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Euro JLUR 2020 Punk'n - Vehicle / Build journal

Should I paint black the OEM rims?


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taram

taram

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Since I have installed the BOLT hood lock, the Zautomotive camera wasn't an option for me. I also didn't like the price, especially after shipping&taxes here in EU... So I've bought a simple 480p rear/front camera (be careful - most of the cameras sold are REAR VIEW ONLY, which means you get a mirrored image. you'd definitely want to have the one that is capable for the front view as well, which is usually gained by cutting a special cable). Another argument for this cheap camera is that the stock head unit doesn't support HD input signal for the CARGO camera, so those 12 euro were well spent ))). The main challenging and time delaying issue was the RCA-Video cable with 2 pins on the other end that could be inserted into the plastic harness together with the other. Zautomotive has such a cable for sale, but again its final cost would have gone up to around 70 EUR after shipping&taxes, that sounds a bit crazy compared to 12 EUR camera... What I did - I tried to search for the pins that could work for me, and the best match I could get were the pins from old computer cooler. I welded them to the 25 cm cut piece of the video cable, and had to use some thin wooden sticks (matches, actually) to secure them in the harness - they were a bit loose in it, and I didn't want to remove the head unit every time the contact could be lost. I will not post photos of removed head unit and etc. - there's nothing special in it, many people have done this while removing the dash panels. Of course, the cargo camera input was activated with TazerJL.
Here are some photos of the camera installed:
Jeep Wrangler JL Euro JLUR 2020 Punk'n - Vehicle / Build journal IMG_1861.JPG

Jeep Wrangler JL Euro JLUR 2020 Punk'n - Vehicle / Build journal IMG_1850.JPG

Jeep Wrangler JL Euro JLUR 2020 Punk'n - Vehicle / Build journal IMG_1854.JPG

Jeep Wrangler JL Euro JLUR 2020 Punk'n - Vehicle / Build journal IMG_1857.JPG


Jeep Wrangler JL Euro JLUR 2020 Punk'n - Vehicle / Build journal IMG_1858.JPG
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taram

taram

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Here's how it goes with the BOLT hood lock - both locked and unlocked - no issues:
Jeep Wrangler JL Euro JLUR 2020 Punk'n - Vehicle / Build journal IMG_1860.JPG
Jeep Wrangler JL Euro JLUR 2020 Punk'n - Vehicle / Build journal IMG_1859.JPG
 
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taram

taram

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And finally I've created a shortcut from the main screen so I can access it easily any time I need it. Another good news is that the camera is working at any speed and doesn't' turn off unless you do it.
Jeep Wrangler JL Euro JLUR 2020 Punk'n - Vehicle / Build journal IMG_1862.JPG


What I'd like to add as a conclusion:
1. The front camera may be useful when approaching any obstacle that brings the front of the car up and you only see the skies, not knowing what's there after this "small hill". Due to the low resolution it might be safer to come out and take a look, but in most cases you can at least see where you should turn the wheel in order not to miss the narrow path for example.
2. I don't think I'd have passed through the camera cables if I wasn't installing the power slider steps. Going through the firewall was a nightmare, I had to trim the contacts of the camera, finally damaged them and had to weld the very thin wires back to the contact plate, ughh...
3. Initially I have connected the +12V cable of the camera to the power cable of the head unit as it was advised by forum members (usually these cameras have 2 options - you can connect the +12V wire on one end of the cable or on the other) hoping that it will not drain my battery, but for some reason that wire was live all the time after closing the car, and after 1 hour, and after 2 hours... that wouldn't bother me too much, but: 1) the contact plate of the camera gets quite hot all the time it's live, and: 2) I don't want any kind of parasite draining of the battery due to known alarm system issues. So I used the 2nd wire on the other end of the cable and connected it AUX4 under the hood. Now I can switch it on and off anytime, and even if I forget to switch it off , the AUX outlets are never powered when ignition is off.
4. The place for the camera I've chosen is probably the best option, and Zautomotive has its camera there as well, but when you stop the engine and the radiator fan goes off, all the area gets extremely hot and you can barely touch the camera meaning its temperature is around 60 degrees C. I don't know how long the CMOS-sensor will stand these temperatures, the good news is that you can always buy another camera with the same connection for 12 EUR and quickly replace it under the hood :)))

Assuming all the above said, I'd conclude that generally I like this mod and already used it while off-roading, but I'd recommend to think twice before installing front camera as a single upgrade, until you're ready to face some tricky issues while wiring it to the head unit, and passing the wires through the firewall.

Cheers everyone!

P.S. Still having issues with false alarms of the front parking sensors, which I have described in the following post: https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/forum/threads/major-improvements.55084/post-1200488 - any ideas/comments are welcome!
 
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And some nice good night photo of the Jeep in the Jeep territory ;)
Jeep Wrangler JL Euro JLUR 2020 Punk'n - Vehicle / Build journal IMG_1884.JPG
 
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taram

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Hey everyone, a little update here - I had only 3'200 km on the odometer, and the AdBlue warning came out saying the engine won't restart in 2'200 km... I ignored the message for around 300 km more to see how it goes, but yesterday a "Check engine" light went on, so I added 10 liters of AdBlue - all good now. But HOW, I mean HOW it could waste 10 liters of AdBlue for less than 3'500 km assuming that my wife's BMW X3 30d with 265 hp has spent the same amount for around 25'000 km! Anyway, it's just around 12 euro, but still surprising me.
 
