened with the oil wrench I simply turned, I didn't have to twist any harder than I would have hand tightened it if I were able to get a good grip.

 

[pnut]

Hello fellow Jeepers,

***As stated in the title this is not really about the oil change its self, but the parts I chose to use and observations during the process. This is to help those who want to use the absolute best parts possible for our engine. This is what I chose to do and am not suggesting this to anyone but sharing what I've done and sharing my out comes. If someone is going to mention my warranty in the comments, all I have to say is that if I were worried about a warranty I would have bought new.***

First Parts used for the oil change:

Parts not in the picture that were used as well; shop-rag, channel lock, funnel, oil wrench.

To drain your oil you will need to remove oil fill cap and drain plug.

Have the oil at or close to operating temp when you drain.

So we all know the drain plug on the 392's were put in an awesome place, to receive a beating. I went to check what socket to use (didn't look up first). 9/16 was to big 1/2 was to small, 13mm didn't fit as well so I used a 14mm. It was the tightest fit and what I used, might not be the proper size but it's what I had to use because:

This had to have happened on my last adventure, it's been through probably about 30-35 miles(low balling) of Dimond rated trails. This damage happened with EVERY line taken was carefully chosen to avoid damage to this damn bolt. Still wasn't enough. I lucked out how damage was taken to the rear of the bolt and just sheered it off, if it had been the front, I would have been stuck out on the trails, This bolt is ridiculously low!!! Skids will be my first addition to it when they become available for our rigs.

Moving on, after oil is drained replace the old oil filter:

I've read no pictures it never happened enough to include pictures of everything... Notice the color of the oil, that is with only 600 miles. Glare is making it look cleaner then it did in person.

The oil filter is the reason for this post. Reading up on the 6.4 I came across information that there was a Mopar oil filter that blew the stock one away. I knew that is what I was going to be using when I did my oil changes, but still had worries that the oil filter backing would not accommodate the filter.
Part # 050380041 AA-001 It is a lot larger then the stock filter.

It's diameter is 3/4 inch larger and 1/2 inch taller:

Notice that the sealant rubber ring is the same diameter though:
(even if they might not look identical in the picture butted up to each other they are identical)

So your going to put on the new filter and fill. Size comparison again:

As you can see it is stuffed in there, but it does but fit. I hand tightened it as hard as I could (there is a point to this) and added 6.65 quarts. Even with all the extra volume in the oil filter that 6.65 quarts filled it completely to the top of the fill bar. If you are going to use the regular filter I would suggest no more then 6-6.2 quarts and then fill from there after you can see where it settles too.

After oil change check everything looked good when out and did 10 miles everything looked good, but I didn't have time to post this (Saturday night) and the next morning I went out to check everything and there was oil on the ground, but just a drop, literally a drop:

So I tried to tighten it some more, I couldn't. So I went and grabbed my oil wrench and without effort it twisted almost a 1/4 turn. So I went out and did another 10 miles this time pushing it hard, 4 pulls brought the engine up to 4.5-5k for a little to make sure everything would work a 100% before posting. When I got back there was the ever so slight build up of oil , not enough to form a drop though. So I once again I got under it and tighten the oil filter some more, it went almost another 1/4 turn. Since then 27 miles with no issues and I'm not worried about future issues. It is soooo much larger and such a tight fit you have to work at making sure it is screwed in all the way and seated properly. There is not much room with the larger filter and don't think anyone would be able to tighten it enough with the larger radius and lack of room. So if you plan on doing this make sure you have an oil filter wrench of some sort, I highly doubt you would be able to tighten it enough without one.

*I'm sure there are others who have thought of doing this and it helps at least one person. To me, that alone makes it worth the effort. If you leave questions I will get back to you*

BTW.. if you spent the money it cost for these things take care of it please.

Do you happen to know the PN for the original recommended filter?

What is the purpose behind not using the original recommended filter? I firmly believe if there was a better filter in their parts list that worked properly for clearances etc they would have used it. I like you want the best for my 392, but I don't think deviating (without information / history / Jeep recommendation) is the route I will go.

 

[Mikester86]

May want to add some latex gloves to your parts list. No reason to oil soak your hands in my opinion.

 

[0II392II0]

Do you happen to know the PN for the original recommended filter?

What is the purpose behind not using the original recommended filter? I firmly believe if there was a better filter in their parts list that worked properly for clearances etc they would have used it. I like you want the best for my 392, but I don't think deviating (without information / history / Jeep recommendation) is the route I will go.

It's a higher capacity oil filter which in theory should let oil flow easier and not strain the pump as much. It is a Genuine Mopar product that is listed for high output applications. It's a universal fit for the high output 5.7, 64 and the V10 the viper had. It was designed to be the high performance option for these engines and did not come from the factory on any of the engines it was designed for. Jeep raised the 392 yet didn't put on the longer the control arms that go with the kit. This is a high output Mopar engine that has their smaller designed oil filter on it, not the high out-out oil filter that they specify designed for high-output engines. Manufactures put on generic parts not the best parts

Clearance is tight but it fits and the backing plate is fits it. If it wasn't meant to fit I highly doubt the backing plate would be so large and accommodate the oil filter at all. I've been doing my own oil changes for over two decades and I have only seen a few vehicles that had a larger backing plate for a larger oil filter then it came it, it was because everyone of them was already designed to accept another part that deviated from the original.

