Exact Center is a steering stabilizer new for Jeeps

[YippieKiYayMrFalcon]

I am also using the synergy bracket. Are you noticing a difference after reinstalling the stock stabilizer as well?

Ha ha... yeah same thing when I was 'tuning' mine as well.

Yes, much better with the stock stabilizer back on and the EC installed on the synergy bracket.

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[Roky]

You guys that are putting additional stabilizer on….. why ? Shimmy, DW, bumpsteer…… And do you have stock tie rod and drag link ? There’s nothing on my steering that is stock, and I don’t have any movement in steering wheel at all, rock solid…. I had a little shimmy show up last week, but that was my track bar, after I rebuilt it all is well again……… it just doesn’t make sense to me that you’d need the extra stabilizer unless there’s an underlying problem, like oem linkages are to light weight, and bushings are to soft……..

 

[proptied]

You guys that are putting additional stabilizer on….. why ? Shimmy, DW, bumpsteer…… And do you have stock tie rod and drag link ? There’s nothing on my steering that is stock, and I don’t have any movement in steering wheel at all, rock solid…. I had a little shimmy show up last week, but that was my track bar, after I rebuilt it all is well again……… it just doesn’t make sense to me that you’d need the extra stabilizer unless there’s an underlying problem, like oem linkages are to light weight, and bushings are to soft……..

Stock tie rod and drag link here. Posted about it a few weeks ago: tried a 140 and got DW. Moved up to a 160 a few days ago and still get it, but less so. I’m not willing to go any higher yet, and I’m not willing to add the OEM stabilizer back on either.

Beefier linkages are incoming for me… it seems if people are having issues with 33-35, and even completely stock, it’s understandable with my 37s. I’m amazed how much the OEM stabilizer masks the problem. I think EC mentioned it earlier, OEM just has way higher DW stopping power.

 

[Levin_tom]

Any recommendations on where to mount the EC stabilizer on a metalcloak tie rod?

 

[LT1]

metalcloak tie rod

Tom, there are a few photos on/near page 55 of this thread. And the MC website shows photos of mounting to their tie rod with brackets available.

https://metalcloak.com/jl-wrangler-...-chromoly-dog-legged-replacement-tie-rod.html

Excellent question BTW.. I will be installing my EC this week.

 

[Exact Center]

Exact Center takes on very high winds in the RV
I just returned from an 8-day trip in RV and today was my first drive in my JL for 10 days. Man do I ever notice the difference between a very good RV and a very sporty JL. The JL is a sports car in every way except the name. It is fast (392 Hemi), it is dead flat on turns, and with a 135 EC, the steering is just like the many Corvettes I have owned and my wife's Lincoln Aviator. It is a fun driver. I do not take it off-road even though I live on a 350-acre ex-ski resort with 10 miles of great trails. There I use my CanAm Defender 1000 limited with heat and air. With the CanAm, I do not mind rubbing thorns and brush or climbing over downed trees, but it would kill me to abuse the JL the same way. It is a hot-rod that will not be going off-road. I am sure it would be great, but for now, that is not something I am willing to do.
The RV a 2021 Dynamax Isata 5 31'-2" LG on a Ram HD 5500 4WD chassis and the 21000 GVWR was tested by high winds for most of the 8 days. We went from Northern Michigan West by I-94 to Deadwood South Dakota and then South through and around Rushmore.
If you have not driven from Deadwood to the Black Hills/Rushmore you should do it in something you like to drive. On the trip, I did not pull the JL due to some wiring issues with the FCA kit (plug and play we used) and the truth is we did not go to even one campground so towing would have been a waste. The RV has an Exact Center 300LB Centering stabilizer. The winds we very high, reports were the Black Hills had gusts of 100 mph, we saw high winds, but I do not think anything near 100mph. On the I-90 return trip, we did camp at a Walmart in North Dakota and woke up to very serious rocking from the wind gusts that might have been over 40mph. On some of our trip, we did have a great tailwind, especially Eastbound, and on the whole trip, we saw as high as 14+ mpg and actually averaged 12.6 mpg for 3000 miles on our 21000 GVWR with Cummins 6.7 diesel. The 300lb EC did its job and we never had to do much in corrective steering. A good hold was required when we had side winds, but for the most part, driving it was much better than I have ever seen on most of my previous RVs in similar high winds. (Note for most of the last 20+ years I have had a similar, but not as good stabilizer on my RVs). Also, I have to report I have crossed the Mackinaw bridge (5 miles long) 4 times and 3 times the ESC was tripped by steering angle. As I understand it, the computer thinks you are in a skid (steering angle stays turned to counterwind) (or something and tries to correct). The issue is when it does engage ESC it will not let you use adaptive cruise, normal cruise, skid control, and ?? The Ram dealer in Escanaba in the UP sent a tech to the parking lot and in a minute had realigned the steering and reset ESC. That lasted till I crossed the bridge again on way back. Without that friendly dealer from the UP, I am trying to buy a scanner that will let me reset DIY. Disconnecting the battery for over 30 minutes did nothing this time.
Roadmaster is starting to sell Exact Center for RVs. We have several tests ongoing. Once someone spends time behind the wheel with EC on a Jeep or RV few will want to go without the same. I tell all new users to drive a couple of weeks or more to get the real feel of the device, it is different, but soon I think you will agree it is a good difference.
For info on EC contact [email protected] or call 8-4 EST 1-989-448-2501 Tony

