DIY Metalcloak 3.5" Game Changer Lift Install and Review

[Johnny2018]

Finally ordered MC lift!!

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[swampcat14]

Awesome!

 

[Johnny2018]

As far as offset when ordering wheels, which will Wk better? -12 or 1 offset?

 

[swampcat14]

As far as offset when ordering wheels, which will Wk better? -12 or 1 offset?

Well, the negative offset gives you less backspacing, but since it put more of the wheel outside of the hub, you're less likely to encounter clearance issues with the tie rod, drag link, frame, etc. The positive offset gives you more backspacing, but you're more likely to have clearance issues since more of the wheel is inside of the hub.

So, go with the negative offset to minimize the chances of having clearance issues.

 

[Johnny2018]

Ok thks,
Undecided on wheels still. Decided to go with a 71.5 bore after all. Undecided between the following.

 

[BpBpImaJp]

For the install of the 3.5" Game changer what jack stand height would I need to get full droop for uncompressed coils?

 

[swampcat14]

Umm, I'll measure my jack stands when I get home, but they aren't super tall. I put them under the frame, just to the rear of the front tires, and just to the front of the rear tires. Then pull the tires off and lower the axles down until they rest on the ground (might put a towel or something down to keep from damaging your brake disks). The only spring I couldn't get out with that method was the front drivers side, so I just used my jack to temporarily lift that corner up enough to pull the springs, then lowered it back down onto the jack stand until I needed to put the new springs back in. The new springs are taller, obviously, but I was able to get them in with the same method.

 

[D60]

Did you guys use the MC suggested 20-1/8" length for the REAR LOWER control arms?

I ask only 'cause they list the stock as 20" but it's actually 19.75" on my JLUR

 

[swampcat14]

Did you guys use the MC suggested 20-1/8" length for the REAR LOWER control arms?

I ask only 'cause they list the stock as 20" but it's actually 19.75" on my JLUR

No, for initial install you should measure and match your stock lengths as closely as possible. That'll be good enough to get ya from your garage to the alignment shop.

 

[D60]

No, for initial install you should measure and match your stock lengths as closely as possible. That'll be good enough to get ya from your garage to the alignment shop.

I'm asking about rear. Is the typical "alignment shop" setting pinion angle?....'cause that's all this is about

 

[rustyshakelford]

I'm asking about rear. Is the typical "alignment shop" setting pinion angle?....'cause that's all this is about

I set the rear to their recommended lengths. We have an alignment machine and everything is great. I shoot for 6-6.5° caster in the front though.

Brett

 

[D60]

I set the rear to their recommended lengths. We have an alignment machine and everything is great. I shoot for 6-6.5° caster in the front though.

Brett

Thank you! I set it 20-1/8" OC per their instructions even though they were 1/4" wrong on stock.

 

[swampcat14]

I'm asking about rear. Is the typical "alignment shop" setting pinion angle?....'cause that's all this is about

Well, you shouldn't take your Jeep to a 'typical' alignment shop, because they'll just try to set it to factory numbers (which I don't think reference anything about pinion angle because the factory arms aren't adjustable). A good 4WD alignment shop will know you just put a lift on with adjustable arms, and would check pinion angle and adjust if needed.

As for the initial setting, personally I would match the factory length, because any set of recommended or standard setting won't be specific to your Jeep or take into account minor manufacturing differences between vehicles. Admittedly, in the grand scheme of things it probably doesn't matter, and MC is a quality shop so they're recommended numbers are also probably good enough. Regardless which way you go, your first destination after finishing install should be the alignment shop.

 

[rustyshakelford]

Well, you shouldn't take your Jeep to a 'typical' alignment shop, because they'll just try to set it to factory numbers (which I don't think reference anything about pinion angle because the factory arms aren't adjustable). A good 4WD alignment shop will know you just put a lift on with adjustable arms, and would check pinion angle and adjust if needed.

As for the initial setting, personally I would match the factory length, because any set of recommended or standard setting won't be specific to your Jeep or take into account minor manufacturing differences between vehicles. Admittedly, in the grand scheme of things it probably doesn't matter, and MC is a quality shop so they're recommended numbers are also probably good enough. Regardless which way you go, your first destination after finishing install should be the alignment shop.

As someone that does align these, I’d personally rather the customer follow the instructions and that creates less work for me in the end which saves money. If the rear is set to what it supposed to, when it’s on the rack and I see that it’s good, I’ll check the torque and leave it alone. Saves money for the customer by me not having to spend time messing with it. I’m not saying this to sound lazy but with your way, it’s a guarantee that it will need to be adjusted.

Also, I don’t think these are an exact science. More like an art. There’s some wiggle room on getting them set up. It’s not a hard and fast 6° or it’ll drive like crap. Some could be 5.9 others 6.1°. It’s just starting somewhere and working your way to where it drives like it’s supposed to. I installed my wife’s lift this weekend. Still no alignment. Drives great but just a little to light in the wheel for her. I’ll put it on the rack tomorrow and make some changes to get it where I feel JLs perform optimally

Brett

 

[swampcat14]

As someone that does align these, I’d personally rather the customer follow the instructions and that creates less work for me in the end which saves money. If the rear is set to what it supposed to, when it’s on the rack and I see that it’s good, I’ll check the torque and leave it alone. Saves money for the customer by me not having to spend time messing with it. I’m not saying this to sound lazy but with your way, it’s a guarantee that it will need to be adjusted.

Also, I don’t think these are an exact science. More like an art. There’s some wiggle room on getting them set up. It’s not a hard and fast 6° or it’ll drive like crap. Some could be 5.9 others 6.1°. It’s just starting somewhere and working your way to where it drives like it’s supposed to. I installed my wife’s lift this weekend. Still no alignment. Drives great but just a little to light in the wheel for her. I’ll put it on the rack tomorrow and make some changes to get it where I feel JLs perform optimally

Brett

You're right about it being more of an art. And yeah, whether you drive on it a couple days before getting it aligned or go straight to the alignment shop really depends on how it drives once you finish the lift. Like most upgrades, if you're paying attention the Jeep will tell you what it needs.

I don't understand how setting the lengths to the factory settings 'garauntees' it will need adjusting? Seems to me that it could need adjusting either way you set them, and you wouldn't know for sure until you get it on the rack. But, I don't do alignments, so I'll have to defer to your experience there.

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