DIY Metalcloak 3.5" Game Changer Lift Install and Review

[rustyshakelford]

You're right about it being more of an art. And yeah, whether you drive on it a couple days before getting it aligned or go straight to the alignment shop really depends on how it drives once you finish the lift. Like most upgrades, if you're paying attention the Jeep will tell you what it needs.

I don't understand how setting the lengths to the factory settings 'garauntees' it will need adjusting? Seems to me that it could need adjusting either way you set them, and you wouldn't know for sure until you get it on the rack. But, I don't do alignments, so I'll have to defer to your experience there.

If you set it to stock and lift it, it’ll be out of spec guaranteed right? Example would be the front, the caster would be way to low. The rear isn’t as sensitive though. With adj arms the big thing on the rear is making sure the thrust angle is good. MC send what I think are the most accurate recommended lengths. RK is a little conservative. I tried theirs this go around and don’t like them. I’ll make the changes when I get it on the rack and have it close to my Jeep because I love the way it drives. Also, on these settings, a little can go a long ways. It’s amazing what .25” can do!

Brett

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[swampcat14]

If you set it to stock and lift it, it’ll be out of spec guaranteed right? Example would be the front, the caster would be way to low. The rear isn’t as sensitive though. With adj arms the big thing on the rear is making sure the thrust angle is good. MC send what I think are the most accurate recommended lengths. RK is a little conservative. I tried theirs this go around and don’t like them. I’ll make the changes when I get it on the rack and have it close to my Jeep because I love the way it drives. Also, on these settings, a little can go a long ways. It’s amazing what .25” can do!

Brett

Makes sense. Thanks for the explanation!

 

[D60]

For the upper control arms in the rear, the front nuts in the frame can be a pain.

FCA furnishes the nut with a "tab holder", but even on the driver side (the easy side), I couldn't get the nut square to the bolt using just the holder. This is the easy side 'cause there's a hole in the frame so once I put my finger through the hole and pushed the nut square, it finally started easily without cross threading.

However, the passenger side is obscured by the gas tank and so you're entirely reliant on the tab. I could see this going poorly for me, so I decided to tack the holder to the frame before removing the bolt. It actually worked beautifully.

Apologies for the ugly cold tacks, I was concerned with blowing thru the tab, and I wanted to be able to easily grind it off if it didn't work

 

[D60]

I don't think MC mentions it in their instructions but I'd reco having an 18mm plate wrench for the sway bar links. Of course alternatively you could just grab a cheap 18mm wrench (Cman RP, anyone?) and grind it down.

V8 Tools makes a nice set of plate wrenches, and I promise you you will NEVER regret INVESTING in a comprehensive set of plate wrenches

 

[D60]

Up front I was uninspired by the zip tie solution for the brake line bracket. I opted to drill as shown and tap M6x1.0 to re-use the stock hardware. You can see it is a tight fit so depending upon your shock body this may not work.

This is full droop here (axle pulls back), so it's theoretically as close as it'll ever get. These are cheap Skyjacker shocks

 

[D60]

For the upper brake line brackets in the front - at least with the 2.5" nominal kit - I was able to just drill a hole near the top of the bracket and re-anchor.

I'm sure many others have done this. Bonus points if you drilled a new hole in the frame for the locator hook (I just cut mine off)

 

[D60]

Finally, I think it sorta sucks that MC doesn't provide printed instructions with the kit. I get it, the world is going this way and for installers and shops it actually saves resources that would just be thrown away. I don't have a color printer but one could argue that's my problem.

Flame away, and whilst doing so know that you're wasting your time 'cause I couldn't care less about your opinions.

ANYWAY , the real point here is that at the time of posting (see date of post) there are still some typos in the MC instructions....it seems to hinge on if you select a version with shocks or no shocks.

Specifically, I recall incorrect fastener sizes stated on the front control arms where "upper" and "lower" were swapped, and one version says to put the jam nuts for the rear upper control arms "at the back" while one says to put them either at the front or at the frame...I don't recall exact verbiage there.

I know, because this is the internet, at least one person will say I'm lying and ask for proof.....it's behind me now and I don't care to call up each version and play proofreader.

I can only assure you I'm not stupid, I'm not crazy, and I'm not making it up.

