ESS Issue or Battery Issue “ UPDATED AFTER SERVICE”

W1ck3d

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Speaking of which i thought the dealer was supposed to give customers some of those clips when they bought a wrangler..... Which is what i heard anyway ..... Dont know how true





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WranglerMan

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Speaking of which i thought the dealer was supposed to give customers some of those clips when they bought a wrangler..... Which is what i heard anyway ..... Dont know how true
I received zero clips but that’s on par with the crappy service dept they have, maybe you should do a step by step on removing the ESS battery.
 
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WranglerMan

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And technically you don't even have to remove the flare and just go from underneath but having the flare off just makes it easier to access with less stuff in the way... They make it easy to remove the flares anyway because its one of the common things people change
Maybe I should just get a bag of these clips to have because I am quite sure with my luck one or more will break if I try to remove it.
 

Jebiruph

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Maybe I should just get a bag of these clips to have because I am quite sure with my luck one or more will break if I try to remove it.
You should. In my experience, when I purchase spares in anticipation of breakage, the breakage never happens. Maybe having spare clips will mean you never break one.
 

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Just an update for anyone that cares to know... I finally got an appointment at the dealer yesterday to have them take a look at the ESS. The main crank battery is suspect and didn't pass the tests they ran it through. New battery on order, so hopefully that's it and it won't be problem going forward. 2+ weeks ETA.
 
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Just an update for anyone that cares to know... I finally got an appointment at the dealer yesterday to have them take a look at the ESS. The main crank battery is suspect and didn't pass the tests they ran it through. New battery on order, so hopefully that's it and it won't be problem going forward. 2+ weeks ETA.
They found my main battery bad after running some testing on a GR8 tester, not sure what caused the issue but currently not using my programmer and everything is back to stock and working as designed, I would be curious to know what your idle voltage is when getting it back and also what was your idle voltage before
 

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They found my main battery bad after running some testing on a GR8 tester, not sure what caused the issue but currently not using my programmer and everything is back to stock and working as designed, I would be curious to know what your idle voltage is when getting it back and also what was your idle voltage before
According to the Jeep idle voltage has ranged from 14.4-14.6 when I've paid attention to it. I'm also curious to know what it looks like after the battery is replaced.

IMG_2165.png
 
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WranglerMan

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According to the Jeep idle voltage has ranged from 14.4-14.6 when I've paid attention to it. I'm also curious to know what it looks like after the battery is replaced.

IMG_2165.png
My voltage displayed was 14+ to but that’s not the way it was when I purchased it, today after sitting all night it showed 13.5 on startup and then after about 30 mins of driving at idle it dropped to the 12.6-12.8 range and like I said when I brake or just let off the gas the voltage ramps up to over 14+ and then settles down to the 12.6-12.8 range but the lower voltage does not show up until I have been driving it alittle bit.

This blew my mind when first getting it and when I asked about it they advised it was normal and the voltage displayed is kinda the battery voltage but the alternator throwing voltage can affect that, hence the higher voltage. A tech told me that displaying 14+ all the time is not normal but also said many things can and will affect it and in my case it was a bad main battery, but the design from what I was told is it smart charges and the IBS checks the battery and then tells the alternator what it needs to do and this supposedly helps mileage and increases battery life by not constantly throwing a full charge to the battery, I have no documented proof of this and am only repeating what a tech told me

I have been running without a programmer for almost a month and the voltage displayed has never been above 14 and after it’s been sitting a day or two shows high 13’s but after 45-60 mins of driving it settles down around 12.7 at idle and I have used a multi meter and checked voltage at 3 points and it’s always been in the 12.7 range on the batteries and everything works and no error messages so I currently have it on a trickle charger and am going to put my Tazer in and change a few vehicle settings then pull the Tazer and run a few weeks to see if all is well then plug it back in and leave it and again monitor voltage to see if I have issues, my hope is it was just a bad battery and not something else
 

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Took mine in for similar conditions. Low resting voltage (12.0v) and high alternator output during driving (14.5v). Had the message on the dash that said "ESS not available-battery charging". Aux battery was shot and had been pulling the large battery down with it for some period of time, eventually damaging them both. Dealer replaced both batteries, and now its acting like it was when new. ~13v when driving and 12.5-12.6v at rest.
 
