DIY Gear Swap - Step by Step Video's - Rubicon 5.13

[Vanillacon]

I really enjoyed the videos. This took what was essentially a mystery for me to a complete understanding of the process. I don't know if I would try it on my own (mainly due to lack of specialized tools), but with the video and audio, I feel like I understand it all now. Thanks!

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[93civEJ1]

Awesome Post. This is the kind of stuff I appreciate.
Few things. Any stepds or info on removing the drive shaft? How did you hammer the seals in?

I dont have a JL, but I have a non locker'd JT with DANA44's and 4.10's. I assume this procedure would pretty much be the same way.

What are the difference if someone did not have lockers? What if someone was adding lockers / air lockers?

 

[93civEJ1]

Did i miss videos on checking the pinion depth and the paint on the ring??

 

[chevymitchell]

Did i miss videos on checking the pinion depth and the paint on the ring??

You didn't miss it. For some reason, I didn't grab a video of the actual paint and pattern. I have one in there for setting your initial pinion depth. I also had to make a correction on the front pinion and didn't film it. Both of these diffs set up very well, so I didn't need to make very many adjustments at all. I should've shown the patterns, but it's one of those things that just got worked in and didn't get filmed. If you have any questions about the pattern or correcting one, just holler. I can go through it.

 

[93civEJ1]

You didn't miss it. For some reason, I didn't grab a video of the actual paint and pattern. I have one in there for setting your initial pinion depth. I also had to make a correction on the front pinion and didn't film it. Both of these diffs set up very well, so I didn't need to make very many adjustments at all. I should've shown the patterns, but it's one of those things that just got worked in and didn't get filmed. If you have any questions about the pattern or correcting one, just holler. I can go through it.

Im not gonna tackle this any time soon, but the whole pattern thing is a mystery to me. I enjoy just gaining knowledge for when the time comes.

So when you had to correct the front, did you have to unbolt the pinion and smack it back out and put shims behind it again?

 

[chevymitchell]

Im not gonna tackle this any time soon, but the whole pattern thing is a mystery to me. I enjoy just gaining knowledge for when the time comes.

So when you had to correct the front, did you have to unbolt the pinion and smack it back out and put shims behind it again?

Yeah. When you go to remove the pinion and you're going to reuse it, don't just hit it like I did in the video for the rear. You will destroy the pinion this way. Remove it by putting a punch in the center of it and then hit the punch. It'll come right out. Tap the race out, adjust your shim stack, then put the race back in. It's really not difficult at all. The pattern is pretty easy and forgiving, as well.

 

[93civEJ1]

Thanks for the info. Seems like a pretty straight forward thing I could do if I took my time. Ive built whole engines, so I dont know why i couldnt tackle something like this.

 

[DavidArmen]

Great video series. Good on you for sharing it with the community! Many thanks.

 

[tonygiotta]

Great videos! Something I've always felt was better left to the pros, but after watching your videos, I think I have just the right amount of OCD to tackle this project. Guess it depends on how cost prohibitive it would be to buy the few additional tools I'd need to add to the collection.

So I think the part I'm having the hardest time wrapping my head around is shimming the carrier. I know you said to just shim it initially until there's no movement. Can you really feel if you have .003 of movement? When the carrier is "full", could you really not shove another .003 in there? Seems like such a fine line that it would be hard to tell for sure (especially when dealing with such a heavy carrier assembly) that you had exactly the right amount of shim in there.

Also, my previous experience is with XJ era axles. I could swear I remember guys turning their old bearings into set-up bearings to facilitate the carrier shimming process, eliminating the need to press bearings on and off repeatedly during setup. Didn't the shims install between the bearings and the carrier on those older axles? If so, man, what a time/hassle saver having them outboard of the bearings on the JL!

 

[chevymitchell]

Great videos! Something I've always felt was better left to the pros, but after watching your videos, I think I have just the right amount of OCD to tackle this project. Guess it depends on how cost prohibitive it would be to buy the few additional tools I'd need to add to the collection.

So I think the part I'm having the hardest time wrapping my head around is shimming the carrier. I know you said to just shim it initially until there's no movement. Can you really feel if you have .003 of movement? When the carrier is "full", could you really not shove another .003 in there? Seems like such a fine line that it would be hard to tell for sure (especially when dealing with such a heavy carrier assembly) that you had exactly the right amount of shim in there.

