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Jason
We are working on a bandaid to give a bit more damping for guys like you that still have a bit of an issue with 140. The easy answer is if you are willing to do the factory location stabilizer or if you are creative and can find a place to mount it elsewhere.
As a possible fix, we are working on a piggyback damper for the 140.
Another possible answer is, that Tony can kick you up to 160 if you want to try.
Factory and after-market stabilizers are about 20-30 pounds resistance at normal turns but on a hard impact, they jump up to over 200 lbs. That hit takes you above the 140 protection so maybe 160 would be an answer. A better answer would be to find the cause of the DW, I do understand that is not so easy. Something is loose somewhere, but so hard to find.
email [email protected] or call weekdays 8-4 EST 1-989-448-2501
Jason see your email
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YippieKiYayMrFalcon

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Moved my EC up to above the tie rod using the synergy bracket and track bar stud and added the stock stabilizer back...definitely a winner. Only have a days worth of driving so far, but it feels right.

I was much less fortunate with the adjusting this time, took me about 5 tries. Got some weird looks from neighbors hanging out in their yards seeing me pass by so many times lol.
 

Exact Center

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Moved my EC up to above the tie rod using the synergy bracket and track bar stud and added the stock stabilizer back...definitely a winner. Only have a days worth of driving so far, but it feels right.

I was much less fortunate with the adjusting this time, took me about 5 tries. Got some weird looks from neighbors hanging out in their yards seeing me pass by so many times lol.
Do tell us about your experience on the 2nd day you drive and do go out and drive a lot. Tell us about how you do in the wind. Roky I think said that was his biggest surprise that is how the wind seemed to go away. I call it EC canceling the wind. My 135 is amazing in the wind so far I have not found a wind that has moved me. I can feel a push, but never a steering correction yet. My RV has a 300 EC, that is a upgrade from a 220 EC, but Friday I needed the 400 EC. I have one, but we have to redesign the brackets as they were not strong enough for the 400, they were bending and did not allow us to get to Exact Center.
If you need help email [email protected] or call weekdays 8-4 EST 1-989-448-2501
 

Punkindug

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Moved my EC up to above the tie rod using the synergy bracket and track bar stud and added the stock stabilizer back...definitely a winner. Only have a days worth of driving so far, but it feels right.

I was much less fortunate with the adjusting this time, took me about 5 tries. Got some weird looks from neighbors hanging out in their yards seeing me pass by so many times lol.
Would you share the vendor & part #'s for the synergy bracket and track bar stud? I am thinking about adding back the stabilizer too. A picture too of your final setup would be GREATLY appreciated!
 

YippieKiYayMrFalcon

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Would you share the vendor & part #'s for the synergy bracket and track bar stud? I am thinking about adding back the stabilizer too. A picture too of your final setup would be GREATLY appreciated!
I’m out for the night but will grab a picture tomorrow. There’s one a few pages back of someone with the same setup.

Amazon was the only place I found it in stock. Just be sure to pick OEM if you have the factory tie rod.

You may also need a few (4) 1/2” washers since the bushings are so small on the EC.

JL/JLU/JT Steering Stabilizer Relocation Kit by Synergy MFG (1 5/8" Dia. (OEM Tie Rod)) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B089LCNP4S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_1T36AC2AN3FS6BKBRYYZ?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
 

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Punkindug

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I’m out for the night but will grab a picture tomorrow. There’s one a few pages back of someone with the same setup.

Amazon was the only place I found it in stock. Just be sure to pick OEM if you have the factory tie rod.

You may also need a few (4) 1/2” washers since the bushings are so small on the EC.

JL/JLU/JT Steering Stabilizer Relocation Kit by Synergy MFG (1 5/8" Dia. (OEM Tie Rod)) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B089LCNP4S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_1T36AC2AN3FS6BKBRYYZ?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Thanks! Just ordered.
 

JeepinJason33

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Jason
We are working on a bandaid to give a bit more damping for guys like you that still have a bit of an issue with 140. The easy answer is if you are willing to do the factory location stabilizer or if you are creative and can find a place to mount it elsewhere.
As a possible fix, we are working on a piggyback damper for the 140.
Another possible answer is, that Tony can kick you up to 160 if you want to try.
Factory and after-market stabilizers are about 20-30 pounds resistance at normal turns but on a hard impact, they jump up to over 200 lbs. That hit takes you above the 140 protection so maybe 160 would be an answer. A better answer would be to find the cause of the DW, I do understand that is not so easy. Something is loose somewhere, but so hard to find.
email [email protected] or call weekdays 8-4 EST 1-989-448-2501
A piggyback is a good idea, I will take a look at seeing where I could possibly mount that. That would be the best of both worlds as I really liked the way the wheels quickly return to center. The Jeep dealership, a pro shop, and I have all torn the front end apart and put it back together to try to find any loose item that could be causing the slight death wobble. It recovers quickly and is not enough to have to slow the vehicle down, but it is annoying and would concern me if I was towing. The AEV probably jumps to over 200 and that is why it masks it fairly well.
 

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So I finally install the 140# EC yesterday on the Synergy relocation bracket (kept the OEM stabilizer at the OEM location) so I'm running this combo right now. I never had DW issues before and my steering wander just a little bit. I'm on stock rubicon suspension with stock rubicon take off wheels and the updated steering box.

First impression is that the wheel definitely returns back to center much better than before. The steer feels a bit firmer on turns but the dead spot is still there. I think I need a bit more adjustment as it tends to pull right ever so slight. It does wander a bit less but it still there - I may have to give it more testing time on different types of roads. So far I"m happy with the steering feel and having to do less corrections but by no means it is 100% perfect. The EC does help mask some of the flaws on the JL but not completely - but definitely an improvement with it tracking straight on flat roads (but still have a slight pull when the road is crowned.

WIll be going back under today to put thread locker on the tierod clamp - wanted to get all of the adjustments done before locking it down.
 

calvinf1

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By the way, I have the original OEM location bracket for the EC - I don't need it since I have decided to run the EC behind the tie rod. Let me know if anything needs one I can do 40 shipped.
 

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@Exact Center , John , I put my my replaced EC in the mail back to you today……. Thanks
 

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Users have asked is it a good idea to run the factory stabilizer in factory location and EC in the tie-rod relocation position. EC replaces your stabilizer, but for Death Wobble problems EC has less stopping DW ability. The factory stabilizer only puts out 30 lbs. +- of resistance during normal turning speed but our tests have shown in impact high speed motion it can resist over 200 lbs. That is more than EC we are making for JL. So, it is possible, we have seen 2 users who had DW with a 140 and none with the factory stabilizer. For these special JLs that need more we could raise pressure to 180LB which we think would stop DW cold, or a simpler answer might be to use the factory stabilizer in factory location and a 110 or 140 in the modified tie-rod position. This is a bit like a belt and suspenders protection. The factory stabilizer will stop DW when it turns up and 100% of the time EC will give you the driving experience EC is known for such as a real center feel, a strong return to center, and a strong hold and steering control in all driving situations where outside forces try to turn the steered wheels. EC used with the factory stabilizer can be a good combo.
With Death Wobble it is easy to say fix the mechanical issues with wear and damaged parts, but even on a few new JLs some are getting DW with no worn parts. We can help these owners with even higher-pressure ECs, or they can go the combo route.
So I've been following the last week or two and based on what I've been reading decided it might be a good idea to run with both the 110 EC and the factory stabilizer on my 2021 stock JLU.
Currently, I'm running just the 110 EC mounted in the stock position. I recently changed from my winter BFG 265-70R17 KO2 to summer 245-75R17 Michelin. I think with the Michelin narrower tires the 110 EC is a bit of a strong feel and snaps back toward center a bit abruptly with higher speed cornering; I'm going to stick with the 110 EC though, as I want to be able to back up if necessary when the Jeep is a towed behind my RV.
I've purchased and received a Steering Stabilizer Relocation Kit by Synergy and plan to move the EC and add back the Stock Stabilizer. I'm just wondering, if the EC + stock stabilizer is a good combo, would the EC + Fox stabilizer be even better? Any down side to doing what I plan to do?

I'm a bit worried by the following post that I could run into a problem which I don't want... I think, with my current setup, I did feel a bit of jiggle going over bridge abutments at freeway speed; maybe I'm just a bit paranoid from all of this reading.

https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/forum/threads/terrible-death-wobble…please-help.93168/post-1942415

Reference:
https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/forum/threads/terrible-death-wobble…please-help.93168/





https://www.amazon.com/dp/B089LCNP4S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_1T36AC2AN3FS6BKBRYYZ?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
 
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Htfan

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So I've been following the last week or two and based on what I've been reading decided it might be a good idea to run with both the 110 EC and the factory stabilizer on my 2021 stock JLU.
Currently, I'm running just the 110 EC mounted in the stock position. I recently changed from my winter BFG 265-70R17 KO2 to summer 245-75R17 Michelin. I think with the Michelin narrower tires the 110 EC is a bit of a strong feel and snaps back toward center a bit abruptly with higher speed cornering; I'm going to stick with the 110 EC though, as I want to be able to back up if necessary when the Jeep is a towed behind my RV.
I've purchased and received a Steering Stabilizer Relocation Kit by Synergy and plan to move the EC and add back the Stock Stabilizer. I'm just wondering, if the EC + stock stabilizer is a good combo, would the EC + Fox stabilizer be even better? Any down side to doing what I plan to do?

I'm a bit worried by the following post that I could run into a problem which I don't want... I think, with my current setup, I did feel a bit of jiggle going over bridge abutments at freeway speed; maybe I'm just a bit paranoid from all of this reading.
Great question! I've been wondering the same thing. I'm currently running a Fox TS stabilizer in the stock location. However, a higher highway speeds (70+) with imperfect road conditions, it's still challenging.

I'm willing to try the EC in combination with the Fox. What do you think?
 

Levin_tom

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Tonight I placed the 140 on my JLUR with metalcloak lift and steering system. It was very easy to install. I added a few washers on the wheel side of the unit because the end is a bit smaller than the space on the bracket for regular size shock end. On the tie rod side I also had to add a few washers to keep the bolt from bottoming out. On jack stands it performed just like the videos above.

After driving down a straight road and making several minor adjustments I was able to get it to track very nicely at slow speeds and at 75mph.

However, I experienced slight to medium death wobble when I hit larger bumps at all speeds. Nothing that made the vehicle feel unsafe but enough that I certainly noticed it much more than with the AEV stabilizer. I don’t blame this on the exact center as there is likely something in the steering geometry that is causing this and the AEV is just doing a better job of masking it. Not sure if a stronger psi is needed or not. This one did work better than the 85 psi unit I originally installed.
Hey Jason can you send me a pic of how the SS was mounted on your Metalcloak tie rod?
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