Fender chop kits (AAL vs Quake)

white.jl.rubicon

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Hi all, I was looking into getting my way into doing a fender chop kit. I’ve seen that both American adventure labs and quake are making these slimline products. I have heard countless issues with hyper flash and want to avoid that so I do not have to have buy a tazer until I really need one. What are y’all’s thoughts on which is better or just change fenders altogether?

 

SH556JL

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Bit of a discussion about Quake vs AAL here.

Personally I prefer Quake and went with them. However, I am thinking that slimline light design is flawed between both manufacturers. I say that, because even the similar design that @Quake LED had on display at Jeep Jam today looked a bit cloudy and faded.

This video and the Quakes being always in stock is what sealed the deal for me.


394727A6-CD0D-4085-99C2-C1E3204E7AF7.jpeg
 

mygreenkaw

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AAL makes a hyper flash elimatnion harness. I have the factory led and tazer but still bought the harness for my install.

I love mine, agree on the point that I could see the plastic getting foggy over time however the AAL isn't clear to begin with.

Do-it you won't regret it. I think both options look great!

20210715_173855.jpg


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Quake LED

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Hi all, I was looking into getting my way into doing a fender chop kit. I’ve seen that both American adventure labs and quake are making these slimline products. I have heard countless issues with hyper flash and want to avoid that so I do not have to have buy a tazer until I really need one. What are y’all’s thoughts on which is better or just change fenders altogether?
@white.jl.rubicon ,

Although I might have a slightly biased opinion I want to pipe in and assure you that all 4 of our different styles of fender chop products are 100% GAURENTEED to never cause hyper flash/ dash errors for BOTH halogen and LED package jeeps. This is the case out of the box, you do not need to purchase any additional parts to make it work on your Jeep!

I would also like to note if you are concerned about a foggy lens that ours don't yellow nearly as bad as other plastics we have seen used for similar applications, and that we also have a new smoked chop kit that looks completely blacked out when the lights are off, which looks really good on white Rubicons lol!

Jeep Wrangler JL/Gladiator JT Slim Smoked DRL Rubicon Fender Chop Kit (quakeled.com)

Let me know if you have any question specifically to us and I will get back ASAP.
 
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white.jl.rubicon

white.jl.rubicon

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@white.jl.rubicon ,

Although I might have a slightly biased opinion I want to pipe in and assure you that all 4 of our different styles of fender chop products are 100% GAURENTEED to never cause hyper flash/ dash errors for BOTH halogen and LED package jeeps. This is the case out of the box, you do not need to purchase any additional parts to make it work on your Jeep!

I would also like to note if you are concerned about a foggy lens that ours don't yellow nearly as bad as other plastics we have seen used for similar applications, and that we also have a new smoked chop kit that looks completely blacked out when the lights are off, which looks really good on white Rubicons lol!

Jeep Wrangler JL/Gladiator JT Slim Smoked DRL Rubicon Fender Chop Kit (quakeled.com)

Let me know if you have any question specifically to us and I will get back ASAP.
you wouldn’t happen to have any pics of those lights on white rubicon’s would ya? Also having a hard time digesting $450 for a bracket and some little lights, any discount codes going on?
 

Chocolate Thunder

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I have AAL. I think they look amazing both off and on. The DRL and the turn signals. I like the sequential turn signal functionality. The only negative is that I can’t seem to fix the turn signal out message on the dash. I have a Tazer but the process to clear the bulb out fix hasn’t worked for me. However, functionally they perform fine.
 

proptied

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I'm running Quake. Originally ordered the AAL but the availability was poor at the time (I believe they're getting much better, recently) and had to cancel that order.

Happy with them so far. No yellowing, clean look, easy install. I like the amber corner marker. No extra harnesses or programming to deal with.

I do feel like they could be more 5000K-5500K vs 6000K, but I don't have factory LEDs to compare them to. Perhaps the factory's are 6000K. For me, they're a bit too blue. I also wish they weren't made overseas, but I suppose that's why availability was so good on these.

IMG_0987.jpg
 

Quake LED

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you wouldn’t happen to have any pics of those lights on white rubicon’s would ya? Also having a hard time digesting $450 for a bracket and some little lights, any discount codes going on?
you wouldn’t happen to have any pics of those lights on white rubicon’s would ya? Also having a hard time digesting $450 for a bracket and some little lights, any discount codes going on?
Sent you a DM, but we always take care of forum members ;)
 

swozey

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My AALs are great but they had a ridiculous lead time, I did order them years ago it may be better now. I've never had any bulb CELs. They're so simple I can't imagine going wrong either way.

jeepaal.png
 

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I have the smoked Quakes and have been very happy with them. No issues with hyper flash or bulb out warnings. The look clean and the sequential signals are cool.
I looked at AAL also, but as others have stated, lead time made the decision easy.
 

JayR13

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Is there a way to add DRL to the quake leds on a Sport S with no DRL’s?
 

Quake LED

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Is there a way to add DRL to the quake leds on a Sport S with no DRL’s?
Our lights are designed to operate the exact same way the factory lights do. Since you have a Sport S you do not have full-time drls, but instead have to manually turn them on like a park light. To do this all you have to do is rotate the lighting dial a single click from the off (O) position and this turns on the single amber bulb in your fender, which would activate the white portion of our light giving you the DRL.

If you don't want to have to manually turn them on and off and want them to be on in the "auto" position on the lighting dial then you have to wire them in separately or program your computer as there isn't a light that can create a power source that wasn't there to begin with.

Wiring them in is actually fairly simple to do and just requires one of our harness adapters that allows you to run the DRL wire straight to the fuse box and piggy back it off of the 12v plug under the head unit (F52 section in fuse box). We could help walk you through this if needed but it is simple to do and DOESNT require cutting or splicing wires.

If you didn't want to wire the drl's into the fuse box the only other way to power them would be to use a computer program like a J-scan or Tazer mini to reprogram the computer to have full time drls.

Let me know if you have any other questions, but the simple answer to your question is YES you can add full time drls to the Sport S.
 

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If you are going to be doing serious rock crawling I advise you to stay away from these. They do not tolerate hits very well and if you rock crawl with factory fenders you WILL smash them eventually. I've got experience with two Jeeps with these and countless replacements.
I highly recommend KBD fenders which still retain the cool bar type light look and you get all four fenders (with the built in LEDs) for roughly the same cost as the chop kit.

https://www.kbdbodykits.com/jeep-wrangler-jl-2018-2021-kits.html
 

Quake LED

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If you are going to be doing serious rock crawling I advise you to stay away from these. They do not tolerate hits very well and if you rock crawl with factory fenders you WILL smash them eventually. I've got experience with two Jeeps with these and countless replacements.
I highly recommend KBD fenders which still retain the cool bar type light look and you get all four fenders (with the built in LEDs) for roughly the same cost as the chop kit.

https://www.kbdbodykits.com/jeep-wrangler-jl-2018-2021-kits.html
@mgroeger ,

Thanks for sharing your experience!

Out of curiosity were they our version of this chop product that did, "not tolerate hits very well?" I only ask because I have heard quite the opposite from customers that I have dealt with. Then again it definitely matters how hard someone smashes their jeep on the trail ...I guess that's why the trail mantra goes, "as slow as possible and as fast as necessary."

Those fenders are definitely better than metal ones that would smash the body of the vehicle, but wouldn't work for some of our customers that are based in states with inspection where the fenders need to cover the entire width of the tire.

We also might have a biased opinion, but we just love the looks of the stock fender, with the light sitting on a flat plane coming 90 degrees straight out of the jeep. Something about it is menacing and aesthetically pleasing to us :)

 

Mac Haik CDJR Georgetown
 
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