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ESS Not Working

TheEscapist

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Hello all

I know this topic has been done many times before so apologies but having read many posts, I’m even more confused…

I’m hoping for a straightforward answer to my problem, which is:

I bought my U.K. spec 2.0 petrol Rubicon 4 dr 2021 from main dealer two days ago.

They didn’t check or service it properly. I’m miles away now in france and to avoid the U.K. vehicle in French workshop issue, I’d like to try to resolve myself first.

I have the ESS error / needs service light on all the time.

How exactly can I charge both batteries up to see if that helps?

Is there any other simple issue to check? Ie. Loose wires or something disabled under the hood? I’ve not disabled or set anything myself.

thanks in advance.
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Old Dogger

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First make sure that all of the fuses are seated in tight. Charging the battery’s, is not the answer. They need to be load tested.
 

AZJeepGuy

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I just had the small battery replaced in mine this morning. But when I drove away I got another error message.
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Most recommend replacing both batteries.

TheEscapist you bought the Nacho color Wrangler right with low miles? Being a couple years old with 500 or so miles on it I bet the batteries died as people recommended to you in earlier post. Some where you can have them tested?
 

JeepJLU402

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I figured my batteries needed changing so while the dealer was fixing the cracked boot on the drag link before my warranty expires on the 31st of this month I had them look at the ESS again. I was hoping for new batteries. The not available batteries charging has been the ESS display since last October. They charged the batteries yesterday and said the IBS needed reset. ESS was available yesterday so this morning about an hour ago I put the Tazer back on and when I drove to work (10 min drive) I’m back to “not available batteries charging”. I did check the voltage of the batteries this morning before putting the Tazer back on. 12.4 for the main and 12.3 for the aux. my guess is the dealer threw a big charge at the batteries to kick them down the road a bit.
 

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Rhinebeck01

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I figured my batteries needed changing so while the dealer was fixing the cracked boot on the drag link before my warranty expires on the 31st of this month I had them look at the ESS again. I was hoping for new batteries. The not available batteries charging has been the ESS display since last October. They charged the batteries yesterday and said the IBS needed reset. ESS was available yesterday so this morning about an hour ago I put the Tazer back on and when I drove to work (10 min drive) I’m back to “not available batteries charging”. I did check the voltage of the batteries this morning before putting the Tazer back on. 12.4 for the main and 12.3 for the aux. my guess is the dealer threw a big charge at the batteries to kick them down the road a bit.
@JeepJLU402

I'd take it back before your warranty expires... Ask to talk to the Service Manager. Politely tell the Service Manager you are very concerned about the battery(2) health on your JL ..... Ask that they LOAD TEST both batteries and let you see the load test results.

Without load test results no one knows what the health status of the batteries is.

By the way, Load Testing requires that the batteries be separated and both fully charged separately. Takes about 2 hrs. per battery to charge and load test.

IF, if they do not provide load test results (2 separate printouts) they did not load test both batteries. Again, charging & load testing the 2 batteris, will take 4 hrs. total time .... 2 hrs. for each battery.
 

aldo98229

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Going to the dealer for this proves a waste of time over and over. Trickle charging or replacing the batteries with the same trash Jeep installs at the factory doesn’t solve anything. Replace both batteries with an aftermarket set and move on.

OP: you should be able to keep driving the Jeep until you get home.

Good luck.
 

JeepJLU402

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@JeepJLU402

I'd take it back before your warranty expires... Ask to talk to the Service Manager. Politely tell the Service Manager you are very concerned about the battery(2) health on your JL ..... Ask that they LOAD TEST both batteries and let you see the load test results.

Without load test results no one knows what the health status of the batteries is.

By the way, Load Testing requires that the batteries be separated and both fully charged separately. Takes about 2 hrs. per battery to charge and load test.

IF, if they do not provide load test results (2 separate printouts) they did not load test both batteries. Again, charging & load testing the 2 batteris, will take 4 hrs. total time .... 2 hrs. for each battery.
The Tazer wouldn’t have messed anything up in the 40 mins it was on between install and me going to work correct? I would think that would be weird. I truly think your correct they just aren’t testing it correctly so they don’t have to replace them.
 

JeepJLU402

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Going to the dealer for this proves a waste of time over and over. Trickle charging or replacing the batteries with the same trash Jeep installs at the factory doesn’t solve anything. Replace both batteries with an aftermarket set and move on.

