GATORB8
Well-Known Member
https://www.fleximounts.com/garage-...44b-4-x-4-overhead-garage-storage-lift-black/Can you tell me from where did you buy it ? Racor is discontinued. So I guess flexmount will do the trick
Also on Amazon
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https://www.fleximounts.com/garage-...44b-4-x-4-overhead-garage-storage-lift-black/Can you tell me from where did you buy it ? Racor is discontinued. So I guess flexmount will do the trick
Just need another penny to get $30 off, I got it on a 15% off on their site during the fathers day sale.I'm keeping my eye on the same Fleximount unit. Amazon is still at 199.
I know. I just realized what you meant. Buy a candy from them?Just need another penny to get $30 off, I got it on a 15% off on their site during the fathers day sale.
Building powered hoist will come about the same and I feel it is more secure from reading reviews about Fleximount.I know. I just realized what you meant. Buy a candy from them?
The lowest item I saw as some brackets which I have no use for.
I was looking at the powered hoist too. I am trying to stay away from single point mount where all the weight of the hardtop are tied to a single point and them lifted up, which is also a single point location on the ceiling. I think this is what you are mentioning right?Building powered hoist will come about the same and I feel it is more secure from reading reviews about Fleximount.
I love this idea.Hi All, I'm exploring a slightly offbeat idea and wanted your thoughts on whether this would work or only be a source of entertainment to this community and my wife and daughter.
It's going to use a motorcycle lift to lift up the hardtop and a table to hold/store the hardtop, mainly because I intend to get the motorcycle lift anyway and I cannot drill into the garage roof for a hoist.
This is the motorcycle lift: https://www.amazon.com/XtremepowerUS-Motorcycle-Scissor-Hydraulic-Operated/dp/B00CKY3J3Y
I would place the lift on a table that's level with the bottom of the trunk, roll it in (rear tailgate and windshield open), lock the wheels, lift the hardtop, unlock the wheels and carefully roll it out onto the table.
Thoughts on things that could go wrong? would this work?
@LittleDog thanks for the ideas! These make a lot of sense - you're absolutely right about the challenges with rolling it back out with the hardtop on it.I love this idea.
Here are some thoughts:
First, cut a large piece of plywood or some such, that fits the cargo area, for the motorcycle jack (henceforth: trolly) to roll on. Four swivel casters on carpet, with a top-heavy 180lb. load sounds like a disaster. No need to be contoured and fancy, just large enough that it doesn't slide around too much. Maybe put some no-skid stuff on the bottom.
Second: attach four strips of trim, or 1x3s, or angle steel, to create two channels for the casters to roll in, without being able to turn or jump out.
Third: add some stops to prevent spectacular failure. You could additionally add a pulley from the inside of the jeep somewhere for you or someone else to hold as you ease the roof out.
Bonus would be to have the trolley platform extend out directly over the table, so you can properly balance it.
Fourth: Add me to the patent.
I don't think a standard 2x6-or-8 foot folding table would be able to balance the top, if that's what you were thinking. Many people here are using a small scaffold from Harbor Freight or similar, but they are also getting them moved without an awesome dual-use pneumatic-lifter-trolly. Mostly with shoving, as I understand.
Start a new thread on this if you're more than 70% serious.
I’m actually thinking of getting a couple more for overhead storage. I have 24” on center joists so it’s perfect with no additional support, and it works great, build is better than I expected for $200I know. I just realized what you meant. Buy a candy from them?
The lowest item I saw as some brackets which I have no use for.
No my friend you are not wrong and we have the same thought process. Not sure if you built yours already or still waiting.I was looking at the powered hoist too. I am trying to stay away from a single point mount where all the hardtop weight is tied to a single point and lifted, which is also a single point location on the ceiling. I think this is what you are mentioning, right?
I like the part where there are 4 diff points of mount on the ceiling, Kinda gives me a feeling that the weights are distributed 4 ways. All 4 points need to fail. I guess compared to single point failure.
Even with the four points. I am still planning to add 2 static straps which will be connected to different location on the ceiling, just to make sure it's safe.
I might be overthinking here and might be all wrong. Yikes.
Just my thoughts, without any proof. I might be wrong.
Yes, that's why the 'bonus' would be a trolley platform that extends out onto the 'table'. What 'table' are you planning on?the 'trolley' can handle the weight of the top easily however, with the trolley in the boot, the overhang of the hardtop beyond the 'point of support' required a support structure (essentially a couple of 2x4's) to avoid tipping it.
