Dynatrac Enduro Sport Lift for a Willys

[Greymatter]

I see these lift gives you about 2" but wondering if that is 2" on a rubicon or 2" on any model?

I have a Willys and considering putting rubicon springs with a 1" spacer in front and 1/2 in rear and thinking of maybe recreating the same lift with suspension.

The rubicon springs and spacers would give me almost a 2" lift which is perfect, would the Dynatrac just be a little higher or higher like the Mopar 2" lift?

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[GATORB8]

I see these lift gives you about 2" but wondering if that is 2" on a rubicon or 2" on any model?

I have a Willys and considering putting rubicon springs with a 1" spacer in front and 1/2 in rear and thinking of maybe recreating the same lift with suspension.

The rubicon springs and spacers would give me almost a 2" lift which is perfect, would the Dynatrac just be a little higher or higher like the Mopar 2" lift?

Trail recon got 2.5/2.2 on a Rubicon in his lift comparison video:

 

[Greymatter]

Trail recon got 2.5/2.2 on a Rubicon in his lift comparison video:

Saw that and was trying to figure out if that would equate to 3+" on a non-rubicon?

 

[GATORB8]

Saw that and was trying to figure out if that would equate to 3+" on a non-rubicon?

Yup

 

[Headbarcode]

The same lift put on a Rubicon and Sport/Sahara will put both at the same height. Non Rubicons always net more actual lift because lift kits are designed and based on Rubis.

Forgive the glare, but here's a stock JLUR with 315/70-17 bfgoodrich ko2's and the Dynatrac Endurosport with the same tires.

 

[JeepJLU402]

I just did the Dynatrac lift on my Sport S. I got 3 3/8” lift from it. I measured 12 different spots to take out any error.

 

[Cjanak21]

The same lift put on a Rubicon and Sport/Sahara will put both at the same height. Non Rubicons always net more actual lift because lift kits are designed and based on Rubis.

Forgive the glare, but here's a stock JLUR with 315/70-17 bfgoodrich ko2's and the Dynatrac Endurosport with the same tires.

looks great... was looking at this lift to run 37's with my 22' XR, I'm just nervous with the clearance with 37's and I know it says you can run them but I dont know how well thats gonna turn out, yes i've watched the trail recon YouTube video.

 

[Headbarcode]

looks great... was looking at this lift to run 37's with my 22' XR, I'm just nervous with the clearance with 37's and I know it says you can run them but I dont know how well thats gonna turn out, yes i've watched the trail recon YouTube video.

Here's the Dynatrac with 38's. The front fenders were chopped at this point, but the rears were still in tact and give some visual reference for clearance.

Here's a couple flex pics, but after I also chopped the rear fenders. Chopping the fenders allowed me to stick with the 2" bumpstop spacers that come with the Dynatrac lift.

 

[Cjanak21]

Here's the Dynatrac with 38's. The front fenders were chopped at this point, but the rears were still in tact and give some visual reference for clearance.

Here's a couple flex pics, but after I also chopped the rear fenders. Chopping the fenders allowed me to stick with the 2" bumpstop spacers that come with the Dynatrac lift.

Wow thanks so much for the info and pics man! Def helps my decision

 

[Headbarcode]

Wow thanks so much for the info and pics man! Def helps my decision

Glad to help!

I'd also highly recommend a few extra parts that will help fine tune the axles, which will help the overall ride and handling both on and off road. Front and rear adjustable lower control arms and track bars. The Dynatrac lift is advertised as not being large enough to throw geometry out of spec ranges, but it still moves the axles out of center. Those aftermarket arms and bars are also stronger, so they will better resist the flexing that the stockers will get from the increased forces that comes with larger tires.

You can very well get away without doing the above. But just be aware that the stock steering and suspension arms and linkages are only adequate for stock height and tires. Higher ride height equals higher leverages between the frame/body and the ground. The stock parts will not last as long, so expect to have to comb through them a bit sooner down the road than if kept completely stock.

A bit more food for thought. Unless you're specifically looking for as low of a center of gravity as possible, or wanting to stay below a certain overall height, you'll eventually spend the equivalent of a full kit. That's exactly what I did back when I had this Dynatrac lift. I supplemented it with all 8 control arms and rear track bar from Synergy and front track bar and steering linkages from Steersmarts.