OP: you should be able to keep driving the Jeep until you get home.

Good luck.
I agree. I can’t find the Aux 14 without ordering one so I’ll probably just do that and move on with life. I’d rather not get stuck somewhere.
 

Rhinebeck01

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The Tazer wouldn’t have messed anything up in the 40 mins it was on between install and me going to work correct? I would think that would be weird. I truly think your correct they just aren’t testing it correctly so they don’t have to replace them.
@JeepJLU402

NO, no way it is the Tazer JL. By what you have posted it is pretty apparent, you need to replace both batteries. UNTIL you do replace both batteries, I would not remarry the Tazer JL to the vehicle.

IF, you have a no start situation due to dead battery(s) you will not be able to unmarry before you have the JL transported to the dealer for warranty work. You definitely want the Tazer JL umarried before dealer gets the JL.
 

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TheEscapist

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My vehicle is 10. On the old only and had 400 miles when I bought. I drove 12 hours non-stop home so batteries should be charged up.

do batteries go bad after only 10 months?
 
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TheEscapist

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Hi again, can someone tell me how to a. Check the batteries, b. see the vehicle info detail of the ESS problem, if there is any to see beyond the ESS not working. and c. which fuses to check on the fuse box?

thanks
 

Cuyose

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Is your steering wheel dead straight when you are driving on a flat level surface going straight? If it is off even a little, 10 degrees left or right, it can trigger that error as the sensors have the wheel speeds on one side going faster than the others when the steering wheel is straight.

This is a common issue after doing a lift, and it's a simple fix. All you need to do is loosen the drag link bolt with a 15mm wrench and use pipe wrench or vise grips to adjust the collar. Turn it only one revolution at most then test. Light will go out after a few miles on straight roads.

If your wheel is turned to the left on straight roads, you adjust the drag link by twisting down from the front of the vehicle. Obviously, the other way if its tweaked to the right. You don't need to jack anything up to do this.

That is if your steering wheel is off.
 
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How exactly can I charge both batteries up to see if that helps?
Placing your charger's leads on the main battery's terminals will charge both batteries. This is because the batteries are connected in parallel except for an instant at crank, and during ESS events.

Is there any other simple issue to check? Ie. Loose wires or something disabled under the hood? I’ve not disabled or set anything myself.

thanks in advance.
My first guess is that your ESS battery lacks adequate voltage for ESS to engage.

My vehicle is 10. On the old only and had 400 miles when I bought. I drove 12 hours non-stop home so batteries should be charged up.

do batteries go bad after only 10 months?
Defective batteries can go bad quickly. But I think you're describing a situation where ESS won't engage because the ESS battery lacks adequate voltage for the vehicle to engage ESS, which doesn't necessarily mean that your ESS battery is going bad. Many of us have to routinely trickle charge our JLs while parked to get ESS to engage.

Hi again, can someone tell me how to a. Check the batteries,
There are two aspects to answer this question. The first is how to temporarily move vehicle cables to attach your tester, so each battery can be tested in isolation, and the second aspect is what type of tester you're using, voltage meter or load tester.

Regardless of which tester is used, placing it on the main battery's leads will test both batteries as a composite because, to restate, the batteries are connected in parallel. Neither battery's individual status can be read this way.

In order to test each battery separately, temporarily disconnect all cables from the main battery's negative post. Once this is done, (and make sure those dangling cables don't come in contact with metal,) placing your tester's prongs on the main battery's leads will test only it.

Move JUST the negative side of the tester's prongs to the dangling cables: that's a reading of the aux battery.

Reattach those cables to the main battery when done.

"But, how was that a reading of the aux battery if the tester's positive was on the main battery?"

It was. Trust me. Only the aux battery completes a circuit with the danging negative cables tested in mid air.

Now, that said, topic moves to testers. A simple volt meter is only the start. Real battery testing, as already discussed in this thread, is done with a load tester, which will test the batteries' ability to delivery and accept charge.

b. see the vehicle info detail of the ESS problem, if there is any to see beyond the ESS not working.
Not without ODB II port diagnostic equipment.

c. which fuses to check on the fuse box?
Check all
 
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TheEscapist

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So I charged both the batteries (together by connecting a trickle charger to the main battery) for 2 days and still the ESS wanting light is on. I guess it’s a trio to the dealers (with no doors or roof lol) to get things checked out Unless anyone has any ideas?
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