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Even worse, why a check engine light with still a 1.900km range :facepalm:
Was the adblue tank even full when you took possession of the Jeep?
 
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taram

taram

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Even worse, why a check engine light with still a 1.900km range :facepalm:
Was the adblue tank even full when you took possession of the Jeep?
Yes, I remember navigating through the menus when just purchased my Jeep and it showed 100% like now - as I understand there’s a simple floater level indicator in the tank.
 

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Maybe your tank was filled with lightblue instead :LOL:
 

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So, in brief:
JLUR 2020 MY
2.2 MultiJet diesel, 8 AUTO
Black leather seats, heated front seats/steering wheel
Sky One-Touch Power Top
Alpine Premium Sound system
Technology group (LED premium lightning group, passive entry, blind spot detection w/rear cross path)
Rear/front park assist sensors, rear view camera
Class I Trailer Tow Package (includes Heavy Duty Electrical Group, goose-neck hitch and 13 pin wiring harness) - hitch and wiring harness were NOT SUPPLIED, in negotiation with FCA customer support on this issue.

In general I chose all available options excluding Trail Rail Management System as I'm used to rubber cargo area mats.
Regarding the trailer tow package - I haven't seen anybody who received it from the factory in Cyprus, so it's interesting what FCA will say.
Hi, did you ever get to the bottom of the trailer tow package?, mine is the same, build sheet has

Trailer Tow and HD Electrical Group

but no hitch or wiring harness
 
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Hi, did you ever get to the bottom of the trailer tow package?, mine is the same, build sheet has

Trailer Tow and HD Electrical Group

but no hitch or wiring harness
Nope, and they never replied to me regarding that even they charged me for that, ridiculous. I saw couple of Jeeps here with aftermarket tow hooks, and I can remember that I saw the holes where it can be attached while installing the rear steel bumper. Probably the EU-style plastic bumper needs to be trimmed in the middle where the Licence plate is located , so they decided just to skip it. Anyway, I don’t need it at the moment, but one day I think it can be easily installed. The other question are wires - you must bring them from the battery to the back. I’ve done this while installing power step sliders, and that was a nightmare ...
Another issue - how do we connect stop/turn signals of the trailer if it has them?... turns out that we never gonna have a normal fully legal trailer towing
 

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Hi Taram,

There is an OE EU 13 pin trailer wiring kit with an electronics box which goes behind the right hand side tail light cluster. More info here, including a brief write up on fitting both a tow hitch and the wiring:

https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/fo...ion-for-jl-rubicon-diesel.44494/#post-1140223

The module does things like cutting out the vehicle rear fog lamps when a trailer is connected and provides a warning tone if it detects a faulty turn signal bulb on the trailer. Not sure if it also connected to the can-bus to alert the vehicle ecu when a trailer is connected, so that shift changes are remapped and the trailer anti sway logic is enabled.

It wasn't a simple plug and play solution as some of the existing wiring connector blocks in the left hand tail light cluster needed the pins changing as per the instructions.

But since fitting the wiring kit, I have towed various trailers on around ten occasions and it has all worked perfectly.

OE Part number at the time for the EU kit was K82215540AC . The EU kit is different to the US version as the US use different sockets to hook up their trailers.
 
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Hi Taram,

There is an OE EU 13 pin trailer wiring kit with an electronics box which goes behind the right hand side tail light cluster. More info here, including a brief write up on fitting both a tow hitch and the wiring:

https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/fo...ion-for-jl-rubicon-diesel.44494/#post-1140223

The module does things like cutting out the vehicle rear fog lamps when a trailer is connected and provides a warning tone if it detects a faulty turn signal bulb on the trailer. Not sure if it also connected to the can-bus to alert the vehicle ecu when a trailer is connected, so that shift changes are remapped and the trailer anti sway logic is enabled.

It wasn't a simple plug and play solution as some of the existing wiring connector blocks in the left hand tail light cluster needed the pins changing as per the instructions.

But since fitting the wiring kit, I have towed various trailers on around ten occasions and it has all worked perfectly.

OE Part number at the time for the EU kit was K82215540AC . The EU kit is different to the US version as the US use different sockets to hook up their trailers.
Now THAT was a VERY useful input, Tony, thank you! Will definitely keep it in my bookmarks - sooner or later I might need it.
 

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nice build @taram !

Regarding the original sensors, I read the whole thread and as I undesrtand I can remove the original sensors from the original plastic EU bumper with a heat gun, and reuse them in another bumper, right?
I am asking because I have bought a US rubicon plastic bumper.
Thanks in advance
 

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nice build @taram !

Regarding the original sensors, I read the whole thread and as I undesrtand I can remove the original sensors from the original plastic EU bumper with a heat gun, and reuse them in another bumper, right?
I am asking because I have bought a US rubicon plastic bumper.
Thanks in advance
Yes you can. That’s what I did. Just pay attention to the direction and the layout. They are very sensitive these sensors so if they aren’t pointing the right way, they will complain!
 

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Taram, Great information on the differences in the euro/export model. Would you mind sending or PM me your VIN? I'm on a mission to find the part number on the non-painted fenders you have. I have same fenders as yours but want LED fender lights. US models only have them on the raised Rubi fenders (which I don't want).
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