Factory Alpine upgrade

[debandi]

The goal was clean power and clear sound.
Alpine R-A60F
Alpine R-S65c.2 for the sound bar
Alpine R-S65c.2 for the lower dash speakers
SSV Works JJT-SA065 for the sound bar
Mettra JP-1014 speaker pods for the lower dash
All new speaker wire
PAC Amp Pro AP4-CH41 (R.2) amplifier interface
I ordered a set of Hertz dash speakers but did not use them.
I removed the dash speakers all together
Total install took just over 60 hours. I took my time and had no reason to rush. Power cables are on the drivers side. Speaker wire is on the passenger side. I have a proximity key, so I did change a few things as it relates to the PAC Pro. The proximity key keeps the data bus active and the blue wire to turn on the amp was keeping the amp powered up. I did a fuse tap to fuse F58 (heated Seat) to the fuse box. This triggers the amp only when I turn the Jeep on. The Pac Pro module is up behind the glove box and zip tied to make sure it is not in contact with the heater core. The heater core gets very hot and I wanted to make sure the module was as far away from the heater core as possible. Dip switch 2 is on to lower the pre out to 4V.
Crossover Mode on the new amp is set to "HP" . (The new amp is only driving mid range and tweeters)
The original factory amp is driving the factory subwoofer only.
The sound is clean / crisp and no engine noise. It was fun project and the sound is amazing.
https://www.alpine-usa.com/promo/speakers-amps-subs-rebate

Sponsored

 

[ziff73]

about to venture down a similar path. how does the sound compare to that of your factory setup?

hadn't heard about the proximity key issue (i have that as well).

to keep the factory sub in tact, how did you do the harness connection?

with the SSV mod on the soundbar, how much lower do the speakers hang from stock?

thanks.

 

[debandi]

The sound is 300% better than the little 4" factory speakers. The factory sub is untouched and still driven via the original factory amp. The harness connection is the PAC Amp Pro AP4-CH41 (R.2) amplifier interface via two 6' rca cables going to the new amp. 100W RMS x 4 pushing the 100W RMS matched component speakers. Never had to cut/splice a single wire. Magic happens when you match the RMS out put power between the amp and speakers. It's 45kHz range making the system compliant with high resolution audio. No noticeable difference in the sound bar speakers being lower than factory speakers. If I can help in anyway let me know.

 

[ziff73]

The sound is 300% better than the little 4" factory speakers. The factory sub is untouched and still driven via the original factory amp. The harness connection is the PAC Amp Pro AP4-CH41 (R.2) amplifier interface via two 6' rca cables going to the new amp. 100W RMS x 4 pushing the 100W RMS matched component speakers. Never had to cut/splice a single wire. Magic happens when you match the RMS out put power between the amp and speakers. It's 45kHz range making the system compliant with high resolution audio. No noticeable difference in the sound bar speakers being lower than factory speakers. If I can help in anyway let me know.

when you say two RCA cables, are you only sending the front channels? 1&2 and not 1-4?

where did you mount your passive crossover?

did you rewire with new speaker wire or feed the speaker wires from the amp back to the harness and tap into the existing speaker wire?

 

[debandi]

No speaker wire goes to the harness. I used all new speaker wire. No cutting and no splicing of any wires. One RCA cable set for the front channel and one RCA cable set for the rear channel. They feed from the PAC module to the new amp.

 

[ziff73]

got it. all 4 channels. out of curiosity, how did you determine the proximity key was the issue?

 

[debandi]

I called the peeps at PAC support and they were super helpful. The actual challenge was finding a Micro fuse tap. Had to order it from Amazon. No local auto parts stores had a micro fuse tap. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LFXA5YQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

[debandi]

You may not have the same issue I did. It will be interesting to see what happens with your install

 

[ziff73]

cool, and you just route that along with your amp power cable from the engine compartment back to the cabin?

also i think F21 is the rear wiper? F57 /F58 is heated seats.

 

[debandi]

Good catch on that. It is F58. I'll correct my typo and get you a picture of the amp power cable

 

[ziff73]

cool, would be good to see which direction the tap goes when inserted into the fuse block.suppose i could just use a volt meter too ...

 

[debandi]

This is an automatic transmission. You have a rubber grommet in the upper driver side firewall. Nothing could be easier to be honest. The micro fuse tap has still not arrived. Amazon is just covered up and doing the best they can. A friend of mine is an electrician. We made a temporary fuse tap with an in line fuse going to Fuse #58. Remember you may not have to do this. Just letting you know what I did to make the install the way I wanted it to be.

 

[ziff73]

Thanks!

 

[pcpopcorn]

Is the amp under your passenger seat?
And are those the tweeters from the New Alpines?Nice install did you just drill a hole for fitment?
Any Regrets?
I am considering the same set up but just unsure if I should have a different sub built for the back of my 2 door like JL Audio for the JK's

 

[debandi]

The amp is under the driver seat. Much easier as it relates to the large power cable through the upper driver side fire wall on an automatic transmission configuration. Yes that is the new tweeter in the original factory dash speaker covers. Takes two seconds with the correct hole saw drill bit. thanks for the kind words. Let me know if I can help in anyway.

Sponsored