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DSTRAC ultra 70 axle review

CaJLMetalHead

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Honestly that was recommended. I wouldn’t have mind going to a 1410 but it’s too late lol. Also I think they just added the 1480 and 1550 options not too long ago

I went with 4.88 because I do a lot of highway driving so keeping the rpm’s low helps with the fuel economy now that I’m on 40’s
4.88 .. ok.. I get it.. I understand the balance... I would like 5.13 but even right now I have 40-inch tires on stock Dana44 with 4.10 gear ratio, also... my JLU is a Sport so I still have the Sport transfer case with 2.72:1 low-range gear ratio... Even with this perhaps non-optimal configuration I am able to tackle difficult off-roading trails with success.. I think Rubicons have a transfer case with 4:1 low-range gear ratio... I need to get a second job and buy the DStrac axles!.. LOL...

Ohh ok.. from what I understand choosing a pinion yoke size is a matter of balance... a stronger pinion yoke transfers the weak point to other components like Diff and transfer case... so a weaker pinion yoke will break before diff, driveshaft, or transfer case... certainly a cheaper failure and easier to repair.. LOL

Thanks for the update..
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4.88 .. ok.. I get it.. I understand the balance... I would like 5.13 but even right now I have 40-inch tires on stock Dana44 with 4.10 gear ratio, also... my JLU is a Sport so I still have the Sport transfer case with 2.72:1 low-range gear ratio... Even with this perhaps non-optimal configuration I am able to tackle difficult off-roading trails with success.. I think Rubicons have a transfer case with 4:1 low-range gear ratio... I need to get a second job and buy the DStrac axles!.. LOL...

Ohh ok.. from what I understand choosing a pinion yoke size is a matter of balance... a stronger pinion yoke transfers the weak point to other components like Diff and transfer case... so a weaker pinion yoke will break before diff, driveshaft, or transfer case... certainly a cheaper failure and easier to repair.. LOL

Thanks for the update..
Yep. I would much rather fix/replace a driveshaft than an axle shaft any day.
 

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I would like 5.13 but even right now I have 40-inch tires on stock Dana44 with 4.10 gear ratio, also... my JLU is a Sport so I still have the Sport transfer case with 2.72:1 low-range gear ratio... Even with this perhaps non-optimal configuration I am able to tackle difficult off-roading trails with success.. I think Rubicons have a transfer case with 4:1 low-range gear ratio...
But you have an automatic for torque multiplication - right? 40's with 4.10 differentials and 2.72 xfer case might be sketchy on a stick.

The Dynatrac CODE1 build on 42's and XD60/80 started with a sport and left the 2.72 xfer case. When I talked to them, they recommended I do the same to save money.
 

CaJLMetalHead

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But you have an automatic for torque multiplication - right? 40's with 4.10 differentials and 2.72 xfer case might be sketchy on a stick.

The Dynatrac CODE1 build on 42's and XD60/80 started with a sport and left the 2.72 xfer case. When I talked to them, they recommended I do the same to save money.
Indeed... I have done difficult trails with my setup and I was successful always.. if anything perhaps a bit lower gear ratio somewhere (transfer case/axles) for more finesse in feathering the throttle pedal... but nothing you cannot achieve by feathering both the throttle and the brake pedals at the same time..
 
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Frezski

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Honestly that was recommended. I wouldn’t have mind going to a 1410 but it’s too late lol. Also I think they just added the 1480 and 1550 options not too long ago

I went with 4.88 because I do a lot of highway driving so keeping the rpm’s low helps with the fuel economy now that I’m on 40’s
Love the progress you've made over the past year! Lookin sharp! Since you do a lot highway with a 392, 4.88s and 37s, how did she do on fuel economy? Granted Texas speeds are a lot higher than my state. Out of curiosity, now that you're on 40s, have you noticed a difference with the tire size increase in regards to the butt dyno, fuel efficiency, or hunting gears?

When I did the 392 swap last year and drove back home from Texas, I noticed a huge difference in highway fuel economy at varying speeds. 80Mph was like 10-11 mpg. 75 was 12-14 mpg. 70 is about 15mpg, 65 is about 16-17mpg. It's current set up is completely minimal. Take off 392 springs, 35" Nitto Trail Grapplers, KMC Machete's, and factory 4.10 gears. After about a year with it, driving my normal patterns and speeds it has yielded me the just about the same fuel economy average that the factory 3.6 got in the wheel/tire and suspension combo. Results vary with set ups, but it seems most efficient for highway when RPMs stay within 1500-2k.

I'm going to 1 tons and 40s in a month and I honestly had to debate on whether I wanted 5.13s or 4.88s. I understand the ratio difference is minimal but it could make a difference on long distance travel. I ended up with going with 5.13 and curious how you feel with 40s and 4.88s compared to when you were on 37s? Not much info is out there, because I was also feeling that between the power and the 4:1 transfer case when in 4L, that 4.88s would most likely be an optimal choice for my needs. But in the back of my mind I really didn't want to run into hardly seeing 8th gear and have it constantly hunt gears down the highway since I live in a hilly area.

