Falken Wildpeak A/T4W - 35x12.50R17 (E) or 315/70R17 (C)?

[ormandj]

I'm locked in analysis paralysis at this point. Between the Falken Wildpeak A/T4W - 35x12.50R17 (which is load range E) and the 315/70R17 (C) which direction should I go? The 35 is taller and less wide (my preference). I have a JLUR X 4xe, so while heavy, I definitely don't need the extra load carrying capability, even with maximum tongue weight and the vehicle loaded to the gross weight limit.

Has anybody driven both a C and E Wildpeak A/T3W? How big of a difference in ride quality is there between the two? I imagine the A/T4W won't be too different, though from what Falken indicates, the 315/70R17 may actually have the 3-ply duraspec sidewalls now, same as the 35x12.50R17.

I currently have stock Rubicon wheels, but will likely move to wider wheels (17x8.5 Method 703s in +25mm offset since I want to keep them tucked under the XR fender extensions I added) to support these tires. I have 315/70R17 A/T3Ws mounted on the stock wheels (7.5" width) right now, and when cold (32PSI) they are a bit 'squishy', but even still, the chalk test shows the outer tread not making much contact, which may be a function of the wheel width.

I appreciate any insight, reading many threads, I see a lot of "go with C" commentary for various tires, but I didn't see much specifically on this tire, and since sidewall construction varies so much, I figured I'd ask about this specific tire combination (albeit the older A/T3W since the 4s aren't in the wild). Thank you!

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[The Last Cowboy]

A 35x12.50 and a 315 are so similar that the differences are imperceptible if you saw them side by side.

Whichever size you choose, go with C rated for a better all around ride and the E rated if you plan to regularly air down below 15 PSI and traverse rocky terrain. The E will live longer squishing over rocks. The C will ride better on the road.

 

[Gobi2]

C is the way to go. No difference in width between the two tires you mentioned to matter.

 

[theguygrm]

Whichever size you choose, go with C rated for a better all around tire and the E rated if you plan to regularly air down below 15 PSI and traverse rocky terrain. The E will live longer squishing over rocks. The C will ride better on the road.

I disagree with this. My experience is that c and e ride nearly the same on road, but the load range c hooks up much, much better off-road, as it does a better job conforming around rocks and obstacles. I also find the c tires to have better traction in poor weather on road.

My vote: go load range c. While the two tire spec are ~0.4” difference in width and height, the reality is they look identical when sitting next to each other. They are essentially the same size.

 

[ormandj]

Great feedback everyone, seems there is consensus on the 315/70R17. Glad I don't want a 37", they are only made in E. Thank you!

 

[Smokey_The_Rooster]

What's the weight difference? I had E on my JK. Never again. Too heavy and caused wobbles compared to my C. I thought I needed ball joints again but decided to try my old C out again and the jeep drove well. Just my experience but never again. I went E because they were on sale. Both were BFG AT. E rated tired go on my 2500. C for the Jeep.

 

[PotterJLUR]

Both tires are physically the same size side by side, I have had multiple 35's and 315's (not the new AT4W) side by side like K02's ect. and they are identical. If it were me I would be going with the 315's solely for the lighter weight load C tires. I always recommend load C's when possible on builds at our shop for wranglers

 

[Tokenwasp]

Great feedback everyone, seems there is consensus on the 315/70R17. Glad I don't want a 37", they are only made in E. Thank you!

The A/T4W has a 35x11.5 in C (The A/T3W does not have that size). Sounds like that size Would be exactly what you are looking for.

 

[GrayWolf.Overland]

I'm locked in analysis paralysis at this point. Between the Falken Wildpeak A/T4W - 35x12.50R17 (which is load range E) and the 315/70R17 (C) which direction should I go? The 35 is taller and less wide (my preference). I have a JLUR X 4xe, so while heavy, I definitely don't need the extra load carrying capability, even with maximum tongue weight and the vehicle loaded to the gross weight limit.

Has anybody driven both a C and E Wildpeak A/T3W? How big of a difference in ride quality is there between the two? I imagine the A/T4W won't be too different, though from what Falken indicates, the 315/70R17 may actually have the 3-ply duraspec sidewalls now, same as the 35x12.50R17.

I currently have stock Rubicon wheels, but will likely move to wider wheels (17x8.5 Method 703s in +25mm offset since I want to keep them tucked under the XR fender extensions I added) to support these tires. I have 315/70R17 A/T3Ws mounted on the stock wheels (7.5" width) right now, and when cold (32PSI) they are a bit 'squishy', but even still, the chalk test shows the outer tread not making much contact, which may be a function of the wheel width.