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That’s what mine displayed right after they replaced the main battery but after my trickle charge yesterday it’s idle at 12.6-12.7 on EVIC and batteries meter at the source at 12.75

I’m sure since the trickle charger bumped it up to 100% that the alterantor is not doing much as the IBS is seeing good voltage but as it trickle down I’m sure it will return to the 12.8-13 it was showing before, I more than likely will put it on a trickle charger once a month for the day, it’s not a big deal with the quick connect and I will put it on in the early evening and by morning it will be done so no biggie for me and it may help lengthen my battery life
 

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I never paid much attention to the voltage before it failed on me, so I don't have a good idea of what it had been, but when I started watching it the battery always was 14+. So maybe that is just a symptom of a bad or weak battery in this system, due to the alternator throwing so much at it.

I'm with you hoping that it was just a bunk battery and nothing more, but time will tell.
 

jeepthaicon

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I recently purchased a brand new 2018 Jeep JL Unlimited Wrangler Rubicon in May 2018. The current milage on my Wrangler is 12,332.

2 times now my vehicle while driving has completely stalled as in the P,R,N,D lights near my shifter will all light up simultaneously. My dashboard will say "NO BUS", service shifter, auto start/stop not available, and the engine light will come on. The engine light will not return though after a few starts of the Jeep later.

1st time the vehicle stalled was while I was driving in the rain around 40 mph, the steering wheel locked and as mentioned above that happened. I brought it in to the Jeep dealership where I purchased it, told them my concerns even with the dead spot in the steering and it was serviced for a few days. Received it back and was told the mechanic was unable to replicate the issue and that there were updates done "UPDATED PCM SOFTWARE AND TEST DROVE VEHICLE".

After getting it back and a few weeks of driving my rubicon it was fine in all weather conditions. But just 2 days ago while in the rain it stalled again at around 30 mph but the steering didn't lock up. I had to pull over to the side of the road with my emergency lights on, put it in park, and restart it.

Has anyone else had issues with their wrangler doing this? I don't think the weather has anything to do with this situation. Could it be after the cruise control recall? I honestly don't know what's going on and I feel like it's dangerous that this can happen any time again. Any help would greatly be appreciated!

The images below were taken today when I brought in the vehicle for service for today. The service advisor plugged in a device into the wrangler which codes appeared on their iPad.

IMG_0822.jpg


IMG_0818.jpg
 

frajnai

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Well after seeing lots of posts on ESS issues and then hearing about bad IBS sensors and bad ESS batteries
Just posting this to add to the knowledge pool, and ill post further updates.

My dead (not able to crank over) Jeep with a ESS service error has been diagnosed as a bad alternator by my local dealer.

Its due to be replaced tomorrow, so ill update you guys on how it goes.

UPDATE - Alternator is replaced, and vehicle is working now showing ~13V while running and ESS is working fine with no errors. A bit strange that an alternator would die at 2700KM, but im happy its working.
 
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CanAmMick

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Since I was taking my Jeep into the dealership to have my electric running boards installed I asked them to take a look at the battery voltage. It constantly stays at 14.7-14.8.

They called today and said that my voltage is way too high and that there is a heavy draw on the main battery. The other battery looks to be ok. They said it goes through many different modules and they are not sure what is causing the issue.

I’ve never had any problems with the Jeep starting, or any kind of check engine light. And where I live we’ve seen temperatures as low as -8. I wish now I would have checked the voltage when I first purchased the Jeep back in June, and again after the dealership installed my bumper and Warn winch. Until I started reading about all these issues, and after talking with @WranglerMan I had never bothered to check my battery voltage.

Hopefully I’ll know something by mid to late next week. I’ll keep everyone posted on what they figure out.
 

Jebiruph

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I was just at the dealers and I discussed my high voltage with a tech. I told him it was running around 14.7. He said 14.7 is acceptable, but 14.8 is a problem. For now, I'll just keep monitoring until it goes up or something fails.
 

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