Every JL owner needs to do this in 5 minutes, fixed my steering and other inconsistencies. FUSES!

[Saltysnook]

Short story, purchased my (used 16k miles) Rubicon 2 door (2.0 auto) and it had:
1. All the typical steering issues mentioned here: inches of play, tracking issues etc.
2. I was getting 14ish mpg and the idle was not as smooth as the other new ones I test drove.
3. Both symptoms seem to have a bit of variation each time I got behind the wheel. inconsistent driving experiences.
THE FIX!
90% of my fuses and relays in the fuse box were NOT seated. I got hard clicks with every one that wasn’t seated.
I hand pressed the relays and used a large flat head for better articulation to seat all the small fuses.
THE RESULT!
1.Tracks straight, steering is 80-90% improved.
2. The Engine smoothed out, more pep, MPG’s rose to 18 (heavy foot)

I have no data other than my own experience but by all means, try this before replacing suspension components or playing games with the service dept.
I am scheduled for the V41 next week so none of this is with the new stabilizer.
Hope this first post helps someone

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[Steveo]

 

[Saltysnook]

Regardless of weather it fixes any issues for your particular vehicle or not...bottom line, everyone should check their fuses. As a safety precaution at the minimum.
Mine came to life after doing this, and has consistently stayed that way ever since...thought I’d share.

 

[HoundDude]

there are at least two other reports in various threads of solving power steering assist issues by temporarily removing the fuse. in one of these instances, it was the dealer who took the initiative to do so. these systems are basically computers at this point so it's not out of the question that resetting it (i.e., clearing corrupted variables from memory) could have a real effect.

 

[JMONEZ]

there are at least two other reports in various threads of solving power steering assist issues by temporarily removing the fuse. in one of these instances, it was the dealer who took the initiative to do so. these systems are basically computers at this point so it's not out of the question that resetting it (i.e., clearing corrupted variables from memory) could have a real effect.

Which fuse is removed?

 

[HoundDude]

Which fuse is removed?

I did a quick search and couldn't find the post I'm remembering, but it is in one of the steering threads in this forum. apparently it is a high current fuse so make sure you do it right

this isn't the thread I remember but has a lot of useful electrical info you may find interesting:
https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/forum/threads/jeep-jl-wrangler-wiring-diagrams.19185/

JL Fuse List (stolen from these forums):

