Driving in deep sand - 19 Sahara 6mt with LSD

[JoeFromPA]

All,

I’m an experienced manual transmission driver and mild off roader. I’ve driven on deep sand with a variety of vehicles and DE beaches (where I am now ) for a few years in an AWD stock Subaru Outback without a problem (many 4wd vehicles get stuck here)

I took the JL out and for the life of me I can’t get the electronic nannies to stop cutting power In 4H to the point I’ve stalled probably 20+ times trying to get it to work. I can ONLY get rolling from a stop in 4L which gives me zero difficulty after it disables all the electronic systems. And I’ve pulled up deep inclines in deep sand in 4L with 25 psi in the tires so it doesn’t
Appear to be either my driving skills nor traction.

In anything but 4lo the Jeep is severely cutting power to the point I stall out even with significant t throttle.

For what it’s worth in the other modes from
A stop I hold down traction control off button for 5-8 seconds and see the message that both TC and electronic stability control are off. However in 4H with ESC off going
On or up the same sandy beaches from a stop I’m
Getting non stop chattering and throttle pull and bogging and shortly stalling.

Would appreciate any tips. As of now I’m
Not driving from a stop on real sand until
I’m in 4lo

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[Peanut Butter]

It’s not apples to apples. But, I have a Rubicon on 37s with stock 4:10 gears (6 speed). And, i had a fair amount of off road time with an old CJ7 on 35s.

In 4h, before the the 37s, it took a lot of clutch work to get started on steep hills or playing in washes. With the 37s, 4H is borderline useless Offroad.

I mostly switch between 2H and 4L when I’m off-roading.

Though in my situation, I don’t think it’s anything electronic. I think it’s under-geared for heavy tires and lots of load.

4L is still great, I just doesn’t feel right to be in 4th gear to drive 20mph without it reving through the roof.

My solution is to regear.

I imagine your Sahara with smaller tires and lower gears feels very similar.

Hope it helps...

 

[Rubicon29527]

It’s not apples to apples. But, I have a Rubicon on 37s with stock 4:10 gears (6 speed). And, i had a fair amount of off road time with an old CJ7 on 35s.

In 4h, before the the 37s, it took a lot of clutch work to get started on steep hills or playing in washes. With the 37s, 4H is borderline useless Offroad.

I mostly switch between 2H and 4L when I’m off-roading.

Though in my situation, I don’t think it’s anything electronic. I think it’s under-geared for heavy tires and lots of load.

4L is still great, I just doesn’t feel right to be in 4th gear to drive 20mph without it reving through the roof.

My solution is to regear.

I imagine your Sahara with smaller tires and lower gears feels very similar.

Hope it helps...

 

[Rubicon29527]

I normally go to 4l in deep sand regardless just to keep the heat down, but I do have the 8 speed auto. It's so hot in SC that I do what I can to keep engine and transmission temps down

 

[JoeFromPA]

Are there any other tricks to completely de-activative electronic nannies in 4H? I need to be able to get wheel spin reliably without anything cutting engine power or braking a spinning wheel.

 

[BobBarker]

That is probably a very rare configuration!

 

[brazos]

Are there any other tricks to completely de-activative electronic nannies in 4H? I need to be able to get wheel spin reliably without anything cutting engine power or braking a spinning wheel.

I’ve said it before, but I’m going to keep saying it:
I love my JLU Jeep, but all of this electronic “you’re a moron, so we’re going to make smarter decisions than you would make, to save you from your stupid self” stuff is driving me nuts.
I RESENT IT AND I HATE IT!!!

 

[mwilk012]

Are there any other tricks to completely de-activative electronic nannies in 4H? I need to be able to get wheel spin reliably without anything cutting engine power or braking a spinning wheel.

ESC can be disabled by holding the button for several seconds. The Tazer could probably help you out too, but I don’t know if it’s actually possible to disable the BLD.

 

[JoeFromPA]

That is probably a very rare configuration!

What do you mean?

 

[BobBarker]

What do you mean?

The number of Sahara’s with both the 6mt and lsd is very, very small.

 

[Roky]

All,

I’m an experienced manual transmission driver and mild off roader. I’ve driven on deep sand with a variety of vehicles and DE beaches (where I am now ) for a few years in an AWD stock Subaru Outback without a problem (many 4wd vehicles get stuck here)

I took the JL out and for the life of me I can’t get the electronic nannies to stop cutting power In 4H to the point I’ve stalled probably 20+ times trying to get it to work. I can ONLY get rolling from a stop in 4L which gives me zero difficulty after it disables all the electronic systems. And I’ve pulled up deep inclines in deep sand in 4L with 25 psi in the tires so it doesn’t
Appear to be either my driving skills nor traction.

In anything but 4lo the Jeep is severely cutting power to the point I stall out even with significant t throttle.

For what it’s worth in the other modes from
A stop I hold down traction control off button for 5-8 seconds and see the message that both TC and electronic stability control are off. However in 4H with ESC off going
On or up the same sandy beaches from a stop I’m
Getting non stop chattering and throttle pull and bogging and shortly stalling.

Would appreciate any tips. As of now I’m
Not driving from a stop on real sand until
I’m in 4lo

Have you considered getting lockers? They have torq lockers for Dana 30. I have my lockers wired to my aux switches, took the computer out of the equation. 2wd, 4h or 4 lo, and speed doesn’t affect it. No bld bulls&@t. I know in some situations bld is a good thing , but for me, I want to be in control of my rig....

 

[JoeFromPA]

The number of Sahara’s with both the 6mt and lsd is very, very small.

Good to know. If you aren't going to order a rubi, and therefore aren't a rock crawler but still want maximum traction and control, I can't think of a better setup than the 6mt and LSD.

 

[JoeFromPA]

Have you considered getting lockers? They have torq lockers for Dana 30. I have my lockers wired to my aux switches, took the computer out of the equation. 2wd, 4h or 4 lo, and speed doesn’t affect it. No bld bulls&@t. I know in some situations bld is a good thing , but for me, I want to be in control of my rig....

I have not but I see indication I may be able to hook up a switch to disconnect the electronic nannies.

 

[D60]

I see people throwing around LSD and BLD but which EXACTLY does the OP have?

I have a hard time believing a typical clutch-driven LSD is causing his symptoms (other than *maybe* some pulling in the steering, but that'd require an LS in the front diff)

Now, a BLD could certainly make for a choppy throttle I'd think....?

 

[JoeFromPA]

I see people throwing around LSD and BLD but which EXACTLY does the OP have?

I have a hard time believing a typical clutch-driven LSD is causing his symptoms (other than *maybe* some pulling in the steering, but that'd require an LS in the front diff)

Now, a BLD could certainly make for a choppy throttle I'd think....?

As far as I know, I have both and I believe it was either BLD OR recurrent ESC causing the inability to accelerate and stalling while the LSD (or BLD) was causing the serious chattering when I was "forcing" the vehicle to accelerate to avoid stalling.

To re-state it, I was UNABLE to accelerate or throttle up from a standstill in deep sand. And I was not spinning/digging down. I was bogged forcing a stall because the engine would not rev. I believe that's ESC but it could have been BLD preventing wheelspin.

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