I'm merely posting to maybe help others as you progress thru the instructions - if something seems flat-out wrong or flip-flopped in relation to upper or lower, front or back, it very well could be. Observations in the field overrule words on paper here

 

[OffroadTreks]

Finally, I think it sorta sucks that MC doesn't provide printed instructions with the kit. I get it, the world is going this way and for installers and shops it actually saves resources that would just be thrown away. I don't have a color printer but one could argue that's my problem.

Flame away, and whilst doing so know that you're wasting your time 'cause I couldn't care less about your opinions.

ANYWAY , the real point here is that at the time of posting (see date of post) there are still some typos in the MC instructions....it seems to hinge on if you select a version with shocks or no shocks.

Specifically, I recall incorrect fastener sizes stated on the front control arms where "upper" and "lower" were swapped, and one version says to put the jam nuts for the rear upper control arms "at the back" while one says to put them either at the front or at the frame...I don't recall exact verbiage there.

I know, because this is the internet, at least one person will say I'm lying and ask for proof.....it's behind me now and I don't care to call up each version and play proofreader.

I can only assure you I'm not stupid, I'm not crazy, and I'm not making it up.

I'm merely posting to maybe help others as you progress thru the instructions - if something seems flat-out wrong or flip-flopped in relation to upper or lower, front or back, it very well could be. Observations in the field overrule words on paper here

Personally, I just view the PDF on my laptop or phone. Don't see the problem there.

So I installed my lift myself, then later got their front disconnect skid and stabilizer relocation kit, and then last weekend, helped my friend install a MC Game Changer on his JK. And here's what I noticed.

The kits are so close between the JL and JK that I think they copied most of the instructions and then updated sections. While forgetting others. I noticed the same thing about incorrect bolt sizes. But then it turned out those sizes were on the JK. Also, the disconnect skid directions list three bolts, but there are in fact four. And also glosses over the fact that in order to drill a hole for the relocation bracket you will need to remove the drag link. It's in the way, plain and simple. You aren't getting a drill bit in there. No one is.

Actually, I ran into a similar issue with my ACE stuff. It's clear they just updated their product from the JK to the JL, but the install directions I seriously wonder if they actually bothered checking the JL before sending it into the wild.

And with an AEV product and their directions, I noticed that they are really actually written for installers and shops and make a bunch of assumptions. I've been wrenching long enough that I just scan the directions and figure out the assumptions on my own.

But it is kind of annoying to grab a 19mm wrench, crawl under the Jeep and then realize that it's a 22mm and the directions are wrong.

Honestly, I feel like companies should really do their due diligence with instructions. Sometimes it feels like an afterthought with some of the smaller fab shops and whatnot. Worse when the pictures included are terrible and the wording is poor.

I will say, step by step install videos are perhaps even better than written directions. You can play, stop pauyse, rewind and watch someone perform the steps.

 

[D60]

^^ I agree, a company might put out a great product but poor written instructions (or videos for that matter) always make me feel like they don't care. Instructions are really the final touch to push that product to the finish line, like trim work on a house. And, frankly, it's only professional , something anyone in business should strive for.

My Jeep was on the lift so there was no rolling under it (just walking, with a service cart), but the incorrect sizes just caused me to pause and make sure it was the instructions that were confused, not me.

I'm not bashing MC but it would be more professional if all that were cleared up

 

[Johnny2018]

Finally got the lift installed today by a well known local shop. Gonna post some pictures to see if anyone notices something installed wrong. Still have stock tires and wheels, tomorrow those will go on.

 

[Johnny2018]

MC 3.5

 

[Johnny2018]

Rear bump stops are staggered out, normal?

 

[rustyshakelford]

Rear bump stops are staggered out, normal?

Looks like the rear track bar is upside down. The MC rear bump stops can be confusing. You don’t have to use their holes. I make them straight and look nice. Easy to drill thru the rubber where you want them. I’m assuming this shop doesn’t do a bunch of MC? Here’s my rear track bar for reference.

Brett

 

[jlewissystem]

Interesting that you didnt have to grind out that front passenger side track bar mount hole. I had to. Maybe they changed something..?

 

[Johnny2018]

He said they had done 3 but on jk not jl. When I get a chance I’ll have them flip it around. They did offer lifetime warranty and told me to take it back for retorque at 500 miles then again at 1000 miles.

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