DIY SwayBar Quick Disconnects?

[IPvFletch]

I'm getting adjustable length swaybar end-links with my RC 3.5" lift already, so I'm just looking for a way to quickly disconnect them.

I see JKS has a kit, but it includes new adjustable length sway-bar end-links, which I don't want to pay for since I'm already getting some.

So can I just get a pair of these and put them in, in place of the bolts?

OR these?

Also, does it matter if you disconnect sway bar end-links at the bottom (axle-end) or at the top (sway bar-end)? I get that one way might make it more complicated to tuck it out of the way, but just trying to understand the difference.

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[TTEChris]

I'm getting adjustable length swaybar end-links with my RC 3.5" lift already, so I'm just looking for a way to quickly disconnect them.

I see JKS has a kit, but it includes new adjustable length sway-bar end-links, which I don't want to pay for since I'm already getting some.

So can I just get a pair of these and put them in, in place of the bolts?

OR these?

Also, does it matter if you disconnect sway bar end-links at the bottom (axle-end) or at the top (sway bar-end)? I get that one way might make it more complicated to tuck it out of the way, but just trying to understand the difference.

Im not sure how those would work with the metal insert in most sway bar links, and most links don't have a flexible rubber joint like the JKS(I put that setup on my wife's today.) The passenger side may work with the bottom set if they are a tight fit since it is a double sheer mount. I think on the driver side you would run into issues with too much movement unless your links have a removable sleeve then the top option may work.
The JKS works well because both the upper and lower are like rubber ball joints. There is enough movement to slide them off the pins.

 

[IPvFletch]

Im not sure how those would work with the metal insert in most sway bar links, and most links don't have a flexible rubber joint like the JKS(I put that setup on my wife's today.) The passenger side may work with the bottom set if they are a tight fit since it is a double sheer mount. I think on the driver side you would run into issues with too much movement unless your links have a removable sleeve then the top option may work.
The JKS works well because both the upper and lower are like rubber ball joints. There is enough movement to slide them off the pins.

Well as best I can tell, the kit I'm getting (RC #65531) has bushings built into the sway bar end-links:

They do sell their own QD kit, but aside from the pins, chrome, and adjustable length, they look about the same, so I'm thinking some cotter/clevis pins like I posted earlier should work perfectly.

 

[TTEChris]

Well as best I can tell, the kit I'm getting (RC #65531) has bushings built into the sway bar end-links:

They do sell their own QD kit, but aside from the pins, chrome, and adjustable length, they look about the same, so I'm thinking some cotter/clevis pins like I posted earlier should work perfectly.

I believe the front links on that kit are the links with the bend in them. I like the solid pin idea for the passenget side as long as it is a snug fit inside the bushings. Getting the pin out if not properly greased would be the biggest problem i see.

I just wouldnt be certain those upper bushings would flex enough when clamped into place to easily slide them off the lower pins(first option you listed.) The RC disconnects have a ball joint on the upper end that would allow plenty of movement to slide off that style pin.

If there is enough movement to slide the links on/off and the diameter of the holes minus the metal sleeve is the same i dont see why it wouldn't work.

On the JKS kit I had to cut off the outter tab for the factory sway bar links to mount a "stud". If you get a pin that goes all the way through both ends of the lower mount you can probably avoid that.

 

[IPvFletch]

Ok so I looked at the JKS instructions (http://4x4media.info/instructions/jks/JKS2032-2033.pdf) and now what you're saying makes more sense. Their method mounts the pin to the axle "permanently" and so you have to move/wiggle the end-link to unmount it once unclipped. I was thinking the pin would be fully removable and not bolted to the axle mount, but I wonder if that would be too much force on the mount tabs for normal wear and tear on-road. Maybe that's why it has to be a more solid bolt-type mount.

 

[TTEChris]

Take a couple releasable zip ties with you and hang them off the hole in the upper spring perch where the JKS mount attaches in the picture below.

 

[TTEChris]

Thinking about it,
I have some long(2" or so) cylindrical rare earth magnets at the shop that are extremely strong. You may be able to attach them to the upper spring perch and then stick the link to them. These things are so strong it's hard to get them apart if they stick together.
I'll send you a picture tomorrow and can mail you a pair if it looks like something you could put to use. We purchased a bunch for another project but never put them to use.

 

[IPvFletch]

Cool - check out my post above - any idea if a non-bolted/non-"permanent" quick disco would suffice, or does it have to be bolted in like the JKS kit does?

 

[TTEChris]

I think on the driver side you have to have a solid bolt type mount, but if you look at the passenger side the link fits between the two brackets and would probably be fine with a pin style mount as long as it is a fairly tight fit with little to no play. If the driver side works you can always cut the tab on the passenger side to do the same.

 

[IPvFletch]

Well yeah I was hopeful to not have to cut the tabs and just go straight through.. Hmmm.. I wonder if the driver's side has a fixed mount to keep it from walking too much to one side.

 

[TTEChris]

That's the magnet(s) I have. I'm not sure if it would be strong enough to hold the swaybar with lots of shaking/bumps etc but it will easily hold the weight of a link against the spring perch. The bushings while new will also assist in holding the swaybar up, but once they get worn down I'm sure the weight of the bar will overcome the strength of the magnets.

 

[mgroeger]

Any chance you could post some pics of your JL with these on it? I'm having a real hard time visualizing the passenger side. The driver's side is straight forward and looks like the JK but it is slightly offset. However the passenger side has the bottom piece of the link, (the part that gets disconnected) buried in a steel bracket that you have to pull the sway bar link OUT of instead of pulling it OFF of like the driver's side.

Also the Rancho and JKS links don't appear to have the offset that is needed for the JL, the JK links were straight.

http://www.gorancho.com/products/ac...nt-disconnect-sway-bar-link-kit-rs62126b.html

http://jksmfg.com/i-24048403-quicke...-0-lift-wrangler-jl.html?ref=category:1205540

 

[IPvFletch]

I think he had to trim the "tab" off the one side of that bracket it is buried in, so it can come off like the driver's side..

 

[mgroeger]

Yeah I saw that in the PDF doc he posted. Yuk, me no likey doing that but I don't see a way around it.

 

[mgroeger]

I think the Rancho one adds a bracket to offset instead of cut that tab??? Can't tell and can't find pics of an install, plus the PDF file isn't on their site yet.
http://www.gorancho.com/products/ac...nt-disconnect-sway-bar-link-kit-rs62126b.html

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