Valpo Jeep
Well-Known Member
- First Name
- Doug
- Joined
- Jun 15, 2022
- Threads
- 24
- Messages
- 794
- Reaction score
- 1,313
- Location
- Valparaiso IN
- Vehicle(s)
- 15 Mas Ghibli, 18 JLU, 05 Gulfstream RV
Sponsored
Water pump failure can cause this. Also a symptom of low coolant level, but OP didn't say if it was low. Revving it up could increase flow through the heater core, slowing down goes cold if your pump isn't working properly. Could easily cause an overheat of the motor. This should be a full flow heater core system, no valves in the coolant, just blend doors directing air.Sue in small claims court. Most small claims have a cap of $5-10k. Does not cost must at all.
Drawback is its a slow moving train, may take months before before you go to court.
That said, this>. " Sometime the heat would blow cold and when I accelerate it would go back to normal Took it to the dealer and was told I need a new engine."
What the hell that does not pass the makes sense test. Not sure how the AC/HEAT system works, but over the years I have had many cars that when you hit the go pedal the heat would blow cold or vice versa.
The origin for this came from vacuum hoses that controlled the ducts. The engine and the ducts are only connected either electrically or via a vacuum hose connection.
Find another dealer!
One of 2, water pump (had this happen a lot but never a water pump, but NOT Saying it could not be) and for me it always been the internal flapsWater pump failure can cause this. Also a symptom of low coolant level, but OP didn't say if it was low. Revving it up could increase flow through the heater core, slowing down goes cold if your pump isn't working properly. Could easily cause an overheat of the motor. This should be a full flow heater core system, no valves in the coolant, just blend doors directing air.
Water pumps don’t just quit pumping. Impeller failure is extremely rare and basically only happens on very old vehicles with coolant that has long since expired and corrosion sets in.Water pump failure can cause this. Also a symptom of low coolant level, but OP didn't say if it was low. Revving it up could increase flow through the heater core, slowing down goes cold if your pump isn't working properly. Could easily cause an overheat of the motor. This should be a full flow heater core system, no valves in the coolant, just blend doors directing air.
Cavitation, or impeller loose on the shaft. Last time I saw either the vehicles were 40 years old.Water pumps don’t just quit pumping. Impeller failure is extremely rare and basically only happens on very old vehicles with coolant that has long since expired and corrosion sets in.
What's it made out of? There's a number of plastic impeller water pumps failing on other cars. I'm saying this particular symptom is indicative of that kind of failure mode. It's not a corrosion issue.Water pumps don’t just quit pumping. Impeller failure is extremely rare and basically only happens on very old vehicles with coolant that has long since expired and corrosion sets in.
Sorry, but that isn't happening on a modern vehicle. The fact is, it's a 2.0L. They leak coolant.What's it made out of? There's a number of plastic impeller water pumps failing on other cars. I'm saying this particular symptom is indicative of that kind of failure mode. It's not a corrosion issue.
And water pumps most certainly fail regularly and quit pumping. I've seen a lot of dead engines caused by it. Impellers coming loose from shafts is the failure mode.
All you really need to do is pop the hood and squeeze the upper radiator hose. It is a terrible design for a reservoir though.Cavitation, or impeller loose on the shaft. Last time I saw either the vehicles were 40 years old.
They either pump or they don't. When they don't, over-heating is pretty quick.
A temp sensor will usually show hot if the coolant isn't touching. Had it happen on a Comanche. The dealership had replaced the water pump under warranty. A couple weeks passed and it was fine, but then on my way home from a little trip, I noticed steam coming from under the hood. They had tightened the belt so tight it took the water pump bearings out, the fan cut into the upper hose and I'd lost coolant. The temp gauge was up to 3/4 of the scale. I got it home by sitting and letting things cool, then driving a short distance until the gauge went up over half, then stopping, etc. Took quite a while but luckily I wasn't more than 5 miles from home. The coolant could not have been up in the top rear left corner of the head on that engine, no way. Steam........... steam can still "transfer heat". (It was a 4.0 and Jeep people know where the temp sending unit is on any AMC or Jeep I6)
BTW - why is it that the coolant tank is black with a dipstick on the 2.0 but on the 3.6, it's clear so you can see the coolant level at a glance without even removing a cap and messing with a stupid dipstick. That's really a step back in time - make a person take a cap off to check coolant level.
I much prefer the Jeep I have with the 3.6 where I can open the hood and look at the tank and see if the level is still at the black mark I made last time I looked to track fluid levels.
Can't do that with our 2.0 - have to open the danged system, pull a cap. It's like this is 1970 again.
This makes me suspect stuck thermostat.OP, I'm terribly sorry to hear this! That's ridiculous that they expect you to cover this.
I also am concerned for our '19 2.0. On two occasions recently the wife was idling in the carpool lane when the coolant temp all of a sudden spiked like in this pic. But then it went to normal.
I checked all the fluids, everything was good, no leaks, etc. Took it to the dealer, they couldn't repeat anything either. Said it is an intermittent problem and to bring it back if it happens again.
And we also have the extended warranty. I worry our jeep is headed to the same fate as yours.
Seriously? It's happening with other makes, regular occurrence. This is ONLY a modern vehicle problem. 'We have several trashed engines a year on multiple makes caused by impeller failure. It's a low percentage issue, but it's there.Sorry, but that isn't happening on a modern vehicle. The fact is, it's a 2.0L. They leak coolant.
We move more than a thousand cars a year through our shop and I have never seen this happen other than from overwhelming corrosion on very old vehicles. What models are you seeing this on?Seriously? It's happening with other makes, regular occurrence. This is ONLY a modern vehicle problem. 'We have several trashed engines a year on multiple makes caused by impeller failure. It's a low percentage issue, but it's there.
I'm a long time master tech, been working on cars for a living since 1984. The new plastic impeller pumps have a failure mode where the shaft spins in the impeller. I've seen it, I've replaced engines for it, it happens. Again, it's ONLY a modern vehicle problem.
I have not had a 2.0 pump apart to see, but it it's a modern plastic impeller, then that's the failure mode we see on other makes.
A partially stuck thermostat could be an issue, but the pump can certainly fail.
Thanks for the tip. Is there a way to diagnose the thermostat when it is not in overheating mode?This makes me suspect stuck thermostat.
Not really, just keep a close watch on gage. When high temp is shown, stop and check radiator/hose/stat area for heat. Caution! Could be very hot! Alternate thought, even though is only April, is the main cooling fan functional? When A/C on this should run.Thanks for the tip. Is there a way to diagnose the thermostat when it is not in overheating mode?