I appreciate any insight, reading many threads, I see a lot of "go with C" commentary for various tires, but I didn't see much specifically on this tire, and since sidewall construction varies so much, I figured I'd ask about this specific tire combination (albeit the older A/T3W since the 4s aren't in the wild). Thank you!

Go with C

and if you are considering the 35x11.5r17 C - i have that on my 2024 4xe rubicon with the stock rims, no-lift. Its tucked in and no rubbing even off-road

 

[ormandj]

Go with C

and if you are considering the 35x11.5r17 C - i have that on my 2024 4xe rubicon with the stock rims, no-lift. Its tucked in and no rubbing even off-road

I've already got the 315/70R17 A/T3Ws (LR C) on my '24 4xe but with Method wheels (17x8.5 703s in +25mm offset), I responded in your other thread where you were changing tires suggesting the Falken A/T[34]Ws instead of the R/Ts I think you had. Just waiting on the A/T4Ws to come out and I'll probably swap over. Hope you're enjoying your tires! I had these on the stock wheels and they felt "squishy", but as soon as I went to the 8.5" wheels, the problem was resolved.

 

[GrayWolf.Overland]

I've already got the 315/70R17 A/T3Ws (LR C) on my '24 4xe but with Method wheels (17x8.5 703s in +25mm offset), I responded in your other thread where you were changing tires suggesting the Falkens. Just waiting on the A/T4Ws to come out and I'll probably swap over. Hope you're enjoying your tires! I had these on the stock wheels and they felt "squishy", but as soon as I went to the 8.5" wheels, the problem was resolved.

I'm moving away from the R/Ts and back to KO2s (37 c-rated)

 

[ormandj]

I'm moving away from the R/Ts and back to KO2s (37 c-rated)

You're missing out, I've driven the KO2s back to back with the A/T3Ws, and the Falkens are far better tires, especially in the wet. To each their own, though! They are heavy.

 

[GrayWolf.Overland]

You're missing out, I've driven the KO2s back to back with the A/T3Ws, and the Falkens are far better tires, especially in the wet. To each their own, though! They are heavy.

if they didn't weigh like they are made of lead.. I would have ran At3W/4w :D
KO2 are a bit of a compromise, but a known quantity to me. I'd never say no to a 64lb 37" tire with a decent enough reputation. 85% of my driving is around town and the main reason I moved to a 4xe was the fuel savings.. going to a heavy 37 and requiting regear OR losing all the benefits of 4xe is not something that accrues value to the source of my decision to get a 4xe

 

[ormandj]

if they didn't weigh like they are made of lead.. I would have ran At3W/4w :D
KO2 are a bit of a compromise, but a known quantity to me. I'd never say no to a 64lb 37" tire with a decent enough reputation. 85% of my driving is around town and the main reason I moved to a 4xe was the fuel savings.. going to a heavy 37 and requiting regear OR losing all the benefits of 4xe is not something that accrues value to the source of my decision to get a 4xe

Totally understand where you are coming from, just don't discount the diameter as it plays into the equation more significantly than you might think. I'd rather a heavier 35" than a lighter 37" if fuel economy is your game, and even on the 4xe, I'd be looking at 4.56s or 4.88s for the 37s. Also consider the mounted diameter of the 37" KO2 vs. a 35" MT/Falken/etc. I haven't seen the exact measurements of the others, but I definitely see the KO2s called out for being smaller, in general.

 

[GrayWolf.Overland]

Totally understand where you are coming from, just don't discount the diameter as it plays into the equation more significantly than you might think. I'd rather a heavier 35" than a lighter 37" if fuel economy is your game, and even on the 4xe, I'd be looking at 4.56s or 4.88s for the 37s. Also consider the mounted diameter of the 37" KO2 vs. a 35" MT/Falken/etc. I haven't seen the exact measurements of the others, but I definitely see the KO2s called out for being smaller, in general.

I did some math on this.. while I agree the torsion effect is higher on the 37.. KO2 being more of a 36" tire helps remediate that a bit.. see below

Once you have started moving the 37s off the line, at highway speeds a lighter 37 is better for fuel economy as it takes relatively same amount of effort to sustain the flywheel - where the larger flywheel's momentum preservation is higher too.

Where the 4xe's torque shines is moving those taller tires off the line quick enough to not require a regear upfront. If you keep the unsprung weight per tire to under 100lb if possible, there is a lot to gain on longevity of suspension, and lesser need to re-gear. Mass is an undeniably huge factor in variety of factors - so I ended up optimizing for lower mass, rather than gains in force needed (rotational inertia)

35x12.5r17 D - Falken AT4W or BajaBoss AT	36.5x12.5r17 KO2 C-rated

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