First JL OIL CHANGE.... , COMPLETED W/ DIY INSTRUCTIONS AND PICS

[JeepU4IA]

I'm wondering how a thread gets 12 pages long for something the dealership will do for you for free, who would actually read all the 12 pages of posts, and who needs 12 pages to figure out how to do a oil change?

Can you help me change my oil? What do I do first? :cwl:

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[AZDustMuncher]

Can you help me change my oil? What do I do first? :cwl:

I'm sure I'm more than capable of doing a oil change. It just that I only work on my vehicles when I can save myself money, not pay for something I could have done for free. Even then with a oil change coupon IMO it's hardly even worth doing a oil change on a stock motor yourself. Yeah I suppose they could mess something up but the odds aren't any more likely that someone screwing it up themselves.

 

[JeepU4IA]

I'm sure I'm more than capable of doing a oil change. It just that I only work on my vehicles when I can save myself money, not pay for something I could have done for free. Even then with a oil change coupon IMO it's hardly even worth doing a oil change on a stock motor yourself. Yeah I suppose they could mess something up but the odds aren't any more likely that someone screwing it up themselves.

There you go, now you've been sucked into a discussion about oil changes. Now do you see why there are 12 pages of this thread? Don't mind me though, I just wanted to start page 13!

 

[Solidaxle]

Has anybody tried the K&N oil filter ? Their products are always pretty good quality. My JL only has 750 miles thinking changing at 3K but I am not excited about switching over to Pennzoil I’m a mobile1 fan. Used Pennzoil over the years and it always seem dark , I don’t like that for some reason.
My local dealer said there is an updated part number for the Mopar filter 68191349AC And supersedes all others.

 

[Rhinebeck01]

@Solidaxle

2018 Wrangler 3.6L Pentastar engine

Chrysler/Jeep Oil filter part number is 68191349AA - (MO-349) / / 68191349AB - (MD-349) // 68191349AC (new number) but still MO-349

Mobil 1: M1C-456A

Purolator: L36296

K&N: PS-7026

Jeep recommends you use SAE 0W-20 Engine Oil, such as MOPAR, Pennzoil, and
Shell Helix. - 5 quarts oil

24 mm socket for oil filter housing cap (18 ft/lb torque)

13 mm socket for oil drain plug (20 ft/lb torque)



Oil Life Reset:
1. Without pushing the brake pedal, push and release the
ENGINE START/STOP button and place the ignition to
the ON/RUN position (do not start the engine).
2. Navigate to Oil Life submenu in Vehicle Info in the
instrument cluster display.
3. Push and hold the OK button until the gauge resets to
100%.

Secondary Method For Oil Change Reset Procedure
1. Without pushing the brake pedal, push and release the
ENGINE START/STOP button and place the ignition to
the ON/RUN position (do not start the engine).
2. Fully press the accelerator pedal, slowly, three times
within ten seconds.
3. Without pushing the brake pedal, push and release the
ENGINE START/STOP button once to return the ignition
to the OFF/LOCK position.
NOTE: If the indicator message illuminates when you
start the vehicle, the oil change indicator system did not
reset. If necessary, repeat this procedure.

 

[DanW]

Has anybody tried the K&N oil filter ? Their products are always pretty good quality. My JL only has 750 miles thinking changing at 3K but I am not excited about switching over to Pennzoil I’m a mobile1 fan. Used Pennzoil over the years and it always seem dark , I don’t like that for some reason.
My local dealer said there is an updated part number for the Mopar filter 68191349AC And supersedes all others.

I'd expect K&N would perform just fine. It is a different animal than their air filters, so I'm betting they are farmed out to a larger oil filter supplier. The quality on them looks good, but they don't publish filtering or flow data.

There is a Fram engineer on BITOG that says there is no filter media on the market that can match both the flow rate and filtering efficiency of the Fram Ultra. I've seen no manufacturer even make the claim to beat them. That's what I use on all my cars now. Most of the brand names are still very good or at least good enough. I also like the top of the line Wix or Napa Gold, and Mobil 1. I'm not a fan of Purolator, and that's who makes the Mopar filters. They've had LOTS of tearing in media in their can filters. I've not seen that even one time, though, in their cartridge filter for the Pentastar, so I wouldn't worry at all, if that's what you run or have run. I truly believe you will see a good number of Pentastars hitting 250k miles running any of them. I'd bet money, though, that the Fram Ultra would have better flow than the K&N, and better filtering, or they'd be publishing their numbers.