If you do some searching there are tons of threads, write ups and reviews that this is the optimum oil filter for a high output Mopar V8. If it were something really crazy or not made by Mopar its self, I would not have done this but there is plenty information out there that this is the best oil filter if you want a cheap upgrade on a part you are going to have to replace anyway that will put less strain on your oil pump.

Go to the Apps tab on your Uconnect, Hit the Off-road tab, there is an option to monitor your engine's temps and monitor real-time temps and levels. The oil pressure that these things run at is pretty high. Since I was able to buy these in bulk at $10.20 shipped. Seemed like a good idea to upgrade the oil filter with one that was designed specifically for these engines by the folks who designed the engine.

Good question. I wish, I too believed that manufactures would put the best in their product but sometimes it seems they like to sell it to you after the fact. Since this is a something that is designed to be regularly changed and tossed like an air filter, I don't see an issues. BTW I do feel that the OEM air filters are the best, as their PPM are usually lower then after markets. Working on engines is my past time, so I'm not pressured or rushed. I take my time and do TONS of research before putting anything on my vehicles. I only put top quality products that I know will help performance and longevity, that's why you see Amsoil being used during the oil change as well.

I apricate the question, I'm trying to put out as much information as I can on the threads I start, as I know for every member that is reading and actually contributing to a discussion there are probably another 50 reading that have questions and will not ask, so I was trying to cover as much as possible in this response as to why I would put the larger oil filter on.

*stock oil filter part# is on the oil filter itself and I threw it out after taking those last pictures.

 

[0II392II0]

Do you happen to know the PN for the original recommended filter?

What is the purpose behind not using the original recommended filter? I firmly believe if there was a better filter in their parts list that worked properly for clearances etc they would have used it. I like you want the best for my 392, but I don't think deviating (without information / history / Jeep recommendation) is the route I will go.

I read your reply a little fast an might have over replied. I did a lot of research and it's the upgraded Mopar oil filter for our engine. The larger oil filter I used was designed for oil filter, over kill, probably as I won't be drag stripping mine, but I know it's going to spend alot of time getting ran real hard in 4low with minimal air flow so I wanted the best options to help oil flow and contribute to a cool engine.

 

[0II392II0]

May want to add some latex gloves to your parts list. No reason to oil soak your hands in my opinion.

Yeah but I can't feel it the same with latex on.

 

[0II392II0]

Do you happen to know the PN for the original recommended filter?

What is the purpose behind not using the original recommended filter? I firmly believe if there was a better filter in their parts list that worked properly for clearances etc they would have used it. I like you want the best for my 392, but I don't think deviating (without information / history / Jeep recommendation) is the route I will go.

OK more in-depth answer to your question and since Hamihemi392 had the same, I went through my oil filter grave yard where they set for ever until I get around to collecting all the completely drained filters for disposal. as requested part numbers on the oil filter:

That is the oil filter put on at the factory. I doubt that will be the one that is used during oil changes as it is smaller then the one used on stock 5.7 Hemi's. IMO it's trash, rubbish, garbage; isn't large enough to filter the 7quarts running in this thing.

The stock part number for oil filters for the 5.7/6.4 is MOP-04884899AC or commonly known as MO-899
-You can look it up by that number as well. It looks to be ever so slightly smaller then the SRT oil filter that I used, but I could be wrong. I mentioned before how large the backing plate is for the oil filters, I stand behind what I said, it's to accommodate a larger oil filter then the one it came with.

Here are some pictures of the one I installed MOP-05038041AA or MO-041 vs the MOP-04884899AC or MO-899.

So a few notes from in-depth research. The main difference (besides a slight size difference) is the design of the bypass valve, located on the top and the actuator spring at the bottom. On the SRT the bypass value is one piece and the actuator spring is located on the bottom of the filter. On the Mopar filter it is a multipiece design with both bypass valve and spring both being on the top.

From what I have gathered the MO-041 is going to be the best be making sure that all oil get filtered. It is going to take a lot to make the bypass valve engage.

*To make sense of the purpose for the oil filter I highly suggest going into your apps then off-road settings and look at the gauges tab. The oil pressure on these things are crazy high. Even when comparing them to a low displacement forced induction engine. Your cold starts are going to be 65+ PSI, and when getting on it that high as well. I wanted an oil filter that is going to filter the oil 100% of the time and that's what the SRT should do.

 

[Deleted member 67726]

Dude thanks bro! That

OK more in-depth answer to your question and since Hamihemi392 had the same, I went through my oil filter grave yard where they set for ever until I get around to collecting all the completely drained filters for disposal. as requested part numbers on the oil filter:

That is the oil filter put on at the factory. I doubt that will be the one that is used during oil changes as it is smaller then the one used on stock 5.7 Hemi's. IMO it's trash, rubbish, garbage; isn't large enough to filter the 7quarts running in this thing.