Don't get me wrong, the Dynatrac is a great kit. It rode and handled better than with stock springs and shocks. Less brake dive and head toss just as advertised, but going larger than 35" tires brings a new level of stresses and leverages that will inevitably require beefier components. This beef will equal longevity and better ride and handling. Some will argue that they never leave the pavement, so they don't see the need for the beef. The reality is that, albeit different, on and off road forces are equally as great and reinforcement is needed to resist them.

Holy shit, that ran on longer than I expected! Still true, at least how I see it.

 

[boston3111]

Glad to help!

I'd also highly recommend a few extra parts that will help fine tune the axles, which will help the overall ride and handling both on and off road. Front and rear adjustable lower control arms and track bars. The Dynatrac lift is advertised as not being large enough to throw geometry out of spec ranges, but it still moves the axles out of center. Those aftermarket arms and bars are also stronger, so they will better resist the flexing that the stockers will get from the increased forces that comes with larger tires.

You can very well get away without doing the above. But just be aware that the stock steering and suspension arms and linkages are only adequate for stock height and tires. Higher ride height equals higher leverages between the frame/body and the ground. The stock parts will not last as long, so expect to have to comb through them a bit sooner down the road than if kept completely stock.

A bit more food for thought. Unless you're specifically looking for as low of a center of gravity as possible, or wanting to stay below a certain overall height, you'll eventually spend the equivalent of a full kit. That's exactly what I did back when I had this Dynatrac lift. I supplemented it with all 8 control arms and rear track bar from Synergy and front track bar and steering linkages from Steersmarts.

Don't get me wrong, the Dynatrac is a great kit. It rode and handled better than with stock springs and shocks. Less brake dive and head toss just as advertised, but going larger than 35" tires brings a new level of stresses and leverages that will inevitably require beefier components. This beef will equal longevity and better ride and handling. Some will argue that they never leave the pavement, so they don't see the need for the beef. The reality is that, albeit different, on and off road forces are equally as great and reinforcement is needed to resist them.

Holy shit, that ran on longer than I expected! Still true, at least how I see it.

Going through something similar as I am putting the new 38in Nitto ridge grapplers on my Willys. It has a 2.5in JKS lift and I scored some rubicon take off high-line fenders to help give some extra room for the 38s to clear.

 

[Headbarcode]

Going through something similar as I am putting the new 38in Nitto ridge grapplers on my Willys. It has a 2.5in JKS lift and I scored some rubicon take off high-line fenders to help give some extra room for the 38s to clear.

The beauty of the Rubicon fenders is they are of a 2-piece design and can easily be split for an additional 3.5" tire to fender clearance in the front and 2-2.5" in the rear. Depending on your amount of articulation, a set of rubicon rear fenders wouldn't be a bad idea, if chopping the fenders is in your future.

Speaking of the rear. You might have to do some trimming on the rear pinch seam to fully stuff the 38's. Otherwise, you'll have to use some extra bumpstop spacers to keep the tire off the seam. I adjusted my 8 control arms to not only fix geometry, but to also center the axles in the wheelwells at normal ride height. This preserves approach and departure angle, but requires a bit more trimming. Here's a pick of my 38's in the pinch seam, about 2ish" before full stuff.

 

[boston3111]

The beauty of the Rubicon fenders is they are of a 2-piece design and can easily be split for an additional 3.5" tire to fender clearance in the front and 2-2.5" in the rear. Depending on your amount of articulation, a set of rubicon rear fenders wouldn't be a bad idea, if chopping the fenders is in your future.

Speaking of the rear. You might have to do some trimming on the rear pinch seam to fully stuff the 38's. Otherwise, you'll have to use some extra bumpstop spacers to keep the tire off the seam. I adjusted my 8 control arms to not only fix geometry, but to also center the axles in the wheelwells at normal ride height. This preserves approach and departure angle, but requires a bit more trimming. Here's a pick of my 38's in the pinch seam, about 2ish" before full stuff.

 

[boston3111]

Just got the fenders and 38s installed. Had to change up the bump stops a little.

 

[Rockstar08]

Just got the fenders and 38s installed. Had to change up the bump stops a little.

Wow that is a massive tire but looks really good! I do have a question are you doing a regear for that since you only have the 3:45 gears in the Willys? Also are you concerned at all about the weaker D30 axles in the front with such a large heavy tire do you plan on upgrading your front axle also per chance just curious??

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