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E-torque is 48v of raw power, how do I use it to power my fridge?

TennesseePA

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I am using the 48V e-torque battery to power my compressor and fridge.

I am using a 48V to 24V DC-DC convertor, but same could be done 48V to 12V if you already had 12V accessories. I used a DC to DC by Vicor engineering but there are many good ones that are >90% efficiency.

The higher input voltage means more efficiency so I urge you to run at 24V if you can as you will get longer run-times.

The setup works well, and what is nice with this setup is I don't need to worry about discharging the primary battery. Even after a run down test the JL starts fine, tells you start/stop is disabled while the 48V is re-charged, and as this battery charges at a much higher current you get a very fast recovery when the engine is running.

Let me know if you need any help, but this is not a project for someone not comfortable with electrical systems. The 48V battery is lithium and if you screw up you have a fire on your hands that most fire extinguishers can not put out. This is why Tesla's like to burn to the ground.
May we inquire as to what all of the parts required to do this modification cost? Seems like it is a little above my pay grade but still interested in the details.
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oceanblue2019

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May we inquire as to what all of the parts required to do this modification cost? Seems like it is a little above my pay grade but still interested in the details.
The DC to DC power supply is about $150 depending on capacity. I went with a model that can deliver 1200W which gives me 50A usable at 24V. Remember that anything you run at 24V will take about 1/2 the amps as it does at 12V so for example a dual ARB compressor is 70A peak at 12V and only 35A at 24V. 50A is plenty for a compressor, fridge, etc. I did find another model rated at 720W (24V/30A) output for $50 on Amazon that I plan to test as it's much smaller and waterproof - so could be mounted under jeep near 48V battery.

Amazon 30A output power supply

Then you need wiring. The 48V is easily accessible at the battery. I used 8 AWG wire (remember 48V so less amps means smaller wire needed which is another benefit) to run to the cargo compartment. The wire was placed in snakeskin type loom double layered to get some added abrasion projection. I used a marine type stud mount fuse at the battery, 30A, to protect this run if a short. I prefer this type of fuse as you can mount it right onto the battery terminal bolt to protect as close to the source as possible. I use the same one up front for my winch (wish they made 24V or 48V winches!)

I mounted the power supply in the cargo compartment in the back, with a small power distribution/fuse block on it's output that gives me 6 circuits. I am using 2, one for the fridge and one for the compressor. From that point power runs back up to under the front passenger seat for the compressor.

Fuse block used at 48V battery:

Jeep Wrangler JL E-torque is 48v of raw power, how do I use it to power my fridge? 1595366548496


Fuse block after power supply:

Jeep Wrangler JL E-torque is 48v of raw power, how do I use it to power my fridge? 1595366680931
 

TennesseePA

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cool. Thats all I got...I can heal your body but I cannot figure out electricity for some reason.
 

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That point about amps, 48v means fewer amps, so why aren't winches 24v, the lower amperage draw would be better ?? Thanks i Two 12v batteries in series, we have 2 now, for the ESS
 

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Everywhere but North America they are 24v. Even our Military vehicles are 24V but we are so far down the 12V road now we can’t turn back.
 

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TennesseePA

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OK I am moving forward with the power supply thing but costs have started getting the best of me. I have created a gofundme page with one caveat. Anyone who donates will get double their donation back as a discount on a future product purchase up to $1,000. If anyone is interested you can read about me and the power supply I am developing here.

https://www.gofundme.com/new-eco-business-startup
 
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edjonesjeeper

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The DC to DC power supply is about $150 depending on capacity. I went with a model that can deliver 1200W which gives me 50A usable at 24V. Remember that anything you run at 24V will take about 1/2 the amps as it does at 12V so for example a dual ARB compressor is 70A peak at 12V and only 35A at 24V. 50A is plenty for a compressor, fridge, etc. I did find another model rated at 720W (24V/30A) output for $50 on Amazon that I plan to test as it's much smaller and waterproof - so could be mounted under jeep near 48V battery.

Amazon 30A output power supply

Then you need wiring. The 48V is easily accessible at the battery. I used 8 AWG wire (remember 48V so less amps means smaller wire needed which is another benefit) to run to the cargo compartment. The wire was placed in snakeskin type loom double layered to get some added abrasion projection. I used a marine type stud mount fuse at the battery, 30A, to protect this run if a short. I prefer this type of fuse as you can mount it right onto the battery terminal bolt to protect as close to the source as possible. I use the same one up front for my winch (wish they made 24V or 48V winches!)

I mounted the power supply in the cargo compartment in the back, with a small power distribution/fuse block on it's output that gives me 6 circuits. I am using 2, one for the fridge and one for the compressor. From that point power runs back up to under the front passenger seat for the compressor.

Fuse block used at 48V battery:

Fuse block after power supply:

This is Amazing and exactly what I was looking for. Have you ever thought about doing a youtube instructional video?

Thanks,
 

oceanblue2019

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This is Amazing and exactly what I was looking for. Have you ever thought about doing a youtube instructional video?

Thanks,
It's on my list but been so busy this summer that no time. Maybe once things slow down I will do something detailed.

Someone has asked if I would assemble and sell kits. While I'd love to I just don't have the time to dedicate to it and don't want to get into something that I can't be as responsive as I'd expect a seller to be.
 

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It’s very interesting but I don’t trust myself with something so unfamiliar to me. I’m lost at amps, volts, watts, DC etc and how it works together. Definitely doesn’t sound like a basic stereo install back in the day. :LOL: I do follow instructions quite well though.
 

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MrKnowitall

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That little write up said the system uses a 3kW converter to run the 12V portion of the vehicle. Hmmm
 

DavidArmen

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This thread was quite interesting. Shame it died, as I would have loved to know how exactly the etorque battery was tapped, considering it is a fully sealed system and it already has a 3,000 watt dc to dc converter built in, so how would you get a raw 48v signal? Very curious.
 

oceanblue2019

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Sorry let this drop, work and other commitments have taken my free hours for the most part.

1) Still working well, zero issues. Not changed a thing since last update.

2) Access to the rear cargo area was via a 1/2 hole I drilled and a cable gland installed to be able to seal back up to keep water and critters getting into the cabin.

3) The tapping into 48V is not tough as that runs between the BSG module and the power-pack module (which has the DC to DC convertor internal). Unfortunately 48V doesn't make it up to the power distribution module so you have to go under the Jeep to get to it.

4) The DC to DC converter internal to the power-pack is used to allow the 48V to be converted to 12V to power the Jeep systems and also charge the 12V battery if needed. It provides 12V @ ~25A. It does not allow the 12V system to charge the 48V -- the only 48V charging is via the BSG module when engine is running.

Hope this helps....and next time I get it on a lift will get some photos of the power take off.
 

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This whole e-torque thing as a high-power electric source has my curiosity. In one hand, a 48V winch would be slick, but just as interesting would be a 48VDC to 120VAC inverter. A 3kW pure sine wave unit is less than $400. You could run a whole camper on that.
 

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Very interested in this thread, any details you can share as to where to hook into the 48v battery would be great. From what you mentioned the 48v can be accessed from under the seat? Just trying to figure out an easy way to wire in a converter
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