RubiSc0tt
Well-Known Member
- First Name
- Scott
- Joined
- Jun 12, 2018
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- 56
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- Location
- Upstate NY
- Vehicle(s)
- 2019 JLUR in Punk'n Orange
- Build Thread
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- Turn Wrenches/ Write code
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- #1
Overhead CB Mount for JL Wrangler:
Materials:
-Steel tubing (square or round)- Minimum 44” length. Can be varying thickness, as it’s not structural but it does need to be strong enough to hold a full size CB.
-2 flat steel 9”x2”x1/8” flat steel brackets- I found these under the shelving/ fence section of my local hardware store
4 5/16x1.5” Hex bolts (these will hold the CB bar together)
2- M8x1.25” hex bolts (these thread into the JL door surround)
4- ¼ 20 Lock nuts
4- 1/4x1” Fender Washers
Spray paint (1 can of your color of choice)
Foam Pool noodle
Zip ties
Tools:
Angle Grinder with cutoff wheel
Drill w/ bits (I used 7/16” hole)
1” diameter Step up bit
Wire wheel attachment (for grinder or drill)
sockets/Wrenches (according to bolt sizes).
Procedure:
1). Cut your steel tubing down to 44” width. This is the span inside the JL roll bars. This will let it hang so it does not interfere with Hard top.
2). Line L-brackets up on top of Steel tubing. If there are existing holes, use a Sharpie to Mark the holes for drilling. Mine varied a bit, so I just Measured ~1” in from the edge of the tubing. This gave the tubing enough space to clear the JL roll bar when hanging from the L-Brackets. I had to do some test fitting and ended up drilling new holes in the L Brackets anyway.
3). Once holes are marked and measured, use the drill to drill them out. My bolts were 5/16”, so I used a 7/16” bit. Just make sure your hole is large enough to fit the bolt through without damaging the threads
4). Assemble and test fit. Use two of the 5/16x1.5” hex bolts backed with a Fender washer on either side and a Nylock nut for each to bolt the tubing to the bottom side of the L brackets. I faced the hex head up to avoid interference with my sunshade top. You want the L brackets to sit just inboard of the roll bar. For me, I mounted them on the rear 1” hole with the right angle facing forward. This allowed enough room to clear the Hard top center latches in the front. Make alterations as needed, depending on your preferences.
5). Mark and measure a line at the mid point of your steel tubing. This should be about 22”, but if you want the radio to be closer or farther away from the driver, it will differ. Mine is slightly closer to the driver.
6). Line CB mounting bracket up, and mark holes for each mounting location. Drill out holes. This time with the CB mounting bracket installed, use the other two 5/16x1.5” bolts and nylock nuts to bolt the CB mounting bracket to the CB bar tubing. I usually face the hex head down to allow for better clearance of the radio body.
7). Test fit again. Center the L Brackets over the 1” hole closest to the B Pillar (rear of driver compartment). Mark the center of this using a Sharpie. (see picture in next step)
8). Use the step up bit to drill out a 1” diameter hole in the L Brackets. This is important if you use a Mopar Soft top as this will allow you to use the CB bar without interfering with the OEM Door surrounds- it should just slide under and the door surround will hold it in place.
9). Test fit again. Use the M8-1.25” bolts secured with a fender washer on top (if you’re not installing with a soft top), and a fender washer and nylock nut on the bottom. This should be your final test fit to make sure everything lines up and you’re satisfied with your results.
10). Disassemble the CB bar. Hit it with the wire brush to remove any dirt/ oxidation/ rough edges, and scuff the surface for paint.. I wiped mine down with mineral spirits and let it dry in the sun.
11). Once dry, apply a coat of spray paint. I used the Rustoleum Lacquer. It’s high gloss and looks great. My L Brackets were pre painted but I had to do some touch up where I removed some of the burs from the drill.
12). FINAL ASSEMBLY: bolt everything together (as listed in previous steps). Bolt into Jeep. If you have a soft top, the L Brackets should slide right under the nub and the door surrounds. If you’re using a hard top, just make sure to use the Fender washer on top as well.
13). Install your CB Radio and run your cables. Fasten to tubing with small zip ties, and trim excess zip tie lenght
14). Slice the foam pool noodle down the center to open it up. Measure and mark the center section where the CB Mounting bracket is.
15). Cut the foam noodle into 3 pieces based on your measurements from previous step.
16). With opening facing up, wrap foam around CB bar on left and right sections. Secure with zip ties, and cut excess length. Beware sharp edges.
17). With opening facing down, place center section over the top of the section with the CB mounting bracket. Secure with zip ties, and cut excess length.
There you have it! Overhead CB bar for the JL.
Notes and final thoughts:
-I added the foam for head protection. I’m 5’9” and sometimes if I lean forward it would come close to my head. As it is, the brim of my hat contacts the foam sometimes if i’m fidgeting in my seat when I first get in the Jeep. The CB can be kind of close to your head and could be a hazard for sudden lateral movement (when you’re getting in or if you get into an accident). I’m not entirely comfortable with the positioning between the driver and passenger and I may get new L-Brackets to move it farther forward, away from the lateral head movement zone this summer. If you’re taller than me, You may want to do the same.
-This took me a few months of weekends and days off to figure out, and lots of measuring/ remeasuring/ drilling/ testing. I bought a lot of hardware to get it right. In the end, mine isn’t very clean or pretty (because of that trial and error method, and time) but I could probably re-do it again and it would be much nicer. Overall, this probably cost me around $30 for all the materials. I had to buy a few tools but it was still cheaper than some of the pre-made online alternatives.