Location Description Size Type
F01 Spare
F02 Starter 40 Amp Green Cartridge
F03 IBS 5 Amp Tan Micro
F04 Fuel Pump MTR/FPCM 20 Amp Yellow Micro
F05 Security Gateway 5 Amp Tan Micro
F06 Spare
F07 LTR Cool Pump — If Equipped 15 Amp Blue Micro
F08 TCM-8HP CYGNUS 15 Amp Blue Micro
F09 Spare
F10 KIN/RF HUB/ESCL 15 Amp Blue Micro
F11 UCI Port (USB & AUX) 10 Amp Red Micro
F12 HIFI Ampliftier 25 Amp Clear Micro
F13 Spare
F14 Spare
F15 IPC/SWITCH BANK-HD ELEC 15 Amp Blue Micro
F16 Spare
F17 Spare
F18 AC CLUTCH 10 Amp Red Micro
F19 Spare
F20 CBC 1-INTERIOR LIGHTS 30 Amp Pink Cartridge
F21 REAR WIPER 20 Amp Yellow Micro
F22 ECM/PCM/MGU WAKE UP/PPU WAKE UP 10 Amp Red Micro
F23 PCM/ECM 10 Amp Red Micro
F24 Spare
F25 MOD_SBW 10 Amp Red Micro
F26 CBC 2-EXTERIOR LIGHTS #1 40 Amp Green Cartridge
F27 Front Wipers 30 Amp Pink Cartridge
F28 CBC 3-POWER LOCKS 40 Amp Green Cartridge
F29 CBC 4-EXTERIOR LIGHTS #2 40 Amp Green Cartridge
F30 Spare
F31 DIAGNOSTIC PORT 10 Amp Red Micro
F32 HVAC CTRL MOD/SCL/OCM/DPDM 10 Amp Red Micro
F33 PTS/IRCM/AIRBAG DISABLE LMPS 10 Amp Red Micro
F34 ESC/EHPS/SBCM WAKE UP 10 Amp Red Micro
F35 BRAKE VAC PMP — If Equipped 30 Amp Pink Cartridge
F36 TRLR TOW MOD — If Equipped 30 Amp Pink Cartridge
F37 TRLR TOW CONN 7W — If Equipped 30 Amp Pink Cartridge
F38 ECM 20 Amp Blue Cartridge
F39 Spare
F40 DTCM/AXLE LOCK FT_RR 15 Amp Blue Micro
F41 IC/SGW WAKE UP 15 Amp Blue Micro
F42 PCR CTRL FEED (ESS)/SPARE (BSG) — If Equipped 10 Amp Red Micro
F43 PWR OUTLET (CARGO) BATT 20 Amp Yellow Micro
F44 IRCAM HEATERS 10 Amp Red Micro
F45 PWR OUTLET (CARGO) IGN* 20 Amp Yellow Micro
F46 AUTO HDLP LVL MOD/LVL MTR/HDLP SW 10 Amp Red Micro
F47 Spare
F48 Spare
F49 ORC 10 Amp Red Micro
F50 HD ACC — If Equipped 10 Amp Red Micro
F51 DSRC/USB/ISRVM/CSGM 10 Amp Red Micro
F52 CIGAR LTR 20 Amp Yellow Micro
F53 Spare
F54 Spare
F55 Spare
F56 IN-CAR TEMP SENSOR 10 Amp Red Micro
F57 Frt Drvr Htd Seat 20 Amp Yellow Micro
F58 Frt Pass Htd Seat 20 Amp Yellow Micro
F59 Spare
F60 CSWM (HTD STR WHEEL) 15 Amp Blue Micro
F61 LBSS/RBSS 10 Amp Red Micro
F62 Spare
F63 ORC 10 Amp Red Micro
F64 Spare
F65 Spare
F66 HVAC BLOWER MTR FRT 40 Amp Green Cartridge
F67 Spare
F68 Spare
F69 MGU (BSG) — If Equipped 5 Amp Tan Micro
F70 INJ/IGN COIL (GAS)/GLO PLUG MOD (DSL) 25 Amp Clear Micro
F71 Spare
F72 HD ELEC ACC PKG — If Equipped 10 Amp Red Micro
F73 PWR TOP LT 20 Amp Blue Cartridge
F74 PWR TOP RT 20 Amp Blue Cartridge
F75 PPU-BPCM & APM (BSG) — If Equipped 10 Amp Red Micro
F76 ECM (GAS)/PCM (DSL) 20 Amp Yellow Micro
F77 HTD MIRRORS 10 Amp Red Micro
F78 COMP/INTRUSION/SIREN/INTRUSION SNSRS 10 Amp Red Micro
F79 SMART BAR CTRL MOD 20 Amp Yellow Micro
F80 PCM 15 Amp Blue Micro
F81 REAR DEFROSTER (EBL) 30 Amp Pink Cartridge
F82 FUEL HTR — If Equipped 30 Amp Pink Cartridge
F83 GLOW PLUG — If Equipped 60 Amp Yellow Cartridge
F84 UREA HTR CTRL UNIT — If Equipped 30 Amp Pink Cartridge
F85 PM SENSOR — If Equipped 10 Amp Red Micro
F86 BRAKE VAC PMP 2 — If Equipped 30 Amp Pink Cartridge
F87 SUPPLY/PURGING PMP — If Equipped 10 Amp Red Micro
F88 NOx SENSOR #1/ #2 — IF Equipped 20 Amp Blue Cartridge
F89 SCCM/CRUISE CTL/DTV 10 Amp Red Micro
F90 TRLR TOW PARK LMP — If Equipped 20 Amp Blue Cartridge
F91 HORN 20 Amp Yellow Micro
F92 HD ACCY #2 — If Equipped 40 Amp Green Cartridge
F93 HD ACCY #1 — If Equipped 40 Amp Green Cartridge
F94 TPM/CORAX 10 Amp Red Micro
F95 Spare
F96 PWR MIRROR SW 10 Amp Red Micro
F97 RADIO/TBM 20 Amp Yellow Micro
F98 SW BANK-HD ELEC/OFF ROAD 10 Amp Red Micro
F99 Spare
F100 ESC-ECU & VALVES 30 Amp Pink Cartridge
F101 DTCM 30 Amp Pink Cartridge
F102 DUAL USB PORT 15 Amp Blue Micro
F103 HD ACCY #3 — If Equipped 15 Amp Blue Micro
F104 PPU COOL PUMP — If Equipped 15 Amp Blue Micro
F105 ICS/HVAC 10 Amp Red Micro
F106 ESC-PUMP MTR 40 Amp Green Cartridge
F107 TRLR TOW STOP/TURN LT — If Equipped 20 Amp Yellow Micro
F108 HD ACCY #4 — If Equipped 15 Amp Blue Micro
F109 TRLR TOW STOP/TURN RT — If Equipped 20 Amp Yellow Micro
F110 POWER INVERTER 30 Amp Pink Cartridge
F111 TRLR TOW BACKUP — If Equipped

 

[CherryWrangler]

Short story, purchased my (used 16k miles) Rubicon 2 door (2.0 auto) and it had:
1. All the typical steering issues mentioned here: inches of play, tracking issues etc.
2. I was getting 14ish mpg and the idle was not as smooth as the other new ones I test drove.
3. Both symptoms seem to have a bit of variation each time I got behind the wheel. inconsistent driving experiences.
THE FIX!
90% of my fuses and relays in the fuse box were NOT seated. I got hard clicks with every one that wasn’t seated.
I hand pressed the relays and used a large flat head for better articulation to seat all the small fuses.
THE RESULT!
1.Tracks straight, steering is 80-90% improved.
2. The Engine smoothed out, more pep, MPG’s rose to 18 (heavy foot)

I have no data other than my own experience but by all means, try this before replacing suspension components or playing games with the service dept.
I am scheduled for the V41 next week so none of this is with the new stabilizer.
Hope this first post helps someone

I did check my fuses yesterday like you said all the relays and some of the fuses weren't fully sat in. I had to click them in with my fingers.

But I don't think this will fix my steering wheel play since it is something connected with the steering box.

 

[Saltysnook]

I did check my fuses yesterday like you said all the relays and some of the fuses weren't fully sat in. I had to click them in with my fingers.

But I don't think this will fix my steering wheel play since it is something connected with the steering box.

There could have been several variables that affected my situation, mine was a really late 18 build, no aftermarket accessories, etc. However, remember that 90% of my fuses and 100% of my relays were not clicked in. At least you know they're now seated regardless of the outcome.

 

[Goin2drt]

Yeah every one of my “clicked” in. Rig still drives like shit. No change whatsoever.

 

[Schism75]

I don’t know if there is validity to the steering improvement fuse correction but I will say ALL of my fuses in the box were half seated! someone at FCA assembly needs to re calibrate that damn robot to add more pressure. I had radio 5” Uconnect problems which is now gone after 4 days so fingers crossed. So, thank you to the O.P. for making me get off my lazy ass to peek under the hood.

 

[ebelp]

I could be wrong, but my understanding of fuses is that they're either in or out...they work or they don't work. I don't understand how seating them firmer into the fuse panel will make them work "better".

 

[Saltysnook]

I could be wrong, but my understanding of fuses is that they're either in or out...they work or they don't work. I don't understand how seating them firmer into the fuse panel will make them work "better".

Stronger grabs on the fuses pin will simply have better conductance as well as be more consistent... but that’s any type of connection weather it be power cables, breaker panels, audio cables, etc.
Best analogy I can come up with is jumping off a car with the red clamp resting on the battery terminal, versus being clamped to the terminal.

 

[ebelp]

Stronger grabs on the fuses pin will simply have better conductance as well as be more consistent... but that’s any type of connection weather it be power cables, breaker panels, audio cables, etc.
Best analogy I can come up with is jumping off a car with the red clamp resting on the battery terminal, versus being clamped to the terminal.

Unless the Jeep's fuses were loose to the point of falling out, I really would not compare them to a jumper cable resting on a battery terminal. Chances are, after hitting some potholes and bumps, the fuses can be "clicked" in again...but under no circumstances should they be loose enough to the point where they aren't making electrical contact inside the fuse slots. There's no middle ground with fuses...they're either in and work, or they're not in and don't work. Fuses don't "kind of" work.

 

[cbrenthus]

Does anyone know which one is power steering from the list above? I'm curious to pull it and see what happens - it definitely can't hurt. I'm thinking it's #106 ESC-PUMP MTR

 

[cbrenthus]

By the way, this thread reminded me that I need to check the fuses on my wife's pacifica that we just received on Saturday (custom order). Anyway, most of the fuses needed to be clicked in, and many of them were noticeably out in the sense that I could see a mm or 2 difference between one I clicked in and the one next to it. So yes, check those fuses!

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