jbcrane

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After having spent the last month+ working through the rather confusing topic of swapping my stock halogens for the Mopar LED and Fog Light Group, the issue was finally resolved today with a second trip to my (great) dealer. I think I've read through every thread I could find on the topic on this forum and others, and even reached out personally to a few individuals for clarification. My hope is only that this information will help someone coming after me who may face the same issues/questions.

I have a '21 Sport S Unlimited and the LED group was the one thing this guy didn't have that I planned to swap out from the beginning. I know there are other after market lighting solutions out there, but for better or worse I'm an OEM kind of guy and the lights had to be the production LED head lamps. I also bought an extended warranty when I purchased the vehicle and am up front with my dealer with any questions or concerns regarding warranty.

I purchased the Mopar LED Headlight kit (part number: 82215136AE) from BAM at a price of $749.25, free shipping UPS ground, and the LED fog lamp kit for another $224 plus $8 shipping USPS. The headlights arrived in a large box containing two individual boxes, each with one head lamp 'suspended' between two plastic sheets to avoid impact damage. They were very well packed, even against UPS' rather unkind treatment of packages. The LED Fog lamps were packed well enough in a smaller box and sent in the mail with no damage.

After receiving the lights I did a little research and determined that even someone like me (not a mechanic, but I do the best I can) could probably put them in. Before doing so, though, I made a trip to my dealer with the Mopar part number and my VIN number and had them double check they would work. Confirming they would, I then asked if installing them myself would damage my warranty. "No, as long as they are installed properly," was the reply. Installing the LED headlamps was easy. The many-page instructions were clear - most pages pertaining to the additional wire harness running to the BCM - WHICH YOU DO NOT NEED WITH A '21 VEHICLE. So you remove the front grill assembly, unbolt three bolts holding each halogen lamp assembly in, unplug the harness, fasten the same connector to the LED plug then bolt the new LED assemblies in. Super easy. The fog lights were actually more difficult than the head lamps because of the Sport's front pieces between the fender and bumper, and the fasteners used to hold them in place (but that's another topic)

Once everything was installed I turned on the Jeep and things seemed to be working. Fog lamps produced light, headlamps produced light on low-beams, but high-beams there was a sharp cut-off at the bottom half of the illuminated field - the road in front is completely dark, but the horizon is illuminated. Clearly not right. Off to the dealer we go for the planned flash.

There are two codes the dealer needs to add to your VIN as a "dealer installed option" through their software: LPX for the LED headlamps, and LNV for the LED Fog Lamps. During the first dealer flash - for whatever reason only the LNV code for fog lights was added. When I got the Jeep back there were still no halos, and my high beams were behaving exactly the same as they had before: strong illumination at top of range, complete darkness on bottom. So a second trip to the dealer revealed the problem: for what ever reason the LPX code for the headlamps had not been entered. Once this code was entered, along with LNV for fog lamps, everything worked perfectly. Halos, high-beams, fog lamps, everything. It's a beautiful sight.

There is a third code, LPY that enables the Halo lamps, but is intended for LED side marker lights too and causes problems with the non-LED side marker package that comes standard on my Sport S. When they add this code the blinker indicators on the dash freak out. Removing the code fixed the issue. The dealer flash cost $138 ($120 plus $18 shop fee), bringing my LED package total to $1,119.25 - actually just below the $1,145 currently listed on the Jeep web site build ap.

Was it worth it? Without a doubt, heck yeh - absolutely. There's a significant difference between halogen and LED. I do a lot of highway driving, often times at night. Especially in the mountains, and throughout the West and Midwest, deer on the road are the single biggest reason for me to throw as much light ahead as possible, and the main reason for the swap. I believe that anything that can be done should be done to reduce the chances of hitting deer on the road. Not just for you and your's sake, but the deer's sake too.

My dealer (Fort Collins Jeep) was and is great to work with. Yes, it took two trips to get it right. But it's not a super common thing yet and they were figuring it out too. They were super accommodating, helpful and easy to work with. I couldn't be happier with them, my lights or my Wrangler. There was of course no charge for the second trip to reflash.