-I’ve had it installed since late August, and so far it has yet to rattle. The bar is strong enough for me to hoist myself up on it, but I wouldn’t use it in place of grab handles and I wouldn’t count on it adding any rigidity to the roll bar.
Materials:
-Steel tubing (square or round)- Minimum 44” length. Can be varying thickness, as it’s not structural but it does need to be strong enough to hold a full size CB.
-2 flat steel 9”x2”x1/8” flat steel brackets- I found these under the shelving/ fence section of my local hardware store
4 5/16x1.5” Hex bolts (these will hold the CB bar together)
2- M8x1.25” hex bolts (these thread into the JL door surround)
4- ¼ 20 Lock nuts
4- 1/4x1” Fender Washers
Spray paint (1 can of your color of choice)
Foam Pool noodle
Zip ties
Tools:
Angle Grinder with cutoff wheel
Drill w/ bits (I used 7/16” hole)
1” diameter Step up bit
Wire wheel attachment (for grinder or drill)
sockets/Wrenches (according to bolt sizes).
Procedure:
1). Cut your steel tubing down to 44” width. This is the span inside the JL roll bars. This will let it hang so it does not interfere with Hard top.
2). Line L-brackets up on top of Steel tubing. If there are existing holes, use a Sharpie to Mark the holes for drilling. Mine varied a bit, so I just Measured ~1” in from the edge of the tubing. This gave the tubing enough space to clear the JL roll bar when hanging from the L-Brackets. I had to do some test fitting and ended up drilling new holes in the L Brackets anyway.
3). Once holes are marked and measured, use the drill to drill them out. My bolts were 5/16”, so I used a 7/16” bit. Just make sure your hole is large enough to fit the bolt through without damaging the threads
4). Assemble and test fit. Use two of the 5/16x1.5” hex bolts backed with a Fender washer on either side and a Nylock nut for each to bolt the tubing to the bottom side of the L brackets. I faced the hex head up to avoid interference with my sunshade top. You want the L brackets to sit just inboard of the roll bar. For me, I mounted them on the rear 1” hole with the right angle facing forward. This allowed enough room to clear the Hard top center latches in the front. Make alterations as needed, depending on your preferences.
5). Mark and measure a line at the mid point of your steel tubing. This should be about 22”, but if you want the radio to be closer or farther away from the driver, it will differ. Mine is slightly closer to the driver.
6). Line CB mounting bracket up, and mark holes for each mounting location. Drill out holes. This time with the CB mounting bracket installed, use the other two 5/16x1.5” bolts and nylock nuts to bolt the CB mounting bracket to the CB bar tubing. I usually face the hex head down to allow for better clearance of the radio body.
7). Test fit again. Center the L Brackets over the 1” hole closest to the B Pillar (rear of driver compartment). Mark the center of this using a Sharpie. (see picture in next step)
8). Use the step up bit to drill out a 1” diameter hole in the L Brackets. This is important if you use a Mopar Soft top as this will allow you to use the CB bar without interfering with the OEM Door surrounds- it should just slide under and the door surround will hold it in place.
9). Test fit again. Use the M8-1.25” bolts secured with a fender washer on top (if you’re not installing with a soft top), and a fender washer and nylock nut on the bottom. This should be your final test fit to make sure everything lines up and you’re satisfied with your results.
10). Disassemble the CB bar. Hit it with the wire brush to remove any dirt/ oxidation/ rough edges, and scuff the surface for paint.. I wiped mine down with mineral spirits and let it dry in the sun.
11). Once dry, apply a coat of spray paint. I used the Rustoleum Lacquer. It’s high gloss and looks great. My L Brackets were pre painted but I had to do some touch up where I removed some of the burs from the drill.
12). FINAL ASSEMBLY: bolt everything together (as listed in previous steps). Bolt into Jeep. If you have a soft top, the L Brackets should slide right under the nub and the door surrounds. If you’re using a hard top, just make sure to use the Fender washer on top as well.
13). Install your CB Radio and run your cables. Fasten to tubing with small zip ties, and trim excess zip tie lenght
14). Slice the foam pool noodle down the center to open it up. Measure and mark the center section where the CB Mounting bracket is.
15). Cut the foam noodle into 3 pieces based on your measurements from previous step.
16). With opening facing up, wrap foam around CB bar on left and right sections. Secure with zip ties, and cut excess length. Beware sharp edges.
17). With opening facing down, place center section over the top of the section with the CB mounting bracket. Secure with zip ties, and cut excess length.
There you have it! Overhead CB bar for the JL.
Notes and final thoughts:
-I added the foam for head protection. I’m 5’9” and sometimes if I lean forward it would come close to my head. As it is, the brim of my hat contacts the foam sometimes if i’m fidgeting in my seat when I first get in the Jeep. The CB can be kind of close to your head and could be a hazard for sudden lateral movement (when you’re getting in or if you get into an accident). I’m not entirely comfortable with the positioning between the driver and passenger and I may get new L-Brackets to move it farther forward, away from the lateral head movement zone this summer. If you’re taller than me, You may want to do the same.
-This took me a few months of weekends and days off to figure out, and lots of measuring/ remeasuring/ drilling/ testing. I bought a lot of hardware to get it right. In the end, mine isn’t very clean or pretty (because of that trial and error method, and time) but I could probably re-do it again and it would be much nicer. Overall, this probably cost me around $30 for all the materials. I had to buy a few tools but it was still cheaper than some of the pre-made online alternatives.
-I’ve had it installed since late August, and so far it has yet to rattle. The bar is strong enough for me to hoist myself up on it, but I wouldn’t use it in place of grab handles and I wouldn’t count on it adding any rigidity to the roll bar.
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Last edited:
