chevymitchell
Well-Known Member
- First Name
- Shawn
- Joined
- Feb 18, 2018
- Threads
- 94
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- 4,269
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- Location
- K-ville, NC
- Vehicle(s)
- 2019 JLUR (Pain Train), 2022 2500 AT4
- Occupation
- Avi Engineer
- Thread starter
- #76
Reviving an old but amazing thread for some question for those more experienced than myself, which is anyone who has done this since regearing will be virgin territory for me.
I've committed to regearing to 4.88s (JLUR auto, 37s), got a killer deal on Dana Spicer gears + master install kits from NR4x4. After reading ChevyMitchell's write up and watching the Dana video on regearing a JL, seems very doable but I have some questions if anyone wants to help out. Sorry if they are silly questions.
1. How important is a pinion seal installer? Dana makes a $300 kit (SPI401) with several sizes of installers, but I've seen other people just carefully tap them in or use something round that is the correct diameter to seat the seal without damaging it.
You can get away with not using a formal seal installation tool. They do make installing super smooth, but it is not needed.
2. Can I use the cheaper of these 2 styles of bearing puller? ChevyMitchell has the more expensive clamshell style (top picture), but if I can get away with the cheaper one (bottom picture) I'll save a few benjamins.
The bearing pullers on the bottom will not work because the smaller carrier bearing sits too close to the carrier itself. You will end up pulling just the cage off and then cutting the rest of the bearing off. The clamshell style will do this, as well, if you do not have it set up right. I ended up cutting bearings off while trying either tool.
If you'd rather just cut the bearings off, you won't need either one of these tools, but that's your call. Cutting the bearings off is super easy, but also nerve racking if it's your first time.
3. How do I know if these race driver kits will have the size I need? (most seem to have the same range of sizes, so I am assuming these kits cover most applications.)
I used a generic kit. It worked well.
4. Any reason this cheap 6-ton HF press wouldn't work...? It's says the capacity is 10.5". It's only $80 from HF and they usually have a 20-25% off coupon. Option two is I use the bottle jack out of my Jeep and weld up a small metal frame to press against, but if I can buy this for $60 and it works well, that's hard to beat.
This should work great. You don't really need a lot of pressure, so any small shop press or desktop press would work. I wouldn't recommend an arbor press, but one big enough might work, as well. I've always used my small shop press.
5. Some people apply a thin layer of RTV silicone to the inside of the pinion seal before tapping it into place, seems like it would add some extra piece of mind. Thoughts or issues with this?
The new pinion seal comes with a layer sealant on it already. You can add more, but it's not necessary at all.
6. Is there any benefit to removing the axles to regear? Seems like extra work, but it it makes the process easier (or getting to tight spaces easier) it might be worth it.
No. Leave them in. Other than the obvious (putting the axle at standing working height), there's no reason to remove the axle.
7. In order to use another set of bearings while setting up the rear end, can I just use the old bearings and sand the inside to make them slip over the shafts, or should I buy an extra set of new bearings so they are identical to the ones I am installing?
This won't be necessary. The shims for the carrier go on the outside of the race and the shims for the pinion are accessible removing the head bearing on these axles. Press on your new bearings and go. If you bought DANA gears and kits, they'll likely come with a Zero Etch and you can use the same shim stack as the original gear set. Mine lined up perfectly with the original stack up.
8. Will a non-digital torque wrench be able to properly measure torque to turn when setting bearing preload? It seems like I could set it to a value and as long as it doesn't click, it'll at least be below that value so i don't over-torque when collapsing the crush sleeve.
Use a beam style torque wrench or a digital. Don't use a spring style torque wrench to set preload. You need one that will provide you with a real-time, live number.
Sorry for the list of questions, trying to plan ahead and have everything ready to rock and roll. Also a special thanks to everyone who has already contributed to this thread, extremely helpful.
No need to be sorry, man. That's what we're all here for... well, most of us, anyway.
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