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Factory Mopar Lift Parts and Install Cost?

Mechanick

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LOTS of info on this in multiple threads with numerous opinions both positive and negative. To save you from hours of searching read below what I posted in another thread. Hope it helps.

Here is a write up of my MOPAR kit that I bought on EBAY as well as additional items I have installed from various vendors. I started on 35x12.50r20's but now have 37x13.50r17's. Ride is good for a 37x13.50 AGGRESSIVE mud tire, NO excessive spring BOW and the RK rear spring pads worked really good for better leveling since I am going to be carrying some extra weight in the back. The lift added just a hair over 3" of true lift over stock (not counting tires).

Starting with the MOPAR lift here is a list of components from various sources/vendors along with actual costs (including tax and shipping when applicable). I did my own installation since this is a pretty straight forward "bolt on" project. My plan was to start with the Mopar 2 inch kit and upgrade or add components that I feel "fix" the areas that Mopar didn't get quite right. Of course this is only MY idea of what will work best based on past experience and a LOT of research on the Mopar kit. Besides the crate is really COOL :rock:

  • Mopar JLU 3.6L 2" Lift Kit Part #77072395AC "Baseline kit for the project" Comes in a COOL crate! Sourced on EBAY from seller (everydodgepart) Cost $1,099
  • Fox Factory Race Series 2.0 Performance ATS Steering Stabilizer part #983-02-148. Overkill but sourced on EBAY as NEW unused item out of box from individual for a GREAT price. Cost $265
  • Rock Krawler Front Spring Correction Pad Kit Part #RK06705K. Replacement for Mopar Pads that still seem to be poor quality even in the AC kit. Sourced from River City Offroad Cost $28.50 with JLWF Discount :clap:
  • Rock Krawler Rear Spring Correction Pad Kit Part #06840 Replacements for Mopar pads. Not sure if they are needed but good insurance IMO. Sourced from River City Offroad Cost $16.15 with JLWF Discount :like:
  • Rock Krawler JL Front Adjustable Track Bar Part #RK06187. Replace stock non-adjustable to correctly center axle. Sourced from River City Offroad Cost $182.75 with JLWF Discount :)
  • Rock Krawler JL Rear Track Bar Relocation Bracket Part #RK06718K. To correct rear geometry for better highway handling and overall performance. Note: I may go with the Rock Krawler rear adjustable Track Bar at a later time "if" I am not happy with the stock bar ride quality. Sourced from River City Offroad Cost $84.14 with JLWF Discount :rock:
The total investment for this suspension build was around $1,675 with the upgrade stabilizer. It could be done for $1,410 without. Not bad for starting with the Mopar Kit which gives you Fox Shocks and did I mention a COOL crate :LOL: By adding the few upgrades this ends up being a good affordable lift. Sure there are BETTER lifts available but I seriously doubt a more "complete" kit could be done for the same money.

We have had it out a few times since the install and according to the wife the lift WORKS GREAT! I'm just the spotter/mechanic:)

Thanks to Rock Krawler for helping with my tech questions, the numerous threads here on JLWF, and River City Offroad for the AWESOME JLWF Discount!
Hey How is the ride after this install? Thinking of going down the exact same path, let me know.
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Loki Kai

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Hey How is the ride after this install? Thinking of going down the exact same path, let me know.
Suspension is GREAT. Not completely sold on tires yet. Initially balanced with beads but as they are wearing the balance comes and goes from ok to a bounce to an annoying wobble. Nothing terrible just not as smooth as I would like. Going to spin balance and rotate to see if it helps. Off road its AWESOME.
 

Dean D

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I basically did the same setup exept for the 20" rims. Not sure if this means much but I went with a 35"x12.5x18 wheel setup running Falken Wildpeak AT3's which actually measure 13" wide on a -12 offset rim. To make a long story short the ride is terrible!. I feel every bump and crack in the road and not happy to say the least. My Sons 98 with 3"RC lift and 33x12.5"x 15 MT Baja ATZ3 feels like a dream compared to this thing.
 

Jerrybizzle

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I basically did the same setup exept for the 20" rims. Not sure if this means much but I went with a 35"x12.5x18 wheel setup running Falken Wildpeak AT3's which actually measure 13" wide on a -12 offset rim. To make a long story short the ride is terrible!. I feel every bump and crack in the road and not happy to say the least. My Sons 98 with 3"RC lift and 33x12.5"x 15 MT Baja ATZ3 feels like a dream compared to this thing.
What psi are you running your tires at? Are they e rated tires? If your pressure is above 30 drop it and if you have e rated tires that’s probably part of the problem.
 

Dean D

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Currently they are at 45psi they are E rated. My coworker has the the same exact suspension build but he runs 37” tires on 20s -1 offset at 45psi and it seems to be a smoother ride.
 

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Jerrybizzle

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Currently they are at 45psi they are E rated. My coworker has the the same exact suspension build but he runs 37” tires on 20s -1 offset at 45psi and it seems to be a smoother ride.
Try them at 30psi cold. If you don’t have a tazer to lower tpms threshold that should keep the dash light off and will help the ride significantly. 45 isn’t needed.
 

Dean D

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I have a Super Chip unit to reprogram. I’ll drop the PSI and see what it does. This is my current setup: Jeep 2” Lift with fox shocks, Rock Krawler front pads, Havok 18” wheel with -12 offset mounted to 35”x12.5x18 Falken wildpeak AT3w JKS adjustable front track bar, Rancho rear adjustable track bar, Fox ATS adjustable front stablizer,
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Dean D

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At what point do you start to see too much sidewall flex with this size tire?
 

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Jerrybizzle

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At what point do you start to see too much sidewall flex with this size tire?
Go off of your contact patch more so than sidewall flex in my opinion. I’m running mopar lift, rough country front track bar, super lift rear track bar bracket with 37s at 28 psi and it rides very nice. Not harsh at all. Mine are d rated tires.
You can calculate what psi you need to run for the weight of your vehicle based on max load at max psi of your tires then do your vehicle weight over x.
But id start at between 30-33 which seems to be what most run at.
 

Dean D

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Not sure how that calculation would work but my Rubicon is 4400 pounds and the max air psi is 65psi and tire is rated at 3860pounds.
 

Jerrybizzle

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Not sure how that calculation would work but my Rubicon is 4400 pounds and the max air psi is 65psi and tire is rated at 3860pounds.
Based on weight rating to support that amount of weight you’d only need like 18psi but you don’t want to run that low on the highway obviously. I’d start at 35 or less and see how it feels and see if the tread appears flat (max contact and even wear). Can do a chalk or paint test but that’s more work than most are willing to do.
 
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Rubi VT

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Currently they are at 45psi they are E rated. My coworker has the the same exact suspension build but he runs 37” tires on 20s -1 offset at 45psi and it seems to be a smoother ride.
I also run E rated tires - have the KO2 35 x 12.5. 17. Truck tires, Especially E RATED tires do not wear like car or even SUV tires and any pressure in the 40's is crazy!! thing will float and dart and feel every expansions joint and crack in the road. Shoot for low 30's Right now im at 32 psi cold. they warm up to 34 ish after 10 or 15 minutes. Makes for a much better ride. Remember E rated tires are 10 ply ! You are not going to hurt them buy running lower pressures.
 

Loki Kai

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Since my original post I have went to an X Comp 37x13.5r17. These are the tires that I have a few balance issues with. I run them at 26 PSI. The 20's ran smooth as glass.
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