Feedback On List of Mods Appriciated

[tntemerson]

My order just delivered to my dealer today:

JLU Sport in Sting Gray, virtually stripped except for the hard top and LSD.

Dealer's installing Mopar 2" lift on Monday ($1675 for the lift and install).

So factory build and lift are now pretty much set in stone.


But next week I’m planning on having my friendly local Jeep builder order and install the following mods, and I’m looking for suggestions, alternatives, admonitions anyone has time and/or interest to supply:


17" 35’s, most likely BFGoodrich Ko2’s. Looked at 'em all. Maybe not perfect, but Ko2 35's are only 66lbs and 315's are just 64lbs, mostly favorably reviewed, street suitable (90% usage), fairly off road capable, claim a strong sidewall, and good in wet or snow. But I'm still OPEN to warnings and alternative suggestions if you've got 'em.

Wheels, most likely Fuel Anza D558 Anthracite with black sim beadlock ring, 17x8.5 4.5 BS, -6 OS. Looked at all of the wheels I could find online as well. Anza D558's were only 25lbs, and seem to look reasonably coordinated to the Sting Gray body color. Besides, EVERYONE has black these days. Again, feedback appreciated.

Smitty Built Spare relocation bracket for the 35's. (It’s a Sport ) Choosing the SB because it's affordable and has solid steel wings for the tire stops. One look and I could see that 3/8" SS bolts, 2.5" trailer door bump stops, washers and several nuts might give me a fully adjustable set of wheel side supports. I literally hung on one at a build the dealership had and it didn't even seem to budge, just the whole body bounced on the rear springs. SB claims it will support up to 35's without gate reinforcement, and rumors have it that the JL gate is already modestly reinforced with heavier hinges and an inner magnesium bracing. Will it hold? I guess we might see.

N-Fab® - Black Rock Rails. These are heavy twin-tube PRACTICAL sliders with REMOVABLE steps. I KNOW. It’s only a Mall Crawling SPORT. But they were only $175 more than the largely non-functional single-tube welded step version, and who knows, maybe someday I might want to re-gear and lock up the m186 and m220 for mid level crawling

If it seems like I'm overly concerned about wheel/tire weights, it's because I'm 71 and it's not so easy to lift up a 120 combo anymore, let alone in a few more years. Life is what it is. I'm retired, so this is not a $60k+ Rubi build, but and it’s what I can afford. This is more of an OLDER life crisis purchase than a mid-life crisis deal. Already did a couple of those.

At any rate, thanks!

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[passingnotes]

also have a sport s though in 2 door. it has 3.45 gearing and so the 35 tires are going to cause performance issues without regearing (which is about 2k)

my advice: get the 33 ko2 in a C rating - that’s what comes on the rubi. i got the new white lettering version in 285/70/17 and they look and ride awesome with zero impact on driving, and zero rubbing - also only 50 pounds versus stock duelers at 46/47 pounds, so easier to move

also, if you go 33, then you do not need that smittbilt bracket for relo! actually bought one and it’s now sitting in my basement still in the box

35 on the sport fender set will also lead to rubbing if you flex at all

as for nfab- love those but there’s no 2 door version yet!

bead lock rims? i’d go “bead lock style” for a mall crawler, not real bead lock. most tow companies and garages won’t touch them for flats, too much headache

best free/cheap mods i’ve done to my own sport s:

- stubby antenna (tons on amazon)
- removed euro close out fender things
- removed plastic air dam along with em!
- plastic dip grill for 12 bucks

also bought the ko2, and waiting on a whole slew of led bulbs to swap out stock halogens in front (fog, turns and headlights)

 

[passingnotes]

btw, if also scratc that mopar lift! the 33 looks good with NO lift and if you’re not off-roading, then save the 2 grand

if you want a similar look, then just buy the well loved rough country 2.5 lift for like 200 bucks and have your local garage throw it on for another 2-300 - and then use the extra grand you saved for a road trip!!!