I'm a huge Mobil 1 fan, too. I'll mostly run it. My lab reports on them have been solid. I've nver seen an engine have an issue because the oil failed. Never, not once, in 50 years of breathing. Not even cheap dino oil. Mobil 1 is the sweetest engine nectar of all the big brands, in my humble opinion, so I wouldn't worry. FCA's warranty will be more about did you change the oil and run the proper grade. (They wouldn't be able to tell a 5w30 from a 0w20 after a few thousand miles. Why? Because oil can thicken with use. Mobil 1 and Pennzoil Platinum usually won't until many, many miles, but all of them eventually will do that.) Mobil 1 meets API standards. The only reason it doesn't have MS6395 is political and due to FCA's relationship with Shell. (Ferrarri, to be exact.) That said, don't be afraid of Pennzoil Platinum, Ultra, or Gold. They are absolutely excellent oils. Like I said, I've got Pennzoil Ultra on deck. I expect it will do very well. I'm going to run it for no other reason than my own entertainment and curiosity. I ran it once in my JK before they changed the formulation, and it did fine.

 

[DanW]

Fram Ultraguard is XG11665, and any of the Frams will have that number, either preceded by PF or TG, depending on the model. (Extraguard or Toughguard), for those who are interested. I don't have the numbers handy for Wix, Napa, K&N, Purolator, or others.

 

[Jondrew]

Back to the original post. Nice detailed instructions, but I (again) take exception to Step 7. I read that as “put the drain bolt back in and turn until it stops, then tighten an additional 1/4 turn”. I think that would way overtighten the bolt, and potentially strip it. The torque on the drain bolt is 20 ft-pounds. That’s not even half a grunt. I think a 1/4 turn past the stopping point would be way in excess of 20 ft-pounds.

 

[DanW]

Back to the original post. Nice detailed instructions, but I (again) take exception to Step 7. I read that as “put the drain bolt back in and turn until it stops, then tighten an additional 1/4 turn”. I think that would way overtighten the bolt, and potentially strip it. The torque on the drain bolt is 20 ft-pounds. That’s not even half a grunt. I think a 1/4 turn past the stopping point would be way in excess of 20 ft-pounds.

I'm with you. I use a torque wrench.

 

[Rhinebeck01]

@Jondrew
When doing an oil change on the JL, why fool with the dipstick. Not necessary to remove or check the oil level after you pour in exactly 5 quarts.

 

[Rhinebeck01]

Not sure if I posted this in the past.... but here is the part number on the 3.6L oil filter housing cap. The cap that on occasion, will crack, when you tighten it... even if you don't over tighten it.

24 mm socket for oil filter housing cap (18 ft/lb torque)

I always keep one around just in case... have done so for many years.

Mopar 68191350AA Oil Filter Housing Cap
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00TO1NX8W/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l1313&_nkw=Mopar+68191350AA&_sacat=0

 

[Solidaxle]

Back to the original post. Nice detailed instructions, but I (again) take exception to Step 7. I read that as “put the drain bolt back in and turn until it stops, then tighten an additional 1/4 turn”. I think that would way overtighten the bolt, and potentially strip it. The torque on the drain bolt is 20 ft-pounds. That’s not even half a grunt. I think a 1/4 turn past the stopping point would be way in excess of 20 ft-pounds.

Just curious what your rules are for keeping this thread on “The original post” are we only allowed to speak of the procedure of oil change and no product questions? Because I’ve read through this and we never move off the subject of oil change procedure and products used in the procedure.

 

[Jeeper Fever]

There you go, now you've been sucked into a discussion about oil changes. Now do you see why there are 12 pages of this thread? Don't mind me though, I just wanted to start page 13!

That moment when you are still waiting on delivery of your Jeep, so you start reading and posting on a thread about oil changes.

You will know that wierdo from Cali must have got his Jeep, because I will just dissappear for a week or two, then pop up with a thread about mud with pics.

Still D status, might be D1 as I did get my Build Sheet from cryptostickers. Can't be bothered to call Jeep Cares because you know they don't.

:P

 

[Jondrew]

Just curious what your rules are for keeping this thread on “The original post” are we only allowed to speak of the procedure of oil change and no product questions? Because I’ve read through this and we never move off the subject of oil change procedure and products used in the procedure.

Just like Outback. No Rules. I think the OP did a great how-to post. But I saw (what appears to me at least) to be a serious flaw in his procedure, and wanted to reiterate my observation so someone didnt find out the hard way by stripping an oil pan bolt.

I sense my posts may be annoying you. There’s a wonderful feature in the forum called “ignore”. Give it a shot.

 

[plex]

So whats the consensus on oil thickness, should I go with 5W30 if I live in the south?

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