Also, my previous experience is with XJ era axles. I could swear I remember guys turning their old bearings into set-up bearings to facilitate the carrier shimming process, eliminating the need to press bearings on and off repeatedly during setup. Didn't the shims install between the bearings and the carrier on those older axles? If so, man, what a time/hassle saver having them outboard of the bearings on the JL!

I've had a ton of set-up bearings throughout the years. I haven't made a set for these new axles yet, but I will, for sure! They are very helpful.

If there's .003" of play there, you can feel it. Once the carrier is shimmed, you can use a pry bar to push the carrier towards the pinion if you want. This will allow you to see any movement laterally. Also, as you're rolling the carrier into place with the shims, you can easily tell by feel how tight it is. This won't be an issue for you.

 

[word302]

I've had a ton of set-up bearings throughout the years. I haven't made a set for these new axles yet, but I will, for sure! They are very helpful.

If there's .003" of play there, you can feel it. Once the carrier is shimmed, you can use a pry bar to push the carrier towards the pinion if you want. This will allow you to see any movement laterally. Also, as you're rolling the carrier into place with the shims, you can easily tell by feel how tight it is. This won't be an issue for you.

Am I missing something? Don't all the shims on these go outside the bearings negating the need for setup bearings?

 

[chevymitchell]

Am I missing something? Don't all the shims on these go outside the bearings negating the need for setup bearings?

The shims go under the pinion head bearing race on these, not under the bearing itself.

The need for set-up bearings is still there just so you don't have to hammer out the race each time.

Yeah, it's much easier than it used to be, but you still run the risk of needing more than one pinion nut and crush sleeve.

 

[BuffaloBill]

I too appreciate the videos you made for us. Thank you very much! I plan on tackling mine this late Winter or early Spring.

About the possible need to tweek the pinion depth, to correct the mesh pattern and a need for extra crush sleeves:

Does it work to initially set the torque to turn the pinion w/o installing the crush sleeve. Then check the mesh pattern and adjust pinion depth if required, etc. Then when the pattern looks good, disassemble and install the crush sleeve? Or is it too difficult to achieve an acceptable pinion bearing preload w/o the sleeve in there?

I don’t have bearing race drivers, but do have a lathe. Does anyone happen to have dimensions of the pinion bearing races such that I could make drivers ahead of time?

Thanks.

 

[chevymitchell]

I too appreciate the videos you made for us. Thank you very much! I plan on tackling mine this late Winter or early Spring.

About the possible need to tweek the pinion depth, to correct the mesh pattern and a need for extra crush sleeves:

Does it work to initially set the torque to turn the pinion w/o installing the crush sleeve. Then check the mesh pattern and adjust pinion depth if required, etc. Then when the pattern looks good, disassemble and install the crush sleeve? Or is it too difficult to achieve an acceptable pinion bearing preload w/o the sleeve in there?

I don’t have bearing race drivers, but do have a lathe. Does anyone happen to have dimensions of the pinion bearing races such that I could make drivers ahead of time?

Thanks.

You're very welcome.

Q1 - You definitely want to perform all of the measurements as if the axle assembly was being final assembled. (Everything should be installed). With that said, you could make a set of setup bearings. You would cut about .0015" off of the outside of the Pinion Head Bearing Race so it will slide in and out of the housing to adjust shims. You would also need to cut about .0015" from the inside of the tail bearing itself. This will allow you to slide the pinion in and out for adjustments.

However - if you're only doing your gears, this would be a lot of extra work for almost no gain.

Q2 - As much as I love making my own stuff, the bearing race tools are pretty affordable. Here's a link to the set I've used for a very long time: https://www.amazon.com/OTC-4507-Bearing-Race-Driver/dp/B000O824Y8?ref_=nav_ya_signin&

The measurements are in the description. You would have to match the taper for the inside of the race. That would be pretty simple with the lathe.

 

[av8or]

Dude! Thanks so much! This series of videos has put me over the top and I’m gonna do my own gears this spring. I don’t know what it is about diffs, but they are intimidating. I’ve rebuilt engines and torn apart transfer cases, but never gears in diff, and have always been afraid I would screw it up. Seeing you do it without a lift and the same way I will have to gives me the confidence to just do it. Like all things mechanical it’s about taking your time, not guessing knowing, and if you don’t know ask.


I hope you don’t go anywhere as I’m sure I’ll have a ton of questions when I get started.

Thanks again for one of the most informative post I’ve seen here. RC

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