 

[Papa John]

I'm running the 110 and stock stabilizer and it seems to be a great combo for me. I also tow my jeep with an rv.

Can the stock stabilizer go on the relocation bracket with the EC in the lower stock position or does it matter?

 

[YippieKiYayMrFalcon]

Can the stock stabilizer go on the relocation bracket with the EC in the lower stock position or does it matter?

I don’t see why not but why would you? If you’re going to run both, I’d leave the factory stabilizer where it’s meant to be

 

[Exact Center]

Can the stock stabilizer go on the relocation bracket with the EC in the lower stock position or does it matter?

Papa John
I would think the result will be the same. Send us pictures of the damper and our unit installed.
Do you think that is easier to do? I have a JLUR 392 XR and just have the EC at the factory location.
What bracket are you going to use for relocation?
For more info on EC contact [email protected] or call 8-4 EST 1-989-448-2501 Tony

 

[RubiRob]

Stock tie rod and drag link here. Posted about it a few weeks ago: tried a 140 and got DW. Moved up to a 160 a few days ago and still get it, but less so. I’m not willing to go any higher yet, and I’m not willing to add the OEM stabilizer back on either.

Beefier linkages are incoming for me… it seems if people are having issues with 33-35, and even completely stock, it’s understandable with my 37s. I’m amazed how much the OEM stabilizer masks the problem. I think EC mentioned it earlier, OEM just has way higher DW stopping power.

Take off the EC and drive without it. If the DW is gone or better, you might have a bad unit. I know the EC I had made my steering wobble worse than before.

 

[proptied]

Take off the EC and drive without it. If the DW is gone or better, you might have a bad unit. I know the EC I had made my steering wobble worse than before.

Nah, it's my setup. I've ran with a 140, 160, none at all, and OEM. OEM stabilizer is the only thing that hid the DW. I'm at about 4000 miles.

Got some beefy steering on the way and will try again after those are installed.

 

[RubiRob]

Nah, it's my setup. I've ran with a 140, 160, none at all, and OEM. OEM stabilizer is the only thing that hid the DW. I'm at about 4000 miles.

Got some beefy steering on the way and will try again after those are installed.

what’s your alignment like?

 

[proptied]

what’s your alignment like?

6.4-6.6 caster, 1/16" toe in. Everything is re-torqued. Track bar bolts replaced with G8 fine thread. Pretty much gone through the entire list. Now I'm on to replacing components.

 

[Exact Center]

JLR user has a big problem with factory stabilizer in mud and cold weather.
Exact Center Tony did a JL install on a Jeep where the stock stabilizer filled with mud distorted and froze solid overnight locking up the steering. He installed a new EC 140 on the 2022 JLR 2dr with 35s.
The owner could not turn the steering to the right as the compression of the unit was highly limited. To continue to drive he had to remove the factory stabilizer.
The picture is after thawed out with the mud removed. Note the plastic cover is strong enough to stop turning. It is much stiffer than any boot. and it is not sealed so mud was stuck inside. The night of the drive the JLR could still turn as we assume the mud would give, but in the morning after it must have been stiff or frozen and then limited tie-rod and stabilizer travel.
For info on EC contact [email protected] or call 8-4 EST 1-989-448-2501 Tony

 

[RubiRob]

6.4-6.6 caster, 1/16" toe in. Everything is re-torqued. Track bar bolts replaced with G8 fine thread. Pretty much gone through the entire list. Now I'm on to replacing components.

Try 1/8 toe out. Best change I’ve done based on what Steersmarts recommends. I’m running 5.8 caster on 38s as well.

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