Energy Suspension Rock Flex system for Rubicon

[RubiJR]

Does anyone have any experience or know of anyone with these poly bushings and system installed? https://www.suspension.com/2.18110

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[Headbarcode]

I personally wouldn't spend anywhere near that much on a spacer lift. I'd much rather pad the budget and go with an actual suspension lift. Spacers add the necessary height to clear larger tires, thus enhancing capability. A true suspension lift also adds the increased travel that will bring the jeep to the next level of performance.

Just my 2 cents

 

[RubiJR]

The theory is the Poly bushings give 25% more and the bumps are a little progressive so better than stock with the spacer I think as a secondary addition just to call it a lift. Are the Polyurethane bushings not as good as they claim? Is the Rubicon suspension just worthless so should be changed out? I have not really used it in any real situations to know yet. On a suspension lift should I be looking to change the arms, springs, and shocks? I need to research more to be more knowledgeable and I really appreciate any input to help me out. Any thoughts on the Metal Cloak Game Changer?

It sounded too good to be true - Check around 7:13 in SEMA 2018 Jeep JL Wrangler SHOW COVERAGE - PART 3 / BLACK OPS RANCHO AMERICAN FASTBACK - YouTube

 

[AnnDee4444]

I'm intrigued by their caster correcting bushing, it might be of use to those running the Mopar lift arms that still want more caster. Not really a fan of the spacers for the springs & swaybar, but the bushings look interesting.

Looks like their test JLU went from a 640 RTI to 794 (with 1.5" lift shocks): https://www.fourwheeler.com/how-to/...rection-in-one-wrangler-jl-suspension-system/

 

[RubiJR]

I also would like to keep my extended warranty and this will keep it

 

[bumpit]

You could get a decent entry level lift for a couple hundred more dollars and have adjustable lowers and an adjustable trackbar with actual springs

 

[Headbarcode]

The theory is the Poly bushings give 25% more and the bumps are a little progressive so better than stock with the spacer I think as a secondary addition just to call it a lift. Are the Polyurethane bushings not as good as they claim? Is the Rubicon suspension just worthless so should be changed out? I have not really used it in any real situations to know yet. On a suspension lift should I be looking to change the arms, springs, and shocks? I need to research more to be more knowledgeable and I really appreciate any input to help me out. Any thoughts on the Metal Cloak Game Changer?

It sounded too good to be true - Check around 7:13 in SEMA 2018 Jeep JL Wrangler SHOW COVERAGE - PART 3 / BLACK OPS RANCHO AMERICAN FASTBACK - YouTube

Poly bushings are nice. They are generally stiffer than rubber, which is a plus for tightening up the steering and suspension. I've heard they are popular with the sports car crowd, but tend to not last as long as rubber bushings.

The part that I don't like, is having to spend that amount of money and time to rebuild lackluster arms and linkages. And what keeps those offset bushings from spinning and throwing caster and pinion angle all over the place? No need to answer. I'd just not like to see someone spend the money and time on something like this. When for just a bit more budget, one could end up with both better bushings and better arms/linkages.

 

[Moto_21]

Jesus thats expensive for crap bushings and only spacers and plus the stock arms are so thin and weak they break too easy. Also they wont be long enough for correct castor. That “castor corrected bushing” i bet is not near the correct offset to give a good castor, just better castor. Also theres no shocks or shock extensions so theres a major limit there with stock shocks. Dont waste the money honestly. If you want a spacer lift go rancho. But honestly get a real lift

 

[AnnDee4444]

Jesus thats expensive for crap bushings and only spacers and plus the stock arms are so thin and weak they break too easy. Also they wont be long enough for correct castor. That “castor corrected bushing” i bet is not near the correct offset to give a good castor, just better castor.

The Mopar lift arms are only 0.25" longer than OEM, which seems to be enough to correct a stock Rubicon's caster. I would expect these offset bushings to be about 0.2" offset (they're claiming 1 degree), so they may add enough caster for the Sport/Sahara owners. Also they'll probably correct the caster on a Mopar lift with with the Mopar lift arms.

Why do you think the OEM arms are weak and break easy? Do you have any links I can check out?

Poly bushings are nice. They are generally stiffer than rubber, which is a plus for tightening up the steering and suspension. I've heard they are popular with the sports car crowd, but tend to not last as long as rubber bushings.

The part that I don't like, is having to spend that amount of money and time to rebuild lackluster arms and linkages. And what keeps those offset bushings from spinning and throwing caster and pinion angle all over the place? No need to answer. I'd just not like to see someone spend the money and time on something like this. When for just a bit more budget, one could end up with both better bushings and better arms/linkages.