 

[tntemerson]

btw, if also scratc that mopar lift! the 33 looks good with NO lift and if you’re not off-roading, then save the 2 grand

if you want a similar look, then just buy the well loved rough country 2.5 lift for like 200 bucks and have your local garage throw it on for another 2-300 - and then use the extra grand you saved for a road trip!!!

Thanks for taking the time to reply. I LIKE your two door! Any trouble removing the air dam and euro thingies? Nuts and bolts, or plastic pop in's that need to be pried out? Leave any ugly holes visible? How long did it take?

As for the lift, it's already a done deal and paid for. I also wanted the flexion range of longer springs and the castor angle correction from the Mopar control arms, and having thought it out at least a little, I'll probably put manual sway bar detachments on down the road for max range and movement.

The gearing. Yep, could be a problem with 35's. But even without re-gearing, with 3:45 for the stock JL, 35's still brings the overall back to about 3:23, which is about the same as the 3:21 on the JK with stock 29" tires that came with the base version. Hoping the 268 HP V6 will handle it. Because it's a 6 speed (never owned an auto yet in my 71 years!), I'll be working the gears. Just hoping it won't keep me running around in 3rd too much though! But then I'm approaching this whole build with the idea of probably re-gearing later anyway, with lockers for the m186/m220 once they become competitively available.

It's why I decided on the N-Fab version of the rock rails because the steps are removable, which makes them practical sliders. I'm surprised N-Fab doesn't make the nerf step rails for the two door yet. If you don't plan to set it up for crawling later, it won't matter if you get the kind with the steps welded in. Any of the other manufacturers producing them for the two door?

I'm mostly concerned about getting the most out of tires though. Everything else is largely intended as permanent, but replacing a set of tires is $1500, not $300 like my wife's commuter! How about the Ko2's? Like them? Any wear concerns yet? Handling ok?

At any rate, like your JL. Hope it brings you a lot of fun. How does it handle off road so far? Do you have the LSD? If so how's that working out? Getting through the mild stuff without too much screech and chatter? Just wondering.

 

[mwilk012]

I like my 315/70/R17 C KO2's quite a bit.
Pros: They don't make any noise that I can notice driving down the highway, they look good, and they keep the stock feel of the Jeep. The only other 35's I've seen in load range C were Nitto Ridge Grapplers, which are also good. These should fit well with a 2" lift.

Cons: They are not 35's. They are 34" almost exactly, maybe even less. They are expensive! And, they might not be produced anymore if Ford stops outfitting the F-150 raptor with them out of the factory.

 

[tntemerson]

I like my 315/70/R17 C KO2's quite a bit.
Pros: They don't make any noise that I can notice driving down the highway, they look good, and they keep the stock feel of the Jeep. The only other 35's I've seen in load range C were Nitto Ridge Grapplers, which are also good. These should fit well with a 2" lift.

Cons: They are not 35's. They are 34" almost exactly, maybe even less. They are expensive! And, they might not be produced anymore if Ford stops outfitting the F-150 raptor with them out of the factory.

Hey! Thanks for the feedback.

The Ko2 315's come in C or E, but the 35's are only E's. C's seem a little light for hard off road work, but E's might be too much. If the stats are correct, we're looking at maybe 1/2 inch difference between them. Even the 35's don't seem typically 35 but 34.7 or so, while 315's claim 34.5 (NOT under load on the ground). Such a small difference. Hope that BF keeps making the K02's, as the KO line has been around for 20 years or more. My '94 GMC 4x4 came with them way back when. Have run Yokahama's on it for the last 50k with little complaints. Selling the old goat out for the JKL. Nittos are fully 9 pounds heavier and $40 more. Great rep, but much heavier and more costly. That's if my efforts are accurate.

How are the Ko2's holding up with respect to wear? That's one of the few complaints I see. As ANY 34-35's I choose will likely run between $250 and $350 EACH, I'm just trying to hit the sweet spot out of the gate if I can.