Thanks for any insight!
 
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my_0range_crush

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Love the progress you've made over the past year! Lookin sharp! Since you do a lot highway with a 392, 4.88s and 37s, how did she do on fuel economy? Granted Texas speeds are a lot higher than my state. Out of curiosity, now that you're on 40s, have you noticed a difference with the tire size increase in regards to the butt dyno, fuel efficiency, or hunting gears?

When I did the 392 swap last year and drove back home from Texas, I noticed a huge difference in highway fuel economy at varying speeds. 80Mph was like 10-11 mpg. 75 was 12-14 mpg. 70 is about 15mpg, 65 is about 16-17mpg. It's current set up is completely minimal. Take off 392 springs, 35" Nitto Trail Grapplers, KMC Machete's, and factory 4.10 gears. After about a year with it, driving my normal patterns and speeds it has yielded me the just about the same fuel economy average that the factory 3.6 got in the wheel/tire and suspension combo. Results vary with set ups, but it seems most efficient for highway when RPMs stay within 1500-2k.

I'm going to 1 tons and 40s in a month and I honestly had to debate on whether I wanted 5.13s or 4.88s. I understand the ratio difference is minimal but it could make a difference on long distance travel. I ended up with going with 5.13 and curious how you feel with 40s and 4.88s compared to when you were on 37s? Not much info is out there, because I was also feeling that between the power and the 4:1 transfer case when in 4L, that 4.88s would most likely be an optimal choice for my needs. But in the back of my mind I really didn't want to run into hardly seeing 8th gear and have it constantly hunt gears down the highway since I live in a hilly area.

Thanks for any insight!

So as far as my fuel economy goes I have notice it going up! With the dana 44’s, 5.13 gears, and 37’s I was getting 13.3 MPG’s. With the ultra 70’s, 4.88 and 40’s in getting around 14.4 mpg! My rpm’s went from 2200 down to 2000 rpm’s at 70 mph. As far as the butt dyno goes I’m not surprised it’s not as peppy with the 44’s but the ultra 70’s weighs SO MUCH more! It can still get up and go when I need it to.
 

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So as far as my fuel economy goes I have notice it going up! With the dana 44’s, 5.13 gears, and 37’s I was getting 13.3 MPG’s. With the ultra 70’s, 4.88 and 40’s in getting around 14.4 mpg! My rpm’s went from 2200 down to 2000 rpm’s at 70 mph. As far as the butt dyno goes I’m not surprised it’s not as peppy with the 44’s but the ultra 70’s weighs SO MUCH more! It can still get up and go when I need it to.
Thanks for your insight man! Didn't mean to hijack your thread.. I understand that pushing 40s and 1 tons are gonna eat away the feel, but it also sounds like the 4.88 choice wasn't a bad thing at all especially if your doing a lot of highway.
 
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How do these compare to something like the Fusion4x4 Super Kingpin 60? And Dana 80 for the rear?

I know the Dstrac are cheaper and come with a RPM steering component.

Jeep Wrangler JL DSTRAC ultra 70 axle review D5B4A72E-C0EE-423D-AD34-13ADCA5218B6
so I just went on fusions4x4 and built out just the front axle and just to make it the same spec as the DSTRAC your looking at $12k. The other full sets are much more expensive then the DSTRAC set. Plus I forgot to mention that the brakes on the DSTRAC are MASSIVE! The 4 piston front and 2 rear can easily stop my heavy rig.
 

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J0E

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1996cc

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What is that in inches? For instance the wheels I'm running now or a 3.5-in backspace.
Two different measurements. Your 3.5” number is backspacing. His -38mm is offset. Offset is a measurement from the center of the wheel to the wheel mount surface. It’s really confusing. My mind works better just using backspacing.
 
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Two different measurements. Your 3.5” number is backspacing. His -38mm is offset. Offset is a measurement from the center of the wheel to the wheel mount surface. It’s really confusing. My mind works better just using backspacing.
That's what I'm trying to say He's talking about offset I'm talking about actual backspacing of the wheel That's not the backspace of the wheel so I'm wondering what his backspacing is ....
 

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That's what I'm trying to say He's talking about offset I'm talking about actual backspacing of the wheel That's not the backspace of the wheel so I'm wondering what his backspacing is ....
On a 9" wide wheel (10" effectively), -38 mm offset will have a 3.5" backspace.
It's like saying the same thing two different ways both basically giving you the same information. If you know one of the measurements you can figure out the other as long as you know the total wheel width (i.e. 10/2 = 5-38mm, or 1.496 offset = 3.504 BS).

I like the use of backspace personally, it's just easier.
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