ESS Issue or Battery Issue “ UPDATED AFTER SERVICE”

CanAmMick

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I was just at the dealers and I discussed my high voltage with a tech. I told him it was running around 14.7. He said 14.7 is acceptable, but 14.8 is a problem. For now, I'll just keep monitoring until it goes up or something fails.
At this point I really don’t know what’s good or bad on battery voltage. The dealership that I purchased it from is pretty small. I just hope they know something about the JL. I’ve only seen one other JL on their lot, so? 14.7-14.8 all the time seems high to me. Seems like it would burn the battery up being that high all the time, but who knows. Just hope they figure something out. I actually miss driving it.





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The reading you see in the dash is the voltage the alternator is charging at.... The agm batteries charge at around 14v and up....
 
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@Jebiruph see that’s the rub with me is these FCA techs are telling ppl like me that 14+ all the time is not normal and other times we hear it’s normal, currently my Tazer is married and plugged in and for the last 12 days I have been doing daily cold voltage checks of the main and ESS batteries ( 7 days each and the first 7 was it unplugged but married ) and so far my main battery has been running from 12.55-12.65 and ESS has been running 12.48-12.67 and EVIC displayed voltage has been 12.6-13.9 on cold starts, so there seems to be no rhyme or reason for why the voltage swings on the EVIC display other than the IBS is monitoring the battery voltage and then allows more and more voltage to be generated by the alternator so that’s why on some days I was seeing a low EVIC displayed voltage and other days seeing a higher one but this does not explain why some are seeing 14+ all the time and others are seeing lower voltages, at first I was thinking it was a programmer issue like the Tazer drawing a parasitic power pull on the main but I’m not 100% sure I can say that as lots of you don’t have a Tazer and are seeing 14+ and lots that do have a Tazer are seeing 14+ and the same goes for lower voltages so at this point the only thing I know is I have been taking to many voltage readings :like:
 
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WranglerMan

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The reading you see in the dash is the voltage the alternator is charging at.... The agm batteries charge at around 14v and up....
Is it possible we all don’t have AGM batteries ?
 

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@Jebiruph see that’s the rub with me is these FCA techs are telling ppl like me that 14+ all the time is not normal and other times we hear it’s normal, currently my Tazer is married and plugged in and for the last 12 days I have been doing daily cold voltage checks of the main and ESS batteries ( 7 days each and the first 7 was it unplugged but married ) and so far my main battery has been running from 12.55-12.65 and ESS has been running 12.48-12.67 and EVIC displayed voltage has been 12.6-13.9 on cold starts, so there seems to be no rhyme or reason for why the voltage swings on the EVIC display other than the IBS is monitoring the battery voltage and then allows more and more voltage to be generated by the alternator so that’s why on some days I was seeing a low EVIC displayed voltage and other days seeing a higher one but this does not explain why some are seeing 14+ all the time and others are seeing lower voltages, at first I was thinking it was a programmer issue like the Tazer drawing a parasitic power pull on the main but I’m not 100% sure I can say that as lots of you don’t have a Tazer and are seeing 14+ and lots that do have a Tazer are seeing 14+ and the same goes for lower voltages so at this point the only thing I know is I have been taking to many voltage readings :like:
I think the evic voltage meter is an unreliable way to tell the health of your battery. Some people’s batteries could be depleted more than others which would account for the higher numbers in the evic. I wonder how many people have dash cams that work in park mode? This would definitely cause the charger to work more and the evic voltage meter would show it. Do you know that a battery at 12.4 volts has already depleted by 25% ? A battery at 12.2 volts is 50% depleted and very hard on the battery.
 
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WranglerMan

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I think the evic voltage meter is an unreliable way to tell the health of your battery. Some people’s batteries could be depleted more than others which would account for the higher numbers in the evic. I wonder how many people have dash cams that work in park mode? This would definitely cause the charger to work more and the evic voltage meter would show it. Do you know that a battery at 12.4 volts has already depleted by 25% ? A battery at 12.2 volts is 50% depleted and very hard on the battery.
Yes I do agree that using the EVIC voltsge is an unreliable way but it’s a useful tool in determining the state of ones battery.

We all should know that a fully charged battery is 12.66 volts at approx 70-80 deg and as it gets colder the voltage drops so for someone that parks there JL in there driveway in upstate NY in Jan will not have the same cold voltage that I would have with my JL parked in my garage the same time of year in south Texas but with the JL utilizing a smart charge system regardless of where you are living after driving the Jeep for awhile the EVIC voltage from my understanding is supposed to slowly start to drop as the battery becomes more charged the alternator output to the batteries is reduced and this again is by design to reduce constantly sending a full charge to the batteries shortening their life and by the alternator supposedly charging on slow downs by braking and also the reduced output it’s supposed to increase HP and improve mileage

Here is the guidelines I use for battery charging

A39C27AC-7D38-4314-A250-E40F3C4E724F.jpeg
 

RonAZ

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I can check my battery voltage at the terminal at 90%-100% and then drive for half hour and the alternator measures 200 degrees with an infrared thermometer. Seems too hot to me. If the battery is charged, where is the current going that is making the alternator work so hard?
My concern is that I have a small teardrop trailer that will also accept current from the Jeep alternator when connected. Is the alternator going to get even hotter then?
I have the tow package so I believe that the larger alternator should be able handle both the Jeep and the RV. That's why the tow package has a larger alternator.
On my sailboat I had about a 240 amp high output alternator feeding 4 group 31 AGM batteries. When the state of charge had fallen below 50% the alternator never got as hot as the Jeep one does feeding a 90% charged group 29'ish battery.
Perhaps the alternator has a short inside, or the small battery is bad and pulling to many amps and just making heat... I dont' want a failure or a fire, but if I go to a dealer I'm sure that "working as designed is all I will hear".
Any thoughts from someone with more experience than me.
 