Polyurethane bushings can actually last longer than rubber, but do require occasional maintenance (grease). Don't maintain them and they'll fail sooner.

I know you don't want an answer, but I'll provide one anyway: It looks like they have two set screws on the metal sleeve. Still not sure if it's effective at reducing the slip, but it might be better than this style: https://www.4wheelparts.com/v/jeep-...n/alignment-caster-camber-kit/_/N-1sj00Zcm5lo

Either way, I don't see how it would even be possible to adjust these once they are installed.

 

[Headbarcode]

The Mopar lift arms are only 0.25" longer than OEM, which seems to be enough to correct a stock Rubicon's caster. I would expect these offset bushings to be about 0.2" offset (they're claiming 1 degree), so they may add enough caster for the Sport/Sahara owners. Also they'll probably correct the caster on a Mopar lift with with the Mopar lift arms.

Why do you think the OEM arms are weak and break easy? Do you have any links I can check out?

Polyurethane bushings can actually last longer than rubber, but do require occasional maintenance (grease). Don't maintain them and they'll fail sooner.

I know you don't want an answer, but I'll provide one anyway: It looks like they have two set screws on the metal sleeve. Still not sure if it's effective at reducing the slip, but it might be better than this style: https://www.4wheelparts.com/v/jeep-...n/alignment-caster-camber-kit/_/N-1sj00Zcm5lo

Either way, I don't see how it would even be possible to adjust these once they are installed.

In my travels on this forum, I have seen a couple pics of candy caned arms that were supposedly not hit that hard. I can only speak to personal experience, but I did notice an incredible increase in rigidity when going from stock arms to aftermarket. I did all 8 at once. I've noticed the same, with every arm and linkage replaced.

I agree that its better to permanently modify an arm for this poly kit, versus the chassis bracket for those cam bolts. Didnt mean to come across rude, when saying don't answer. I figured they would either rely on the press fit, or drill for set screws. Either way makes me cringe at the thought of that wasted time, money, and energy to end up with the same subpar factory arms. And at that price, one is already most of the way to knocking on the door of a Metalcloak true dual rate lift.

 

[Moto_21]

The stock arms are thin wall square tubing, a good enough hit and theres a chance they can bend. If youre not really wheeling it then no big deal. If you want to spend that kind of money on bushings, id look at other kits that actually give springs, shocks and some form of lower control arms. They will generally have longer lasting bushings with better movement and be able to adjust. I mean i can probably piece together a kit with better stuff for cheaper. Just have to look around.

going through the hassle of taking all the arms off and pressingbushings in and out why do all that labor for sub par quality compared to just bolting a better arm up? I really dont understand this kit.

 

[Moto_21]

In my travels on this forum, I have seen a couple pics of candy caned arms that were supposedly not hit that hard. I can only speak to personal experience, but I did notice an incredible increase in rigidity when going from stock arms to aftermarket. I did all 8 at once. I've noticed the same, with every arm and linkage replaced.

I agree that its better to permanently modify an arm for this poly kit, versus the chassis bracket for those cam bolts. Didnt mean to come across rude, when saying don't answer. I figured they would either rely on the press fit, or drill for set screws. Either way makes me cringe at the thought of that wasted time, money, and energy to end up with the same subpar factory arms. And at that price, one is already most of the way to knocking on the door of a Metalcloak true dual rate lift.

Copy cat!

 

[Terminex]

I am a sports car guy, so just wanted to throw in a thought or two.

Poly bushings as mentioned are much harder than rubber. This affects ride quality. You will feel a LOT more with Poly. We like them in racing because we can feel what is happening. Daily driving a jeep, I do NOT want to add any more harshness to the ride.

on the positive side, Poly last a LOT longer than rubber. They also resist chemicals (oil, salt, etc....) MUCH better than rubber.

if you want something that is maintenance free for a much longer time, Poly is the way to go.

for me though, I have no interest in Poly for my JL. I do not want to add the harshness to the ride, and as others have mentioned it is money better spent on any number of great lift options.

Cheers!

 

[AnnDee4444]

Not really sure how fast @Rodeoflyer was going, but here's the only bent control arm I've been able to find on this forum so far. From https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/fo...ffroad-now-my-steering-wheel-is-90-off.54447/

 

[RubiJR]

Great discussion but now I'm thinking I should have bought a base model and just add everything with the money saved. My theory was a Rubicon and I would be close to set with a small lift for 35's after the 33's wore out. I am in SoCal so mostly desert running with a little rock crawling. I was looking at lifts but once you start you need to keep adding components until all of the stock stuff is gone so a sport might have worked out better. Hindsight

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