 

[xpsruler]

also have a sport s though in 2 door. it has 3.45 gearing and so the 35 tires are going to cause performance issues without regearing (which is about 2k)

my advice: get the 33 ko2 in a C rating - that’s what comes on the rubi. i got the new white lettering version in 285/70/17 and they look and ride awesome with zero impact on driving, and zero rubbing - also only 50 pounds versus stock duelers at 46/47 pounds, so easier to move

also, if you go 33, then you do not need that smittbilt bracket for relo! actually bought one and it’s now sitting in my basement still in the box

35 on the sport fender set will also lead to rubbing if you flex at all

as for nfab- love those but there’s no 2 door version yet!

bead lock rims? i’d go “bead lock style” for a mall crawler, not real bead lock. most tow companies and garages won’t touch them for flats, too much headache

best free/cheap mods i’ve done to my own sport s:

- stubby antenna (tons on amazon)
- removed euro close out fender things
- removed plastic air dam along with em!
- plastic dip grill for 12 bucks

also bought the ko2, and waiting on a whole slew of led bulbs to swap out stock halogens in front (fog, turns and headlights)

That Jeep looks great with those tires. How is the Sport working with the gearing?

 

[passingnotes]

That Jeep looks great with those tires. How is the Sport working with the gearing?

it honestly feels like i’m driving stock - acceleration is punchy and handling feels smooth aside from occasional dead center in steering (that’s all jeeps though)

haven’t noticed wear issues, though only have 500 miles on them so far - but they look like perfect size for this ride without a lift

as for removing euro and air dam, it was very, very easy - just pop out plugs and remove a few screws. what took. ore time was sawing out the small center piece of euro covers so that i could cover the back of the fog lights again and hide the wiring

also did not get lsd option, so relying on bld to handle any sketchy situations

haven’t done any real off reading yet though took to a wildlife refuge which is more like crazy dirt and rock roads - drives very nice

overall my wife and i love it! 2 door is perfect with kids older and driving, safari mode is awesome when my wife doesn’t want the sun but we want it open all around sides, and backseat is easy to pop out and move crap like it’s a compact suv

 

[xpsruler]

Awesome. I've got a Sport as well and am thinking of going with those exact tires when it comes time to upgrade.

 

[mwilk012]

Hey! Thanks for the feedback.

The Ko2 315's come in C or E, but the 35's are only E's. C's seem a little light for hard off road work, but E's might be too much. If the stats are correct, we're looking at maybe 1/2 inch difference between them. Even the 35's don't seem typically 35 but 34.7 or so, while 315's claim 34.5 (NOT under load on the ground). Such a small difference. Hope that BF keeps making the K02's, as the KO line has been around for 20 years or more. My '94 GMC 4x4 came with them way back when. Have run Yokahama's on it for the last 50k with little complaints. Selling the old goat out for the JKL. Nittos are fully 9 pounds heavier and $40 more. Great rep, but much heavier and more costly. That's if my efforts are accurate.

How are the Ko2's holding up with respect to wear? That's one of the few complaints I see. As ANY 34-35's I choose will likely run between $250 and $350 EACH, I'm just trying to hit the sweet spot out of the gate if I can.

I think you'll find the E's to be too stiff, the JL is pretty lightweight.

 

[PavementWarrior]

also have a sport s though in 2 door. it has 3.45 gearing and so the 35 tires are going to cause performance issues without regearing (which is about 2k)

my advice: get the 33 ko2 in a C rating - that’s what comes on the rubi. i got the new white lettering version in 285/70/17 and they look and ride awesome with zero impact on driving, and zero rubbing - also only 50 pounds versus stock duelers at 46/47 pounds, so easier to move

also, if you go 33, then you do not need that smittbilt bracket for relo! actually bought one and it’s now sitting in my basement still in the box

Looks fantastic, would love to see a few more pictures/angles if you ever get the chance (or garage).

Been debating getting same tires, I have the sport silver rims sadly, so may need to wheels too. Looks like if I get +18 mm offset I will have same backspacing as stock and hopefully not stick out beyond fenders (The no free pull over to the cops setup).

Looks like you hit it perfect, nice wide pattern for offroad, without needing lift or regear (Lifted builds are great dont get me wrong, but they are already well covered)

 

[passingnotes]

just this one other after i dipped the grill. ride is perfect on 33 and stock, zero rubbing, full articulation and smooth with e C rated rubber

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