Dransem

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I need help.
I’ve been lurking these threads now for a few months. My 2018 Jeep JL started this ESS failure without a code since maybe early October. I had to take it in for an oil service and they replaced the IBS and said both of my batteries were good on charge even though they’re running at 14.7 all the time. The new IBS worked with the start/stop for about a month before it failed again saying constantly that my battery was charging. I took it in again(4 days) and had the IBS replaced once again and a radio update. This time they notified me it would take 6 key cycles to begin working, which after 6 times it started agaIn. Three days later it stopped working again and when I parked it at a coffee shop it flashed a message about servicing my transmission. I was panicked and took it back in again. I got it back again today after three days in the shop. They had to order a new updated IBS from Chrysler, now the message is the battery protection mode message. Has anyone had an ongoing issue with the ESS? I don’t know what to do anymore, my Jeep has 16,000 miles and the ESS only seems to function when it’s raining out now, but no short can be detected.
 

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@Jebiruph see that’s the rub with me is these FCA techs are telling ppl like me that 14+ all the time is not normal and other times we hear it’s normal, currently my Tazer is married and plugged in and for the last 12 days I have been doing daily cold voltage checks of the main and ESS batteries ( 7 days each and the first 7 was it unplugged but married ) and so far my main battery has been running from 12.55-12.65 and ESS has been running 12.48-12.67 and EVIC displayed voltage has been 12.6-13.9 on cold starts, so there seems to be no rhyme or reason for why the voltage swings on the EVIC display other than the IBS is monitoring the battery voltage and then allows more and more voltage to be generated by the alternator so that’s why on some days I was seeing a low EVIC displayed voltage and other days seeing a higher one but this does not explain why some are seeing 14+ all the time and others are seeing lower voltages, at first I was thinking it was a programmer issue like the Tazer drawing a parasitic power pull on the main but I’m not 100% sure I can say that as lots of you don’t have a Tazer and are seeing 14+ and lots that do have a Tazer are seeing 14+ and the same goes for lower voltages so at this point the only thing I know is I have been taking to many voltage readings :like:
Too many readings! I’ve had 3 JL’s of my own and worked on many others - there’s one thing you’re correct on, there’s no rhyme or reason when monitoring the voltage on EVIC. 11.5 to 14.7 is the normal range I’ve seen depending on the Jeep.
The one thing I can assure you is the Tazer isn’t affecting it. 7mA when off, basically does nothing.
Over 10,000 Tazer JL’s in their various forms out there and battery charge hasn’t been an issue (yes firmware 11.0.6 and earlier had some issues in certain cases especially with prox entry killing batteries overnight by keeping the dash lit).
Are you actually finding your battery dead? Or just get the “aux not available while battery charging” message, after the Jeep sits a few days? That’s normal.
 
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WranglerMan

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Too many readings! I’ve had 3 JL’s of my own and worked on many others - there’s one thing you’re correct on, there’s no rhyme or reason when monitoring the voltage on EVIC. 11.5 to 14.7 is the normal range I’ve seen depending on the Jeep.
The one thing I can assure you is the Tazer isn’t affecting it. 7mA when off, basically does nothing.
Over 10,000 Tazer JL’s in their various forms out there and battery charge hasn’t been an issue (yes firmware 11.0.6 and earlier had some issues in certain cases especially with prox entry killing batteries overnight by keeping the dash lit).
Are you actually finding your battery dead? Or just get the “aux not available while battery charging” message, after the Jeep sits a few days? That’s normal.
Joe,

No issues with starting on running and no error messages at all and ESS works when I have tested it, since writing several posts on this subject I don’t have my Tazer anymore as I honestly only used just a few features so figured someone else could benefit more from it so I sold it off.

I will say since selling it off that my JL performs the exact same way in regard to voltages displayed on the EVIC and voltages directly taken at the main and ESS and combined voltages, I do put it on a trickle charge once a month for a few days just to refresh the change and keep the batteries at peak charge as from what I have ready it’s healthy in maintaining them.

I will admit that I do kinda miss my Tazer even though I never took full advantage of it and wish there were options just for TPMS and tire size and just these two features are all I need so Joe maybe you could consider making one available for just these two things or even add ESS in there and that’s it no upgrade just these 1-3 things but maybe there would not be enough interest
 

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We do! The Tazer JL Lite does exactly that:
Tire size
Gear ratio
Transfer case ratio
TPMS on/off
TPMS pressure settings
ESS memory
And a few other features, full list on my website.
For $219

...and can be upgraded later on to the full functional Tazer JL Mini by purchasing an activation code from the website.
 
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WranglerMan

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We do! The Tazer JL Lite does exactly that:
Tire size
Gear ratio
Transfer case ratio
TPMS on/off
TPMS pressure settings
ESS memory
And a few other features, full list on my website.
For $219

...and can be upgraded later on to the full functional Tazer JL Mini by purchasing an activation code from the website.
Joe I know the lite version is there but I was thinking a “ Lite, Lite” version ..lol which possibly might lower the cost even more, I only need tire size and TPMS settings
 

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