ChattVol

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Motobilt sliders. These mount to the body bolts and the body. Got lucky, Doetsch was able to remove all the bolts without breaking one. They’ve done a bunch of JL sliders and have the install requirements/bolt removal nailed down, no issues.
Following...awesome build! Is this an auto or manual? I'm looking at regearing my manual on 37s and am curious why you chose 4.88 gears over 5.13?
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Gorilla57

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Following...awesome build! Is this an auto or manual? I'm looking at regearing my manual on 37s and am curious why you chose 4.88 gears over 5.13?
Auto. Went 4.88 because this will eventually get the Mag supercharger. It’s already got the AFE “headers”, Y pipe and 3” rear high tuck muffler. So, it’s ready for the S/C.
 

bkjolly

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Auto. Went 4.88 because this will eventually get the Mag supercharger. It’s already got the AFE “headers”, Y pipe and 3” rear high tuck muffler. So, it’s ready for the S/C.
That's a combo that I'm sure a lot of people would be interested in hearing about.
 

Gorilla57

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That's a combo that I'm sure a lot of people would be interested in hearing about.
The AFE exhaust pieces are really nice. I totally pieced it together since they don't sell a full setup like that. I originally had the AFE Hi-Tuck cat back system and it was a little too loud for me. Then I added the 3" Hi-Tuck axle back system and loved it. Then added the AFE Street Series downpipes/cats and the AFE Y-pipe. Tons of extra flow there. The sound was nice and mellow until you opened it up. Then I decided to do the RK long arm kit. Realized that the AFE Hi-tuck cat back setup hung lower than the frame, so put the factory mid piece back in. It is the one that connects the y-pipe to the axle back piece. This is a bit louder since the AFE resonator is 3 times the size as the factory one. Now, due to the long arm from RK, I had to add the Loop Delete pipe. It's lost a little of the good sound, but clears the long arm kit. As you can tell, WAY too much time and money in this exhaust setup. Hopefully Doestch can figure out how to put on the Mag supercharger along with my PSC steering setup. Runs good now, but the SC setup would be sweet.
 
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Motobilt sliders. These mount to the body bolts and the body. Got lucky, Doetsch was able to remove all the bolts without breaking one. They’ve done a bunch of JL sliders and have the install requirements/bolt removal nailed down, no issues.
What was their method to remove the body bolts? Heat and impact?
 
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The Custom Jeep Builder

The Custom Jeep Builder

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What was their method to remove the body bolts? Heat and impact?
Just a matter of patience with a breaker bar. No heat needed...just as Brian said above. After a few early fails in the JLs we figured out to just take it slow and steady on the troublesome couple of bolts that want to snap.
 
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I think Todd said they do the “loosen - retighten” with a breaker bar. No heat. Hopefully Todd can chime in on this.
That's probably how I would have approached it until I read all the folks heating and using impacts. Thanks.
 
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Just a matter of patience with a breaker bar. No heat needed...just as Brian said above. After a few early fails in the JLs we figured out to just take it slow and steady on the troublesome couple of bolts that want to snap.
Thanks for replying. I'll tackle some ARB rock rail installs this weekend.
 
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The Custom Jeep Builder

The Custom Jeep Builder

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Chase’s JLU Rubicon needed the ultimate beef, so we installed a 3.5” Rock Krawler Suspension lift system with 3.3 Series fully adjustable piggyback Falcon Shocks.

From there, a set of 38” Patagonia tires were mounted on 17” KMC Wheels Machete Beadlock wheels, along with a rear spare tire delete.

Next, a pair of Rigid Industries - LED Lighting side shooter LED lights were mounted at the a-pillar, as well as a Rigid 20” Adapt Lightbar

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