One more thing about JSCAN, TAZRS, etc. I read a lot about others taking this approach. If the dealer flash didn't work for some reason it was perhaps a backup plan. But in keeping with the OEM/Dealer/Warranty-honoring ethos, my strong desire was to keep the whole project with nothing to hide, no questions and within bounds, so to speak.

So for anyone else out there who finds this thread because they are thinking of doing the same thing, hopefully this will help clear up confusion. Much depends on the year of your Wrangler, and (I think) to a lesser extent the trim level. My '21 Sport S has the 4th wire running to the plug from the harness so I hoped it would work. It did, and I did not need to install the extra harness provided in the kit. This is my first Jeep and I've already done more on it in the first 4 months of ownership than any other car in my many years. So tearing my fender off and plugging wires into the control module was just a little out of my comfort zone. I know some of you guys can do it with your eyes closed. Not me....

Hope this helps.
Peace, JBC
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niJL

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Wouldn’t it be worth the extra $25 to order it from the factory to get the LED front turn signals, and halos working? (Also, does that package include the rear LED tail lights? I know it does in the Rubicon, but not sure on the Sport S.)
 

rjazorx

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I did the switch from halogens to full oem led all around and used a tazer to activate them on my 21 JLU Sahara. If I got my dealer to flash the “LPY” code, would everything work properly (including the led drls/side markers) since I have the full led setup? I’ve heard people having issues getting the actual led drls to work with a dealer flash. I’m contemplating of having the dealer flash my Jeep to avoid having to unmarry the tazer every time I go in for service.
 
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jbcrane

jbcrane

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Wouldn’t it be worth the extra $25 to order it from the factory to get the LED front turn signals, and halos working? (Also, does that package include the rear LED tail lights? I know it does in the Rubicon, but not sure on the Sport S.)
Hi Brandon,
Yes it would. I intended to order my Wrangler and have him built with the LED's, but this one was en route when I visited the dealer in mid-April, and aside from the the LED's was exactly how I had set him up on line, so went with it. I didn't see the need to wait another 6+ weeks.

When I configured him using the on line tool, adding the LED Group provided the head lamps and fog lamps, but not the turn indicators or tail lights. I may add tail lights one day, but I'm good with the turn indicators how they are, unless I switch to a sent of painted fenders some day, then I may re-think it. Thanks for your question.
JBC
 

niJL

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Hi Brandon,
Yes it would. I intended to order my Wrangler and have him built with the LED's, but this one was en route when I visited the dealer in mid-April, and aside from the the LED's was exactly how I had set him up on line, so went with it. I didn't see the need to wait another 6+ weeks.

When I configured him using the on line tool, adding the LED Group provided the head lamps and fog lamps, but not the turn indicators or tail lights. I may add tail lights one day, but I'm good with the turn indicators how they are, unless I switch to a sent of painted fenders some day, then I may re-think it. Thanks for your question.
JBC
If the package didn't come with any additional lights then your way is definitely a great option!

Thanks for putting together such an easy to read write up.
 
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jbcrane

jbcrane

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I did the switch from halogens to full oem led all around and used a tazer to activate them on my 21 JLU Sahara. If I got my dealer to flash the “LPY” code, would everything work properly (including the led drls/side markers) since I have the full led setup? I’ve heard people having issues getting the actual led drls to work with a dealer flash. I’m contemplating of having the dealer flash my Jeep to avoid having to unmarry the tazer every time I go in for service.
Hey Ryan,

From where I sit, I'd say it's worth a trip to the dealer to answer that question. If they're anything like mine, they'll work to help you answer it. I don't know what will happen... but I know this: I'd get tired of trying to remember to marry and unmarry something all the time to keep my Wrangler running properly. But that's just me - and what was largely behind the decision to go the route I did.

A trip to the dealer ran $138. Don't know what a Tazr costs...