Consider using steel C channel bars to mount to your ceiling and connect to several spots along the bar, that way no one lag bolt is mission critical. Then mount your hoist to the c channel bar. I have an AuxxLift hoist (awesome) and that’s how the installer did it.I'm looking to build a hardtop hoist and trying to come up with some ideas. Concerns:
1. I could bolt into the rafters, but that could jeopardize the structure of the trusses if I don't get the exact centers, even when using 2x4s cross-ways to distribute the weight - I could mess up several cross beams that way too. I've heard of a few disasters online (not necessarily Jeep hard top specific). It would be a major project getting up into the attic (I have a very low attic, crawl only).
2. I've seen the stand on wheels that they make, but it looks kind of wobbly.
3. I watched several YouTube videos of DIY hardtop hoists and the kind you buy and it looks like the straps, hooks, etc. are creasing the edges and in some cases chipping or marking up the paint. That can't be good.
Brainstorming ideas:
A. How about a lesser expensive engine lift (or used), modify it with a flat tray on the top, attach several thick mover's blankets or thick padding of some kind, then jack it up so only the mover's blankets / padding touches the underside? That way it won't crush the edges. Just need to make the flat tray wide enough so it isn't tipsy.
B. Four pulleys, but instead of straps crushing the edges, put two metal bars front to back but with a tray in he middle with thick padding so it only touches the underside?
C. Other ideas? I've been searching Google, YouTube, Google Images, etc. but there has to be a better mouse trap.
Thanks.
I think my favorite "nugget" out of this design is the splitting of the single cable into a double. This allows a standard winch set up, but you gain the added stability of separate front and rear lift lines. This should significantly reduce any twisting in the wind of the hung top, as well as allow for customizing the 2 cable lengths to perfect the fore/aft balancing act. Good On Ya!I used Topsy hooks, a piece of galvanized pipe, and a lifting strap for the front. It keeps you from having to worry about the rear window and it's been very stable for holding the top, with little motion from it while it is suspended.
I disagree, but it is almost 4 years from your original post. I just bought a Mopar Hard Top 82215143. It is an OEM hardtop and it is only primered, not painted. That why you do not have to paint over the original black paint on most hard tops. I am going to paint it red for my Sahara.For the record, All hardtops are painted. Your hardtop is painted black.
Read here: https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/forum/threads/touch-up-wrangler-hardtop.4308/
With the price of wood today, this is probably a little more expensive now...I didn't like the idea of using straps to lift my top, I didn't wanna risk lifting it unevenly and twisting the top too much that it damaged the top or shattered glass, and I didn't want it stored in a way that could cause it to permanently deform. Plus, I wanted somewhere out of the way to store the freedom panels. I built my own, that also allows me to store the soft top when I'm not using it, and other Jeep related parts that I am not using.
Parts List:
(4) 6' long 2x4
(1) 5'-9" long 2x4
(2) 3'-9"long 2x4
(1) 4' x 6' plywood
(8) 4" lag bolts
(4) hook screws
(5) eye screws
(4) carbabiners
(2) pulley wheels
(1) rope hoist
(1) spare rope
(1) rope cleat
some washers and wood screws for the platform
The short story is this, sorry if it is confusing (if you want more details, I will be glad to provide more):
Use the (2) of the 6' pieces of wood to bolt to at least (3) rafters each and about 4'-2" apart on the ceiling, to hold the platform.
Screw in (2) hook screws, (1) on each end (about 2" from the end) , into each piece of wood on the ceiling. On the piece closest to the wall that will hold the rope hoist, bolt the 2 pulley wheels at the center, with a cover plate.
Screw (1) eye screw into the wall (into a stud), about 2 inches from the ceiling, where the rope hoist will connect to, and the cleat down below it where you'd like to tie off (also into the stud).
Run (4) pieces of rope from the hoist through the pulley wheels, and send (1) to each hook screw, and down to the ground with enough to spare.
Use the remaining wood to frame out the platform, with the 5'-9" piece down the center.
Screw (1) eye screw into the side face of the platform, at each end of the 6' pieces of wood, again, about 2" from each end.
Use stands to get the platform to sit level where you would like it, hook your carabiners to the eye screws on the platform and tie your ropes to the carabiners so that the platform will sit level. It is now ready to hoist!
Been using this for 3yrs, no issues!