The stock part number for oil filters for the 5.7/6.4 is MOP-04884899AC or commonly known as MO-899
-You can look it up by that number as well. It looks to be ever so slightly smaller then the SRT oil filter that I used, but I could be wrong. I mentioned before how large the backing plate is for the oil filters, I stand behind what I said, it's to accommodate a larger oil filter then the one it came with.

Here are some pictures of the one I installed MOP-05038041AA or MO-041 vs the MOP-04884899AC or MO-899.

So a few notes from in-depth research. The main difference (besides a slight size difference) is the design of the bypass valve, located on the top and the actuator spring at the bottom. On the SRT the bypass value is one piece and the actuator spring is located on the bottom of the filter. On the Mopar filter it is a multipiece design with both bypass valve and spring both being on the top.

From what I have gathered the MO-041 is going to be the best be making sure that all oil get filtered. It is going to take a lot to make the bypass valve engage.

*To make sense of the purpose for the oil filter I highly suggest going into your apps then off-road settings and look at the gauges tab. The oil pressure on these things are crazy high. Even when comparing them to a low displacement forced induction engine. Your cold starts are going to be 65+ PSI, and when getting on it that high as well. I wanted an oil filter that is going to filter the oil 100% of the time and that's what the SRT should do.

S wh

OK more in-depth answer to your question and since Hamihemi392 had the same, I went through my oil filter grave yard where they set for ever until I get around to collecting all the completely drained filters for disposal. as requested part numbers on the oil filter:

That is the oil filter put on at the factory. I doubt that will be the one that is used during oil changes as it is smaller then the one used on stock 5.7 Hemi's. IMO it's trash, rubbish, garbage; isn't large enough to filter the 7quarts running in this thing.

The stock part number for oil filters for the 5.7/6.4 is MOP-04884899AC or commonly known as MO-899
-You can look it up by that number as well. It looks to be ever so slightly smaller then the SRT oil filter that I used, but I could be wrong. I mentioned before how large the backing plate is for the oil filters, I stand behind what I said, it's to accommodate a larger oil filter then the one it came with.

Here are some pictures of the one I installed MOP-05038041AA or MO-041 vs the MOP-04884899AC or MO-899.

So a few notes from in-depth research. The main difference (besides a slight size difference) is the design of the bypass valve, located on the top and the actuator spring at the bottom. On the SRT the bypass value is one piece and the actuator spring is located on the bottom of the filter. On the Mopar filter it is a multipiece design with both bypass valve and spring both being on the top.

From what I have gathered the MO-041 is going to be the best be making sure that all oil get filtered. It is going to take a lot to make the bypass valve engage.

*To make sense of the purpose for the oil filter I highly suggest going into your apps then off-road settings and look at the gauges tab. The oil pressure on these things are crazy high. Even when comparing them to a low displacement forced induction engine. Your cold starts are going to be 65+ PSI, and when getting on it that high as well. I wanted an oil filter that is going to filter the oil 100% of the time and that's what the SRT should do.

Thanks for sharing this bro! Exactly the info. I needed because the one you showed is discontinued like from 2011 and the ac one is 2015

 

[Deleted member 67726]

So they struggled for oil filters, anything to save a dollar even on a 75k car lol

 

[supermike]

lube the o ring and hand tight should be enough. clean the surrounding area with some brake clean, should be no problem. It's super difficult to remove after tighten with wrench.

 

[0II392II0]

lube the o ring and hand tight should be enough. clean the surrounding area with some brake clean, should be no problem. It's super difficult to remove after tighten with wrench.

When I used the wrench it was used just to get a grip on it, it wasn't cranked hard. There simply wasn't enough room for me to twist it with my fingers. The first 1/4 turn I spoke of I could have turned the wrench with 1 finger, I just assumed that the turn was enough. I didn't even attempt any further tightening. When I did go back the addition for tightening, it turned with ease. If you look in the picture of the oil filter installed there is no room to grab the oil filter, you are twisting it from the bottom with only finger access, so even getting it hand tight was unachievable with just finger tips.

 

[supermike]

When I used the wrench it was used just to get a grip on it, it wasn't cranked hard. There simply wasn't enough room for me to twist it with my fingers. The first 1/4 turn I spoke of I could have turned the wrench with 1 finger, I just assumed that the turn was enough. I didn't even attempt any further tightening. When I did go back the addition for tightening, it turned with ease. If you look in the picture of the oil filter installed there is no room to grab the oil filter, you are twisting it from the bottom with only finger access, so even getting it hand tight was unachievable with just finger tips.

thanks for the head up, placed an oil filter wrench in my Amazon cart…

 

[0II392II0]

thanks for the head up, placed an oil filter wrench in my Amazon cart…

I should have clarified when using the oil filter wrench it was clamped and the handle was bent 90 degrees, so there was no actual leverage used during the tightening.

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