Thanks for your question and good luck.
JBC
 

turbosix

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I did the switch from halogens to full oem led all around and used a tazer to activate them on my 21 JLU Sahara. If I got my dealer to flash the “LPY” code, would everything work properly (including the led drls/side markers) since I have the full led setup? I’ve heard people having issues getting the actual led drls to work with a dealer flash. I’m contemplating of having the dealer flash my Jeep to avoid having to unmarry the tazer every time I go in for service.
you should not need to unmarry the tazer every time. it shouldn't affect your warranty because it's not causing any harm.
 

rjazorx

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you should not need to unmarry the tazer every time. it shouldn't affect your warranty because it's not causing any harm.
I read somewhere that it screws up your system if the dealer reflashes it for updates or something
 

missionale

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I did the same as you - and it was very easy - purchased a 2021 Sport S and bought my LED headlights from Athens Dodge (amazing for online OEM parts) and did the swap - easy install since wire harness includes 4th wire now - down to dealer for flash and done. Everything works as advertised - purchased OEM stubby bumper w/LEDs so all set - saved around $300 this way - and of course the labor is free.....
 

bless0

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I have a 21 Sahara that has the safety group package that comes with LED tail lights. yesterday i replaced my stock halogen headlights with the iron cross LED headlights. It was a simple plug and play replacement and everything seems to work ok. there was a 4th wire on the adapter that came with the iron cross lights but i have no idea what it is for. Also these headlights have 2 amber rows on the top and bottom and not sure what they are used for. I plan on upgrading the fog and DRL lights as well. Will i need a flash for those?
 
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jbcrane

jbcrane

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I have a 21 Sahara that has the safety group package that comes with LED tail lights. yesterday i replaced my stock halogen headlights with the iron cross LED headlights. It was a simple plug and play replacement and everything seems to work ok. there was a 4th wire on the adapter that came with the iron cross lights but i have no idea what it is for. Also these headlights have 2 amber rows on the top and bottom and not sure what they are used for. I plan on upgrading the fog and DRL lights as well. Will i need a flash for those?
Hi Steve,

Sorry, but I'd have no way of knowing. If you do the Mopar LED fogs, I'd think so... but they seemed to work for me before the flash too, so it's hard to know. The DRL's are something I know little about, outside the halos of the OEM LED's. My turn indicator/side markers are not from the LED package and I don't have plans to change them.

Best of luck,
JBC
 

Yaak392

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After having spent the last month+ working through the rather confusing topic of swapping my stock halogens for the Mopar LED and Fog Light Group, the issue was finally resolved today with a second trip to my (great) dealer. I think I've read through every thread I could find on the topic on this forum and others, and even reached out personally to a few individuals for clarification. My hope is only that this information will help someone coming after me who may face the same issues/questions.

I have a '21 Sport S Unlimited and the LED group was the one thing this guy didn't have that I planned to swap out from the beginning. I know there are other after market lighting solutions out there, but for better or worse I'm an OEM kind of guy and the lights had to be the production LED head lamps. I also bought an extended warranty when I purchased the vehicle and am up front with my dealer with any questions or concerns regarding warranty.

I purchased the Mopar LED Headlight kit (part number: 82215136AE) from BAM at a price of $749.25, free shipping UPS ground, and the LED fog lamp kit for another $224 plus $8 shipping USPS. The headlights arrived in a large box containing two individual boxes, each with one head lamp 'suspended' between two plastic sheets to avoid impact damage. They were very well packed, even against UPS' rather unkind treatment of packages. The LED Fog lamps were packed well enough in a smaller box and sent in the mail with no damage.

After receiving the lights I did a little research and determined that even someone like me (not a mechanic, but I do the best I can) could probably put them in. Before doing so, though, I made a trip to my dealer with the Mopar part number and my VIN number and had them double check they would work. Confirming they would, I then asked if installing them myself would damage my warranty. "No, as long as they are installed properly," was the reply. Installing the LED headlamps was easy. The many-page instructions were clear - most pages pertaining to the additional wire harness running to the BCM - WHICH YOU DO NOT NEED WITH A '21 VEHICLE. So you remove the front grill assembly, unbolt three bolts holding each halogen lamp assembly in, unplug the harness, fasten the same connector to the LED plug then bolt the new LED assemblies in. Super easy. The fog lights were actually more difficult than the head lamps because of the Sport's front pieces between the fender and bumper, and the fasteners used to hold them in place (but that's another topic)

Once everything was installed I turned on the Jeep and things seemed to be working. Fog lamps produced light, headlamps produced light on low-beams, but high-beams there was a sharp cut-off at the bottom half of the illuminated field - the road in front is completely dark, but the horizon is illuminated. Clearly not right. Off to the dealer we go for the planned flash.

There are two codes the dealer needs to add to your VIN as a "dealer installed option" through their software: LPX for the LED headlamps, and LNV for the LED Fog Lamps. During the first dealer flash - for whatever reason only the LNV code for fog lights was added. When I got the Jeep back there were still no halos, and my high beams were behaving exactly the same as they had before: strong illumination at top of range, complete darkness on bottom. So a second trip to the dealer revealed the problem: for what ever reason the LPX code for the headlamps had not been entered. Once this code was entered, along with LNV for fog lamps, everything worked perfectly. Halos, high-beams, fog lamps, everything. It's a beautiful sight.

There is a third code, LPY that enables the Halo lamps, but is intended for LED side marker lights too and causes problems with the non-LED side marker package that comes standard on my Sport S. When they add this code the blinker indicators on the dash freak out. Removing the code fixed the issue. The dealer flash cost $138 ($120 plus $18 shop fee), bringing my LED package total to $1,119.25 - actually just below the $1,145 currently listed on the Jeep web site build ap.

Was it worth it? Without a doubt, heck yeh - absolutely. There's a significant difference between halogen and LED. I do a lot of highway driving, often times at night. Especially in the mountains, and throughout the West and Midwest, deer on the road are the single biggest reason for me to throw as much light ahead as possible, and the main reason for the swap. I believe that anything that can be done should be done to reduce the chances of hitting deer on the road. Not just for you and your's sake, but the deer's sake too.

My dealer (Fort Collins Jeep) was and is great to work with. Yes, it took two trips to get it right. But it's not a super common thing yet and they were figuring it out too. They were super accommodating, helpful and easy to work with. I couldn't be happier with them, my lights or my Wrangler. There was of course no charge for the second trip to reflash.

One more thing about JSCAN, TAZRS, etc. I read a lot about others taking this approach. If the dealer flash didn't work for some reason it was perhaps a backup plan. But in keeping with the OEM/Dealer/Warranty-honoring ethos, my strong desire was to keep the whole project with nothing to hide, no questions and within bounds, so to speak.

So for anyone else out there who finds this thread because they are thinking of doing the same thing, hopefully this will help clear up confusion. Much depends on the year of your Wrangler, and (I think) to a lesser extent the trim level. My '21 Sport S has the 4th wire running to the plug from the harness so I hoped it would work. It did, and I did not need to install the extra harness provided in the kit. This is my first Jeep and I've already done more on it in the first 4 months of ownership than any other car in my many years. So tearing my fender off and plugging wires into the control module was just a little out of my comfort zone. I know some of you guys can do it with your eyes closed. Not me....

Hope this helps.
Peace, JBC
Here in Montana our auto insurance rates are higher because of the number of deer strikes. I've been T- boned by a deer with attitude. (really) 40 mph on a mountain road minding on own business. Bull bars will protect you radiator and engine and allow you to get to where you need to be.
Good luck.
 
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jbcrane

jbcrane

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Here in Montana our auto insurance rates are higher because of the number of deer strikes. I've been T- boned by a deer with attitude. (really) 40 mph on a mountain road minding on own business. Bull bars will protect you radiator and engine and allow you to get to where you need to be.
Good luck.
Thanks Dennis. Yeh, here out west it’s a real thing. Having seen far too much of it in my driving it’s always horrible. I was T-boned by a doe a few years back. As she slid down the side of the car after denting my front left quarter panel, her head lopped off my driver’s side rear view mirror. She got up and ran off. I’ve taken to avoiding driving after dark if possible. But when you have to, you have to. Bull bars are on my list of next things
 

TheRealTVGuy

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All you guys doing it in your ‘21s don’t know the pain of running the halo wire to the BCM in a 2018. I got it working, but only after laying upside down in the front passenger seat with my arms over my head up into the glovebox area.

Lucky bastids. 🤣
 
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